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Posted

The changing the tire part is like a car front tire brake rotor servicing.  

jack it up and put safety stands in place.

remove two bolts on brake pad

remove big cotter pin

remove big nut-  l Think it was 1" or 1"1/4 socket

pull wheel assembly Be careful to note spacers and felt washer location - take pictures

Remove 3 bolts that hold wheel together

Tap gently with rubber mallet to separate wheel halves

Remove tube and tires

Examine and clean tire

Replace new tube with talc powder

slightly inflate

Reassemble wheel you don't want to pinch the tube in the wheel halves

Three bolts I think it to 90 inch

Wheel on shaft with proper spacers

you torque the wheel bearings to 75 in/lbs while rotating the wheel to set the bearings then back off to zero, then come back up to 40 while rotating the wheel, then cotter pin

https://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft Wheel & Brake Division/AWB Static Files for Literature/AWB Product Catalog Static Files/AWBCMM0001-12.pdf

https://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft Wheel & Brake Division/AWB Static Files for Literature/AWBTSG0001-13.pdf

Reinstall brake backer pads thingy.

 

Since you loosened the brakes up you need to hop in and gently get them up to touching the rotor, so when you start the plane the brakes will work.  Just pump them a could times till you have firm pressure.

Sign log book with your pilot certificate number

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for all the help guys.  I've never changed a tire off anything in my life, I've always hired that out.  I don't think I'm going to make my first experience and airplane in situ where a mistake could have lethal consequences.  Heck I am right now dealing with a home project disaster bad enough that it's going to take twice as long to fix as it did to do. What a great holiday weekend I'm having.

I have to get out to the hangar to check what kind of tire I need. I think I'll go ahead and order one, cheap insurance.  Fortunately the little jack thingies are $25 from Aircraft Spruce. Sounds like a plan.

  • Like 1
Posted
56 minutes ago, steingar said:

Thanks for all the help guys.  I've never changed a tire off anything in my life, I've always hired that out.  I don't think I'm going to make my first experience and airplane in situ where a mistake could have lethal consequences.  Heck I am right now dealing with a home project disaster bad enough that it's going to take twice as long to fix as it did to do. What a great holiday weekend I'm having.

I have to get out to the hangar to check what kind of tire I need. I think I'll go ahead and order one, cheap insurance.  Fortunately the little jack thingies are $25 from Aircraft Spruce. Sounds like a plan.

From what I have read, you would be well off to pay the local A$P to do this while you watch him. He will show you how to properly remove the tire from the wheel, talc the Michelin air stop tube and partially inflate, torque the wheel halves, clean and repack the bearings, and re-safety wire the brake calipers, all while you note all the tools and supplies you will need to have on hand to do this job properly yourself the next time.

 

  • Like 2
Posted

I thought there was a trick to break the tire bead off the wheel? I vaguely remember something about using 2x4 and standing on it.

And it's not mentioned, maybe too obvious, but you want to fully deflate tire before taking the wheel apart

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/1/2016 at 0:01 PM, ELT said:

I changed my nose tire by putting a solid steel bar through the nose truss tubing and used a jack.  The other wheels were well chocked.  I think you could do the same with the mains.

This how I jack my plane up for gear retraction.  I then use 32'' saw horses under the wings outboard of the mains vs. using jack points.

  • Like 1
Posted

If your doing just one main tire you can have someone place their back under the spar at the wing tip and easily lift the tire off the ground and then place a 32'' wood saw horse 16'' outboard of the main wheel under the spar.  This is the procedure from the Mooney m20a service manual.  I'm sure it would work just as well for a metal wing also. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Well parts are ordered, and I kept the advice from this thread in mind while I did so.  They should be here within the week, now just a matter of getting the mechanic on board.  With luck I'll have time to run out and help/witness.  I did the brake pads and wheel bearings on my old airplane, seemed way easier than doing them on my bike.  Most expensive tire chnage I've ever seen, and I ran some pretty high powered tires on my Sport bike (which was way faster than any GSXR).

  • Like 1
Posted

RULE #1 When changing aircraft tires-ALWAYS, ALWAYS , ALWAYS REMOVE THE VALVE CORE FIRST BEFOR YOU DO ANYTHING WITH THE TIRE

RULE #2 REREAD RULE NUMBER 1!!!!!!

Even if the tire is flat you need to be in the habit of removing the tire valve BEFORE you touch the wheel. This sets up the habit pattern of always doing it right.

If you forget just one time and the tire has air in it,  it can explode as you loosen the wheel bolts and kill you!!!!

Also always check the wheel bolts before you loosen the axle nut to see if all the nuts are on the bolts and some not broken off. We see broken wheel bolts often. That's why we deflate before we even remove the axle nut. If nuts are missing what do you think is holding the wheel together?

Can we all say- the axle nut  !!!

If you are going to do this, do it safe.

I've seen a tire and wheel come apart, it's not a pretty sight. 

It's just as dangerous and working on a split rim truck tire, it can kill you if not done correctly.

There is more to it than first meets the eye. 

  • Like 2
Posted

OK I'll bite I know a GXSR is not the fastest but now I'm curious what bike you think is "way" faster.  Good luck on the tire repairs (avoid thread drift when possible)

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, bonal said:

OK I'll bite I know a GXSR is not the fastest but now I'm curious what bike you think is "way" faster.  Good luck on the tire repairs (avoid thread drift when possible)

My Honda 954rr was stupid fast, and had the highest power to weight ratio of any sport bike.  It had a similar problem to the Mooney, not easy to keep it under triple digit speeds.  I wish I could have kept it.  It always hurt while I rode it, but the hurt started sticking around after I got off.  Sucks, since I can't casually smoke GSXRs anymore.

