isaacpr7 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Posted December 19, 2014 I changed my nose gear tire and when I hand tightened the castellated nut, the groove came to a stop just prior to the hole where the cotter pin is inserted. After advancing the nut slightly for alignment, the wheel felt as if it was not tight enough so I advanced the nut to the next groove; however, this groove felt a bit too tight for me because when I gave the wheel a spin it rotated for about half a turn before coming to a full stop. I searched in the maintenance manual for a torque value without any luck. The only torque listed for the wheel was for the nuts holding the split rim which was 90" lbs. Can someone enlighten me on the proper torque for the large 1-1/2" nut that holds the wheel in place? Quote
kerry Posted December 19, 2014 Report Posted December 19, 2014 I back my nut so my wheel spins freely. Quote
isaacpr7 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Posted December 19, 2014 In my case, the notch that allows the wheel to spin freely is about 1/8" to 1/4" turn after hand tightening. Does that sound about the right setting? Quote
MB65E Posted December 19, 2014 Report Posted December 19, 2014 Was the grease replaced in the bearings? With fresh grease, take it down till it compresses all the grease. (Sounds like you have) , then back it off untill it spins freely. There should not be any bearing play felt with a left and right twist of the wheel. I have never seen a final torque on a 500x5 wheel. Jet wheels are usually torqued initially pretty high, then have a final torque of about half of what the initial was. On a photo flight once I noticed a wheel on a Pitts spinning in flight, I checked it out later and it was too loose. Ended up making a small spacer to get the cotter pin to line up. Did you miss a spacer on install? That's all I've got, I don't think Mooney gave too much thought to wheel maintenance. It was the similar 500x5 wheel used since the 30's. -Matt Quote
carusoam Posted December 19, 2014 Report Posted December 19, 2014 I checked my maint. manual this evening. They give A drawing of all the parts in the order that they were assembled... No no torque details that I could find on anything... 60's tech? Best regards, -a- Quote
DonMuncy Posted December 19, 2014 Report Posted December 19, 2014 You don't really torque this nut. You turn it gently until the bearing binds slightly and then back off to the next cotter pin slot. 4 Quote
isaacpr7 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Posted December 19, 2014 Thanks guys. As usual, you guys have answered my questions and appeased my concerns. I will back it up one notch so that it turns freely. I did check the free turning notch before and there was no play. Quote
N601RX Posted December 19, 2014 Report Posted December 19, 2014 You can download the Cleveland mant manual from Parker's website. "Torque axle nut using value specified in aircraft manual or the following: 1 Rotate the wheel/tire while tightening axle nut to 150 to 200 inch-pounds (16.9 to 22.6 Nm) to seat the bearing. 2 Back off axle nut to zero torque. 3 Tighten axle nut to 30-40 inch-pounds (3.4 to 4.5 Nm) while rotating wheel/tire. 4 Rotate axle nut (clockwise or counterclockwise) to nearest slot and cotter pin hole, and insert cotter pin. Bend ends of cotter pin around axle nut. Note: Wheel must rotate freely without perceptible play." 3 1 Quote
Jim Peace Posted December 22, 2014 Report Posted December 22, 2014 I back my nut so my wheel spins freely. I just did that about 5 minutes ago......getting sleepy I don't even know what that means.... Goodnight everybody !!!!!!!!!!!! Quote
FlyingDude Posted February 27, 2021 Report Posted February 27, 2021 (edited) Hey guys, This post with your insight comes to help me after 6+ years, thanks I have another question: is there a torque setting for the "spline nut" #9 and "through bolts" #12 on the service manual? My hangar neighbor told me how he one time overtightened it and pretty much stripped the bolts, so he insisted that I search for the torque setting... The service manual, as many of you have noted, is lacking in that regard. So, what's the torque value? Thanks again. F Edited February 27, 2021 by FlyingDude Quote
FlyingDude Posted February 27, 2021 Report Posted February 27, 2021 (edited) 150 in-lbs, as in the J model? Edited February 27, 2021 by FlyingDude Quote
EricJ Posted February 27, 2021 Report Posted February 27, 2021 Often if there isn't a torque spec indicated for the specific item, there's a general torque spec for the particular fastener size. In the M20J maintenance manual sections 5-20-01 is dedicated to this. I don't know if it is the same in other manuals. 1 Quote
