E-Z Heat

[AH-1 Cobra Pilot]

I have a 1978 201 with the standard 200 hp IO-360.  I would like to put an E-Z Heat strip heater on the crankcase.  The first one I received from AS had bad adhesive.  They sent a second, but I am still not sure of the best way to apply it.  It seems to require some 90 degree bends.  Does anyone have any recommendations?

[Marauder]

31 minutes ago, Ah-1 Cobra Pilot said:

I have a 1978 201 with the standard 200 hp IO-360.  I would like to put an E-Z Heat strip heater on the crankcase.  The first one I received from AS had bad adhesive.  They sent a second, but I am still not sure of the best way to apply it.  It seems to require some 90 degree bends.  Does anyone have any recommendations?

I have a Reiff system on my plane. The temperature overload sensor came off of the crankcase and the folks here suggested JB Weld to reattach it. Worked great.

Here is a photo of it being reattached:

[carusoam]

Welcome aboard, Cobra pilot.

Best regards,

-a-

[AH-1 Cobra Pilot]

Is that the Reiff SL4?  Do the cylinder heaters really do that much more than the oil sump heater?  Are the cylinder heaters easy to attach?

[1524J]

So I guess I need some info on the subject as we may be moving to Logan UT shortly. I've never had to think about a heater for the engine living in Texas. What are the recommendations? Is it possible to use a forced air system through the cowl flap openings or are heating strips on the block the best?

[Marauder]

Is that the Reiff SL4?  Do the cylinder heaters really do that much more than the oil sump heater?  Are the cylinder heaters easy to attach?

I have the Reiff Turbo XP version. The sump heater will eventually warm up the engine but not sure how well it does for the cylinders.

I wanted a system that could be turned on and I could be ready to fly in a couple of hours. The cylinder heaters attach to the cylinders by a band around the cylinder base. Easy to install.

http://www.reiffpreheat.com/product.htm

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[Guitarmaster]

5 hours ago, Ah-1 Cobra Pilot said:

Is that the Reiff SL4?  Do the cylinder heaters really do that much more than the oil sump heater?  Are the cylinder heaters easy to attach?

Yes. I suggest you find Mike Bush's article on TBO and beyond. VERY interesting stuff on cold starts! You can probably find it on the EAA website.  After attending his seminar, I will heat the cylinders over the oil any day!  I had no idea the amount of damage done to an engine during a cold (<32F) start!  Simply building oil pressure fast doesn't help one iota.

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Edited August 27, 2016 by Guitarmaster

[BDPetersen]

Are you sure you have the correct EZ heat? (440, I believe). I don't recall any bends necessary. I do recall an adhesion problem once which was resolved by an after market adhesive recommended by EZ Heat. Might give them a call. Your engine heating strategy should be to envision the temp of the crankshaft and opt for as long a preheat as you can so as to achieve a thorough warming rather than a quick heat-and-go. The EZ Heat is perfectly capable. Wrap the engine with an old sleeping bag. You need insulation as well.

 

[Hank]

2 hours ago, Marauder said:

I have the Reiff Turbo XP version. The sump heater will eventually warm up the engine but not sure how well it does for the cylinders.

I wanted a system that could be turned on and I could be ready to fly in a couple of hours. The cylinder heaters attach to the cylinders by a band around the cylinder base. Easy to install.

http://www.reiffpreheat.com/product.htm

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I just have an oil pan heater (brand unknown, I don't recall, installed by the PO). Even in OH, give it an hour and it cranks right up. Overnight is easier, but the cellular attachment is great--no more driving to the airport the night before to plug in the heat.

[AH-1 Cobra Pilot]

Interesting.  Reiff has a chart here, http://www.reiffpreheat.com/product.htm#Standard System, that shows what either/both an oil sump and/or cylinder heaters do for you, starting at 22 degrees F, for different lengths of time.  The oil sump heater alone will heat the cylinders, but it takes a long time.  They do not say if they had a cover over the cowling, though.

I am much more concerned for the days of -22 F that we see in Nebraska, so maybe the combination is best... 

I had considered the forced-air heaters, but I would much prefer something I can trigger remotely several hours prior to flying.  Speaking of that, does anyone have any recommendations for remote switches, cellular or otherwise?  It may even be possible for me to connect to a local WiFi.

[AH-1 Cobra Pilot]

On 8/26/2016 at 2:21 PM, BDPetersen said:

Are you sure you have the correct EZ heat? (440, I believe). I don't recall any bends necessary. I do recall an adhesion problem once which was resolved by an after market adhesive recommended by EZ Heat. Might give them a call. Your engine heating strategy should be to envision the temp of the crankshaft and opt for as long a preheat as you can so as to achieve a thorough warming rather than a quick heat-and-go. The EZ Heat is perfectly capable. Wrap the engine with an old sleeping bag. You need insulation as well.

