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About squeaky.stow

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/24/1959

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  • Location
    Barrie ON, Canada CNV8
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  • Model
    M20K 252TSE

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  1. Try this: http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee.html
  2. Peter, Condolences from another freezing Canadian who has been in the same situation. I did lots of research and came to the following conclusions: Almost everyone seems to think Concorde will last longer than Gill but neither will last like a car or boat battery. I went with Concorde. There is fairly good scientific evidence that a desulphating battery minder will keep your battery in good shape longer, but very little evidence that a worn out battery can be restored with this method. Most of the restoration claims are just that - claims. Concorde insists that you should buy their very expensive minder because the much cheaper Canadian Tire versions (Wal Mart for you Americans) could damage their expensive batteries. I am skeptical about how accurate that claim is, but I didn’t want to take a chance so I bought a Battery Minder from Aircraft Spruce made specifically for my Concorde battery. I added a plug-in kit routed through the TKS service door and I plug it in after every flight. It shows the battery charge condition and I can always start on the first turn of the prop. Probably spent too much to be a true Mooney CB, but it gives me peace of mind. If you ever drop in to CNV8 for a $100 burger, send me a PM and we can share complaints about buying everything we need in US dollars! Mark
  3. The airplanes I have flown for a living have high levels of automation and system redundancy, so I feel quite comfortable flying in pretty lousy conditions. The airplane I fly for fun has much less of both of those things and I am a lot more picky about when and where I fly. I don’t think that’s because I am any smarter or better at risk assessment than someone who has only flown light singles, just more spoiled! Many years ago, just before my first PP night cross-country, my instructor gave me the following tips in the event of an engine failure. 1) Turn into wind 2) Slow to minimum-sink speed. 3) When you get near the ground, turn on your landing light. 4) If you don’t like what you see, turn it off again.
  4. Not sure how much changed between 1986 and 1998 M20Ks but on mine there are several cannon plugs in various locations between the gear handle and the gear motor. I had an intermittent gear problem that was eventually found to be one bad pin in one of these plugs, but it took a lot of gear cycles on jacks while playing around with the wiring and cannon plugs to figure it out. Mine was not exclusively a retraction issue; it would fail during extension as well, and the cannon plug that was bad was in the belly quite close to the gear motor so it was one of the easier ones to access. If you know for sure that it only occurs during retraction that may help to eliminate some of the cannon plugs. Wiring diagram should help to narrow that down. Nothing more frustrating than an intermittent fault! Good luck.
  5. My tank had been empty for over a year when I bought the plan and I had the same issue. The float sticks to the bottom of the tank. It’s not easy to get into the tank to pry it loose but it can be done. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly how as my AME did it. I have had no problem since then because I always keep fluid in the tank.
  6. My EDM 830 was moved from the right side of the panel to the left some time well before I owned it with an extension harness made and installed by a now defunct avionics shop in (I believe) Florida. I spent the first year of ownership trying to figure out why my OAT, CHTs and Oil Temp were grossly inaccurate. Eventually discovered that the extension was all made of standard copper avionics wire which is an absolute no-no for thermocouple leads. Replaced it with a custom extension from JPI and all was good. They will build you whatever length you want, with the right thermocouple leads and connectors and the price is quite reasonable. Mark
  7. Just went through the same thing. Contact Bob Weber at webairconsulting.com It’s a fairly easy and cheap to fix if it is the same problem as mine. The clue is that the autopilot works if you hold the switch in the on position but it won’t magnetically latch in place. Bob can talk you or your hangar fairy through it. Mark
  8. A quick endorsement for Savvy Analysis. (Is that allowed here?) As usual I ended up spending money trying to save money. Being too cheap to sign up for Savvy’s analysis service, I put in a new spark plug and had the leads tested. Didn’t help, but at least I have a good spare now. Broke down and paid for a year of analysis. Worth every penny. Paul quickly identified a probe issue and it turned out to be simply some damaged insulation on the #1 EGT. All EGTs now showing smooth and steady. It’s also nice to have the peace of mind that my engine data is being monitored for any trends or tell-tail signals that I would not be “savvy” enough to spot on my own.
  9. Thanks for this. I will get the plugs and harness checked ASAP.
  10. https://www.montaguebikes.com If you prefer full sized mountain or road bikes, this company makes a high quality range of folding bikes with standard sized frames and wheels. Two of them fit perfectly in my K and can be unfolded and ready to ride in less than a minute
  11. Plugs are Tempest Fine Wires with about 50 hours on them. Data rate was set to the minimum for the EDM 830 as per GAMI instructions. 1 second, I think. LOP mag check was done for close to 30 seconds each mag. Interestingly, the #1 EGT seems to smooth right out during the mag check. I will definitely be having a close look at the #1 plugs and wiring.
  12. Anyone care to speculate on what is happening with my #1 EGT? (Red trace) Did a GAMI sweep on May 26th. Here is the link: https://savvyanalysis.com/my-flights/1006777/6596b159-77cc-4efd-b944-8816ae00849b LOP Mag test starts at about 00:37 John-Paul at GAMI says my overall spread is .3 GPH. I only leaned to about 40 LOP as per GAMI recommendations, and it was still running quite smoothly there. Is that an EGT probe issue or is there more going on? EGT fluctuations seem to start once I get on the lean side of peak. If it was a bad probe, I would have thought it would be continuous. Here is a close up of one of the sweeps:
  13. Hi ESPN168, Not sure how far along you are in the plane search, but since you are Canadian I thought I would touch base. My 252 is based in Edenvale and if you are trying to decide between a J and K, I would be happy to show you mine and answer questions about the K model. I use mine to fly between here and New Brunswick, a little over 600 nm which it can do easily non-stop. I have the long range tanks, but rarely use them as it really limits my payload and I don’t like sitting in the plane for 5 hours or more. I love my 252 and planned to keep it forever, but my wife wants the security of a parachute so I am now looking for a Cirrus. The Mooney will be going on the market probably next spring. J and K are similar to fly but the ability to top most of the weather is a must-have for me. That’s where the turbo really shines. I will never own a normally aspirated airplane for that reason. The extra speed at altitude is just a bonus. If you plan to do Toronto to Caribbean flights, I would certainly recommend a turbo. Regards, Mark
  14. $3-4K Canadian = $2.2 - 3K US at today’s exchange rate. Just about what the OP paid. Sounds like our little free market is working just fine!
  15. How do you know if you bought a good airplane? If you are heading home AFTER a Don Maxwell annual and you are smiling!