buddy

After about 25 yrs On my 1980 M20J I used rivnuts on the holes that were stripped out and they worked great.

Check and make sure that the Hobbs meter is not running after shutdown. I found mine did and I just disconnected it, pulled one wire of the back of it. You can also hear if the Hobbs meter running if you put your ear close to it.

I believe I bought a universal tail pipe hanger from an auto parts store and cut the rubber out from in between the metal brackets.

My oral stall warning didn’t sound on the ground either only when I got a couple of hundred feet in the air taking off. Move the tab up and wiggle it from side to side and see if it hangs up, that’s what happened to mine.

I had the same problem once after washing the airplane, I must have pushed the stall warning tab up and over to the outboard side of the wing and the tab got hung up. I found the problem after landing and that was the last time that happened. I now make sure after washing around the stall warning tab that it moves freely.

I just replaced one of mine, second one in 7 months. Aircraft Spruce sells them about $100 with shipping, ALCOR 86252. I would only replace the CHT probe that’s not working, very easy to replace if doing it yourself. As far as the tach goes I found that replacing the connectors on the three wires coming from the left mag solved my problem with a flickering tach. The plug in connectors are located on the left side aft bulkhead. PM me if you’d like.

The Ovations have 2 static drains, one under the left wing close to the fuselage the other is located on the bottom of the fuselage left side aft of the wing by your access panel.

The one thing I’ve learned when landing my O2 is never think about using the breaks until you get the flaps up. When I had my M20J I used aerodynamic breaking with the control wheel pulled all the way back with the flaps down and apply the breaks, never had any problems with flat spots.

My M20R with the 310 hp conversion does the same thing and I have a K&N air filter. I think it’s sucking in so much air that it opens up the alternate air door. The alternate air box is located on the pilot’s side in front of the fire wall.

I just bought one from Aircraft Spruce for my M20R with the G1000 for $95.90. It was an ALCOR 86252 if that helps.

The plastic wing tip lenses will deform if the recognition lights are left on for to long. I had to replace mine, so the moral of the story I don’t use the recognition lights.

Jeff, I hope you don’t need a servo. I had to replace my roll servo last year and Stec didn’t have any in stock, it took at least a month to get and it wasn’t to much fun to replace either.

Jim, I also found another way to get a better Bluetooth connection on your iPad If you still have an intermittent connection after installing the plexiglass door. Start your airplane up and switch on your avionics master (my avionics comes on automatically with the G1000’s) if you don’t see traffic right away on ForeFlight I go to my settings, Bluetooth you’ll probably see that your GTX345R is NOT connected. Next turn your Bluetooth off then back on and tap on your GTX345R to reconnect. Please let me know after you’ve flown a few times that you are still receiving a good Uninterrupted Bluetooth signal and if you are I will remove the Mylar also.

As far as I know there are NO flight restrictions on the use of my factory A/C, 2005 M20R. I live in Florida and think it’s great, taxi, take off, landing and at low altitudes.

I check to make sure that the baggage door is locked before each flight.

I have an O2 with the IO-550G with 310hp and have the same fuel flow and use the same oil. I take-off with 2700 RPM, rotate, gear up, flaps up and within a minute I pull the prop back to 2500 RPM. I climb out at 700 fpm and that seems to keep my #5 cylinder (my hottest cylinder) CHT at or below 375 degrees, I try not to exceed 375. All that and I’m climbing out at 135+ kts.

That looks like a low vacuum light was installed, if you ever had a stand-by vacuum system installed that worked off of manifold pressure. If I remember correctly when I had the system installed in my 201 the warning light came with it.

I always switch batteries after every shut down.

I’ve got A/C in mine with the 310 conversion and living in FL. I think it’s great. A couple of years ago I was flying at 5500 ft. with 2 people don’t remember the OAT but I was down in FL. and got 197 kts with everything firewalled, only held it there for 1 or 2 minutes . I might have been able to get 1 or 2 more kts. if I held it there longer. So I don’t think the belly scoop makes that much of a difference.

About 25 yrs. ago I remember Mario Andretti brought his Jetstar into ISP for some work N500MA.

I have a 345R and ForeFlight on my iPad and what I do is I go into my settings and turn Bluetooth OFF before start up. Once you start the engine and turn on your avionics master give it a few seconds then go to settings, turn on Bluetooth you’ll see your 345 and just hit connect. Try that it works for me.

My A&P found the same cracks in 2 of my cylinders about 3 yrs. ago and he’s been keeping and eye on them with no change in more than 300 hrs. and I also have a 550G.

The tach in the G1000 can be changed through the software. The software needs to be changed from an O2 to a O3 and that will give you 2700 RPM.

What is the N number. I sold my 1980 M20J to someone in Sanford about 4or 5 years ago? You can PM me if you want.

I faced the same problem when I had my 1980 M20J, I had a couple of Small sealant repairs made 20 years later and thought that was the end of my leaks and got the plane repainted. Shortly after the new paint job I developed another fuel leak and brought it to Wet-Wingologists in Ft. Lauderdale and had Emerson reseal both wings and he did a great job with a good guarantee. I was lucky the leaks didn’t do any damage to the new paint. Long story short I would have the wings resealed before you get it repainted.