Marvel Mystery oil

[Yetti]

8 minutes ago, jetdriven said:

I thought it was supposed to be a .4995 reamer for the IO360?

looks like I dropped a 9

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02558500

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/compressor.php?gclid=CjwKCAiArOnUBRBJEiwAX0rG_TX6m6_NZfIcKhItAKT9U80Jy0zU6vIrUj33R7wuRTMYut6n3vMZghoCMgEQAvD_BwE

[Yetti]

couple of these to help maneuver the valve back in

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/93813582

taking an exhaust pipe or induction tube off would giver more room to work than trying to use the spark plug holes

Edited March 4, 2018 by Yetti

[INA201]

I've done a lot of work on small engines and used to use Sea Foam quite a bit.  The results in this video are very similar to results I would see.  It smells kind of kerosene like and somewhat like carburetor cleaner.  I would never leave it in the oil or in the fuel as it works very fast and well for cleaning buildup in carburetors and overall internal engine cleaning. This may be similar to MMO.  It would be tricky to spray into the aircraft  intake but running it in the oil on the ground before an oil change may yield some surprising results. I'm not recommending it on a 25-30 AMU engine but may work just fine.  

https://seafoamsales.com/

 

[INA201]

 

[jetdriven]

If you hydrolock the piston with Berrymans B12 Chemtool (round metal pint or square gallon can, not round paint can) it will dissolve the carbon from the rings. 

Edited March 4, 2018 by jetdriven

[bradp]

 

Just now, rogerl said:

Just to be clear: jd being a usual fount of knowledge, suggesting what amounts to an engine fup* is either sarcastic or typographically errant (!) ??

*https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrolock

It’s a purposeful hydro lock.  I’ve *heard of* MMO used to unstick a piston ring.  You put a small bit in the offending cylinder, turn the prop by hand with the spark plugs installed on the compression stroke and that hydro lock pushes the solvent up into the rings.  Un hydrolock the cylinder the next morning - drain the solvent and you’re good to go.  

 

Ive seen YouTube videos of people doing the same thing with a car engine but with multiple cylinders and using the starter motor to turn the crank which is quite risky to end up as an engine f up.  Doing the procedure above by hand is gentle and won’t harm anything. 

[ArtVandelay]

Sadly I had great difficulty finding a mechanic/facility to do this after experiencing morning sickness at startup during a trip to Colorado. In and around the 4th largest city in the U.S. not a single mechanic I contacted was amenable to performing this simple work, not even my regular (old school) A&P/IA. Having never done it before it took me a day and a half. I’d expect a shop familiar with the process to take 4-6 hours, but that’s just a guess.

I have the same problem, but my engine is past TBO. My hangar fairy doesn’t have the tools or the experience so I’m left with MMO.

[EricJ]

23 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said:

It seems like adding a cup or so of avgas to your oil would probably work as well as MMO to loosen the gunk. It is just the CB in me talking.

 

Since a quart of MMO costs less than $4 at Wal-Mart, I'd say that'd definitely be a CB move.   

[Dream to fly]

5 minutes ago, EricJ said:

Since a quart of MMO costs less than $4 at Wal-Mart, I'd say that'd definitely be a CB move.   

Agreed its definitely a cheap fix that could cost you...

[Dream to fly]

It would be better to not add avgas to the crankcase.  A diluted crankcase is very bad for high pressure contact surfaces.   because the dilution strips away the needed cushion and lubrication needed to prevent metal to metal contact.  Adding MMO or kerosene or even transmission fluid is not going to hurt the engine in moderate doses.  However three things need to be addressed before you start playing chemist. 

First if you add too much or upset the chemical balance of the oil that is in the crankcase you can and will damage the bearing surfaces.  The bearing surfaces as well as the ring faces can not use kerosene grade lubricant without metal damage.  Oil has a main job to reduce heat build up then lubricate.  Kerosene is used to create heat then lubricate.

Second if you are not sure how dirty your engine is or if it is a high time engine adding MMO or other cocktail could prove damaging because these solvents/oil are just that.  They will clean and dissolve carbon and dirt and your filter may not be able to catch all of the dirt and the bypass will open.  When that happens you have oil with dirt suspended in solution traveling into all the small little ports and possibly clogging them up. 

Third some of the newer oils are NOT compatible with MMO or other kerosene based solvents.  They will stay separated and will cause air bubbles to form in the base oil.  This leads to rapid lubrication failure and heat.

The best way to use MMO or other additive is when an engine is overhauled.  At that point it is a preventative that keeps the engine clean.  Otherwise you are playing Russian roulette.

just my half cent.  JOE

[N201MKTurbo]

2 hours ago, EricJ said:

Since a quart of MMO costs less than $4 at Wal-Mart, I'd say that'd definitely be a CB move.   

VS, $0.28 for a cup of Avgas and you don't have to go get it.

As far as it ruining your engine, Airplanes used to do it as normal operation in colder climates. Quite a few piston military aircraft and civilian airliners had systems for pumping avgas into their oil sumps before shutdown to reduce the viscosity of the oil so they could start the engine when it was very cold. The FAA power plant mechanics manual even mentions these systems. There are STCs out there to add these systems to quite a few GA engines. 

Nobody uses these system any more because there are multi-viscosity oils available that accomplish the same thing.

With this being said , Avgas is probably the only approved additive you can put in your oil. Weather it works as an effective engine flush is debatable.

[ArtVandelay]

I add a 1/2 quart of MMO, fly for an hour or so, then immediately change the oil including restarting the engine to check for leaks and bathe engine parts in new fresh oil. I can’t quantify it but it does seem to help, the engine simply sounds better...wishful thinking? Maybe.