Doing the first annual now... wowza!!

[Marauder]

I should have mentioned that. Yes, it is VERY smooth! The only vibration comes from the big-bore four-banger. Worth every penny!

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That's good to know. I haven't had the prop balanced but suspect it is about time.

As for airspeed, report back when you get it all setup correctly. I flight plan 150 KTAS at normal power settings but can get her up to 155 with the prop at 2600 and producing 75% or so power.

[Guitarmaster]

That's good to know. I haven't had the prop balanced but suspect it is about time.

As for airspeed, report back when you get it all setup correctly. I flight plan 150 KTAS at normal power settings but can get her up to 155 with the prop at 2600 and producing 75% or so power.

 

Ok Chris.  

 

The ailerons are back in line with the wing and the flaps are aligned with the ailerons. The pic is the "before"shot.  Note the gap between the two.  

 

The preliminary results are in.

 

The right roll tendency had decreased DRAMATICALLY!  There is no rolling when the flaps are extended anymore.  She even seems to land better.

 

At 4500ft Indicated /~1000ft density altitude (ISA -24 and 30.50) she measured 132.75 KTAS  at 60% (21/24) power. 2268LB with an arm of 44.62.  That is slightly forward of mid-point CG. This was derived using the cardinal points method. I didn't have time today do any further testing.  That is a few knots above book speed.  Perviously she has been up to 7 KTAS slower than book.  The IAS is about five knots above what it usually runs.  

 

It would seem rigging makes a HUGE difference in these airplanes.  These adjustments were done with common sense and eyeball.  The next step is to rent the rigging boards and do every control surface.  So far so good though.  

 

Question, since our planes are sisters, where does your trim sit in cruise?  Mine is very close to full nose down. Makes me think the tail might need adjustment.  Although, the TO setting is just about right on.

 

Cheers 

[Guest]

You really need the correct travel boards to confirm tail trim rigging. Flap and aileron rigging can be off a bit and not be to dangerous, the tail on the other hand is more critical.

Clarence

Forgot to ask if your cabin entry step has a fairing?

[Guitarmaster]

You really need the correct travel boards to confirm tail trim rigging. Flap and aileron rigging can be off a bit and not be to dangerous, the tail on the other hand is more critical.

Clarence

Forgot to ask if your cabin entry step has a fairing?

 

 

Now that you mention it, I don't think so.  It's fixed and sits just about in line with the flap.

[Marauder]

Ok Chris.

The ailerons are back in line with the wing and the flaps are aligned with the ailerons. The pic is the "before"shot. Note the gap between the two.

The preliminary results are in.

The right roll tendency had decreased DRAMATICALLY! There is no rolling when the flaps are extended anymore. She even seems to land better.

At 4500ft Indicated /~1000ft density altitude (ISA -24 and 30.50) she measured 132.75 KTAS at 60% (21/24) power. 2268LB with an arm of 44.62. That is slightly forward of mid-point CG. This was derived using the cardinal points method. I didn't have time today do any further testing. That is a few knots above book speed. Perviously she has been up to 7 KTAS slower than book. The IAS is about five knots above what it usually runs.

It would seem rigging makes a HUGE difference in these airplanes. These adjustments were done with common sense and eyeball. The next step is to rent the rigging boards and do every control surface. So far so good though.

Question, since our planes are sisters, where does your trim sit in cruise? Mine is very close to full nose down. Makes me think the tail might need adjustment. Although, the TO setting is just about right on.

Cheers

Matt - great news! The rigging boards will help verify everything is correct. As for the nose down trim -- Yep, mine is all the way down when in cruise. I have it slightly above the takeoff position for departures (about half of the indicator out). If I have it on the takeoff position or further down, the plane feels like it wants to wheelbarrow off of the runway (unless I use decent back pressure).

Your speed sounds on target. The speed mods will have some impact. I have the 201 windshield, lower cowl enclosure, gap seals on the ailerons and flaps.

My step also was removed. Let me know know what you get when you are flying at altitude and full power. Good job!

[Guest]

Chris,

Tight fitting gear doors, correctly rigged flight controls, absolutely tight engine cooling baffles with no leaks for air to escape, reducing parisistic drag, things on the underside are in higher pressure than the top side so have greater drag, clean smooth paint and a fairing on the cabin step leg will all help you go faster.

Clarence

[Cyril Gibb]

Clarence on my first 1975 M20F annual a few months ago got me about 10 KTAS over what I had before.

Rigging (he's got all the boards), gear doors (nose door was installed incorrectly) and installed a step fairing like an M20J worked wonders.

I  get about 150-152 KTAS @ 8.8 GPH LOP (65%).  that's @ 2200 rpm... I like it more peaceful

Proper rigging is magic.....

[Guitarmaster]

Matt - great news! The rigging boards will help verify everything is correct. As for the nose down trim -- Yep, mine is all the way down when in cruise. I have it slightly above the takeoff position for departures (about half of the indicator out). If I have it on the takeoff position or further down, the plane feels like it wants to wheelbarrow off of the runway (unless I use decent back pressure).

