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Cellphone controlled relay switch project: KiaoTime KT-G2 (AT&T 4G capable) plus isolated power relay


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Posted

I just assembled this project in about twenty-five minutes in my freezing garage.

Bought everything from amazon. KiaoTime KT-G2 USA 4G AUTO relay switch for $135 and a Digital Loggers Internet-of-Things (IoT) high-power relay $23.95. I used some existing junk wire, 12” of 22g hook-up wire ($0.05) plus about $0.01 worth of solder to tin the wire ends. Total hardware was 25 minutes of my time and $159.01 USD.

I used the included 12V 1A power supply to power the KT-G2 and also to trigger the IoT high-power relay (which accepts DC or AC as a trigger). As seen in the photos I just snipped the end off and exposed some wire. I installed a jumper between the KT-G2’s main power input (left side, next to the coax input) and the COM screw terminal of the KT-G2 relay #2. The trigger wire’s ground went together with the KT-G2’s power input ground wire and the tigger wire’s positive was attached to the “NO” normally open terminal for relay #2.

I signed up with H2O Wireless for $9 pay-as-you-go plan and it auto refills in 90-day increments. I think I paid $10 for the SIM.

I’m using the KiaoTime app on my phone; all it does it prepopulate a text message. I hooked up the IoT relay to KiaoTime’s second relay (see photo). The first relay on the left seems to be triggered by someone just calling the phone number. I did it want to bother taking the risk of the shenanigans with a random telemarketer turning off my engine and cabin heater. There is a call screening function but I wouldn’t trust that. Text messaging will trigger relays 2-4.

Works great! Using the Digital Loggers IoT relay, it isolates the 120V high-amp stuff from the trivial Chinese “KiaoTime” device. The Digital Loggers equipment is use around the world and they have a great track record from my own personal experience.

129d59a5be96a577ac77837a8d147081.jpg

68c7161becce5bceec9142bd505cfa8f.jpg

944f5fc59bd46504ef1a2a190140fd85.jpg

 

 

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  • Like 2
Posted
So this can reliably recieve a cell phone signal inside a metal hangar.?


Mine can. I was able to get the antenna up high through a cable.


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Posted

I think I would mount this on the outside of hangar...looks like the poly case enclosure is weather proof.Also I would use 4/5 conductor antenna rotator cable to inside of hangar and get rid of the weather nuts altogether

Posted

The “squiggly antenna” thing is for WiFi. Here is the antenna:

87e86da76aac5aeb81c3e25bc0378d48.jpg

If you request a status it will show you the signal strength.

5cc209e2bfde299117d42bf74f4eb2f1.jpg


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Posted

I forgot to screw in the external antenna but it should have good signal there anyways as my phone works in the hangar with the door closed. Next project is to fab a directional magnet mounted WiFi antenna to slap on the roof of the hangar. I’ll use LMR400 to preserve whatever signal I can get. I think there’s a big enough gap to squeeze the LMR through at the top of the main door. I want to leave my RasberryPi streaming server there to broadcast the airport radio traffic.


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Posted

Chances are, a remote antenna can be used... the last one had a remote option....

realistically, my cell phone works in the hangar, so this one might too...

Nice to see the heavy current load is separated from the unit...

I’m not buying one, until it gets the Marauder seal of approval... :)

I jumped too quickly the first time...

Only a PP, not an electrical power distribution engineer...

Best regards,

-a-

Posted
6 hours ago, carusoam said:

Chances are, a remote antenna can be used... the last one had a remote option....

realistically, my cell phone works in the hangar, so this one might too...

Nice to see the heavy current load is separated from the unit...

I’m not buying one, until it gets the Marauder seal of approval... :)

I jumped too quickly the first time...

Only a PP, not an electrical power distribution engineer...

Best regards,

-a-

The kit comes with a magnetic mount whip antenna with a two meter long cord and a 12v wall wort power supply and NO instructions. The Digital Loggers IoT Relay power strip comes with a heavy-duty short power cord. My design was 100% inspired by  IdRatherBeFlying and Marauder's amongst other members ideas. It is important to note that this arrangement is 4G cellular compatible. The cellular firms have retired almost all 2G and will be ending 3G services as soon as they can. This specific version will not work with Verizon 4G/LTE but I believe they sell a Verizon capable version. Typically Verizon and Spring are attached at the hip for technology so I would guess a Spring SIM would require the Verizon version. The KiaoTime KT-G2 I featured will work with AT&T or T-Mobile 4G SIM and their MVNO's such as H2O Wireless that I subscribed to due to the ultra-low pricing scheme. Its low enough that its not even worth shutting off as it auto-refills every 90-days for $9. So $36/yr for cellular switching.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Mjknick@gmail.com said:

I’m sorry, what are you controlling with this switch?


