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That's a big one. It helps you know where to look as a conflict approaches, so that you can visually maintain separation as it gets closer. It'll help your scan skills, since you know something is there. Many times you still never see it, so it teaches you that depending on your eyes is not sufficient.

That’s a good summary, both ADSB and MK1 eyeball have limitations, however, they are complementary 99.99% of the times to scan and avoid, For instance, * I can’t scan traffic 5nm away using my eyes but ADSB tells me about these before they become a conflict * I can avoid slow departing C152 ahead of me using ADSB display but I can do it easily using my eyes when cleared for takeoff Sometimes both do not work (let’s call that 0.01% of the times), the “traffic too close than 1/2 mile and converging from an invisible corner”, one should not get into that situation where both ADSB screen and MK1 eyeball are limited? things works better if technology is used for early scan while eye is used to acquire target and avoid them visually (using tools as they are intended)

We did not have ipads at that company. The flight plan did have lat / longs printed by each way point and mag heading so you verified the fms heading and distance match the flight plan. This was especially important as we crossed the prime meridian as 10e could easily be put in as 10w and be in a different country. We also didn’t have gps only IRU’s so had to monitor the drift of each one to vor’s for correct position. I think we were one step up from having to use a sextant and star navigation.

Lubricating might work - for a while. Try to get the lube only on the joint around the knurled knob. If you get it on the ball it will just make matters worse. What happens is that people lube these things and the lube attracts dirt and gums them up. The real solution is to remove them, pull out the retaining spring wire, take them apart and clean the parts really well. BTW it’s the same with the eyeballs where the yoke shaft penetrates the panel. Don’t lube them.

This is just my philosophy and if you disagree I will not be the tiniest bit offended. I very much like the adsb traffic depiction technology. Today while climbing out of KAIZ heading southwest, the glare was terrible. I did not punt to the technology, as has been pointed out ad nauseum, the technology has limitations. But I do have a lovely bride sitting next to me that is very useful locating the little arrows on the iPad while I diligently continue my outside scan. This works well for me. She warns me of something and then I can scan in the appropriate direction. This has helped numerous times. At least 2 or 3 times just today. Frankly fellows, it’s just silly to pick one side or the other and then attack your fellow Mooney Spacer. The technology is a help, not a silver bullet, but it is a big help. Outside scanning is vital but it is not the enemy of adsb, and adsb is not the enemy of scanning.

Had an epiphany late last night and confirmed the issue today after replacing a failed aircraft jack. It seems that the main gear shock discs are worn out enough that the weight on wheel switch can make contact when the gear is in transition in flight and with a wind load pushing the main tires back. This is causing the gear to not fully retract after takeoff, but is not a problem when on jacks. While retracting today, pushing on the tire causes the gear to hault retraction. Time for some new shock discs…. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great writeup jlunseth thank you I think I can add to this discussion. I have an 81 231 with a GB, fixed waste gate, no intercooler, and 1961 hours since new. I purchased the AC in 2010 with 1200 hours and it had two cylinders swapped out in that time. In the 761 hours that I have put on it, I replaced one cylinder due to a crack in the exhaust port that started at a void in the aluminum that was the stress pint to start the crack. I have always taken off at full power and climbed to cruise altitude at full power. Full power adds the extra fuel to aid in lowers CHTs in the climb. If you pull back to a cruise climb you will not get the extra fuel added for cooling. Fuel is cheaper then and top overhaul. With in the first year, I installed a JPI830, and I believe that for my AC the 830 is required equipment. It is just too easy to overheat the engine with the single point factory installed instrumentation. Can you keep a GB cool enough to get to TBO, yes. How to do that, well you need a little luck that the previous owner didn't hurt it too bad. If there is an engine analyzer on now grab the historical data. The LBs have a larger opening throttle body and the front intake tubes from the throttle body to Cyl #5 & #6 are a different part number and i believe they have a larger ID. I believe that both larger IDs must be to reduce the restriction is air flow. I reason I say it this way is that I have heard on this forum that LB run cooler, and I have a list of the GB to LB differences, but I have never seen an explanation from continental as to why these changes make the LB run cooler. At overhaul mine will be converted to an LB. I am blessed that I am the A&P/IA for my 231 and I am an engine guy. Back in the day I have overhauled >500 GA engines and maybe 30ish TSIO-360s, I have set >1000 Continental fuel flows. To dos: Engine baffle seals must be tight with NO leaks. All cooling air must go through the cylinder fins. You can have these replaced with new seal material. Fuel flows must be set correctly by a mechanic that in experienced with fuel flows. To set the fuel flows correctly I first ultrasonically clean the fuel injectors to remove the buildup on the metering orifice, once the injectors are reinstalled, I pressurize the intake and exhaust system with the pressure side of a clean shop vac to look for leaks. I spray soapy water to find, and leaks and I fix any leak. Now I set the fuel flows with a reference to SID97-3G low unmetered fuel pressure to at 700rpm to 6.5 +/-.1psi and at full RPM(2700) and max MAP(~40ish) the metered fuel flow of ~26.7gpm and this gives me ~1400df TIT. You can see that the metered max fuel flow I use has the added 1GPM to aid in reducing the CHT in full power takeoff and climb. I first heard about the added 1GPM from kortopates on this forum. This is the best single change that I have made to keep my engine cool at high power. (SID97-3G TSIO-360-G, GB 700 2700 40.0 6.25 - 6.75 45.0 - 49.0 16.7 - 19.3 135 - 145 23.0 - 24.7) I would recommend that you use Savvy to review your engine data. They do a great job giving input as to what areas need to be looked at. Enjoy Jim

