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Posted

 Last Sunday, my airplane decided that it wanted it’s magneto and ignition switch to fail. I’m doing the work with my mechanic, who is 66 and 300 pounds, so we pulled the seats to more easily get under the panel. While messing around with the seats, I noticed that a small section in the baggage compartment still had the old pink insulation. I figured now is as good a time as any to inspect the rest of the airplane for any remainder pink insulation. We pulled all of the carpet, and panels, and headliner. We found that the only pink insulation was in the baggage compartment passenger side wall, as well as everything above the headliner. The rest of it had already been changed out with the new stuff. I thought this was kind of weird but glad that at least most of it was done. I checked the frame over really well, and seems to be clear of any corrosion. I pulled all the pink stuff and I’m going to order new today. I just talked to Air we found that the only pink insulation was in the baggage compartment passenger side wall, as well as everything above the headliner. The rest of it had already been changed out with the new stuff. I thought this was kind of weird but glad that at least most of it was done. I checked the frame over really well, and seems to be clear of any corrosion. I pulled all the pink stuff and I’m going to order new today. I just talked to Airtex -  and I’m going to order a new headliner and Carpet Panels. I’ve got a friend of mine that does upholstery work, does amazing work, so I’m going to let him do my seats. Yes, I am going to send a swatch off to have it fire tested. I took pictures and will post them here, not as much to show off my handiwork, but so that others will have a place to go when they are scared shit less like I am of putting their airplane back together again LOL. Well I took lots of pictures, I just don’t see how the airplane  Will ever go back like it was. Just kidding, kind of. Any tips or suggestions for the  headliner, or the rest of it for that matter, would be greatly appreciated. EF643AA6-CC68-4C13-95FD-3A9E1B44FEA8.thumb.jpeg.33dded45467f00910075c9cde95147dd.jpeg

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  • Like 3
Posted

because I was inverted.   Get some bicycle spokes and sharpen them on a bench grinder.  Used to find holes through carpet and plastic.   I still have some stainless antenna ends that we cut off to tune the antennas.   Sharpen them up and they can be used as punches too.

Posted

Thanks for posting all the pics- It’s going to look great when you’re done. Is your roof vent working right now? I had to fix mine and then just did my headliner as well. I chose wool, but would choose vinyl if I had to do it over again....it’s too easy to end up with glue mistakes that can’t be fixed with wool.

might wanna take a look at your upper vent scat hoses- mine were rotten and rusted inside

 

  • Like 1
Posted

The pink stuff was not required to be pulled with SB-208. Mine has it as well. I think it was required to be pulled in the areas where water could seep down below the window seals and onto the fiberglass mats.

 

4bb7a60143a5080bbf1b8e04b415eec7.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Yetti said:

because I was inverted.   Get some bicycle spokes and sharpen them on a bench grinder.  Used to find holes through carpet and plastic.   I still have some stainless antenna ends that we cut off to tune the antennas.   Sharpen them up and they can be used as punches too.

Everyone needs a set of these

 

Husky Precision Pick and Probe Set (4-Piece)

  • Like 4
Posted
3 hours ago, Marauder said:

The pink stuff was not required to be pulled with SB-208. Mine has it as well. I think it was required to be pulled in the areas where water could seep down below the window seals and onto the fiberglass mats.

 

4bb7a60143a5080bbf1b8e04b415eec7.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

Right - however, most of it had already been pulled, I’m in there anyway, may as well pull it and update it. That’s my thinking anyway. 

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, Yetti said:

Redo all your antenna cables if you have not.    run some extra coax for GPS antennas if you have not already

Coax looks pretty clean - already have my GPS Installed with cable. Definitely would be a good time to do it though lol

Posted
The following is based on my experience only.
 
Headliner installation !  It was frightening at first [of course, the unknown can be...lol ].
 
I did watch some YouTube videos of automobile cloth style headliner installations, which was very helpful.
 
Patience and cleanliness is paramount with new headliner installation.
 
