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Best way to Pre-Heat or Cold Start an Engine away from home


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Posted

I am currently use Shell 15W50, but will be switching to Phillips 20W50 at next oil change. The shell was what the prior owner had in it.

I just bought the plane, so so far -24 is the coldest I have started it in. I start it, idle it for 10 minutes before I go do the run up. After that I am usually seeing the CHT needle start to move. I don't see an oil temp indication until I am airborne.

I'm using the original gauges. Once I put an analyzer in with digital oil temp I'll have a better idea as to how warm things are actually staying.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Blaine:

 

What part of the country are you in?  Yves and I live in the Ottawa/Gatineau area in Ontario and there is one member in St Hubert.  Boreal One lives in Nfld, and Chris lives in Alberta.  There are others, but these are the ones I remember.  Both Yves and I are also parked outdoors - both for lack of hanger space.

Posted

I am in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. I bought the plane in Cornwall, Ont. at the end of October and flew it home. There is hangar space here in Saskatoon, if you don't mind starting at $300 a month for an unheated hangar... paying less than a third of that to park outdoors with a plug in and fairly prompt snow clearing is fine by me.

Posted

I'm in Florida, so not much need for pre-heating. However, in my corporate jet travels North, I've seen all sorts of heating methods. Some successful, some not so much. I always take an interest in what people do and why. One popular method seems to be the EU1000 Honda generator running a Tannis system or a small electric heater. I've considered purchasing one of these little generators for preheating my Lycoming. However, it's hard to think about cold weather when I'm still in Short Pants, mid December. 

 

I also wondered if the fan and exhaust output of the Honda EU1000 could be restricted somewhat, then ducted up into the engine compartment. Car exhaust does not work well, but the little generator has sufficient airflow to dilute the exhaust and prevent condensation. Now that I think about it, a heating element in the outlet duct could add considerable heat too. 

 

HondaEU1000i006.jpg

Posted

When going to the extent of using a nice expensive generator in combination of an electric block and cylinder heater, it is best to skip using the exhaust stream in PlanA.

If you need plan B, get the right size generator to match the additional load of the extra heating pads.

-----

Exhaust comes with CO and moisture and other acidic rust promoters that you don't want...

Half in the CB club, and half out of the CB club is not a good plan.

It takes true engineering skill to be in the CB club...

An Asian tool supply company generator compared to a Honda...now we're getting close. Still not using the exhaust stream...

Additional exhaust thoughts...

2 cycle vs 4 engines cycle will include oil in the exhaust...

Remember there isn't a catalytic converter on these engines... Exhaust has an uncontrolled amount of CO in it compared to modern autos...

Best regards,

-a-

Posted

I use a multi-fuel "MSR" type camp stove to pre-heat my Husky when camping in the Idaho back country. Stove runs on white gas, mo-gas, or 100LL in a pinch. I made my own ducting similar to the "Northern Companion" http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ncpreheater.php

 

Basically, you buy galvanized heater duct reducers, cut some air holes around the bottom, add legs for stability, stick the stove inside, and run a metal flex dryer duct to the lower cowl opening. This is not a heater you can leave unattended, but it puts out a lot more heat that any car exhaust and more efficiently and cleaner as well. Depending on OAT and stove setting (I rarely use more than medium low) you'll see a 30 F rise in half an hour or there'bouts. This is also with a full engine cover leaving one engine inlet vent uncovered, or partly so, for draft.

 

The whole set up, stove, ducting etc nest together and weigh just a few pounds.

  • Like 1
Posted

I use a multi-fuel "MSR" type camp stove to pre-heat my Husky when camping in the Idaho back country. Stove runs on white gas, mo-gas, or 100LL in a pinch. I made my own ducting similar to the "Northern Companion" http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ncpreheater.php

 

Basically, you buy galvanized heater duct reducers, cut some air holes around the bottom, add legs for stability, stick the stove inside, and run a metal flex dryer duct to the lower cowl opening. This is not a heater you can leave unattended, but it puts out a lot more heat that any car exhaust and more efficiently and cleaner as well. Depending on OAT and stove setting (I rarely use more than medium low) you'll see a 30 F rise in half an hour or there'bouts. This is also with a full engine cover leaving one engine inlet vent uncovered, or partly so, for draft.

 

The whole set up, stove, ducting etc nest together and weigh just a few pounds.

 

I built the same setup when I had my Maule up in Alaska.  Works like a champ, and the stove is a great piece of survival equipment too!  But you can't leave it un-attended.

Posted

The old timers would drain the oil after shut down and then heat it up over the camp fire the next morning. That's when you know you're a rugged man.

You forgot about the part about killing the squirrel and cooking it over the same campfire...

Posted

The old timers would drain the oil after shut down and then heat it up over the camp fire the next morning. That's when you know you're a rugged man.

Just don't confuse the oil warming pot with the coffee pot. Grounds in the oil wouldn't be any better than oil in yer belly.

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