Complexity? A complete non issue. In heavy turbulence I turn the AP off because I can fly the airplane better than the autopilot, but the YD stays on because the multiple Garmin inputs* to it can better anticipate yaw changes than I can. To me one of the most important inputs is Lateral Acceleration, which is the rate of change of lateral motion. It's one thing to adjust to lateral motion. It's quite another to adjust to the rate of change of lateral motion. To me these multiple inputs make it better than other YDs with single inputs. *Per Garmin: "The yaw servo provides Dutch roll damping and turn coordination in response to yaw rate, roll angle, lateral acceleration, and airspeed."

Gee, Don. If money isn’t an issue and you want the best, I think Mooney still has an Acclaim Ultra they’d sell you.

The adjustment mechanism is so stiff that the whole housing is turning. Until you get it lubed, try holding the outer part with one hand and turning the adjustment with the other. At least that’s what I do in my K model when the adjustment is sticky. Maybe an Ovation is different???

Triflow

Well the Accu-Flite is eactly as I remembered from my first plane. Works fantastic in keeping the plane on course. I took two 2+ hour flights to Arkansas and the Brittain DG worked flawlessly. Once trimmed I found i could esentially fly hands off. No altitude hold needed. Without the Accu-Flight heading corrections resulted in altitude deviations, wash, rinse, repeat. LOVE THIS SYSTEM in a short-bodied Mooney. All in with installation it cost 2AMU's. I highly recommend this system if you are on a budget.

For my NA airplane I really don't worry about the 'red box' as I don't go LOP until I'm at cruise (>5,000 ft). So, if I want to 'slowly' go LOP by passing through peak I take my time Typically, though, I just perform the 'big pull' and set fuel flow; usually around 9 gph (<70%). Then check the CHTs are okay. Easy peasy. At low altitudes I'm usually just sight seeing and have the power nowhere near WOT (I'm below 75% to begin with), so I don't worry too much about the 'red box' in that situation either.

I used dry silicone spray so it doesn’t attract dirt.

That’s pretty much what I did; although I did lubricate it to clean it and then wiped if off. Works fine now.

I bought my airplane 32 years ago before my "perspective" change. I think my airplane may be one of the best equipped Mooneys in the fleet. The G1000 and G1000NXi are great products, but I like the flexibility of being able to modify my airplane as new and exciting technology comes to market. That can't be done with any G1000/NXi equipped airplane. I happily accept the 20 knot speed difference between my airplane and the Acclaims for the extra benefits I have with mine.

Also, it wouldn’t hurt to call Don Maxwell. He’s happy to answer questions and share his knowledge and he’s seen just about everything.

I agree that this is the core issue with a bunch of other people, but I'm not one of them. I'm fine with people not having it and not using it (when it is legal to do so). It's very effective and useful for its primary task, which is to reduce cost for the FAA, and it's marginally useful at best for the task of traffic separation for flights not controlled by ATC. At this point, I don't think there is enough data to measure if it has had any positive effect on safety.

