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Found 33 results

  1. I just got my plane back from Annual, It ran perfectly beforehand and no squawks going in. (A little history ... Converted the engine to Ovation 3 (310hp) at last annual – Only engine change required is increasing prop governor speed and increasing fuel flow. Anyway as I said it ran perfectly for a whole year.) Nothing was found to be an issue during annual except the Spark plugs were apparently out of tolerance and replaced. They ran engine afterwards and everything was OK. Went down today to fly it for the first time since signed off a couple days ago. Engine running rough. #1 cylinder not making power. They checked it out and thought fuel injector nozzle to cylinder #1 was getting plugged (as part of the annual they ultrasonically cleaned all injectors). Recleaned the injector put back together. The issue then changed to Cylinder #2, Repeated the process, Recleaned put back together. The issue change to Cylinder #3, Repeated the process, Recleaned put back together. The issue changed back to Cylinder #1, - They tried with the old plugs back in; They rechecked magneto timing - no change. (BTW The Magneto is hundreds of hours away from it’s 500hr overhaul) They disconnected and checked the fuel going to each cylinder using the fuel pump and reported has debris?? They think a gasket or something might be disintegrating in the Fuel manifold that sits atop the engine. That’s as far as they got today. (BTW The spark plugs were changed from Champion fine wire to Tempest, but they’re convinced it’s the fuel side of combustion that’s causing the problem.) Questions: 1) Is this just incredibly bad and coincidental timing – (first time check out after annual – running fine beforehand) or could it be related to annual. To my knowledge the only part of the annual that involves the fuel system is cleaning the fuel screens and Injectors. 2) Does it make sense to jump from Cylinder to cylinder? 3) Any other thoughts as to cause, or what’s gone on would be appreciated Thanks in advance Roger
  2. So, a friend has gotten me interested in looking at certificating the Chevrolet LS3 engine for airplanes (or one of the 4th generation LT engines). Looking into it, there are a lot of advantages. I am not afraid of the certification process. Thoughts? PS. Yes, I know about the Porsche engine/airplane (M20L)
  3. Ovation owners, how does the top of the cowl line up with the spinner on the 310 HP Harzell 3 blade prop combination ? Wondering about the engine mounts and how much difference between new and old support. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks
  4. I recently flew with the manufacture to learn the procedures they recommend for proper engine break-in.
  5. Hello all, I'd like to pick your brains on a problem which has been driving me slightly miffed in recent weeks. I own my C model since 2009 and since then, usually start up was never a problem at all. Our procedure as set was always the same: - Electrical fuel pump on, till pressure shows, then off. - Priming 6-8 times with the throttle (cold engine) or 2-4 times (warm engine) - Engage starter and the engine would run. Since this year, start up has become a real pain. I've had to leave the airplane two times unable to start it, had to request mechanic assistance (ext power) twice more and I keep getting feedbacks from the other pilots. The engine turns, most of the time fires shortly but when you disengage the starter,it stops. In subsequent tries,it either never ever fires again or again just once or twice. What we found is that during the start up one has to pump vigorously with the throttle, which sometimes leads to a start. 2nd and 3rd start after the engine has run is unproblematic, even though even then pumping the throttle is required. In two unsucessfull attempts, the engine definitly was drowned, with fuel leaking on the front tyre. Two of the pilots report they have NO problems at all and think we are too stupid simply. Well, it's possible,but we follow the exactly same procedure (one of them filmed it) and have no success. As I said, the previous years we never had any problem whatsoever. Maintenance has looked at it and found nothing wrong, even though they also were unable to start the engine at least once. They report, plugs and magnetoes are fine, carburettor as well. My feel is the engine does not get enough fuel the first start, then finding a good mix for starting in following attempts is difficult. Any idea on where to start looking would be appreciated. We have a major problem with this, as our airport has departure slots and we can't afford dicking around with the engine for hours every time we want to go flying. I also feel this is not how a standard O360 A1D should behave. Thanks a lot.
  6. I am sure this subject has come up before, but I can't find the details needed. Many publications discuss the cost of an engine overhaul, different options, different suppliers, etc. Yet I would like to know how much more the aircraft owner has to put aside for the items typically not included. And numbers from within the last 5 or max 10 years are of course more interesting than older bills. Consider your IO-360 has lasted 30 years and never failed, and now it's time for major work. Engine accessories are almost always included or listed, but what about the following firewall forward items which aren't any younger : engine mount - inspection and repair, exhaust - new (if welding isn't economical), oil cooler, and the related cost of labor, shipping, taxes, etc. Anything one cannot simply postpone until it really requires replacement or overhaul because that would come even more expensive. Any real data / bills / experience on this very welcome. It is clear that the cost will vary a lot from case to case. Would could be a worst case ?