My upholstery person used my old headliner as template to create my new headliner.
Most important is making sure the support rods are re-installed in the exact locations as removed.
Of course, your new liner should have the rod sleeves sewn in the same locations as the old liner rod sleeves.
 
 
My most difficult installation issue was the headliner finishing around the upper areas of the baggage and entrance door frames, in conjunction with the old aluminum edging moldings/snap-in fasteners.
Gluing the material to those moldings, then snapping all in with fasteners was a huge challenge ! [ I know I'll do better next time.......B)]
 
My only advice is, steady as she goes with great finesse and patience.............keep your fingers and hands clean and glue free............if you can !  LOL !
 
I'll bet you'll be very pleased with the end results.  More photos please !

Headliner.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted
30 minutes ago, MooneyMitch said:
The following is based on my experience only.
 
Headliner installation !  It was frightening at first [of course, the unknown can be...lol ].
 
I did watch some YouTube videos of automobile cloth style headliner installations, which was very helpful.
 
Patience and cleanliness is paramount with new headliner installation.
 
My upholstery person used my old headliner as template to create my new headliner.
Most important is making sure the support rods are re-installed in the exact locations as removed.
Of course, your new liner should have the rod sleeves sewn in the same locations as the old liner rod sleeves.
 
 
My most difficult installation issue was the headliner finishing around the upper areas of the baggage and entrance door frames, in conjunction with the old aluminum edging moldings/snap-in fasteners.
Gluing the material to those moldings, then snapping all in with fasteners was a huge challenge ! [ I know I'll do better next time.......B)]
 
My only advice is, steady as she goes with great finesse and patience.............keep your fingers and hands clean and glue free............if you can !  LOL !
 
I'll bet you'll be very pleased with the end results.  More photos please !

Headliner.jpg

Yes, mark the headliner rods.... I have seen some clever trim pieces that people have created to avoid having to install the headliner at the doors using the method that the factory used... I did get a couple wrinkles near the cabin door, as I was intent upon getting that liner in the same way that the factory did... I’m really surprised that they didn’t just create a trim piece to cover that area, because I think it would have eased installation a great deal. I guess they learned something when they decided to move away from fabric headliners!

  • Like 1
Posted

In addition, with headliner removed, it's a perfect time to inspect/replace as needed, old cabin vent tubing!  You've probably already discovered that.   :D

  • Haha 1
Posted

With the headliner removed, also check the mechanism (especially the cable) for the cabin vent actuation.  I've seen pictures on mooneyspace of what that entails, and if I ever have to remove my headliner, I'll finally get to repair mine (it works...barely).

  • Thanks 1
Posted

How is it working with the Airtex people?

Its been 20 years since I did interior work on My old M20C... they were a father / son team...

Just came across some notes from the conversation related to my order...

Plan on doing everything while you are in there, once it goes back, it probably won’t come out for another decade.

Antenna cables are a new standard lately... RG400 or something like that...

the cable that operates the roof vent needs to be updated to something that doesn’t rust and stick....

The drain tube that was Tygon / plasticized PVC... needs a better material... that stays flexible and connected...  the roof gets hot, the platicizer comes out of the clear tubing, the tubing gets stiff and brittle... and doesn’t drain properly in the end...

Other than that... everything looks great...  proper tape to keep the wind out, proper insulation to keep it warm, and add stereo wires for your back-seaters...  :) don’t forget a USB power plug while you are in there....

PP thoughts only...

Best regards,

-a-

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Local embroidery shop performed the service.  Unbelievably inexpensive it was.

I supplied the Mooney bird decal and my seat panel material. The shop digitized it and out it came.

I would be happy to retrieve the artwork and send it to you if you wish Jim.

Posted
15 hours ago, MooneyMitch said:

In addition, with headliner removed, it's a perfect time to inspect/replace as needed, old cabin vent tubing!  You've probably already discovered that.   :D

Believe it or not, the vent tubing up in the headliner looks good.

