Marauder Posted August 31, 2016 Report Posted August 31, 2016 I have a Brackett air filter on mine. 1.2" is what I am seeing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Pictreed Posted September 1, 2016 Author Report Posted September 1, 2016 I made progress but I don't think I'll get a sign off since I sanded a bit too much in one corner. I'll start over since I now have a good template. But that's fine, I wanted to paint it too. Rivets got better as I went. I ended up going with an outdoor grade 400 degree silicone rubber with a 70 hardness. Let the ribbing and laughing begin... Quote
cnoe Posted September 1, 2016 Report Posted September 1, 2016 Look at the bright side; think of all the great practice you're getting drilling out rivets. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 2 Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted September 1, 2016 Report Posted September 1, 2016 Strip the metal before you put it back together and Repaint after you put the rivets in. Cut the rubber big until you put it in then make trial fits and trim a little off at a time. 2 Quote
TheTurtle Posted September 1, 2016 Report Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) 6 hours ago, Pictreed said: I made progress but I don't think I'll get a sign off since I sanded a bit too much in one corner. I'll start over since I now have a good template. But that's fine, I wanted to paint it too. Rivets got better as I went. I ended up going with an outdoor grade 400 degree silicone rubber with a 70 hardness. Let the ribbing and laughing begin... Looks like a good first attempt. Link the rubber you ended up using. Im going to tackle this pretty soon as well. Edited September 1, 2016 by TheTurtle Quote
Guest Posted September 1, 2016 Report Posted September 1, 2016 8 hours ago, Pictreed said: I made progress but I don't think I'll get a sign off since I sanded a bit too much in one corner. I'll start over since I now have a good template. But that's fine, I wanted to paint it too. Rivets got better as I went. I ended up going with an outdoor grade 400 degree silicone rubber with a 70 hardness. Let the ribbing and laughing begin... When it's finally ready make sure you put new lock washers on the 3 screws, a drop of blue Loctite won't hurt either. Anything downstream of the door can be ingested. Clarence Quote
TheTurtle Posted September 6, 2016 Report Posted September 6, 2016 I think this may be the time to use my word of the day. Serindipitous. I dont think I spelled that correctly... Anyway, was going through a box of stuff the PO gave me with the plane and found this. Its a very floppy rubber kind of feels like an innertube or maybe wetsuit. I guess somebody repopped them at some point. no part number on it. 1 Quote
Pictreed Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Posted September 12, 2016 I used 3/32" silicone from McMaster Carr that's rated to 400 degrees. http://www.mcmaster.com/#1460n13/=1452qw9 I used 70 hardness but I also ordered 60 which I might try as well. On the one I installed I have a hair width of light showing through on one side. When I disassemble to paint I'll slide it over a bit. When you take it apart I recommend drilling out the rivet head like you would usually do and remove the top plate. Then drill down to the next plate since the rivet probably expanded in the rubber section. Quote
chrixxer Posted September 28, 2018 Report Posted September 28, 2018 On 9/6/2016 at 4:04 PM, TheTurtle said: I think this may be the time to use my word of the day. Serindipitous. I dont think I spelled that correctly... Anyway, was going through a box of stuff the PO gave me with the plane and found this. Its a very floppy rubber kind of feels like an innertube or maybe wetsuit. I guess somebody repopped them at some point. no part number on it. Is the gasket supposed to hang down below the door? 1 Quote
MyNameIsNobody Posted September 29, 2018 Report Posted September 29, 2018 On 8/20/2016 at 5:00 PM, N201MKTurbo said: Just take it apart and replace the gasket with reinforced baffle seal. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/siliconecowlseals5.php?clickkey=264132 The 1/8 X 3 with fiberglass should do nicely. How do you log something like this? I purchased the seal material from a Mooney Service Center when it needed replacement. This seems reasonable, but O.K. In a certified plane? Quote
MyNameIsNobody Posted September 29, 2018 Report Posted September 29, 2018 On 9/28/2018 at 12:41 AM, chrixxer said: Is the gasket supposed to hang down below the door? Yes. That is how it “Seals the opening properly. I can see my gasket on mine behind the door. 1 Quote
MyNameIsNobody Posted September 29, 2018 Report Posted September 29, 2018 On 8/30/2016 at 8:09 PM, Bob_Belville said: I don't think the type filter would explain that much difference, check condition of the foam filter - it might need replacing, pretty cheap, under $20 for the BA 6305 that should fit your F. Every year at annual. Same as the fuel cap gaskets. Quote
Ragsf15e Posted September 30, 2018 Report Posted September 30, 2018 1.0” more mp for Ram air like Marauder and Bob B. 1968 M20F, JPI930 and consistent. More importantly, ~3-4 knots better cruise at 9,000’!!! That’s better than gap seals+cowl closure+inner gear doors! Several 4 way and 3 way ground speed checks, and that door does make a little difference. of course I didn’t use it all summer in Washington because I couldn’t climb higher than all the horrible wildfire smoke. I know what that’s doing to my lungs, and I don’t want it in my engine! Quote
TheTurtle Posted September 30, 2018 Report Posted September 30, 2018 On 9/27/2018 at 10:41 PM, chrixxer said: Is the gasket supposed to hang down below the door? yea I trimmed it a little to make sure the door closed properly. but it should hang over to seal. Quote
Shiny moose Posted October 1, 2018 Report Posted October 1, 2018 Seal needs to extend through slot on the bottom, so that when the door is open the rubber seal stays in place along the bottom. Lube your cable. Door opens easier inflight, make sure you can close it easily with a good seal. Oh and I get 1” when I open the door Quote
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