  7. Hey there everyone! I’m having a weird issue with my bravo. I’m having EGT fluctuations that happen in all cylinders at the same time. They first cool down 20-50 degrees then back up 60-70 and back to where they were when I leaned the engine out. This is in level cruse flight without any adjustments to the prop, mixture or throttle. My suspicion is the engine driven fuel pump. The only other correlated indication I’ve noticed is the fuel PSI gauge which will flicker from it’s normal cruise level of 40psi to 36 or so for just a second. Shortly thereafter the EGTs start their rollercoaster. Common sense tells us the engine is getting less gas during the rise and falls because of the rise and falls of the EGT and the correlated fuel PSI indication makes me believe the engine driven fuel pump is on its way out. I’ve attached a video of one of the more tame fluctuations I’ve managed to catch on video. Side note: I’ve had a mechanic check this out and I was told “I’ve never heard of an engine driven pump going out before” they didn’t find anything else relevant. Any help at all 20906550-E036-4103-9F85-CC15F5E65322.MOV is greatly greatly appreciated! 20906550-E036-4103-9F85-CC15F5E65322.MOV
  8. On the E the oil lines from the cowl mounted cooler both route under P/N 620014-3 "Oil Line Shield", which shield the lines as they pass under the exhaust headers above them. When I pulled the lower cowling, there were two rubber lined hose clamps up under the shield attaching the hoses to it. I cannot find any mention of those clamps in the manuals or in SBs. Any guidance on these. Abashedly, I also cannot remember how they were attached and don't want to bother reattaching them if they aren't required.
  9. I suspect my engine is sagging and this causing the cooling issues I'm having. So, is it shims or is it mounts? How do you evaluate the state of the mounts? Since I just replaced the donuts (and my gawd how my landings/ground handling have improved), it may be 'time' for the mounts.
  10. So, I am now understanding why I have had high cylinder temps with my engine. The baffle seal is completely shot and I am beginning to wonder if the lower portion has ever been changed (see photo). The top seal is a patchwork of various black and orange pieces so while we are working a cylinder issue I've decided to replace the seals. Does the front lower cowl need to come off completely to get at the row of rivets, or is there some trick (like a partial removal)? Thanks!
  11. All American Aircraft recently sold a Mooney Rocket with an engine rebuilt by Dugosh. Dugosh replaced the Contnental cylinders with ECI cylinders. Are ECI cylinders better or more durable than the Continental cylinders?
  12. I had a case of severe morning sickness a week ago, see attached JPI graph, the log was started about 30 seconds after start, it appear to only be running on 1 cylinder, which is rather impressive. I've had this before but it's always been on cold mornings After it recovered everything was normal, I flew it for another 20 hours and engine ran great, I put in some Marvel Mystery Oil and flew for an hour today, then changed oil, any other preventive measures I can do?
  13. I just bought a used 1979 turbocharged 231 mooney. I need to replace the engine, however I do not want to put another turbo CHARGED engine in. Can I do this? Also i would prefer a Lycoming engine instead of a Continental.