Your speed sounds on target. The speed mods will have some impact. I have the 201 windshield, lower cowl enclosure, gap seals on the ailerons and flaps.

My step also was removed. Let me know know what you get when you are flying at altitude and full power. Good job!

All sounds normal then. Makes me happy.

[Guitarmaster]

Matt - great news! The rigging boards will help verify everything is correct. As for the nose down trim -- Yep, mine is all the way down when in cruise. I have it slightly above the takeoff position for departures (about half of the indicator out). If I have it on the takeoff position or further down, the plane feels like it wants to wheelbarrow off of the runway (unless I use decent back pressure).

Your speed sounds on target. The speed mods will have some impact. I have the 201 windshield, lower cowl enclosure, gap seals on the ailerons and flaps.

My step also was removed. Let me know know what you get when you are flying at altitude and full power. Good job!

I hear the gap seals don't do much for speed but do for climb. Is that your experience?

[ryoder]

Step fairing? I thought they all retracted?

[N601RX]

My plane was always slower than speeds others were reporting.  The controls felt heavy although they were well lubed. The autopilot was sluggish.  But it flew straight hands off.  Another local member was nice enough to let set his travel board on on the wing.  To my surprise the flaps and ailerons were both rigged down 6 deg on one side and 8 on the other.  After correcting this I picked up about 6 knts, controls lightened up considerably and the autopilot operation is completely smooth now.

[Bob_Belville]

Step fairing? I thought they all retracted?

No Mooneys were built in '72-'73. When Republic Steel bought the company from Butler and started production back up the retracting step was replaced with a more aerodynamic but fixed version as part of a program to take cost out of the manufacturing process. 

[Hank]

The step on my '70 model is fixed, too.

 

I picked up 10-15 mph by having the flapper on my carb heat repaired. Didn't notice a problem until the cable seized up, in the Carb Heat On position. THAT is something you will notice . . .

[Marauder]

I hear the gap seals don't do much for speed but do for climb. Is that your experience?

Can't say, all the speed mods were on the plane (sans lower cowl enclosure) when I bought it. But I have heard and read that the gaps seals were intended for improvement in climb also.

[ryoder]

The step on my '70 model is fixed, too.

I picked up 10-15 mph by having the flapper on my carb heat repaired. Didn't notice a problem until the cable seized up, in the Carb Heat On position. THAT is something you will notice . . .

Not to pick but shouldn't your pretakeoff checklist include a carb heat test looking for an rpm drop?

[Bob_Belville]

Can't say, all the speed mods were on the plane (sans lower cowl enclosure) when I bought it. But I have heard and read that the gaps seals were intended for improvement in climb also.

Since I suppose that reduction of parasite(?) drag is more important the higher the speed so that all the cleanup mods are mostly about cruise. 

[ArtVandelay]

Can't say, all the speed mods were on the plane (sans lower cowl enclosure) when I bought it. But I have heard and read that the gaps seals were intended for improvement in climb also.

You should be able to compare against the book speeds...

On my 201 I have almost all of the mods, which should give me an extra 19mph, seems like it's more like 5-7

[Marauder]

Since I suppose that reduction of parasite(?) drag is more important the higher the speed so that all the cleanup mods are mostly about cruise. 

 

Here is what LASAR shows on their site for flap gap seals: http://www.lasar.com/mod-details.asp?id=10The only comment they had on the aileron seals was a slight airspeed claim.

[DXB]

No, only up through 1967 retract. From '68 on they are either fixed or deleted entirely.

Jim

What is this step fairing I keep hearing about?  I can't find info on it anywhere.  I have the '68C with the fixed step.

[treebobboy]

Bluehighwayflyer, not to be picky, but I have an original '68 M20G and it has a retractable step.

[HRM]

What is this step fairing I keep hearing about?  I can't find info on it anywhere.  I have the '68C with the fixed step.

 

I believe it is a piece of metal that makes the fixed step more aerodynamic. I have heard of it coming off, corroding off, breaking off, etc.

[Bob_Belville]

I wonder if there are any two Mooneys alike?

[HRM]

I wonder if there are any two Mooneys alike?

 

I can tell you that The Mistress (N5976Q) is absolutely and unequivocally one of a kind.

[Hank]

Not to pick but shouldn't your pretakeoff checklist include a carb heat test looking for an rpm drop?

The STARTING CHECK does have this:

11. Carburetor Heat--ON momentarily to check operation. (RPM should drop.)

When I checked it, it operated. The lever moved to OFF, and I taxied merrily on my way with it still operating. Climb performance is very, very poor. But now, with a new cable and repaired butterfly, my airspeed is up 10-15 mph versus previous.

[DXB]

Having only flown one other plane (a piper warrior, which is much less prone to carb ice), I'm still struck by how dramatic the rpm drop is in the M20C with carb heat on at run up.   I assume we have a more effective heating system given our carb's high propensity to make ice?  It still makes me a little uneasy when I turn it on for descent/landing, lest the rich mixture fouls the plugs, or I forget to turn off for a go-around.  My MSC prebuy mechanic suggested only pulling it on half way, but I think I'll wait until I have a carb temp gauge until I try this.