Posted
1 hour ago, steingar said:

My Honda 954rr was stupid fast, and had the highest power to weight ratio of any sport bike.  It had a similar problem to the Mooney, not easy to keep it under triple digit speeds.  I wish I could have kept it.  It always hurt while I rode it, but the hurt started sticking around after I got off.  Sucks, since I can't casually smoke GSXRs anymore.

I've had to give up my crotch-rocket days as well.  But hey, as a former GSXR pilot... let's go out and race our M20C's. Whadda ya say? Oshkosh might be a good opportunity :-)

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, gsxrpilot said:

I've had to give up my crotch-rocket days as well.  But hey, as a former GSXR pilot... let's go out and race our M20C's. Whadda ya say? Oshkosh might be a good opportunity :-)

Love to, you'll probably win. The Mooney isn't particularly fast for an M20C.  What I really want at Oshkosh is to find a CFI who's comfortable flying the J-bar Mooney, so my pal can get some time in it.  I want him to partner up in it.

Tire and tube are on the way. Jack pads aren't. They're back ordered.  This keeps getting better.  Not even certain the Mooney will make it to Oshkosh.

Posted
Just now, steingar said:

Love to, you'll probably win. The Mooney isn't particularly fast for an M20C.  What I really want at Oshkosh is to find a CFI who's comfortable flying the J-bar Mooney, so my pal can get some time in it.  I want him to partner up in it.

Tire and tube are on the way. Jack pads aren't. They're back ordered.  This keeps getting better.  Not even certain the Mooney will make it to Oshkosh.

Certainly don't let a couple of jack pads keep you from Oshkosh. Get some saw horses, some padding, a couple of strong guys and change that tire.

Posted
Just now, gsxrpilot said:

Certainly don't let a couple of jack pads keep you from Oshkosh. Get some saw horses, some padding, a couple of strong guys and change that tire.

If this goes on much longer that's exactly what I'm going to do.

Posted

Socket head cap screws will work, too. (Those nice bolts you screw in with an Allen wrench.) two of them should run you about 50¢ at a hardware store. Screw 'me in, they'll hold the top of the jack just fine.

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Hank said:

Socket head cap screws will work, too. (Those nice bolts you screw in with an Allen wrench.) two of them should run you about 50¢ at a hardware store. Screw 'me in, they'll hold the top of the jack just fine.

I don't get it. You buy a 50K or a 100k airplane and you don't have jack points. Instead of paying the 54$ and the 30$ overnight shipping , we have 2 pages about how to, frankly, jury rig how to Jack the airplane up to change the tire.  I mean seriously, this is 80$ we're taking about vs 30k for reskinning one section because the saw horse dented the skin or the bottle Jack fell over or the Jack rammed a hole through the wing.  

I may be a prick but if you at willing to make compromises over the cost of 80$ to Jack your airplanes, you really can't afford to own an airplane.  The problem with Mooney's isn't the aircraft, it's the fact a cheap to operate, it the fact it attracts cheap owners. 

Edited by jetdriven
  • Like 2
Posted
Just now, jetdriven said:

I don't get it. You buy a 50K or a 100k airplane and you don't have jack points. Instead of paying the 54$ and the 30$ overnight shipping , we have 2 pages about how to, frankly, jury rig how to Jack the airplane up to change the tire.  I mean seriously, this is 80$ we're taking about vs 30k for reskinning one section because the saw horse dented the skin or the bottle Jack fell over or the Jack rammed a hole through the wing.  

I may be a prick but if you at willing to make compromises over the cost of 80$ to Jack your airplanes, you really can't afford to own an airplane.  The problem with obeys isn't the aircraft, it's the fact a cheap to operate airplane at texts cheap owners. 

Byron,

What do those $54 jack points look like. I don't think I have seen them.

Posted
2 minutes ago, DonMuncy said:

Byron,

What do those $54 jack points look like. I don't think I have seen them.

Here you go. They are on my plane as well. 

image.jpeg

Posted (edited)

What we have here, Byron, are ways he can change his flat tire without waiting a week for parts to arrive UPS. I carry real jack points in my hatrack, not the LASAR combo jack points / tie down rings. I don't like putting my tie down ropes over that thin sheet metal edge, the big 1/4" diameter ring is much friendlier to the ropes when I'm away from home and need them.

Don't think I'd try the sawhorse trick, even though it is taken directly from a Mooney Maintenance Manual. It's not the first time I've read that. I'll have to check and see what mine says next time I'm at the hangar.

Edited by Hank
  • Like 1
Posted

Elevating on a saw horse is in the manual..................for the Mite, it weighs 500 lbs.  

Jack points are only needed to raise the entire plane for gear swings not to change the tire, at least 2 alternatives have been suggested, if people cared to read all of the posts.

Clarence

Posted

My problem with the Laser ones are twofold.  You are balancing the plane on the point.  I have had way too many jacks slip out from under cars and trucks and tractors because they were balanced on a point.  The other is the edge of the LASAR tie down will cut a rope in a storm.   Growing up sailing, I have seen what wave and wind action will do to a rope. Even with mine that have a thicker tie down surface I carry caribiners so the rope has a round surface to work with.

  • Like 2

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