orionflt Posted February 27, 2021 Report Posted February 27, 2021 On 12/18/2014 at 10:55 PM, isaacpr7 said: In my case, the notch that allows the wheel to spin freely is about 1/8" to 1/4" turn after hand tightening. Does that sound about the right setting? Yes, the wheel should spin at least one full revolution, but shouldn’t be loose. I usually see 2-3 revolutions. The key is not to over tighten it. Sounds like the second grove is too tight. Brian Quote
M20F Posted March 1, 2021 Report Posted March 1, 2021 On 12/19/2014 at 12:55 PM, MB65E said: Nicely Done 601! -Matt Providing facts instead of opinions who would have thunk! Quote
FlyingDude Posted March 5, 2021 Report Posted March 5, 2021 Just an update... The MLG have AN5-35A bolts, with Length= 3-23/32 and thread 5/16-24, and that goes with and AN365-524 nut, so according to the AC43.13 (which was copy&pasted in the J POH), the torque setting is 100-140 in-lbs. NLG has AN4-22A bolt L=2-9/32, thread 1/4-28), which goes with AN365-428 nut, so its torque setting is 50-70 in-lbs... I used 135 and 65 respectively, to account for any instrument tolerance and my man-handling... The entire job took me 28 hrs, because there was rust on some parts, though some other parts had decent paint. Stripped a lot of sides, used zinc chromate for the outboard side of MLG and disc drums, otherwise used self-etching primer and the aesthetically pleasing rustoleum primer+paint… As usual, no job is fully done: the dust cover screws were stripped. I thought they would be included in the M20E trim set I got from spruce, but they are not, so I used the tapered-headed access panel set screws (same thread, but different length and head) padded with double washers for the time being and finally went for a 1-hr flight. The proper screws and washers are in the mail from spruce... It's like that annoying history class when you learn that WW2 is technically not over, because there is still those little islands (Kurile islands) contended by Russia and Japan. I can't help but note that, though I'm forcing myself to become fluent in imperial units, the first day my local friend was helping me, and since my torque wrench is labeled in foot-pounds we had to convert the above settings from ln-lbs to ft-lbs, but the division by 12 proved to be cumbersome... to the point we had to use google. It's slightly easier to go from N.m to N.cm... He blurted "what a PITA" while I was keeping quiet and cursing myself for the dent on the underside of the wing caused by misaligned hydraulic jack. Cheers F 2 Quote
Guest Posted March 5, 2021 Report Posted March 5, 2021 Normally Cleveland wheels have a placard which specifies the wheel tie bolt torque. In my experience 1/4-28 bolts are torqued to 90”lbs and 5/16-24 bolts are torqued to 150”lbs. Opinion not fact! Clarence Quote
FlyingDude Posted March 5, 2021 Report Posted March 5, 2021 3 minutes ago, M20Doc said: Normally Cleveland wheels have a placard which specifies the wheel tie bolt torque. In my experience 1/4-28 bolts are torqued to 90”lbs and 5/16-24 bolts are torqued to 150”lbs. Opinion not fact! Clarence Oh mine's placards are looong gone... What you say chimes with the J manual I copy&pasted above. Now, a dumb question: is there one type of cleveland wheels or multiple types? And then, I think it'll make a difference if you torque them with deflated vs inflated tires, because the push by the hub halves adds to the friction force in the thread. I torqued them with tire still deflated. Cheers Quote
FlyingDude Posted March 6, 2021 Report Posted March 6, 2021 13 hours ago, PT20J said: Maybe this will help This is golden. Thanks... Where do I find what wheel assembly is mounted on my M20E? The parts manual has Mooney PN, not supplier PN. Maybe a dumb question, but I appreciate the help. Quote
FlyingDude Posted March 6, 2021 Report Posted March 6, 2021 (edited) Alright, google says "40-24" and "40-87" for M20E... Where can I confirm this? The Parker document has a footnote and refers you back to the placard on the wheel! Annoying... But, most values I see are around 150 in lbs... Is that what it is? Edited March 6, 2021 by FlyingDude Quote
carusoam Posted March 6, 2021 Report Posted March 6, 2021 6 hours ago, FlyingDude said: This is golden. Thanks... Where do I find what wheel assembly is mounted on my M20E? The parts manual has Mooney PN, not supplier PN. Maybe a dumb question, but I appreciate the help. It May be visible in the casting of the wheel parts... might be hiding behind the wheel cover if you have one... Expect that every part on our planes has both the manufacturer’s part number and one added to it by Mooney... It is important for both party’s record keeping... I searched on line for pics of wheels with part numbers... all I came up with was a decal on the wheel... not sure what it says on it... Best regards, -a- 1 Quote
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