If you use it sensibly it helps you look outside more, and more effectively. If it doesn't, you're not doing it right. Why do you use an airspeed indicator? Just use the feel and weight of the controls and the sound of the air flowing over the airplane! THE ASI IS A DISTRACTION! IT TAKES AWAY FROM YOUR AIRMANSHIP SKILLS! YOU SHOULDN'T EVEN HAVE ONE! Why do you use a radio at an uncontrolled airport? Aren't your eyes effective enough to see all traffic? STOP USING YOUR RADIO! LEARN TO LOOK OUTSIDE! EXERCISE YOUR SKILLS! YES, I'M KIDDING! You should use every tool available that improves your situational awareness. ADSB goes a long ways toward improving SI, but you can't just stare at it and people who think that's how it's used are trapped in cold darkness.

Im surprised you guys have issues running garmin’s navdata update app? I’m using a relatively up to date windows computer and Garmin’s installed update software (not the older web browser update). It works perfectly for GNS cards.

Thank you both! I'm sitting in SLC waiting for a delayed connecting flight with a maintenance issue. I thought, "Hey, I'll fly commercial so I don't have to worry about weather and timing!". Brilliant. Ah, the age of just-in-time, oversold, etc. Billboard could say: "If you were in a Mooney, you'd be there by now."

mine is 9 gph

service life yes, but capabilities, not really. esp given how most ga use these products direct direct done heck even flying approaches and complext flight plans, they function substantially the same. to be honest, i'm experiencing buyers remorse right now, i replaced my gns480 with a gnc 355a, it's prettier but except for flight plan transfer from the ipad, does nothing the old unit couldn't do. actually the old unit had a few more features( ignoring vor ). also consider the units will only be ran for maybe a thousand hours over 10 years, you could probably get buy with used while watching the new stuff go obsolete

Thanks Skip, I'll do the hose check on the storm window first. The wet spot is forward of the storm window and here was no water on the side panel or arm rest so I'm not initially hopeful. Although I guess if it's leaking it could be flowing down the side window behind the interior panel and following structure forward? I hadn't considered that until just now. I'll find out soon enough. Here's an older pic showing the exterior area of interest. The the windscreen skirt gap I referenced is just below and forward of the pilot window. There's no NACA scoop on my TLS/Bravo and I have no idea where the air comes from for the knee vent

I’ve always been able to get a new PC to run old s/w like that using compatibility mode. You can experiment with different setting but going straight to XP service pack 3 should work perfectly for this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe that the cylinders were the same from the factory. Most likely, they were also keyed to the same key as the ignition (at least that was on my previous Mooney). Many Mooney owners chose to change the original cylinders to aftermarket. My choice for my current plane is Medeco cylinder from Aircraft Security: https://aircraftsecurity.com/collections/all/products/asm20 Fits all Mooney airframes and the full set is relively reasonably priced (in aviation terms). Esily done, but you will need to remove the interior panels for bth doors. Good opportunity to check, lubricate and adjust the door latching mechanisms at the same time. The set comes with 2 keys, but ordering couple of extra keys may be a good idea. If you misplace the keys, the company will produce replacement keys on request but you will need the security lock code and it takes few days to get.

There's a significant difference in capabilities and expected remaining support and service life for the newer units than a 430. You get something for the extra money. That said, a 430 is a very capable unit when it is working.

If I understood your response correctly, you have isolated the problem to the door latch mechanism within the door itself. Most likely it was out of adjustment and extra force applied to the outside latch bent the rod as @Rick Junkin suggested above. This would fit your symptoms ss described. But, you’ll have to open it up to really see what’s going on.

I must say, last week I called Lasar and bought a toothbrush.

Here's an illustration from my Bravo service manual to help you visualize how the door latch works. I believe they're all pretty much the same.

Mine appear to be the same blank. Take the door and baggage cylinders to.any lock Smith, and they can be easily renewed to match the ignition key. Just don't mention "ignition" or "airplane" and they'll do it. The doors are just filing cabinet locks. "Can you rekey these two cylinders to match this key please?'