  14. I am upgrading my two year old JPI EDM 830 system to a EDM 900 Primary. (My Mooney 262 has the TSIO360MB4B engine). The system for sale includes everything available for monitoring a turbocharged engine - EGT 6 Probes, CHT 6 Probes, 1 TIT Probe, Volts, Shock Cooling, LOP/ROP JPI Exclusive Leaning Mode, Fuel Flow (USED, Remaining, GPH Endurance, GPS Destination), 201 fuel flow transducer - fuel pump type, RPM, MAP, Oil Temperature/Pressure, OAT probe,% HP, Power Connector, All required harnesses, EZTrendsData recording, 100 hrs Download USB 1 GB Memory Stick, Selectable Positions for Linear gauges, Manual and all other paperwork. The wiring harness will be new and untrimmed. A new unit with all these options is $2660 at Spruce plus tax/shipping. I would like to get $ 1800, shipping included. Check, cash, cc accepted. Thanks, Jeff 208-720-2506 flyingfalconpllc@gmail.com
  15. 3,500 hours of flying and it finally happened. First "real" engine issue in 25 years of flying. Happened over big mountains just outside McCall, Idaho with the whole family on board too. Worst part was, I didn't even realize it happened until the next day! We went to KMYL (McCall) for a $100 hamburger lunch on a beautiful winter day. 1968, M20F with IO-360A1A. 800 hours SMOH (1998), top overhaul with rebuilt cylinders after prop strike (prev owner) in 2004. Flight down there was normal. Departed about 2pm so the kids (1 year old twins) were right at nap time for the way home. Chosen route was up the Little Salmon river valley over highway 95. There are dirt strips about 40 miles apart in the canyon, but there's basically nowhere to land northwest of KMYL for the first ~30 minutes of flight. Leveled off at 8,500' below a scattered deck and leaned for 20 LOP. Maybe a minute or two later I noticed my speed decreasing and autopilot telling me to trim up. I had lost ~10 knots from normal cruise. First thought was that I set the mixture too lean and was at too low a power setting. Rich mixture, surge forward pretty good, reset to 20 LOP and everything seemed fine. Then I decided to climb above the clouds, adjusted mixture, climbed, reset mixture and it happened again. Huh, interesting. By now we were 30 minutes from home and I didn't really think anything was wrong. Flew along ROP for a while, checked TAS and it was normal, JPI 930 showed normal engine indications. Reset LOP and noticed a very slight vibration. Actually thought about looking into balancing my prop. Landed uneventfully. Thought about the flight and didn't feel right... took off the cowl the next day and checked for leaks around the injectors. Everything seemed normal. Downloaded from EDM 930... didn't like that at all. Pictures below. Watch #3 EGT after leaning. The last picture is right before the decent to landing. They are at a different time scale, so they look a little different, but clearly #3 EGT was not behaving. It was going above it's leaning "peak" and then by the end of the flight, it was pretty unsteady. It had only climbed about 100 degrees from peak and was not noticeable on the EDM unless I had written down the peak values which I don't think anyone does. The fluctuating EGT wasn't noticeable without staring at the EDM which I didn't do. Sent the data to my mechanic and put it in the shop the next day. #3 exhaust valve was shot. The valve guide is worn excessively and the valve and guide have deposits causing it to stick and wobble. While he had that side of the engine apart, looked at #1 and it was not as bad but going down that road. Pulling 2 cylinders to send to an engine shop for new valves and redo the guides, etc. $$ Ouch. Oil samples done at each change and all normal (last one in December). Thankfully caught early enough that it didn't stick and fail catastrophically over the mountains. Any idea what causes this? Am I doing something to the engine to cause it? I guess I'd just feel better if I could see this coming a little before it starts affecting power. Don't want to have any power loss in the mountains, on takeoff, high DA, or all three! Appreciate your thoughts...
  16. I'm looking to buy a nice 231 that has a run out engine and factored this cost into the purchase. Besides a reman engine from Airpower or major overhaul, what would good long term viable new engine options for the TSIO-360-GB1 that the plane currently has in it. It's a nice Mooney with great updated avionics and flies smooth.
  17. Lycoming IO 360 A1A 200HP Fuel Injected 1300 SMOH $13,000 Complete John 386-467-0095 or 815-210-2675
  18. I'm looking at the log books for a lat(er) model J and something is amiss. In the engine logbook, there are consistent annual inspections with 200-300 hours put on the engine in each year. However, there are no other entries between the annuals...no oil changes, no "oh fixed a little item here", nothing... Either this is the best running IO360 that has never had a hiccup, or there are missing entries. If you were looking at the airplane for your own, would you a.) Run away!, b.) Pre-buy the snot out of it, perhaps including some engine dis-assembly?, c.) Other. I'm not emotionally invested into any of it...still looking to buy my 'first airplane last'.
  19. I have owned N1084L, a 1997 J for 10+ years. TTAE 1806. Oil consumption has gradually increased from 9 hrs/qt to 4. Regular oil analysis has never shown high metal levels. I changed oil after returning from flying in Caravan to KOSH, and found small metal flakes in filter for first time. With 20 year Lycoming limit for Rebuilt for Overhaul Price Proram coming up (June 2016) looks like it's time to go ahead & order rebuilt IO360A3B6. I haven't received latest oil report yet. Alan Millet
  20. So since it appears that this is another one of those "All In" Annuals,We (Charlie, my local IA and I) decided to change the old engine mounts (With the approval of the banker - AKA wife) this year. "May as well", was my answer since we are topping the engine. The old and new mount from the lower right are side by side in the pics. Not only had it twisted because it wasn't installed aligned with the dial pin on the frame, but it was over-torqued and had completely collapsed. A picture is worth a thousand words, but all I could say after we removed these was "Wow".We also have engine angle pics before and after that I'll post when the new cylinders and baffling are installed.As an aside, anyone thinking about replacing or overhauling a Lycoming cylinder, give Airpower a call. Their prices are unbelievably good on factory new as well as Superior, and ECI kits. Considering that Factory new came with new piston pins and caps the price was minimal in terms of difference. Add in a 2yr warranty parts and labor on Lycoming cylinder kits with unlimited hours and it was a no-brainier. Having peace of mind that the Cam is in impeccable condition, I figured it to be worth a topping now to guarantee running to TBO and maybe a little extra if condition permits. I'll follow up throughout the break in process with how the MVP 50 reports and how all develops for anyone interested.I will say that this is the most extensive owner assist work that I have ever done, and I certainly have a renewed respect for A&Ps :-).
