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Posted

I have a sticky rod end on my gears doors.  Mooney wants $700 for a new rod.  I’m trying to get this one freed up.  Anyone have any tricks? I tried both triflow and LPS2, no real change.  
 

thanks! 

Posted

Remove the rod end.  Put a bolt with split washers on both side and tighten, this should lock the bolt to the ball. .  Place the rod end in a vice and spray with penetrant.  Place a wrench on the bolt and work back and forth.  You don't want to see the brass collars rotating.  You can also use a product called frezZ-it that with give a thermal shock to the part to brake the rust.  Enjoy

  • Like 1
Posted

Also, the ends are standard parts.    You can by the spherical rod ends (aka heim joint, whatever) at other suppliers.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
33 minutes ago, EricJ said:

Also, the ends are standard parts.    You can by the spherical rod ends (aka heim joint, whatever) at other suppliers.

 

Like @LANCECASPER I use Kroil (both the spray can with straw and the "drip can") but you can probably replace a rod end cheaper than you can buy the Kroil.

  • Like 2
Posted

Kroil is good. If that doesn't work, try mix of 1/2 Dexron ATF fluid and 1/2 Stoddard solvent. 

Some Mooney linkages have rod ends welded on.

  • Like 2
Posted
4 hours ago, bmcconnaha said:

I have a sticky rod end on my gears doors.  Mooney wants $700 for a new rod.  I’m trying to get this one freed up.  Anyone have any tricks? I tried both triflow and LPS2, no real change.  
 

thanks! 

You could make one from a length of 4130 tubing and two new rod end bearing, tap the tube for 1/4-28 NF threads and screw the rod ends in and secure with a jam nut.

Posted
4 hours ago, bmcconnaha said:

I have a sticky rod end on my gears doors.  Mooney wants $700 for a new rod.  I’m trying to get this one freed up.  Anyone have any tricks? I tried both triflow and LPS2, no real change.  

Last resort is the hot wrench.

  • Like 1
Posted
13 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

You could make one from a length of 4130 tubing and two new rod end bearing, tap the tube for 1/4-28 NF threads and screw the rod ends in and secure with a jam nut.

+1, those are real simple pieces.   The primary important dimensions are just the inside diameters of the sphere holes for the bolts and the min/max adjustable length.

Posted
1 hour ago, PT20J said:

Kroil is good. If that doesn't work, try mix of 1/2 Dexron ATF fluid and 1/2 Stoddard solvent. 

Some Mooney linkages have rod ends welded on.

I heard the ATF trick from someone today, I’ll give that a shot as well.  This rod has a welded end, unfortunately 

Posted
4 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:

Well now that complicates things, doesn't it?

Not if you want to sell $700 parts it doesn't:o

Posted
1 hour ago, MikeOH said:

Not if you want to sell $700 parts it doesn't:o

Frankly, 700 for that part is insanity. I was surprised to hear that today.  

Posted
11 hours ago, bmcconnaha said:

Frankly, 700 for that part is insanity. I was surprised to hear that today.  

This is why god gave us Owner Produced Parts.  ;)

  • Like 2
Posted
6 hours ago, EricJ said:

This is why god gave us Owner Produced Parts.  ;)

And a simple one at that!

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