mooney2201 Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 does anyone make a aftermarket stc, Battery box,for m20j
jetdriven Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 (edited) No. It's pretty well integrated into the plane too, so there's new, used, or owner fabricated. It may not be too hard to fabricate replacement parts to it. Edited March 6, 2017 by jetdriven
carusoam Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 How bad is it? Gel cell batteries keeps the need for the box to be perfectly water tight to a minimum... Can It hold the battery in place, or is it really in pieces? PP imagination going wild, probably not helpful ideas from a mechanic. Best regards, -a-
mike20papa Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 A composite repair is probably the best solution. Drill the rivets out, remove the bottom and it can be easily worked on - repaired - better than new. Epoxy resin and S glass, then rivet back together and paint.
mooneyflyfast Posted March 6, 2017 Report Posted March 6, 2017 It's a bear to replace. My mechanic said it looked like Mooney started with the battery box and built the airplane around it. Parts were hard to come by, too.
mooney2201 Posted March 6, 2017 Author Report Posted March 6, 2017 its not corroded...its just a bitch to line up the tabs, And put in the cotter pins in the top.Thought that there is an easier way to lock down the top.But no corrosion at all..!!!!!!!! 1
markejackson02 Posted March 7, 2017 Report Posted March 7, 2017 They are a huge PITA. I searched for my 1978 M20J and found nothing. Pretty much have to buy and refurbish a used one or build your own.
Yetti Posted March 7, 2017 Report Posted March 7, 2017 New or very straight cotter pins. Needle nose to hold. Or hemostats. Pin from starbord to port. More room to work.
DonMuncy Posted March 8, 2017 Report Posted March 8, 2017 I don't know if the cotter pin situation is the same as a K, but I found it helpful to run a long piece of string through the pin, so you can pull it back up if you drop it. Once installed, pull the string back out.
jetdriven Posted March 8, 2017 Report Posted March 8, 2017 57 minutes ago, DonMuncy said: I don't know if the cotter pin situation is the same as a K, but I found it helpful to run a long piece of string through the pin, so you can pull it back up if you drop it. Once installed, pull the string back out. Thats a very smart idea. I have been telling myself not to drop the cotter pins, but its like telling yourself to not crash today. Sometimes it happens.
carusoam Posted March 8, 2017 Report Posted March 8, 2017 The 65C had them too... But, when they drop, they come out the cowl flaps. Best regards, -a-
DonMuncy Posted March 8, 2017 Report Posted March 8, 2017 I think all of us were saying cotter when we really meant hitch. 1
carusoam Posted March 8, 2017 Report Posted March 8, 2017 And nice stainless hitch pins too. I'm still learning. Best regards, -a-
Yetti Posted March 8, 2017 Report Posted March 8, 2017 Mine have cotter pins. The longer pin, say inch and a half, seem to help assembly
mooniac15u Posted March 8, 2017 Report Posted March 8, 2017 The parts catalog specifies an AN415 lock pin as shown in @N201MKTurbo's post. 1
Brian2034 Posted January 12 Report Posted January 12 On 3/6/2017 at 12:52 AM, mike20papa said: A composite repair is probably the best solution. Drill the rivets out, remove the bottom and it can be easily worked on - repaired - better than new. Epoxy resin and S glass, then rivet back together and paint. a little epoxy and paint works great 2
Recommended Posts