903-643-9902 dmaxwell@donmaxwell.com www.donmaxwell.com

Here's a silly question - with the door open, can you move the outside door latch easily through its full travel? This might help isolate where the problem is, and let you see what the side pin and top latch are doing.

I saw that. Looks like its primary purpose is to not ignite in the presence of oxygen, but seems like it’s pretty inert in general.

I see different numbers in climb vs cruise vs descent. If the cowl flap is fully open on landing the alarm will sound. Generally I see 20 in climb and 0 to 5 in cruse. This is over two mooneys. I did have elevated numbers for a bit and found a missing camlock on the front of the belly pan that was causing it.

I’ve found the best leak detection fluid is kids bubble solution for blowing bubbles. You can get a lifetime supply in the toy department at Walmart for less than $5

There's a recipe in the M20J SMM, but Spruce used to sell a mix that (iirc) is what we used. I can't find it on Spruce any more, you could still mix up the stuff in the SMM. Very mild soap could potentially be used and then rinse the crap out of everything when you're done, too, if you're careful where it goes. Edit: Spruce still sells this stuff, which looks like it'd be reasonably suitable (pH = 6.9-7.5). https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/detectorfluid08-12291.php

About 188, dropped to 177-179 when I went to 13.8 GPH D

Maybe it's the EFB that have delays when they display the info?My iPad with GDL39 for ADSB target does not show things exactly where Avidyne Ryan TAS show their transponder ModeS targets The specs are 2s for aircraft targets (5s for radar targets) are real-time and then one has to add extra processing in certified and uncertified displays, however, one has to take human limitations into account, which is the main thing here. There is no way you can get 2nm near any other traffic if you can process traffic info live and act on it in real-time (yet we always end up in those "close call" situations), if the traffic was visible on display 30nm away on ADSB, why he is now at 1nm? the only explanation: even with real-time info, the pilot still runs on slow processors At Mooney speeds, 10 seconds is already 0.7nm, assuming the other traffic is C172 not another Mooney !

Another accolade for the versatile flight profiles of our Acclaims.very similar to Kmillers post above. I left Wilmington De for a trip to Gulfport Ms with an intended stop at Moton Field for fuel. Also LOP. I have no clue how lean I WAS since I always lean towards a fuel flow, so after take off and a slight tailwind and at 12,000 ft for my passenger’s comfort I was flying at 30.5/2450 16.1 gph TIT 1560 CHT 265-300 it appeared I may make my trip without the stop. Went to 28/2450 13.8 GPH TIT 1560 still cool CHTs. Made the 1000 miles in 4.4 hours 20 gallons left in tank. Awesome versatile machine as mentioned no clue how LOP I was. When I adjust my mixture I go swiftly to 15 Gph and adjust to attain TIT and never worry about CHTs even wonder if there to cool. Couldnt make the trip in my Bravo I calculated my fuel savings over the Bravo to approximate $140 and saved about 45 minutes in flight, roughly 18 Gph vs 14. Gotta love our versatility. D

Using the RAM parts I listed above

Wow- you’re not fooling around! Now if we can only start printing out intake ducts to avoid the 35-week wait time from LASAR!

I created a Thingiverse account and added this as a "remix". It looks like I'll need to wait 48 hours for the link to be active as my account is brand new. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6830500 I'll update my original post as well.

When I was a green engineering intern, I had an idea for a 4 bar linkage. Using some cardboard cutouts and simple push pins, I brought my idea up to the Chief Engineer. We could move the push pins around to adjust the linkage length to get it to do what we wanted, and it was 1:1 scale. He was really happy about how stupid yet effective the cardboard method was. After some praise, he looked at me for a while, then looked at the cardboard. Then he looked at me again. His smile turned to a frown. "Tyler, where did you get this cardboard?" I shrugged and said I had found it downstairs in engineering, just a big box laying around. "Tyler, this the triple wall cardboard from GM. I know it sounds stupid, but this is a prototype packaging cardboard that we paid many thousands of dollars for. You cut up that box?!?!" Fortunately they had already made a determination about the cardboard and there wasn't any collateral damage, but I certainly lost some sleep over that