Posted
21 hours ago, Marauder said:

The pink stuff was not required to be pulled with SB-208. Mine has it as well. I think it was required to be pulled in the areas where water could seep down below the window seals and onto the fiberglass mats.

 

4bb7a60143a5080bbf1b8e04b415eec7.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

I am trying to decide what to hate about this.  Should the VHF coax be tywrapped to the GPS coaxs.   Should it all be tywrapped to the vent drain tube.   I give it a +1 for no sharp bends in the coax.   but just hanging there in disary  aggghh my OCD is firing off.   while RG400 is good, I would have run the GPS coax down one side of the plane and the VHF down the other side of the plane.

Posted (edited)
On 4/17/2019 at 8:49 AM, Yetti said:
I am trying to decide what to hate about this.  Should the VHF coax be tywrapped to the GPS coaxs.   Should it all be tywrapped to the vent drain tube.   I give it a +1 for no sharp bends in the coax.   but just hanging there in disary  aggghh my OCD is firing off.   while RG400 is good, I would have run the GPS coax down one side of the plane and the VHF down the other side of the plane.

 


Let me help you Mr. OCD. The RG-400 bundle you see is actually all of the L-3 wiring coming from the active traffic antenna. The single RG-400 coming down from the top is the GPS lead from the roof antenna. The black RG-58 coming from near the hat rack is the VOR cable and was replaced after this photo with RG-400 and it still runs along the side with the VHF cable.

The second comm cable is the black wire running in the bottom bundle. It too was removed and replaced with a RG-400 run. The Com 1 antenna’s cable runs forward of the baggage door and down under the passenger door to the panel.

Since upgrading to RG-400, I can safely say, everything works perfectly.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

Edited by Marauder
  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Supercop0184 said:

Believe it or not, the vent tubing up in the headliner looks good.

Besides the air vent ducting, check the drain line connection to the airbox.  Mine was petrified and leaked like a sieve.  I also had three splits in the aluminum drain tube from water being trapped in it and freezing.    

Tom

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  • Like 1
Posted

Don't forget that SB208 includes pulling the inspection panels under the back seat to inspect the frame underneath the seating area as well!

I found some interesting stuff accumulated under there over 53 years.  

  • Like 1
Posted

MY 64 D is in the same shape right now. Though at first I had rusty tubing but it is only dried trim cement  :-)

Being a 64 and coming in as  CAR3 airplane in reality you only need fabric manufacturers statement that the fabric meets "some" national standard for flammability  and not a full Pt 23 burn test BUT a 23 burn test is always better.  Any fabrics and carpet sold in the USA for use in homes has to meet a national standard to be sold here. Just need the reference from the manufacturer. Its all in 43.13-1B Section 4

  • Like 1
Posted
16 hours ago, MooneyMitch said:

Local embroidery shop performed the service.  Unbelievably inexpensive it was.

I supplied the Mooney bird decal and my seat panel material. The shop digitized it and out it came.

I would be happy to retrieve the artwork and send it to you if you wish Jim.

Wish I could get the embroidery file for the later "vintage" phoenix. My local guy can't create it . . . .

Screenshot_20190417-183101.jpg.55a67b68d97e0d8464c0afdfef49c2ef.jpg

Posted
12 hours ago, Hank said:

Wish I could get the embroidery file for the later "vintage" phoenix. My local guy can't create it . . . .

Screenshot_20190417-183101.jpg.55a67b68d97e0d8464c0afdfef49c2ef.jpg

Sent you a PM

Posted
16 hours ago, cliffy said:

MY 64 D is in the same shape right now. Though at first I had rusty tubing but it is only dried trim cement  :-)

Being a 64 and coming in as  CAR3 airplane in reality you only need fabric manufacturers statement that the fabric meets "some" national standard for flammability  and not a full Pt 23 burn test BUT a 23 burn test is always better.  Any fabrics and carpet sold in the USA for use in homes has to meet a national standard to be sold here. Just need the reference from the manufacturer. Its all in 43.13-1B Section 4

So are all the 64Cs, CAR3?

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