Are there model years one should avoid?

[Entropy]

Here’s a question for ya’ll; is there any significant difference a buyer should care about between pre-68 Mooney vs post-68? I had read somewhere that cost cutting occurred around ‘69, and was wondering if negative changes were significant enough to avoid later model’s of C, E, F? Thanks!

[M20F-1968]

I have a 1968 F and because of my extensive rebuild have opened up every crevice.  The factory spent some extra time and money during those years.  It has flush rivets that the 69's and later did not.  They tried to do some sound deadening internally (which was later abandoned) but attempts were made to continue upgrading the product.  Those efforts were all abandoned in 69 and were only to be started again when the F was cleaned up and transformed into the J.  I believe the Johnson Bar is an upgrade that has been abandoned.  It is mechanically simple, fast, relatively easy to operate if rigged correctly, and bypasses the springs, gear ratios, unavailable parts, and expense of the electric gear.  I much prefer the push-pull vernier cable controls versus the throttle quadrant.  The hydraulic flaps are a bit of a PITA to rig until you have worked through it.  The system is messy to work on but works reliably provided it does not leak.

But, when buying a used airplane, you are limited to what is available and what you can find...

John Breda

[KSMooniac]

I concur 100% with both comments.  Especially buying the best example you can find and afford as the primary goal, secondarily with as much installed equipment or mods/upgrades as you might want, unless you're planning on an extensive upgrade yourself with all the associated downtime, cost, sweat equity, etc.  You want hangared, flown & maintained regularly and consistently, etc.  Gear-ups, hangar rash that results in a new control surface, or other minor damage is pretty much no consequence so don't get hung-up on searching for no damage history whatsoever.  The good news IMO is the "lesser years" (arguable) were much lower production, so you won't find a lot of them out there compared to the 65-67/68 range, or 75+.  The C lasted until 1978 and had a lot in common with my 77 J around that time.  Ditto the 76 F.  

John likely stands alone as one who has done a tip-to-tail rebuild and upgrade of his F, but he spent a lot of time and effort to make it his perfect Mooney.  Some others here (myself included) have been working through in stages while flying in between.  There is a lot that an owner can do to a vintage Mooney to make it very modern, if desired.  Like John, I did not like the throttle quadrant that came in my J, and I spent a lot of effort/sweat equity to scavenge 1981 J parts and replace my center console assembly to update to linear controls.  But, having the quadrant did not prevent me from buying a fantastic airplane, and at the time I didn't even think about replacing it. That is just a personal preference item and some folks love the quadrant.

Otherwise, just buy the best one you can, and then fly and maintain it regularly and you'll be far happier than getting a newer model that might have been sitting, deferred maintenance, etc. that will nag you for a few years until you get it caught up.  You can fix/update just about anything you wish with any Mooney, but starting with corrosion free and regular use should be paramount, and then decide how much of a turnkey vs. project you might want... 

[M20F-1968]

On 8/23/2023 at 12:08 PM, bluehighwayflyer said:

Agreed.  John made most of this a moot point in the extensive restomod of his ‘68, but ‘67 and earlier models are even more optimal, as the cheapening process that he alluded to actually started in ‘68 and not ‘69.  But at this point condition is far more important than are any of the changes that were made.  Find an example that has been hangared, flown, loved, and maintained and then continue those traditions for the best possible ownership experience.  I would disregard year of manufacture pretty much entirely.  

My airplane was signed off in very early 1968, so although the paperwork is 1968, it still came to me with all of the factory enhancements installed before the large changes that were made after it was my airplane was delivered.

John Breda 

[Shadrach]

Most of the changes made little difference in terms of performance. In addition to the previously mentioned flush riveting, at some point I believe they stopped joggling some of the access covers. The control surfaces went from smooth with ribs to beaded skin sometime around 1970. After 74, the hydraulic reservoir went from a purpose built aluminum cylinder to what looks like a repurposed solvent can. The retractable step was gradually taken out of production sometime in 74-75. There are probably other changes that I have missed.

At the end of the day, these minor variances are just that, minor. 

I like the retractable step.  If I found an airplane that I wanted with a fixed step, I would simply remove the step and keep a small folding aluminum step stool for passengers.

[Utah20Gflyer]

I like my 68 a lot but ultimately a Mooney from the best year that has been badly neglected is going to be a poor choice and a plane from the worst year that has had excellent care would be a good choice.  Or in other words after 50 years each plane is going to be unique based on its history.   The biggest difference is j bar or electric gear, short mid or long body, and turbo or normally aspirated.  Decide on those three things and then find the best cared for plane that has them.  

[A64Pilot]

My understanding is that there was some years when Mooney abandoned TIG welding for MIG in a cost saving move, but TIG came back later.

I don’t know if this is even true much less which years, but it would seem there isn’t much difference or there would be a year range people are told to avoid, but I’ve never heard of one.

Corrosion is your concern, I wouldn’t worry too much about a gear up etc., but corrosion is often the death of an airplane, the older one is the more likely it has hidden corrosion. Usually most other discrepancies are minor compared to corrosion.

[redcatcher27]

Avoid all models and years, with the outstanding exception of the 1968 M20F, in my humble opinion.

[Ned Gravel]

Or you can ask someone who has no bias at all, and they will tell you to get a 65 E.  

OK maybe a little bias.

[M20F]

Maxwell told me 67 was the last good year.  I bought a 67.