Lood Posted May 18, 2012 Report Posted May 18, 2012 Well, I certainly going to test it on my engine. My cylinders #1,2 & 3 are very close together, but #4 runs 25 - 30 deg hotter. It's probably not a big deal, ut it annoys me endlessly - more so, seeing that it is a freshly overhauled engine. I haven't done the Gami lean test to determine where #4 runs ITO mixture, compared to the other, but this wedge solution makes perfect sense tome WRT the airflow around the cylinder. Quote
Steve65E-NC Posted September 26, 2013 Report Posted September 26, 2013 This is an interesting stream. My #3 has always been more hot than the spark plug probe problem would suggest. I take off with JPI on #3. In warm weather I have to keep the climb speeds over 125 mph to avoid going over 400 on #3 CH. I think I will try the little piece of glued on silicon, per Bob's photos,  to open up the cooling passage behind #3. I do a lot of work on my aircraft, under proper supervision, and feel comfortable with this experiment.   Thanks.  1 Quote
Shadrach Posted September 26, 2013 Author Report Posted September 26, 2013 Actually, my name is Ross! Quote
Hank Posted September 26, 2013 Report Posted September 26, 2013 That's what happens when you disappear for so long. Welcome back! 2 Quote
Oscar Avalle Posted September 27, 2013 Report Posted September 27, 2013 This is an interesting stream. My #3 has always been more hot than the spark plug probe problem would suggest. I take off with JPI on #3. In warm weather I have to keep the climb speeds over 125 mph to avoid going over 400 on #3 CH. I think I will try the little piece of glued on silicon, per Bob's photos,  to open up the cooling passage behind #3. I do a lot of work on my aircraft, under proper supervision, and feel comfortable with this experiment.   Thanks.  It sounds ok. I will do the same with my #3. My #3 is very hot and this may help. I will report back once I am done.  Actually, Wasn't there somebody else who mentioned that he did the same and had a similar result? Or is it me that I am spending too much time around here... Quote
Bob_Belville Posted September 27, 2013 Report Posted September 27, 2013 As reported elsewhere, this trick cut my delta T for #3cyl CHT from +30/35 to +15/20. Today, at the suggestion of my favorite A&P, I make it a double thickness of standard sealing material. I'm anxious to see if that helps even more. 3 Quote
Shadrach Posted September 27, 2013 Author Report Posted September 27, 2013 Oscar, I look forward to another data point! Quote
Oscar Avalle Posted September 28, 2013 Report Posted September 28, 2013 I tried to do the same, but it seems that the design of the doghouse of the M20C (70) is different... Quote
M016576 Posted September 28, 2013 Report Posted September 28, 2013 Ours, #1 is the hottest cylinder at all times #1 used to be the hottest on mine until I removed that little plate in front of #1. Now it's 60 degrees cooler than before: typically in the low 310's. #3 gained about 5-10 degrees- it now sits around 340. Quote
Bob_Belville Posted September 28, 2013 Report Posted September 28, 2013 #1 used to be the hottest on mine until I removed that little plate in front of #1. Now it's 60 degrees cooler than before: typically in the low 310's. #3 gained about 5-10 degrees- it now sits around 340. Byron, I suppose those temps are your 30-40 LOP temps @ 60% power? What would your CHT look like @ 75%, 100 ROP? Quote
jetdriven Posted September 29, 2013 Report Posted September 29, 2013 Bob, thats 15-25 LOP at 65%, the 75% 10.0 GPH (low) and 15-25 LOP (high) LOP numbers are 360 on #3 and #4 at low altitude, and they push 380 at altitude.  The cowl flaps on our machine close tightly. I am convinced there is huge amount of excess air that goes into the M20J cowling with no where to go, our center top cowl fastener is missing right now, and on a 200 MPH IAS low pass, the spot where the fastener goes is bulged up almost a half inch. Plus if you get a front crank seal leak, the oil blows out the front of the cowl behind the spinner onto the windshield. If you reduced the inlet area by half it would lower drag and not affect CHT much. Quote
Bob_Belville Posted September 29, 2013 Report Posted September 29, 2013 Byron, thanks. your cowl is still more efficient than mine, with all I've done.  I came back from MRH Sunday @ 6000' OAT 60F. @ 60%,  8.0 gph LOP I was seeing cht2&4:357 cht1&3:373. OT @ 192.  2 days earlier going to MRH    @ 7000' OAT 56F  @ 75% 11.5 gph 100 ROP I got   cht2&4:367 cht1:377 ; cht3:388 OT 201 withe cflaps open. later in the flight @ 10.5 gph, 71% indicated HP, the temps were all the same as @ 11.5.  OilT is very sensitive to cowl flap position. closing the flaps gradually results in a liner rise in OilT. Quote