 

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ezHeater.php

AS shows my model as the 442, (IO-360 A & C).  Notice how long and skinny it is.  Near as I can tell, It wraps around the side of the sump, bending 90 degrees in two places; not an easy installation.

I was sold on the EZ Heat after installing one on my C-152.  It was quick, easy, and very effective, but may not be the best on this engine.

[carusoam]

Are you storing outside on the -22°F days?

You are going to need more than a reiff heater for that.  Outdoors suffers from wind and feet of snow. Some people use cowling covers and blankets...

engine heating is a two part challenge.  Circulating warm oil overcomes the cold viscosity challenge.  Heating the cylinders separately overcomes the tight tolerances that occur on cold days.

cell switches are really good for turning on heaters including one for the cabin/instruments.

Best regards,

-a-

[Marauder]

9 minutes ago, Ah-1 Cobra Pilot said:

Interesting.  Reiff has a chart here, http://www.reiffpreheat.com/product.htm#Standard System, that shows what either/both an oil sump and/or cylinder heaters do for you, starting at 22 degrees F, for different lengths of time.  The oil sump heater alone will heat the cylinders, but it takes a long time.  They do not say if they had a cover over the cowling, though.

I am much more concerned for the days of -22 F that we see in Nebraska, so maybe the combination is best... 

I had considered the forced-air heaters, but I would much prefer something I can trigger remotely several hours prior to flying.  Speaking of that, does anyone have any recommendations for remote switches, cellular or otherwise?  It may even be possible for me to connect to a local WiFi.

Here is a link to the evaluation I did on the Andoer unit. Very cost effective solution.

In the email thread there is a reference to the SwitchBox version. I own one of these boxes but have stopped using it due to concerns over it's lacking electrical conformity codes.

[BDPetersen]

Interesting. Seems to be a difference between EZ Heat website application guide and the Spruce guide. I'm probably missing something.

[Stetson20]

On August 31, 2016 at 10:42 AM, Ah-1 Cobra Pilot said:

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ezHeater.php

AS shows my model as the 442, (IO-360 A & C).  Notice how long and skinny it is.  Near as I can tell, It wraps around the side of the sump, bending 90 degrees in two places; not an easy installation.

I was sold on the EZ Heat after installing one on my C-152.  It was quick, easy, and very effective, but may not be the best on this engine.

AH-1 check your messages

[DXB]

I'm reviving this thread y'alls.  Right now I preheat my plane in the hangar with a space heater blowing into the cowl, which I cover with a sleeping bag. It works great, but it's a bit of a hassle to set up and not practical when on the road. A few weeks ago I wound up at a major FBO at a decent size field that lacked a working preheat blower, and I gritted my teeth as I struggled to start my carb'd plane with cylinder temps in the low 30's.

 As a CB, I'm about to pull the trigger on the low end E-Z Heat oil sump heater for my plane, along with a 100ft extension cable for when on the road.  I realize it doesn't heat as uniformly or efficiently as Reiff or Tanis systems that include heating elements for the cylinders, and it may help create temp gradients that promote condensation.  But I'm not parking outside in the Alaska wilderness or anything, and I only need a preheat away from home once in a while.  It'll be good enough for me if the heater can get cylinder temps in at least the 50's-60's after being plugged in overnight with temps in the 20s, 

Are people who have the E-Z Heat satisfied? Is owner installation as easy as it looks, even for someone like me with rudimentary skills? Should I have my A&P do it? Or should I use another system?

[Marauder]

I'm reviving this thread y'alls.  Right now I preheat my plane in the hangar with a space heater blowing into the cowl, which I cover with a sleeping bag. It works great, but it's a bit of a hassle to set up and not practical when on the road. A few weeks ago I wound up at a major FBO at a decent size field that lacked a working preheat blower, and I gritted my teeth as I struggled to start my carb'd plane with cylinder temps in the low 30's.
 As a CB, I'm about to pull the trigger on the low end E-Z Heat oil sump heater for my plane, along with a 100ft extension cable for when on the road.  I realize it doesn't heat as uniformly or efficiently as Reiff or Tanis systems that include heating elements for the cylinders, and it may help create temp gradients that promote condensation.  But I'm not parking outside in the Alaska wilderness or anything, and I only need a preheat away from home once in a while.  It'll be good enough for me if the heater can get cylinder temps in at least the 50's-60's after being plugged in overnight with temps in the 20s, 
Are people who have the E-Z Heat satisfied? Is owner installation as easy as it looks, even for someone like me with rudimentary skills? Should I have my A&P do it? Or should I use another system?

