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Posted

65E just wondering how high the air-scoop raises above flus, mine only raises about 1/2"...I'm assuming it should be a bit more to get any air circulating through the overhead ducting..

I've got the schematic out of the parts manual so I'm thinking with the difficulty of opening and closing it that it is binding somewhere and I'm going to have to take down the overhead to check it out..anyone with similar experience, if so, what did you end up doing?

 

V/r

matt

Posted

Maybe an inch? It doesn't have to stick up far to bring in a lot of air in cruise.

Posted
1 hour ago, Matthew P said:

anyone with similar experience

I don’t remember… does the ‘65E have a flush vent door?  That changes how the wire is attached.

This thread might help, but the really good thread from 2011, the pictures are missing…

 

Posted

My 68f went a little farther than an inch open.  Maybe 2”?  It let in lots of air, but it was always a bit “creaky” to open and close and that was after Top Gun replaced the piano wire.  I always tried to keep it lubed too…. I might start with the door and then the knob to make sure the system isn’t binding at either end.

Posted

My 64c goes higher than 1/2 inch. I will measure next Monday. 
 

speaking of this, does anyone know a quick way to replace that screen on it?  I have a few areas that it appears it needs work. 
 

 

Posted

If you absolutely want to shit your pants and have a heart attack all at the same time, break that wire in cruise.  

  • Haha 4
Posted

It depends if you have the single piano wire or the dual control arm pushing the flap up (both versions can be found on p. 234 of the parts catalog). For the control arm version, 1/2" sounds about right. 

Posted
1 hour ago, M20F said:

If you absolutely want to shit your pants and have a heart attack all at the same time, break that wire in cruise.  

I can imagine that makes a decent noise.  ;)

Posted
2 hours ago, Jim Peace said:

My 64c goes higher than 1/2 inch. I will measure next Monday. 
 

speaking of this, does anyone know a quick way to replace that screen on it?  I have a few areas that it appears it needs work. 
 

 

Had mine replaced as it deteriorated.  Had to drill out the rivets, replace screen. Removed hog hair

  • Like 1
Posted

The cable and mechanism are very difficult to get to. They are the type of thing that should be serviced every year. Most have never been serviced. If you remove one of your air vents, you can probably spray some lube on the mechanism and most of the cable.

Posted

I have removed and repaired the one on my 65E. I agree with lubricatiing it if possible at both ends, but it is difficult to replace the wire. It is one of those things that, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, EricJ said:

I can imagine that makes a decent noise.  ;)

I am still having heart palpitations over it, unbelievably loud and not the kind of sound you want to hear wizzing along.

I was convinced I hit an Eagle or something after checking all the gauges 10000x.   Soon as I landed and stepped out saw it flopped out backwards on the roof.  I was happy and then I went and changed my shorts.  

  • Haha 2
Posted
3 hours ago, M20F said:

If you absolutely want to shit your pants and have a heart attack all at the same time, break that wire in cruise.  

Yep had similar thing happen to me in 67C certainly an eye opener especially after my brother who was flying at the time  had just closed the Cowl Flaps and then heard a thud.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, N201MKTurbo said:

The cable and mechanism are very difficult to get to. They are the type of thing that should be serviced every year. Most have never been serviced. If you remove one of your air vents, you can probably spray some lube on the mechanism and most of the cable.

On the flush vent door version (‘63), the wire is below the screen.  My wire broke at the forward end.  I did a temp repair which got me by for a while.  When I replaced the mixture cable with a McFarlane PMA, it had to be cut to length.  There was enough left over that I replaced the Bowden cable with a piece of left over mixture cable.  A nice and smooth teflon lined Bowden cable.  There’s a plug on the left side of the air box for a screw driver to loosen the screw to get the wire free.  It was stuck and I surely didn’t want to strip it.  I sprayed it with some AeroKroil and forgot it about for a few weeks.  When I came back to it, the screw loosened up smooth as butter, like a miracle.  It was a challenge to get the new wire back through the hole, but persistence paid off.  The pic is looking through one of the duct plenums.  This repurposed mixture cable should last for a long, long time. 

As a side note, if you’re in there, replace the drain tube vinyl connection to the aluminum drain tube.  Mine was hard as a rock and leaked like a sieve.  My aluminum drain tube had also split from water freezing in it, so I replaced the entire length with vinyl tube.  The air ducting could probably use replacing, too… 

image.jpeg.9d079bca6f7976d2ad82d8921475fefc.jpeg

 image.jpeg.2407a1f868ea1506c8fd0bece7f6ffbb.jpeg

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, M20F said:

If you absolutely want to shit your pants and have a heart attack all at the same time, break that wire in cruise.  

Yup...sounded like the plane was hit by a bullet when it happened on my E. Changing the wire is not too difficult if teh mechanism is OK.  

Edited by IvanP
  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/2/2025 at 3:28 PM, Jim Peace said:

My 64c goes higher than 1/2 inch. I will measure next Monday. 
 

speaking of this, does anyone know a quick way to replace that screen on it?  I have a few areas that it appears it needs work. 
 

 

My 64C

 

IMG_4338.jpeg

Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Jim Peace said:

My 64C

 

IMG_4338.jpeg

The same flush vent door as on my ‘63C.

Screen repair… it looks like major surgery to remove the rivets and replace the screen in the same way the factory built it.

It looks like there might be clearance to fabricate a frame out of some thin aluminum sheet that just fits inside the vent opening.  Cut the new  creen to size and install it with some #4 sheet metal screw into the old structure.  Oh, remove the old screen first.

Or, speed tape around the sides and top and bottom to hold the new screen.  It wouldn’t look very professional, but would probably work just fine.

Edited by 47U
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