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About squeaky.stow

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/24/1959

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  • Location
    Barrie ON, Canada CNV8
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  • Model
    M20K 252TSE

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  1. What are the opinions on Mooneyspace about the value of a VREF valuation? If you were considering buying or selling, would you pay for one? Do they accurately reflect market values? I know that Jimmy Garrison was planning to do his own version but I have not seen anything on that topic lately.
  2. My maintenance guy wants to buy a set of shock disk compression tools. Does anyone still sell these?
  3. What would make me interested in buying a second Aspen display? A 10” PFD/MFD display that competes with the impressive G3X capabilities AND will drive my legacy AP through my existing EA100, with my PFD1000 becoming my standby. Use the same “fill a 3.5” hole” concept for the processor and battery, but have it cover a six-pack worth of steam dials so that those that want to avoid cutting a new panel can reduce installation costs.
  4. As I understand from another thread, the G3X can provide nav and heading guidance to my KFC autopilot but not attitude, so the Aspen would only be providing attitude reference, just like the G5 does with the G3X/G5/GFC500 combo. The difference (and the problem, I think) is that my KFC computer can’t provide flight director cues to the G3X, only to the Aspen, so that would really mean that the Aspen would continue to be my primary, regardless of what I choose to label it. Unless there is a way to have the flight director guidance sent to the G3X so that I know what the autopilot is asking the airplane to do, and so that I only need to spin one heading or altitude bug, it doesn’t work for me.
  5. So it can be done! Good to know. Thanks
  6. I am not planning a GFC500. That’s the point of the question. If the KFC dies, I might have to go with with a GFC500, in which case I would pull and sell the Aspen and put in a G5, but I am trying to find a solution that will allow me to keep my perfectly working KFC for now.
  7. Question for the avionics experts out there. I am considering options for upgrading my panel. I like the G3X Touch but it won’t drive my KFC 200 autopilot and I really can’t financially justify throwing the KFC 200 away while it is still working perfectly well. Right now my Aspen drives the autopilot. Is there anything preventing me from installing a G3X as my primary display and leaving the Aspen PFD in as my backup and also to continue to drive the autopilot? If and when the KFC 200 dies, I can consider the Garmin GFC 500 at that time. Would that legal and would it work?
  8. Can any fellow MSers tell me where I can rent a set of landing gear shock disk compression tools in Canada? Also willing to rent from the US if the renter will ship to Canada. I know there are other ways to do this, but the Mooney tools look like the safest and easiest way if I can get my hands on them. Mark
  9. The FF had me curious. In my day two letters on the tail told you what base the fighter was from if you knew what it meant. The Eagle drivers from Langley had FF (First Fighters) on the tail. Vipers from Luke had LF. Tyndal was TY etc. Turns out this FF has an entirely different purpose. Look up Buzz Number in Wikipedia.
  10. Peter, Condolences from another freezing Canadian who has been in the same situation. I did lots of research and came to the following conclusions: Almost everyone seems to think Concorde will last longer than Gill but neither will last like a car or boat battery. I went with Concorde. There is fairly good scientific evidence that a desulphating battery minder will keep your battery in good shape longer, but very little evidence that a worn out battery can be restored with this method. Most of the restoration claims are just that - claims. Concorde insists that you should buy their very expensive minder because the much cheaper Canadian Tire versions (Wal Mart for you Americans) could damage their expensive batteries. I am skeptical about how accurate that claim is, but I didn’t want to take a chance so I bought a Battery Minder from Aircraft Spruce made specifically for my Concorde battery. I added a plug-in kit routed through the TKS service door and I plug it in after every flight. It shows the battery charge condition and I can always start on the first turn of the prop. Probably spent too much to be a true Mooney CB, but it gives me peace of mind. If you ever drop in to CNV8 for a $100 burger, send me a PM and we can share complaints about buying everything we need in US dollars! Mark
  11. The airplanes I have flown for a living have high levels of automation and system redundancy, so I feel quite comfortable flying in pretty lousy conditions. The airplane I fly for fun has much less of both of those things and I am a lot more picky about when and where I fly. I don’t think that’s because I am any smarter or better at risk assessment than someone who has only flown light singles, just more spoiled! Many years ago, just before my first PP night cross-country, my instructor gave me the following tips in the event of an engine failure. 1) Turn into wind 2) Slow to minimum-sink speed. 3) When you get near the ground, turn on your landing light. 4) If you don’t like what you see, turn it off again.
  12. Not sure how much changed between 1986 and 1998 M20Ks but on mine there are several cannon plugs in various locations between the gear handle and the gear motor. I had an intermittent gear problem that was eventually found to be one bad pin in one of these plugs, but it took a lot of gear cycles on jacks while playing around with the wiring and cannon plugs to figure it out. Mine was not exclusively a retraction issue; it would fail during extension as well, and the cannon plug that was bad was in the belly quite close to the gear motor so it was one of the easier ones to access. If you know for sure that it only occurs during retraction that may help to eliminate some of the cannon plugs. Wiring diagram should help to narrow that down. Nothing more frustrating than an intermittent fault! Good luck.
  13. My tank had been empty for over a year when I bought the plan and I had the same issue. The float sticks to the bottom of the tank. It’s not easy to get into the tank to pry it loose but it can be done. I’m afraid I can’t tell you exactly how as my AME did it. I have had no problem since then because I always keep fluid in the tank.