RobertE

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About RobertE

  • Rank
    Lives Here
  • Birthday 07/28/1951

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St. Helena, CA
  • Model
    M20J

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  1. Boy, this is a tough, suspicious group! I think the poster just wanted to put in a good word for an excellent app. I, too, am going to speak up for FlashPass and will add a funny story. Last summer I flew from California to Alaska via British Columbia and the Yukon. While in the Yukon I ran across an elderly gentleman in his Cessna 120 who had saved for his trip from Wisconsin to Alaska for, he said, a decade. But there he was, stuck in Watson Lake for 2 days because he couldn’t figure out how the heck to complete the standard eApis form to be able to cross into the US at Northway, Alaska. He had spent, without exaggeration, 48 hours trying to get it to work and by the time I met him he was genuinely considering turning around, giving up on his decade-long dream. Well, I was then using FlashPass so I set him up on that app and 10 minutes later he accomplished what he earlier found impossible. To see his joy you would have thought I blessed him with eternal youth.
  2. You might call the folks at Lasar with this question. When I needed a new exhaust system about two years ago my intention was to go with power flow. I happened to mention that to the then GM of Lasar who said they provided the test aircraft and found no performance difference. That’s surprising to me (which is why you ought to call them to be sure I wasn’t talking to someone who just had an unreasonable gripe with them) but his comment was enough to discourage me from purchase. It doesn’t make much sense to me, though, why a system that demonstrably works on other aircraft wouldn’t on ours.
  3. I don’t know if my experience is either relevant or helpful, but about 6 months ago my trim quit working. I figured it was a bad switch but it turned out the switch was simply slightly out of adjustment. The micro switch just needn’t to be adjusted, not replaced. Works fine.
  4. I tried to find old threads but couldn’t. How do I search for those? Nothing showed up when I searched on “loose stabilizer” or “play in stabilizer” but I’d sure like to find any earlier commentary.
  5. For years when manually moving my left horizontal stabilizer up and down I can feel a slight bit of play - less than the .10” specified as a problem in the maintenance manual. Anyway, I wonder if I can pose two questions. 1. How common is this? Do others observe the same thing? 2. If ever it gets bad enough to repair, what’s the fix? (Interestingly, there is no play whatsoever in the right stabilizer so I’m guessing there must be separate attachment points for each stabilizer.) Thanks.
  6. Well, Andy, thanks for posting that picture. I’ve been through that front gate many times and am counting the days.
  7. It will be interesting to see how this plays out. On the one hand, ForeFlight surely crushed Jeppesen’s subscription service for GA pilots (I know I dropped my CA only service the month I subscribed to FF), on the other it’s not as if there are no competitors out there. My guess is prices will go up but added functionality via integration with Jeppesen that will make it reasonable. We’ll see, I guess.
  8. Your are The Man, Scott. Thanks for that comprehensive answer. Are you the guy teaching the Pilot Workshop Skew T diagram reading class I began yesterday?
  9. Well, that’s a good question. I’ve seen those numbers a couple of places but +5 C as the beginning of the danger area just magnifies what I see as the problem. Is it genuinely reasonable to be unwilling to enter a cloud at 5 C, which is about 41 F? Assuming, of course, no special circumstances like a cold soaked aircraft that is below freezing. i guess I’m looking for honest rules to live by, stripped of any cushions for measurement error or other circumstances.
  10. Thanks for all the answers. It sort of confirms the problem with suggesting icing is possible at +2C. If I’ve been up at 20k feet and the fuel and airframe are, say, -15 C and I enter a cloud I can get iced up at +5C or pretty much any temp, I think. Still makes me wonder the magic of all that advice “beware of icing from +2 to - 20 C”.
  11. I’m sure we’ve all heard what is usually described as the temp range at which airframe icing becomes possible but what I don’t understand is why that range includes a temperature that is warmer than freezing. Is that to allow for possible measurement error? Or, maybe, the lower pressure (and, thus, cooling effect on that air) of the air above the top surface of the wing? If the outside air (well, to be precise, my airframe) is +.5 C I’m not really at risk of icing am I? Thanks.
  12. I’m afraid I didn’t check compression. My expectation would be that compressions would be normal, but I didn’t take that step. I can tell you that at 75 hours and still burning oil I was absolutely certain I had a problem, but, no. It cleared up at 100 hours.
  13. I inspected the plugs on each cylinder every 10 of 20 hours. Plugs in three of four cylinders showed the indications of normal combustion but for 100 hours plugs in one of the cylinders showed evidence of an oil-rich environment. To do this, of course, you need a torque wrench and a bunch of new gaskets but that’s a small expense in light of the $30K or so just spent for an overhaul.
  14. I’ve broken in 3 engines. Two responded normally (everything stabilized within 10-20 hours) but on the third it took fully 100 hours for the oil consumption in one cylinder to stabilize. By about 50 hours I figured I must have glazed that cylinder but, no, it was all fine within another 25. So don’t give up hope if you happen to experience the same oddity.
  15. I may have been one who commented in another thread regarding bending lexan or polycarbonate (one has a slightly higher melting point than the other - google has the answer). Anyway, I couldn’t bear to spend $120 for a replacement lens for $20 of material. The lense on my J model has a somewhat convex, complex shape. All you need to do is pull out the old one, use plaster of paris or some such material for mimic the shape, drape the flat material you previously cut and drilled to size over it and place it in the oven at a temp about 50 degrees cooler than the melting point. In about a half hour the material relaxes and conforms perfectly to the mold. Earlier I tried the same approach with a heat gun but got it too hot in places, which produced bubbling. Finally, whatever mold material you use will probably show cracks when dry. No problem, just fill in the cracks and sand it to a generally smooth finish. Also, if you have trouble using the old lens to produce the mold just start with a piece of material that can be sanded to produce the approximately proper convex shape. Close is good enough. For that mater, flat is good enough too if you don’t mind the gaps that are produced between the rim and the lens. As a recent retiree I’ve got plenty of time to do small, low payoff projects, so when I couldn’t approach my airplane without seeing that gap I used the previously described approach. I bet this approach would work for the more dramatic bend required for a leading edge light lens too.