skydvrboy Posted January 15, 2020 Report Posted January 15, 2020 So I took the week off to do my first owner assisted annual and am loving it. Two questions so far, but I'm sure there will be more. First, what goes to these two drain tubes? Nothing has been attached since I bought it and it seems all drain houses are routed elsewhere. This ours looking in the pilot side. I removed and rebuilt the flap pump this afternoon, but two o rings Lasar sent don't seem correct. We replaced these o rings with the next size smaller and it looks correct now. Has anyone else experienced this? Pic is of o rings sent with kit. Quote
RLCarter Posted January 15, 2020 Report Posted January 15, 2020 There definitely should be hoses connect to those drains, flap pump rebuild kit I got from LASAR was spot on Quote
carusoam Posted January 15, 2020 Report Posted January 15, 2020 Do you have an overhead vent box with a drain tube that goes to the drain? Do you have a second overhead vent box with a drain tube... Might be another drain that connects to the air intake on the co pilot side of the nose... the air intake for avionics cooling... If you don’t get a good answer... ask the doc... I don’t remember that thing... PP thoughts only... Best regards, -a- Quote
Guest Posted January 15, 2020 Report Posted January 15, 2020 The double vent in the cowl, should have one hose leading to the vent fitting on the mechanical fuel pump on the engine, the other should go to the intake manifold drain fitting on the bottom of the engine. Clarence Quote
skydvrboy Posted January 15, 2020 Author Report Posted January 15, 2020 3 hours ago, M20Doc said: The double vent in the cowl, should have one hose leading to the vent fitting on the mechanical fuel pump on the engine, the other should go to the intake manifold drain fitting on the bottom of the engine. Clarence I can't seem to find any drain firing on the bottom of the engine. Is it supposed to be above the notch on the muffler shroud? Quote
JimB Posted January 15, 2020 Report Posted January 15, 2020 First thing you need to do with an Annual inspection is.... Appendix D to Part 43—Scope and Detail of Items (as Applicable to the Particular Aircraft) To Be Included in Annual and 100-Hour Inspections (a) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall, before that inspection, remove or open all necessary inspection plates, access doors, fairing, and cowling. He shall thoroughly clean the aircraft and aircraft engine. If you don't get an answer by later this afternoon, I will look at my 69 F and should be able to tell you 1 Quote
Marauder Posted January 15, 2020 Report Posted January 15, 2020 I can't seem to find any drain firing on the bottom of the engine. Is it supposed to be above the notch on the muffler shroud? If I got the picture orientation correct, that oil you see on your muffler is coming from the oil filler tube gasket. When you remove the oil dip stick, do you find the whole tube rotates?Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro Quote
skydvrboy Posted January 15, 2020 Author Report Posted January 15, 2020 Oil leak is from the prop governor adapter. We've already fixed that, cleaned the engine and compartment, replaced points in the right mag, and fixed leaks in the engine driven fuel pump. I was only posting questions, not trying to go over everything that needs done. On to the leaking fuel sender. Three of the screws have nylon inserts. One has a nylon washer and one has a metal washer. What should the have? My mechanic thinks they should be metal washers with built in rubber gaskets on the inside. Quote
skydvrboy Posted January 15, 2020 Author Report Posted January 15, 2020 This is the sender unit. Is this the correct gasket? Quote
hammdo Posted January 15, 2020 Report Posted January 15, 2020 Gotta say, I’m enjoying your posts. I too prefer owner assisted and will be watching this thread with great interest! Keep it up! -Don 1 Quote
Guest Posted January 15, 2020 Report Posted January 15, 2020 7 hours ago, skydvrboy said: I can't seem to find any drain firing on the bottom of the engine. Is it supposed to be above the notch on the muffler shroud? The sniffle valve screws into the bottom of the intake plenum, looks like this. Clarence Quote
Guest Posted January 15, 2020 Report Posted January 15, 2020 5 hours ago, skydvrboy said: Oil leak is from the prop governor adapter. We've already fixed that, cleaned the engine and compartment, replaced points in the right mag, and fixed leaks in the engine driven fuel pump. I was only posting questions, not trying to go over everything that needs done. On to the leaking fuel sender. Three of the screws have nylon inserts. One has a nylon washer and one has a metal washer. What should the have? My mechanic thinks they should be metal washers with built in rubber gaskets on the inside. The shouldered nylon insert is correct, it insulated the sender from grounding as the inner and outer senders are in series. Clarence Quote
spistora Posted January 16, 2020 Report Posted January 16, 2020 Where are you doing the annual? K78? Quote
skydvrboy Posted January 16, 2020 Author Report Posted January 16, 2020 2 hours ago, M20Doc said: The sniffle valve screws into the bottom of the intake plenum, looks like this. Perfect. We found that hole later with an plug in it. We’ll get the sniffle valve on order tomorrow. If I understand correctly, this could be a fire risk. The drain line from the fuel pump is clamped to the firewall above the cowl flap. It should work fine where it is but will be relocated to the correct spot. I should have remembered about second fuel sender. I assume the wire to the outer sender has to go on the metal washer and the other 4 are insulated with nylon. 39 minutes ago, spistora said: Where are you doing the annual? K78? Yes, that’s where I’ve done all my annuals. Quote