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Reiff engine  heater and a 170 watt Honeywell ceramic heater on the cabin floor in the footwell area. I think the Reiff draws 300 amps (oil pan only). 

Posted

You could consider other applications like triggering an A/C unit to fill your aircraft with cool air or even disco lights.

Posted
On 3/19/2019 at 9:07 AM, tigers2007 said:

I just assembled this project in about twenty-five minutes in my freezing garage.

Bought everything from amazon. KiaoTime KT-G2 USA 4G AUTO relay switch for $135 and a Digital Loggers Internet-of-Things (IoT) high-power relay $23.95. I used some existing junk wire, 12” of 22g hook-up wire ($0.05) plus about $0.01 worth of solder to tin the wire ends. Total hardware was 25 minutes of my time and $159.01 USD.

I used the included 12V 1A power supply to power the KT-G2 and also to trigger the IoT high-power relay (which accepts DC or AC as a trigger). As seen in the photos I just snipped the end off and exposed some wire. I installed a jumper between the KT-G2’s main power input (left side, next to the coax input) and the COM screw terminal of the KT-G2 relay #2. The trigger wire’s ground went together with the KT-G2’s power input ground wire and the tigger wire’s positive was attached to the “NO” normally open terminal for relay #2.

I signed up with H2O Wireless for $9 pay-as-you-go plan and it auto refills in 90-day increments. I think I paid $10 for the SIM.

I’m using the KiaoTime app on my phone; all it does it prepopulate a text message. I hooked up the IoT relay to KiaoTime’s second relay (see photo). The first relay on the left seems to be triggered by someone just calling the phone number. I did it want to bother taking the risk of the shenanigans with a random telemarketer turning off my engine and cabin heater. There is a call screening function but I wouldn’t trust that. Text messaging will trigger relays 2-4.

Works great! Using the Digital Loggers IoT relay, it isolates the 120V high-amp stuff from the trivial Chinese “KiaoTime” device. The Digital Loggers equipment is use around the world and they have a great track record from my own personal experience.

129d59a5be96a577ac77837a8d147081.jpg

68c7161becce5bceec9142bd505cfa8f.jpg

944f5fc59bd46504ef1a2a190140fd85.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

You built the better mousetrap! I had the same switch, but I had the 120V going through the 4G relay and it always made me a little anxious. I rewired it with only 12 V going through the relay and it works! Thank you.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, tigers2007 said:

Reiff engine  heater and a 170 watt Honeywell ceramic heater on the cabin floor in the footwell area. I think the Reiff draws 300 amps (oil pan only). 

:blink: I assume you meant 300 watts?  300 amps seems a little high..

  • Like 1
Posted
On 3/19/2019 at 10:07 AM, tigers2007 said:

I just assembled this project in about twenty-five minutes in my freezing garage.

Bought everything from amazon. KiaoTime KT-G2 USA 4G AUTO relay switch for $135 and a Digital Loggers Internet-of-Things (IoT) high-power relay $23.95. I used some existing junk wire, 12” of 22g hook-up wire ($0.05) plus about $0.01 worth of solder to tin the wire ends. Total hardware was 25 minutes of my time and $159.01 USD.

I used the included 12V 1A power supply to power the KT-G2 and also to trigger the IoT high-power relay (which accepts DC or AC as a trigger). As seen in the photos I just snipped the end off and exposed some wire. I installed a jumper between the KT-G2’s main power input (left side, next to the coax input) and the COM screw terminal of the KT-G2 relay #2. The trigger wire’s ground went together with the KT-G2’s power input ground wire and the tigger wire’s positive was attached to the “NO” normally open terminal for relay #2.

I signed up with H2O Wireless for $9 pay-as-you-go plan and it auto refills in 90-day increments. I think I paid $10 for the SIM.

I’m using the KiaoTime app on my phone; all it does it prepopulate a text message. I hooked up the IoT relay to KiaoTime’s second relay (see photo). The first relay on the left seems to be triggered by someone just calling the phone number. I did it want to bother taking the risk of the shenanigans with a random telemarketer turning off my engine and cabin heater. There is a call screening function but I wouldn’t trust that. Text messaging will trigger relays 2-4.