I just read the description on their site. It sounds like it is around a 300 watt heater requiring 3 to 5 hours to warm up a cold soaked engine. If that is fine time wise for you, it should be fine. If the FBO allows you to plug in overnight, you would be in a great situation. The big challenge is getting the heat up to the cylinders which also need pre-heating to some level. For reference, my Reiff Turbo XP system is a 600 watt system with 2 separate 100 watt pads and 4 X 100 watt cylinder bands. I can get my 20 degree engine temp to the 80s in 1.5 hours.


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[neilpilot]

1 hour ago, DXB said:

Are people who have the E-Z Heat satisfied? Is owner installation as easy as it looks, even for someone like me with rudimentary skills? Should I have my A&P do it? Or should I use another system?

Our E-Z heat IN OUR HANGAR does a fine job overnight, but I'd encourage you to carry an old blanket or comforter to cover/insulate the cowl overnight, as well. 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/38442295?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227026414563&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52588058655&wl4=aud-261800281660:pla-79659083535&wl5=9013543&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=38442295&wl13=&veh=sem#about-item

[DXB]

38 minutes ago, Hyett6420 said:

Ok i am going to ask a DAFT question, but why are you all warming your planes. Whats the purpose?  Note im from the warm rainy UK.

In my carb'd plane, cold starts have proved tricky even in the 40s F because the 100LL doesn't want to vaporize to an adequately rich fuel-air mixture.  For injected planes, I'm assuming it's mainly concern over startup wear caused altered clearances between components and cold thick oil being slow to circulate.  Supposedly it's really bad below 20F.  

[flight2000]

Remember that starting the instrument gyros in your cold soaked cabin is just as bad as starting the engine without preheat.  I always throw a small space heater on the pilots side to get some warm air forced up behind the panel while I preflight the plane.  Even a short 15-20 minutes will help.   

Just some food for thought....

Cheers,

Brian

[flight2000]

1 hour ago, Hyett6420 said:

Ok i am going to ask a DAFT question, but why are you all warming your planes. Whats the purpose?  Note im from the warm rainy UK.

Here's a good article from Mike Bush on why pre-heating your engine is a really good thing for longevity. 

http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182846-1.html

Anything below 40 Fahrenheit and I'm flipping on the Reiff Pre-Heater on the engine before heading to the airport.  All of the cylinder heads and the oil is up to about 70F after about 3 hours.  I have a Switchbox which allows me to turn on the system with my iPhone and the Switchbox App from home.  

Cheers,

Brian

[Marauder]

Remember that starting the instrument gyros in your cold soaked cabin is just as bad as starting the engine without preheat.  I always throw a small space heater on the pilots side to get some warm air forced up behind the panel while I preflight the plane.  Even a short 15-20 minutes will help.   
Just some food for thought....
Cheers,
Brian

That's why some us have gone to glass. No gyros to spin up in the cold cabin. And with the environmental specs for these pretty wide, little worries of cold cockpits:

Garmin G500

-20C to +55C operating temp
-55C to +85C storage temp
2 degrees C per minute temp variation
95% at 50C humidity
Display equipment tested to 55,000 ft max altitude

Aspen PFD/MFD

Operating Temp -20°C to +55°C
Storage Temp -55°C to +85°C
Max Operating Altitude (unpress.) 35,000 ft.
Max Humidity 95% at 50°C


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[Cyril Gibb]

4 hours ago, DXB said:

Are people who have the E-Z Heat satisfied? 

Using a sump heater and a quilted cowl cover, I see about 30-40F increase as shown on my Insight EGTs/CHTs above ambient after about 4 hours from cold soaked.  I also have a small cabin heater to get the gyros more comfortable.

[flight2000]

3 hours ago, Marauder said:

That's why some us have gone to glass. No gyros to spin up in the cold cabin. And with the environmental specs for these pretty wide, little worries of cold cockpits:

Garmin G500

-20C to +55C operating temp
-55C to +85C storage temp
2 degrees C per minute temp variation
95% at 50C humidity
Display equipment tested to 55,000 ft max altitude

Aspen PFD/MFD

Operating Temp -20°C to +55°C
Storage Temp -55°C to +85°C
Max Operating Altitude (unpress.) 35,000 ft.
Max Humidity 95% at 50°C


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Next time you're in the back yard, shake the money tree a little harder for those of us that are still slummin it in gyro land...

Someday, I'll bump up to glass and not have to worry about it.  Today is not that day though....

Cheers,

Brian

Edited December 25, 2016 by flight2000
Can't spell.... ;)