Guest Posted January 16, 2020 Report Posted January 16, 2020 From the IPC item 29, I don’t know where you’ll find one. They’re a special Mooney part. Clarence Quote
carusoam Posted January 16, 2020 Report Posted January 16, 2020 Nice work skydvrboy! Owner assisted annuals are a great way to... learn what things are supposed to be like... Get things back to be the right way... Remember all this decades later... If you can’t find a replacement sniffle valve... it may be possible to get the internal plastic ball washed up.... Expect that is it full of sticky blue goo... the remnants of 100LL that gets evaporated... Be on the look out for any oil and fuel leaks... nobody likes it when the engine bay lights itself on fire.... Keep up the good work... Best regards, -a- Quote
GDGR Posted January 16, 2020 Report Posted January 16, 2020 15 hours ago, M20Doc said: The double vent in the cowl, should have one hose leading to the vent fitting on the mechanical fuel pump on the engine, the other should go to the intake manifold drain fitting on the bottom of the engine. Clarence Your impeccable knowledge of Mooney’s is almost making me want to fly to Ontario my next annual. Unfortunately, it’s a long walk back to Alberta from there 4 Quote
Guest Posted January 16, 2020 Report Posted January 16, 2020 If you’re crafty, and can’t find a Mooney sniffle valve, you might be able to make one, or buy a Piper one. Mooney S the lower one. Clarence Quote
Immelman Posted January 16, 2020 Report Posted January 16, 2020 Regarding your flap pump... There are two possible types of O-rings used between the pump halves. Some pumps used a big one, some a small one. It is one or the other. When I bought the lasar kit last year, it included both types. The proper o-ring fits in nicely, no squashing, and nothing bulging out the side. Use the smaller one. 1 Quote
skydvrboy Posted January 16, 2020 Author Report Posted January 16, 2020 6 hours ago, Immelman said: Regarding your flap pump... There are two possible types of O-rings used between the pump halves. Some pumps used a big one, some a small one. It is one or the other. When I bought the lasar kit last year, it included both types. The proper o-ring fits in nicely, no squashing, and nothing bulging out the side. Use the smaller one. That's reassuring. I inventoried numbered and sorted all the parts that came in the kits. I then highlighted on the diagram where each one wen't, so I'm confident my kit didn't include both sizes. The ones we found "-012" seemed to fit perfectly, no bulging out the sides and the two metal halves fit nice and snug. Quote
ohdub Posted January 16, 2020 Report Posted January 16, 2020 15 hours ago, GLJA said: Your impeccable knowledge of Mooney’s is almost making me want to fly to Ontario my next annual. Unfortunately, it’s a long walk back to Alberta from there @GLJANo need to walk, Westjet has service from Kitchener (where the Doc's shop is located) to Calgary 1 Quote
GDGR Posted January 16, 2020 Report Posted January 16, 2020 2 hours ago, ohdub said: @GLJANo need to walk, Westjet has service from Kitchener (where the Doc's shop is located) to Calgary I should've dropped it off when I was in London last year for a week, and had Doc do it while I was at head office. Quote
skydvrboy Posted January 17, 2020 Author Report Posted January 17, 2020 Today's question, seat rails. My passenger side seat rail has one more set of holes than my pilot side. These holes are nearly as far back as the seat will go. This allows the seat to catch before it goes too far back. On the pilot side without these holes the seat goes all the way back. More than once I've pulled the seat of the rails when alluding forward. Which set is correct? Is there something that is missing that should keep the seat from going all the way back? My IA didn't like the idea of drilling another set of holes in the pilot rail to make it match. With that answer I didn't bother asking about another set of holes half way back. Passenger side Pilot side Quote
skydvrboy Posted January 17, 2020 Author Report Posted January 17, 2020 One more question that came up as I was leaving. We have resealed the windshield at each annual and the seal has cracked again. Any ideas on how to permanently fix this? It looks like the windshield was trimmed too much on install. Quote
skydvrboy Posted January 20, 2020 Author Report Posted January 20, 2020 Well, I wish I had a better summary to post that would provide closure to this thread. In the end, my week off work was up and the annual wasn't quite finished. All-in-all a very good annual though, and will most certainly my least expensive yet. Only one thing was "found" during the inspection that wasn't already part of my squawk list, a cracked alternator bracket. IA ordered a replacement for $50 and I installed it. I won't go into the list of things we fixed as it would be about a page long! Punch list of incomplete items: window sealant (still trying to figure out how to fix permanently), 1/8" ball in power boost cable, lube gear & rod ends, close up all the panels. Big thanks to @M20Doc and everyone else who provided advice and assistance! 2 Quote
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