Works great! Using the Digital Loggers IoT relay, it isolates the 120V high-amp stuff from the trivial Chinese “KiaoTime” device. The Digital Loggers equipment is use around the world and they have a great track record from my own personal experience.

I'll send you $200 plus shipping for one. Or name your price. :-)

Posted
On 3/19/2019 at 12:07 PM, tigers2007 said:

I just assembled this project in about twenty-five minutes in my freezing garage.

Bought everything from amazon. KiaoTime KT-G2 USA 4G AUTO relay switch for $135 and a Digital Loggers Internet-of-Things (IoT) high-power relay $23.95. I used some existing junk wire, 12” of 22g hook-up wire ($0.05) plus about $0.01 worth of solder to tin the wire ends. Total hardware was 25 minutes of my time and $159.01 USD.

I used the included 12V 1A power supply to power the KT-G2 and also to trigger the IoT high-power relay (which accepts DC or AC as a trigger). As seen in the photos I just snipped the end off and exposed some wire. I installed a jumper between the KT-G2’s main power input (left side, next to the coax input) and the COM screw terminal of the KT-G2 relay #2. The trigger wire’s ground went together with the KT-G2’s power input ground wire and the tigger wire’s positive was attached to the “NO” normally open terminal for relay #2.

I signed up with H2O Wireless for $9 pay-as-you-go plan and it auto refills in 90-day increments. I think I paid $10 for the SIM.

I’m using the KiaoTime app on my phone; all it does it prepopulate a text message. I hooked up the IoT relay to KiaoTime’s second relay (see photo). The first relay on the left seems to be triggered by someone just calling the phone number. I did it want to bother taking the risk of the shenanigans with a random telemarketer turning off my engine and cabin heater. There is a call screening function but I wouldn’t trust that. Text messaging will trigger relays 2-4.

Works great! Using the Digital Loggers IoT relay, it isolates the 120V high-amp stuff from the trivial Chinese “KiaoTime” device. The Digital Loggers equipment is use around the world and they have a great track record from my own personal experience.

129d59a5be96a577ac77837a8d147081.jpg

68c7161becce5bceec9142bd505cfa8f.jpg

944f5fc59bd46504ef1a2a190140fd85.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Did you have to cut the factory connector off the power supply?  It seems like the power jack and the individual connectors must be connected if either can supply power to the board.

Posted
45 minutes ago, mooniac15u said:

Did you have to cut the factory connector off the power supply?  It seems like the power jack and the individual connectors must be connected if either can supply power to the board.

I think he has the power to the control board plugged into the unswitched, normally on receptacle (the black power supply) and then has run the red wire to the green receptacle on the IoT which triggers the normally off receptacles.   

Posted
20 minutes ago, Marauder said:

I think he has the power to the control board plugged into the unswitched, normally on receptacle (the black power supply) and then has run the red wire to the green receptacle on the IoT which triggers the normally off receptacles.   

Right.  I'm just wondering about the need to connect the power supply to the terminals rather than using the factory connector via the power jack (if you look at the product listing on Amazon, that power supply comes with a nice factory connector that fits the power jack next to the terminals).  It seems like the terminals must be part of the same circuit if either can power the board.  The rest of the wiring including the jumper would stay the same.

Posted
7 minutes ago, mooniac15u said:

Right.  I'm just wondering about the need to connect the power supply to the terminals rather than using the factory connector via the power jack (if you look at the product listing on Amazon, that power supply comes with a nice factory connector that fits the power jack next to the terminals).  It seems like the terminals must be part of the same circuit if either can power the board.  The rest of the wiring including the jumper would stay the same.

I'm hitting two birds with one stone by not using the factory coax connector. I'm using the same 12V 1A power supply they supplied with the kit but I cut the end off and used the screw-tite terminals (as shown in the photo) to power the KiaoTime unit and then I could also use the same supplied power to trigger the DLI IoT relay power bar. If you plug in the coax plug to power the KiaoTime alone, the screw-tite terminals won't have power as they are protected by diodes (only power allowed into the circuit). 

Posted
39 minutes ago, Marauder said:

I think he has the power to the control board plugged into the unswitched, normally on receptacle (the black power supply) and then has run the red wire to the green receptacle on the IoT which triggers the normally off receptacles.   

yes that is correct it is plugged into the Always On plug. 

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