brndiar Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 The same Sender at 77C? Should I remove the cover? With full Left Tank drop Fuel from the fuselage. thanks, milos Quote
carusoam Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 another thing for @rbridges to look at while in there... Get a really good look at the short piece of rubber hose in the picture... Mine needed replacement at the same time... Rubber hoses from the 60s didn’t have the chemical resistance of a fuel hose today.... They got brittle and liked to crack... probably a few dollars in parts costs... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a- Quote
rbridges Posted January 1, 2020 Author Report Posted January 1, 2020 14 minutes ago, carusoam said: another thing for @rbridges to look at while in there... Get a really good look at the short piece of rubber hose in the picture... Mine needed replacement at the same time... Rubber hoses from the 60s didn’t have the chemical resistance of a fuel hose today.... They got brittle and liked to crack... probably a few dollars in parts costs... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a- I didn't actually inspect it by touch, but it looked pretty good with no signs of leakage. 1 Quote
carusoam Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 The old rubber had a tendency to swell and look like it needed replacement... and was crunchy when squeezed... The hose clamps probably carried a lot of rust to show their age and materials of construction... that single hose clamp is a serious part of a good flight... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic. Best regards, -a- Quote
Marauder Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 Yeah, I was a little surprised, too. Are the gaskets replaced when bladders are installed or is that an on condition replacement? I looked back at my emails and it looks like it was 2011 when they were installed. I’m pretty sure they replaced the gaskets when they installed the bladders. I’m also pretty sure my cork gaskets were replaced several times in the 28 years the bladders have been in.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro 1 Quote
PJClark Posted January 3, 2020 Report Posted January 3, 2020 this may be really helpful for me--I've been smelling gas since I got mine back from the Avionics shop. Are these senders in roughly the same place on an M20K? and--just tighten the screws, or remove the sender and replace a seal? does the tank need to be empty for the second one? sorry Im a maintenance noob. I'll probably just give some tips to the local mechanic who is not real Mooney savvy yet... thx Quote
ArtVandelay Posted January 3, 2020 Report Posted January 3, 2020 Look for telltale blue stains before you do anything.Tom Quote
EricJ Posted January 3, 2020 Report Posted January 3, 2020 50 minutes ago, PJClark said: this may be really helpful for me--I've been smelling gas since I got mine back from the Avionics shop. Are these senders in roughly the same place on an M20K? and--just tighten the screws, or remove the sender and replace a seal? does the tank need to be empty for the second one? sorry Im a maintenance noob. I'll probably just give some tips to the local mechanic who is not real Mooney savvy yet... thx For the most part, yes, they're in the same place, but the K has two senders per tank, and the other ones are outboard in the wing. You can get to them via an access panel underneath the wing about mid-way out. If the outer one is leaking you can wind up with fumes in the cabin as well, if it leaks enough that it runs down inside the leading edge and drips in the cabin a bit. There should be blue stains on the inner or outer if they're leaking. You don't need to take them out or drain fuel to carefully tighten the screws a bit. If you want to remove the inner one the tank will need to be mostly empty, but that's kind of a last-ditch measure if it won't stop leaking otherwise. 1 1 Quote
FlyingDude Posted March 21, 2021 Report Posted March 21, 2021 (edited) Hi, What happens if you spread permatex on both sides of the cork? The purpose is to stop leaks. The fear is what if small chunks of it break free and find their way to the engine... Edited March 21, 2021 by FlyingDude Quote
A64Pilot Posted March 21, 2021 Report Posted March 21, 2021 Someone mentioned a silicone gasket, if available I’d rather go that way. Quote
FlyingDude Posted March 21, 2021 Report Posted March 21, 2021 Would permatex chip off and fall into the tank? Quote
carusoam Posted March 21, 2021 Report Posted March 21, 2021 Permatex is a rubbery material... So chipping probably isn’t going to happen... Excess sealant of any type usually gets cleaned up... so it doesn’t show up somewhere else... So... yes on both.... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a- Quote
Andy95W Posted March 21, 2021 Report Posted March 21, 2021 Slow drying, non-hardening. The cork gasket is designed to seal dry with proper torque, but the Permatex doesn’t seem to hurt anything. I’ve seen some surfaces that were scratched up pretty good where people scraped off the old gasket. The Permatex would probably help that kind of situation nicely. Quote
Will.iam Posted March 21, 2021 Report Posted March 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Andy95W said: Slow drying, non-hardening. The cork gasket is designed to seal dry with proper torque, but the Permatex doesn’t seem to hurt anything. I’ve seen some surfaces that were scratched up pretty good where people scraped off the old gasket. The Permatex would probably help that kind of situation nicely. I bought some of that to fix a leaky screw under the wing in a panel area. Did not read the directions about leave both sides to dry for 2 mins before fastening back together and now I have a bigger leak than when I started. Will have to drain the tank and try again. 1 Quote
0TreeLemur Posted March 21, 2021 Report Posted March 21, 2021 5 hours ago, FlyingDude said: Hi, What happens if you spread permatex on both sides of the cork? The purpose is to stop leaks. The fear is what if small chunks of it break free and find their way to the engine... My A&P did this today. Both sides. Thin film. Quote
47U Posted March 21, 2021 Report Posted March 21, 2021 9 hours ago, Will.iam said: I bought some of that to fix a leaky screw under the wing in a panel area. Did not read the directions about leave both sides to dry for 2 mins before fastening back together and now I have a bigger leak than when I started. Will have to drain the tank and try again. Also, cleaning the countersink surfaces of the screw and panel really well (shiny) and waiting a few days before putting fuel back into the tank may increase your chances for success. (I apologize if I’m being Capt Obvious.) 1 Quote
carusoam Posted March 22, 2021 Report Posted March 22, 2021 See if you can find the directions... (Elon Musk’s boat... - just read the directions... ) It might mention how long it needs to be exposed to the air... The oxygen probably starts a cross-linking reaction so the rubber sets... If it gets applied too quickly, it’s like leaving it back in the tube... where it was going to stay soft for years... Something has to initiate the reaction... Once it gets going... it will get completely set over time... fuel tank sealant uses chemical mixing to start the cross-linking reaction... where we get an hour or so before it is too late to apply... PP thoughts and generalizations, not a rubber chemist... Best regards, -a- Quote
Will.iam Posted March 22, 2021 Report Posted March 22, 2021 Thanks for all the suggestions. I did wait 4 days before putting in gas so i did cover that part. Just didn’t give the permtex enough time to dry before i put the screw back in. Quote
JWJR Posted March 22, 2021 Report Posted March 22, 2021 If your weeping fuel from screws on the under wining tank access panel try this.No need to drain the tank. Use the brush and drip a bit on some glass or cardboard . Let it sit for an hour or so until it firms up( it never fully hardens). Back out the screw and some fuel will weep just little but not gush. Use the permatex brush and coat the threads with the permatex you allowed to sit on the cardboard to firm a little. The fuel will dilute it a little but this is ok. Tighten the screw until firm. Try to do this a few days prior to any flying. I’ve done this repair a few times on different screws. All were successful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
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