bumper Posted September 29, 2013 Report Posted September 29, 2013 Â I should have mentioned that it's RTV'd (high temp) in place... If it were to actually come loose, what kind of mayhem do you think a 2X10MM piece of silicone rubber would cause? Â Quote
Bob_Belville Posted September 29, 2013 Report Posted September 29, 2013 Oh I dunno, it could get blown back and forth, sort of like a hail stone, gathering velocity and energy until it is finally able to punch hole in the engine case resulting in a catastrophic total loss of oil and eventually causing the plane to end up UDITWOF (upside down in the weeds on fire). Just sayin' :c)  bumper "It" is a piece of 1/8" fg reinforced silicone baffle seal. IOW is "rubber". www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/siliconecowlseals.php?clickkey=12783 And to put it in place one uses a good sized screw drive or similar to open the space between the cyl and the sheet metal baffle behind #3. Slide the rubber in and when the pry bar is removed the rubber is firmly pinched holding the baffle wall a little further off the cyl. (My A&P/IA assured me more than once there is no stress to the cyl from this spacer or the act of inserting it. If one were to pry too hard it might be possible to crack the baffle sheet metal.) Quote
Shadrach Posted September 29, 2013 Author Report Posted September 29, 2013 Me thinks bumper is being sarcastic... Quote
Bob_Belville Posted October 5, 2013 Report Posted October 5, 2013 Well, I doubled up on the shim behind #3 cyl. but if anything that cylinder is now hotter relative to #1. I think I'll go back to 1 thickness of silicone seal. Quote
Shadrach Posted October 6, 2013 Author Report Posted October 6, 2013 Careful Bob, that piece of baffle material is too big. It's preventing air from circulating around an area the width of 5 fins, plus creating turbulence around it. Look at the pic in my OP; it's very low profile (narrow). That big piece you have in there is probably killing 10% of your airflow around that cylinder. Hot spots are not a good thing. 2 Quote
flyingvee201 Posted October 6, 2013 Report Posted October 6, 2013 Careful Bob, that piece of baffle material is too big. It's preventing air from circulating around an area the width of 5 fins, plus creating turbulence around it. Look at the pic in my OP; it's very low profile (narrow). That big piece you have in there is probably killing 10% of your airflow around that cylinder. Hot spots are not a good thing.  Maybe use Ross' thin strip measurements and double stack it by gluing two thin pieces. Maybe use RTV temp stuff to glue the two thin strips together? 1 Quote
Bob_Belville Posted October 6, 2013 Report Posted October 6, 2013 Maybe use Ross' thin strip measurements and double stack it by gluing two thin pieces. Maybe use RTV temp stuff to glue the two thin strips together? The silicone fits very tight. I will pull the wide piece out an put a minimum wide piece back in.  I suppose I should be a little concerned about transferring vibration from the engine to the whole baffle structure. I have some cowl cracks and believe I need to replace the 12 year old  Barry Engine Mounts. (The engine is sagging relative to the cowl. Quote
Shadrach Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Posted October 11, 2013 Your engine is running hotter now? Quote
Shadrach Posted October 12, 2013 Author Report Posted October 12, 2013 Search "target EGT method". 25X25 is really kind of a lousy method. Took me a decade to break my Father of it... Quote
Bob_Belville Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 Boy, I've tried to get modern with WOT & 2650 RPM for climb several times (25 square was SOP when I owned my 1st M20E 30 years ago) but even at 110-120 KIAS CHTs are pretty hot. Pulling back to ~ 25" seems to result in cooler CHTs @ the same IAS. 1 Quote
romair Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 Bob - is your fuel flow high enough at take off? That could be a cause for high CHTs. Stefan Quote
Shadrach Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Posted October 13, 2013 Max FF is not adjustable on the Bendix RSA. The only adjustment is idle mixture. 1 Quote
Bob_Belville Posted October 13, 2013 Report Posted October 13, 2013 Bob - is your fuel flow high enough at take off? That could be a cause for high CHTs. Stefan Stefan, data from last flight: (from KIWI, elev 50') 29.4 & 2644; FF: 17.4 Â 17.4 is typical of my max flow. Prop control was firewall, max RPM varies some from flight to flight, seems to be affected by Oil Temp. (IO360A1A) Quote
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