Yetti Posted July 3, 2016 Report Posted July 3, 2016 The changing the tire part is like a car front tire brake rotor servicing. jack it up and put safety stands in place. remove two bolts on brake pad remove big cotter pin remove big nut- l Think it was 1" or 1"1/4 socket pull wheel assembly Be careful to note spacers and felt washer location - take pictures Remove 3 bolts that hold wheel together Tap gently with rubber mallet to separate wheel halves Remove tube and tires Examine and clean tire Replace new tube with talc powder slightly inflate Reassemble wheel you don't want to pinch the tube in the wheel halves Three bolts I think it to 90 inch Wheel on shaft with proper spacers you torque the wheel bearings to 75 in/lbs while rotating the wheel to set the bearings then back off to zero, then come back up to 40 while rotating the wheel, then cotter pin https://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft Wheel & Brake Division/AWB Static Files for Literature/AWB Product Catalog Static Files/AWBCMM0001-12.pdf https://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft Wheel & Brake Division/AWB Static Files for Literature/AWBTSG0001-13.pdf Reinstall brake backer pads thingy. Since you loosened the brakes up you need to hop in and gently get them up to touching the rotor, so when you start the plane the brakes will work. Just pump them a could times till you have firm pressure. Sign log book with your pilot certificate number 1 Quote
steingar Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Posted July 3, 2016 Thanks for all the help guys. I've never changed a tire off anything in my life, I've always hired that out. I don't think I'm going to make my first experience and airplane in situ where a mistake could have lethal consequences. Heck I am right now dealing with a home project disaster bad enough that it's going to take twice as long to fix as it did to do. What a great holiday weekend I'm having. I have to get out to the hangar to check what kind of tire I need. I think I'll go ahead and order one, cheap insurance. Fortunately the little jack thingies are $25 from Aircraft Spruce. Sounds like a plan. 1 Quote
Yetti Posted July 3, 2016 Report Posted July 3, 2016 Type data sheet is your friend. says for a C mains are 6.00-6 ply Type III http://www.67m20e.com/Mooney TCDS 2A3 Rev 52 dtd 9DEC10.pdf My home repair consisted of She said your window is falling apart. I said it is over 100 years old it is allowed to $120 at homer dan and 8 hours later and we have a nice new one with screen and everything. . Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted July 3, 2016 Report Posted July 3, 2016 Ok, if this is where the thread is going, my project for today is to make the mantle for the top of this: Quote
mike_elliott Posted July 3, 2016 Report Posted July 3, 2016 56 minutes ago, steingar said: Thanks for all the help guys. I've never changed a tire off anything in my life, I've always hired that out. I don't think I'm going to make my first experience and airplane in situ where a mistake could have lethal consequences. Heck I am right now dealing with a home project disaster bad enough that it's going to take twice as long to fix as it did to do. What a great holiday weekend I'm having. I have to get out to the hangar to check what kind of tire I need. I think I'll go ahead and order one, cheap insurance. Fortunately the little jack thingies are $25 from Aircraft Spruce. Sounds like a plan. From what I have read, you would be well off to pay the local A$P to do this while you watch him. He will show you how to properly remove the tire from the wheel, talc the Michelin air stop tube and partially inflate, torque the wheel halves, clean and repack the bearings, and re-safety wire the brake calipers, all while you note all the tools and supplies you will need to have on hand to do this job properly yourself the next time. 2 Quote
ArtVandelay Posted July 3, 2016 Report Posted July 3, 2016 I thought there was a trick to break the tire bead off the wheel? I vaguely remember something about using 2x4 and standing on it. And it's not mentioned, maybe too obvious, but you want to fully deflate tire before taking the wheel apart 1 Quote
Yetti Posted July 3, 2016 Report Posted July 3, 2016 You can stand on the tire put it on some cardbord so you don't scratch the wheel 1 Quote
kerry Posted July 3, 2016 Report Posted July 3, 2016 On 7/1/2016 at 0:01 PM, ELT said: I changed my nose tire by putting a solid steel bar through the nose truss tubing and used a jack. The other wheels were well chocked. I think you could do the same with the mains. This how I jack my plane up for gear retraction. I then use 32'' saw horses under the wings outboard of the mains vs. using jack points. 1 Quote
