DaV8or Posted May 21, 2020 Report Posted May 21, 2020 Has anyone changed their wheel bearing cups? One of my nose wheel bearing cups appears to have a crack in it. It needs to be changed. I have Cleveland wheels. Quote
thinwing Posted May 21, 2020 Report Posted May 21, 2020 Yeah I’ve changed out both cups on my M..with Help from an arbor press and a big socket...standard mechanic stuff Quote
1964-M20E Posted May 21, 2020 Report Posted May 21, 2020 are your talking about the bearing race that is in the wheel? The can be somewhat of a pain. Ideally you would use a hydraulic press to push it out. However with care you can use a hammer and drift pin just take your time. I've never heard of a race cracking?? Quote
thinwing Posted May 21, 2020 Report Posted May 21, 2020 Negative on drift pin hammer...that way leads to a new wheel...simply size a socket to engage lip of cup( bearing race) and find a buddy at airport with arbor press Quote
kortopates Posted May 21, 2020 Report Posted May 21, 2020 No arbor press is actually required. Just follow the Mooney service manual which calls for heating in an oven and cooling in a freezer - just drops right in with merely a tap of rubber mallet to seat. 2 2 Quote
PT20J Posted May 21, 2020 Report Posted May 21, 2020 3 hours ago, DaV8or said: Has anyone changed their wheel bearing cups? One of my nose wheel bearing cups appears to have a crack in it. It needs to be changed. I have Cleveland wheels. Are you sure it’s really cracked? The races are hardened steel. The usual problem is corrosion due to moisture getting past the felt seals and etching the finished surface. If it’s just on the surface, you can clean it up with Scotchbrite. https://www.timken.com/pdf/5892_Bearing Damage Analysis Brochure.pdf Skip Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted May 21, 2020 Report Posted May 21, 2020 I’ve changed many. All the above methods work.... Quote
DaV8or Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Posted May 21, 2020 15 hours ago, PT20J said: Are you sure it’s really cracked? The races are hardened steel. The usual problem is corrosion due to moisture getting past the felt seals and etching the finished surface. If it’s just on the surface, you can clean it up with Scotchbrite. https://www.timken.com/pdf/5892_Bearing Damage Analysis Brochure.pdf Skip Thanks posting that. I looked through all the illustrations and what I have doesn't exactly look like any of them. However, when I run a very fine pick over the area, I can feel it hang up. I guess I can try hitting it with some Scotchbrite and see what happens. I have nothing to lose. Quote
RLCarter Posted May 22, 2020 Report Posted May 22, 2020 Like others have said, outer races (cups) are harder than Chinese Arithmetic and rarely crack. 2 years ago my hangar flooded (11 1/2”) and I replaced 12 complete bearing/cups (2 Aircraft). Using a drift works but you are actually cocking the bearing race in the bore of the wheel, if this is your only choice “Tap” it out don’t “beat” it out, a press works the best but if the race isn’t square with the bore you can press it in crooked and do more damage than with a drift. Heating the wheel does expand the bore a few thousands and chilling the cup (outer race) reduces the O.D. a few thou as well. These aren’t a very tight fit and usually push in by hand with chilling the cup only, remember as the race warms up it will sweat so your dealing with moisture which probably started the whole problem to start with. If the outer race is pitted to the point you can hang a pick it should be replaced, be sure to inspect the bearing rollers as they are probably damaged as well. My rule is if I can’t determine if it’s a crack or an imperfection it gets replaced 1 Quote
DaV8or Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Posted May 23, 2020 On 5/21/2020 at 6:53 PM, RLCarter said: Like others have said, outer races (cups) are harder than Chinese Arithmetic and rarely crack. 2 years ago my hangar flooded (11 1/2”) and I replaced 12 complete bearing/cups (2 Aircraft). Using a drift works but you are actually cocking the bearing race in the bore of the wheel, if this is your only choice “Tap” it out don’t “beat” it out, a press works the best but if the race isn’t square with the bore you can press it in crooked and do more damage than with a drift. Heating the wheel does expand the bore a few thousands and chilling the cup (outer race) reduces the O.D. a few thou as well. These aren’t a very tight fit and usually push in by hand with chilling the cup only, remember as the race warms up it will sweat so your dealing with moisture which probably started the whole problem to start with. If the outer race is pitted to the point you can hang a pick it should be replaced, be sure to inspect the bearing rollers as they are probably damaged as well. My rule is if I can’t determine if it’s a crack or an imperfection it gets replaced That's kind of my thinking. Whatever it is, it's not good. 1 Quote
RobertGary1 Posted May 24, 2020 Report Posted May 24, 2020 You just mean the race? Yes every-time I change a bearing I change the race. Why would you bother changing a bearing if you’re not going to do the race? you can rent the drift for free at most autoparts stores. -Robert Quote
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