  21. I'm looking for some group input. The background: 1975 M20F, IO-360-A1A, 2810 TT, 900 TSMOH. Engine is sagging, starter does not touch, but the alignment is not correct. Engine mounts are roughly 30 years old. The current part is #J-9613-12 (all four), as listed in the engine logs. Here's the question: Is there anybody out there that has looked at the parts manual (concerning engine mounts) and picked up on the idea of there being TWO different mounts specified? As in, since the engine "hangs" from the mount, the upper mounts are under a diffent stress load than the bottom mounts. A different mount is specified for the different locations. Part II: Is this a big enough question to lose sleep over? Apparently, it wasn't for the previous owner, and I haven't seen anything on this prior (and YES, I did search). So, what does the group say??? Oldnotdead
  22. To the more knowledgeable: I have slow oil leak in my 20 C that drives me nuts. I have oil in the front gear housing, on bot sides of the gear well and trailing along the bottom of the fuselage. My oil pressure is stable, the oil usage seems normal too. Here is what I have done: First, I though it was a problem from the retrofit angled oil spin adapter (ECI), so the gaskets at the accessory housing were changed. This did not seem to make any appreciable difference, so I sprayed the engine down, ran it according to piloto's instruction (thanks man !) and checked. Small leakages from three of the oil return hose connectors, and a runner on the back of the oil pan. Had all four rubber return hose connectors changed, as well as a new pan gasket installed. Run-up be mechanic confirmed no leak. Flew it four two hours and again had oil in the front gear housing (less than before however). Now I am lost for an explanation. The engine seems dry. Is there any possibility that the oil comes from the breather line and is somehow ducted into the gear housing, giving the impression of an engine oil leak ? Puzzled Norbert
  23. Looking for an engine lycoming IO360 A3B6D for my 1990 M20J MSE
  24. My plane will be down approx. 3 weeks in August to get the panel redone. I'm wondering how much I should do to protect the engine (O-360-A1D) during this time. I've had the plane 6 months, and the engine has 670 hrs SMOH in 2000 with new Millenium cylinders.. It sat some early its its life and then was flown more regularly before I got it. Pulling #1 jug off after I bought it (IRAN related to an exhaust valve guide) showed some shallow pits on the cam but no spalling of cam or lifters. I've flown weekly since I've gotten it - 70 hrs total with 3 oil changes, and it's done great- runs smooth, no hint of ferrous or nonferrous metal in filter (examined visually, cutting and running magnet, soaking in solvent and running through coffee filter), good oil analyses, using 1 quart every 10 hrs consistently. So I'm really starting to trust this engine to be with me for a while, and I don't want to blow it by letting it sit. But i also don't want to spend 1K for the top of line engine dehydrator. This weekend I changed the oil and filter (Aeroshell 100W + Camguard) and this oil will have <10hrs on it when it goes to the shop. I'm not aware of any benefit to storage oil over this. Should I put dessicant plugs in tail pipe and breather? Lower spark plugs? Top plugs as well (more of a pain)? Can the intake be blocked off? Various other commercial dehydrator products? What's an effective middle ground here, without going over the top? It will be down for <1 month most likely. Do avionics shops ever tend to the engine this way during long jobs?
  25. As my starter is somewhat lacking performance, i want to replace it during the annual with another. I am leaning towards Hartzell X - drive or E - drive, but there seems to be a fitting issue with them (specifically the E -drive). My bird is an M 20 C 1964. Unfortunately I cannot go over and look, as we are currently on two different continents. But as I would like to pre-order this from Spruce so I can keep my downtime to a minimum during my leave and get some more flying done. Same question applies to the Tach cable. i know it is kinked and needs replacement, but is it 36 Inch long or 46 Inch. Again stock M20 C. Any input welcome. Cheers Norbert