kerry Posted July 3, 2016 Report Posted July 3, 2016 If your doing just one main tire you can have someone place their back under the spar at the wing tip and easily lift the tire off the ground and then place a 32'' wood saw horse 16'' outboard of the main wheel under the spar. This is the procedure from the Mooney m20a service manual. I'm sure it would work just as well for a metal wing also. 1 Quote
steingar Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Posted July 4, 2016 Well parts are ordered, and I kept the advice from this thread in mind while I did so. They should be here within the week, now just a matter of getting the mechanic on board. With luck I'll have time to run out and help/witness. I did the brake pads and wheel bearings on my old airplane, seemed way easier than doing them on my bike. Most expensive tire chnage I've ever seen, and I ran some pretty high powered tires on my Sport bike (which was way faster than any GSXR). 1 Quote
cliffy Posted July 5, 2016 Report Posted July 5, 2016 RULE #1 When changing aircraft tires-ALWAYS, ALWAYS , ALWAYS REMOVE THE VALVE CORE FIRST BEFOR YOU DO ANYTHING WITH THE TIRE RULE #2 REREAD RULE NUMBER 1!!!!!! Even if the tire is flat you need to be in the habit of removing the tire valve BEFORE you touch the wheel. This sets up the habit pattern of always doing it right. If you forget just one time and the tire has air in it, it can explode as you loosen the wheel bolts and kill you!!!! Also always check the wheel bolts before you loosen the axle nut to see if all the nuts are on the bolts and some not broken off. We see broken wheel bolts often. That's why we deflate before we even remove the axle nut. If nuts are missing what do you think is holding the wheel together? Can we all say- the axle nut !!! If you are going to do this, do it safe. I've seen a tire and wheel come apart, it's not a pretty sight. It's just as dangerous and working on a split rim truck tire, it can kill you if not done correctly. There is more to it than first meets the eye. 2 Quote
carusoam Posted July 5, 2016 Report Posted July 5, 2016 Nice advice, Cliffy. It may be only a few psi, but it is a lot of square inches aimed at you... Best regards, -a- 2 Quote
bonal Posted July 5, 2016 Report Posted July 5, 2016 OK I'll bite I know a GXSR is not the fastest but now I'm curious what bike you think is "way" faster. Good luck on the tire repairs (avoid thread drift when possible) 2 Quote
steingar Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Posted July 5, 2016 1 hour ago, bonal said: OK I'll bite I know a GXSR is not the fastest but now I'm curious what bike you think is "way" faster. Good luck on the tire repairs (avoid thread drift when possible) My Honda 954rr was stupid fast, and had the highest power to weight ratio of any sport bike. It had a similar problem to the Mooney, not easy to keep it under triple digit speeds. I wish I could have kept it. It always hurt while I rode it, but the hurt started sticking around after I got off. Sucks, since I can't casually smoke GSXRs anymore. Quote
gsxrpilot Posted July 5, 2016 Report Posted July 5, 2016 1 hour ago, steingar said: My Honda 954rr was stupid fast, and had the highest power to weight ratio of any sport bike. It had a similar problem to the Mooney, not easy to keep it under triple digit speeds. I wish I could have kept it. It always hurt while I rode it, but the hurt started sticking around after I got off. Sucks, since I can't casually smoke GSXRs anymore. I've had to give up my crotch-rocket days as well. But hey, as a former GSXR pilot... let's go out and race our M20C's. Whadda ya say? Oshkosh might be a good opportunity :-) 1 Quote
steingar Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Posted July 5, 2016 1 hour ago, gsxrpilot said: I've had to give up my crotch-rocket days as well. But hey, as a former GSXR pilot... let's go out and race our M20C's. Whadda ya say? Oshkosh might be a good opportunity :-) Love to, you'll probably win. The Mooney isn't particularly fast for an M20C. What I really want at Oshkosh is to find a CFI who's comfortable flying the J-bar Mooney, so my pal can get some time in it. I want him to partner up in it. Tire and tube are on the way. Jack pads aren't. They're back ordered. This keeps getting better. Not even certain the Mooney will make it to Oshkosh. Quote