I ran my engine to 2400 hrs before replacing it. It had an IRAN at about 1100, but the reason was an incident where I lost oil pressure at 19k and had to make a rapid, no power descent to a safe no power landing. According to my A&P, that caused piston slap that scored the cylinder walls, hence the IRAN. It also had a turbo rebuild at about 700 hrs, right after I got it. That turbo made it all the way to TBO without further incident. I firmly believe that the TSIO360LB can run to TBO and beyond, if the engine is run correctly. Unfortunately, I think that many of the original engines were not, and part of the fault falls on misleading information in the POH. For example, the CHT redline is 460 dF. If you ever hit 460 dF it is probably time for a top overhaul at least. The goal is 380 dF. During high, hot climbs in the summer, such as out of a western airport, the engine might creep up a little over 400, but if the fuel flow is set up correctly to generate at least 24.0 GPH in a full rich full power climb, the CHTs will routinely be around 380, and in the spring, fall and winter they will be lower than that. The POH also has cruise power settings with the engine at or just slightly rich of peak. This is the worst possible place to run an engine and will generate the highest Internal Cylinder Pressures. From my experience, any cruise power setting in the range of 70-75% HP or higher, where the fuel flow is 12 something GPH, is a “red box” setting, hard on the engine. I was able to run the now-replaced engine for hundreds of hours at 11.1 GPH/2450 RPM/34” MP. The reason for the 34” is that lean of peak operation is a fuel/air ratio and you can make the mixture more lean either by reducing the fuel flow while the MP remains constant, or by adding MP while the fuel flow remains constant. So I used the 34” to make the mixture sufficiently lean to be reasonably healthy for the engine. I was concerned about the extra work this puts on the turbo so after it hit 1000 hours from the replacement I had it borescoped by my A&P several times and there were no ill effects. The other thing to watch is cooling of the cylinders, which is affected primarily by the baffling. My old baffling was not great, but with the new engine I have been a stickler on keeping the baffling in good shape, no gaps or creases. Creases where the baffling meets the top cowling were the primary issue with the old baffling. I am at about 150 hours on the new engine. Had to run it ROP for the first 100 hrs per TCM’s break-in instructions, and just beginning to work up LOP operations again. The biggest issue when you buy a used aircraft is that you have no idea how the prior owner ran the engine. If they believed everything that is in the POH the engine may be doomed to an early top or IRAN already.

As a "Mechanical Design Engineer" this interests me too, so I made a cardboard model. I know its nutty, but I am a nutty person. This is just a basic simplification of how the steering works in the extended and retracted position. It has the same strength properties as the gear in my Mooney

+1 to the description above, but if you get underneath the airplane and just look up at the steering horn, and see where the nosewheel pivots on the vertical axis for steering, and then see where it pivots for retraction, you can kinda figure out how it works. It seems like a really oddball system to me and I always wonder what it does while the gear is retracting, but it seems to work fine. It's fairly easy to see how it works with the gear down, and how it does nothing when the gear is retracted, though. I helped a hangar neighbor with the nose gear on his Comanche, and that's the most dirt-simple retractable nosewheel steering system I think I've seen. Comparing the two makes me wonder what sort of life events the guy was going through that designed the Mooney nosewheel steering.

There was a young man who was hired by his uncle as employment of last resort. He was a toothbrush salesman. His performance was so poor, his uncle said he had one month to improve or be fired. The next month he sold more toothbrushes than anyone, and for an average of $130 per brush. HIs uncle was so pleased, he asked what did he do to render such an unbelievable performance. He said; "I set up a table at the airport with a bowl of chips and a bowl of chips. As pilots went by I asked them if they wanted to try the chips and dip. When they did they said the dip tasted like dog doo-doo. I said, it is dog doo-doo, wanna buy a toothbrush?"

Ya know. We talk a lot around here about getting a PMA and DERs and such. Nobody wants to do it because it is too expensive. Well LASAR bit the bullet and spent all the money. Now they want to earn a profit on a very low volume item with high NRE. Be glad they are available.

I honestly think they've overshot on this one. There are many out there, myself included, who were very much on the fence about whether the infant mortality unknowns of a replacement spring were better than the unknowns of an otherwise healthy spring with a lot of hours on it. And that was when the spring was selling for an eye-watering $1000 per unit. But at $3000 per unit, those of us who were already on the fence probably have our decision made easier.