buddy

When I fly VFR to the Bahamas I file using ForeFlight and always use flight following (therefore you have your transponder code). I open and close my flight plan in the air with FSS. Don’t forget eAPIS and get your customs decal. I do the same for the return trip. The last I heard adding ADCUS in the remarks doesn’t work, I always call customs at KFPR before I leave the Bahamas and let them know what time I’ll be landing. Fort Pierce, Treasure Coast International is the “airport of entry” that I’ve been using. The phone # for customs is 772-461-1733 10:00am-6:00pm and I believe you can leave them a voicemail.

Well I’m hoping the problem is solved. I brought the plane over to Daytona Aircraft Service and they swapped my #1 and #2 GIA-63W boxes around and with a little button pushing reprogrammed the G1000. I’ve taken a couple of flights since then and have had no com issues at all on both my #1 and #2 coms. Before I brought the plane over to the avionics shop I reracked the boxes myself to no avail so I’m not really sure why the problem went away. So for an hours labor it might be worth a try.

I have never seen that message and I believe I have the same software version.

I’m having the same problem with mine only it’s my #2 and it’s transmit only otherwise comes in clear. Both of my antennas are on top and my #2 is aft but as far as I can tell it’s not an antenna problem. I called an avionics shop and they said they never heard of that problem and suggested I switch the 2 GIA’s around to see if it follows the problem. Well I tried that and as I thought you have to reload the software. My next stop is a good avionics shop, find out which box controls my #2 comm and send it to Garmin for repair.

I’ll buy them, I’m in the Creek so let me know where and when I can pick them up. Give me a call 631-885-1253. Buddy

The small “O” ring should also be lubricated with a lube compatible with oxygen.

I have the same problem, I replaced the fill port and ran a new line from the fill port to the tee with new fittings because I could not see well enough if the connection was leaking down around the fill port. I also pulled the seats out so I could pull the panel up far enough to spray around the gauge and the fitting at the gauge but didn’t see any bubbles. You may want to try replacing the O ring on the fill line that goes into the tank regulator. The only thing I wasn’t able to do was to make sure that the boys at the factory didn’t put a splice in the line that runs from the tee to the gauge. So for now I just loosen the fill line (the one with the O ring) at the regulator until it pulls out of the regulator far enough to stop the O2 from leaking out and I use the cannulas will an altitude compensating gauge with a floating ball that tells me the O2 is still flowing from the tank to the cannulas. The problem with this is you will have to tighten the supply line fitting at the regulator to check the psi in the tank by looking at the gauge in the cabin. If you want PM me with your number and I may be able to explain it a little better.

If the Stec 30 is similar to the Stec 55X you will need something like a jewelers screw driver to make the adjustment through a small hole on the autopilot. You will need to make the adjustments in the heading mode, probably best while your flying so you can see how it tracks in the nav mode after making the adjustments.

Taking of on RWY 28 on a dark hazy night you can lose the horizon pretty quickly, I always went right on instruments after take off.

My oil distributor, Fornell Oil told me not to mix oil when I went from Aeroshell 100 Plus to Phillips 100 AW.

The A/C compressor that I removed from my Ovation was a Sanden 505 24V and that’s exactly what I replaced it with. I guess I should’ve taken a picture of the old compressor that I removed because the stamp on the case said Sanden 505 and that’s exactly the one I replaced it with, just have to make sure it’s 24V. The compressor on mine was a single pulley NOT a double pulley.

I used rivnuts on my 201 and they worked great, easy to install.

I’ve got a 2005 with the G1000 and Stec 55X and couldn’t be happier. I installed the WAAS when it certified by Mooney in 2016 and had the PFD sent to Garmin twice once for auto back lightning (this can be set manually) and once because I couldn’t set the Baro in the PFD (this can be also set using the MFD). The Stec A/P was sent out twice, the 2nd time was under warranty and I had to replace the roll servo. I guess that’s not to bad for being 16 yrs old.

I had to replace my compressor a couple of years ago and it’s just an aftermarket compressor used on several different aircraft. The compressor is a Sanden 505 24V and it’s cheap, I payed $235. Your lucky Mooney was out of stock they probably would’ve wanted around 3K. I believe you can buy it on eBay, I think mine was bought from a company in Las Vagas. Do yourself a favor and remove the A/C belt before your next flight because you’ll just contaminate your whole system if it isn’t contaminated already. I had to clean my system out. PM me if you’d like with your number if you have any questions.

I just renewed mine, 2005 M20R, 5800 TT, 3600 Mooney time and only 225K hull value 3.7K up 7% from last year. Old Republic.

I’m also using a K&N air filter with the 310 hp. I don’t think the alternate air door opens very much just enough to turn the light on.

When getting these erroneous readings did you notice anything going on with your altimeter or VSI (static system problem)? I’ve had to send my S-TEC 55X autopilot back to them and was happy with the work they performed but it was not for the same problem your having. I believe the factory will also install any upgrades that may have come out since original.

McKee Avionics is located at San Marcos, TX.

If I remember correctly it was just under 30K but had estimates of up to 50K. I had Brian at McKee Avionics do the work and was very satisfied.

When I had my 1980 M20J with the century 41 auto pilot it seemed all my pitch problems lead back to a pick off the attitude indicator. When I had it in altitude hold every once in a while it would pitch up and I had to disconnect the A/P. I flew the airplane out to Century and they repaired repaired the problem and told me it was a pick off the attitude indicator. Years later I had the same problem and after about a month of trouble shooting at the avionics shop they finally sent out the attitude indicator for repair and that solved my problem. Not many shops work on the A/P. PM me with your phone number and we can talk.

I upgraded my 2005 M20R with the legacy G1000 to WAAS in 11/2016 and also removed the GTX33 and replaced it with the GTX345R.

I’ve always found Jeppesen support very helpful if I ever had a problem and I’ve been using them for over 40 yrs.

This happened to me when I had my M20J, the connections in back of your master switch are all single wire spade connectors. I had to get under the instrument panel with a long thin screw driver and push each individual female spade connector in back of the master switch in (they sometimes start to get loose or a little corroded over the years). This should solve your problem, your not the first one this has happened too. If you want PM me with your phone number and I can probably explain it to you a little better.

After each flight I pull the dip stick out a few inches and leave it out for about 15 min. allowing the condensation to escape.