gsxrpilot Posted July 5, 2016 Report Posted July 5, 2016 Just now, steingar said: Love to, you'll probably win. The Mooney isn't particularly fast for an M20C. What I really want at Oshkosh is to find a CFI who's comfortable flying the J-bar Mooney, so my pal can get some time in it. I want him to partner up in it. Tire and tube are on the way. Jack pads aren't. They're back ordered. This keeps getting better. Not even certain the Mooney will make it to Oshkosh. Certainly don't let a couple of jack pads keep you from Oshkosh. Get some saw horses, some padding, a couple of strong guys and change that tire. Quote
steingar Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Posted July 5, 2016 Just now, gsxrpilot said: Certainly don't let a couple of jack pads keep you from Oshkosh. Get some saw horses, some padding, a couple of strong guys and change that tire. If this goes on much longer that's exactly what I'm going to do. Quote
Hank Posted July 6, 2016 Report Posted July 6, 2016 Socket head cap screws will work, too. (Those nice bolts you screw in with an Allen wrench.) two of them should run you about 50¢ at a hardware store. Screw 'me in, they'll hold the top of the jack just fine. Quote
jetdriven Posted July 6, 2016 Report Posted July 6, 2016 (edited) 3 hours ago, Hank said: Socket head cap screws will work, too. (Those nice bolts you screw in with an Allen wrench.) two of them should run you about 50¢ at a hardware store. Screw 'me in, they'll hold the top of the jack just fine. I don't get it. You buy a 50K or a 100k airplane and you don't have jack points. Instead of paying the 54$ and the 30$ overnight shipping , we have 2 pages about how to, frankly, jury rig how to Jack the airplane up to change the tire. I mean seriously, this is 80$ we're taking about vs 30k for reskinning one section because the saw horse dented the skin or the bottle Jack fell over or the Jack rammed a hole through the wing. I may be a prick but if you at willing to make compromises over the cost of 80$ to Jack your airplanes, you really can't afford to own an airplane. The problem with Mooney's isn't the aircraft, it's the fact a cheap to operate, it the fact it attracts cheap owners. Edited July 6, 2016 by jetdriven 2 Quote
DonMuncy Posted July 6, 2016 Report Posted July 6, 2016 Just now, jetdriven said: I don't get it. You buy a 50K or a 100k airplane and you don't have jack points. Instead of paying the 54$ and the 30$ overnight shipping , we have 2 pages about how to, frankly, jury rig how to Jack the airplane up to change the tire. I mean seriously, this is 80$ we're taking about vs 30k for reskinning one section because the saw horse dented the skin or the bottle Jack fell over or the Jack rammed a hole through the wing. I may be a prick but if you at willing to make compromises over the cost of 80$ to Jack your airplanes, you really can't afford to own an airplane. The problem with obeys isn't the aircraft, it's the fact a cheap to operate airplane at texts cheap owners. Byron, What do those $54 jack points look like. I don't think I have seen them. Quote
jetdriven Posted July 6, 2016 Report Posted July 6, 2016 2 minutes ago, DonMuncy said: Byron, What do those $54 jack points look like. I don't think I have seen them. Here you go. They are on my plane as well. Quote
Hank Posted July 6, 2016 Report Posted July 6, 2016 (edited) What we have here, Byron, are ways he can change his flat tire without waiting a week for parts to arrive UPS. I carry real jack points in my hatrack, not the LASAR combo jack points / tie down rings. I don't like putting my tie down ropes over that thin sheet metal edge, the big 1/4" diameter ring is much friendlier to the ropes when I'm away from home and need them. Don't think I'd try the sawhorse trick, even though it is taken directly from a Mooney Maintenance Manual. It's not the first time I've read that. I'll have to check and see what mine says next time I'm at the hangar. Edited July 6, 2016 by Hank 1 Quote
Guest Posted July 6, 2016 Report Posted July 6, 2016 Elevating on a saw horse is in the manual..................for the Mite, it weighs 500 lbs. Jack points are only needed to raise the entire plane for gear swings not to change the tire, at least 2 alternatives have been suggested, if people cared to read all of the posts. Clarence Quote
Yetti Posted July 6, 2016 Report Posted July 6, 2016 My problem with the Laser ones are twofold. You are balancing the plane on the point. I have had way too many jacks slip out from under cars and trucks and tractors because they were balanced on a point. The other is the edge of the LASAR tie down will cut a rope in a storm. Growing up sailing, I have seen what wave and wind action will do to a rope. Even with mine that have a thicker tie down surface I carry caribiners so the rope has a round surface to work with. 2 Quote
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