Annual Questions - ‘65 E

[Pictreed]

I need to replace my Magnaflight starter.  My prop turns to the compression stroke and stops. New battery too.

Looking at the Sky-Tec 149-12HT.  Anything else I need to know?

What kind of baffling modifications will be needed? 

I’m about to start the annual so this would be a good time to do it.  Just not sure what I need to look out for.

 

Tim

[Guest]

No mods required for that starter.

Clarence

Edited January 6, 2018 by M20Doc

[Bart Chilcott]

Tim, are you certain your battery is up to the job?  I put a new Gil battery in my E and it did the same thing. It would stop on the compression stroke when starting.   After more investigation, I found my alt belt needed tightening even though I was showing 14.1 V in flight.  I also bought a battery maintainer specifically for the battery.  After tightening the belt to proper tension and adding the battery minder, the issue cleared up. 

[Pictreed]

Not sure what the exact problem is but I know that starter may be reaching its service life so that will be the first step. 

Next will be looking at the alternator and regulator.  

I have adjusted the belt but it’s had the same problem (starting) through two batteries now. Mine are Concord. 

[Bart Chilcott]

I understand.  I did find a great way to check belt tension without buying an expensive belt tensiometer.  I used a dial type torque wrench from Snap-on and a socket on the pully bolt.  If you hold the prop still and turn the alternator pully with the torque wrench, you can pretty precisely measure belt slippage.  This is one of the methods Lycomong recommends and is pretty easy to do.  I set mine at 130 inch lbs.  A click type torque wrench really isn’t good for this but a dial type is perfect as it will show the amount of torque required to slip.  The second needle on the dial stays at the highest torque achieved.  The accuracy on this type of wrench is 2%. 

[Pictreed]

I'll have to check that out.  When I first got my plane the belt was slipping and I had to tighten it.

[Bart Chilcott]

1 hour ago, Pictreed said:

I'll have to check that out.  When I first got my plane the belt was slipping and I had to tighten it.

I thought mine was tight too when it wasn’t.  A lot of battery draining was occurring during taxi do to improper belt tension.  Worth looking into. I almost bought a brand new starter because of this. 

[Pictreed]

I’m assuming the HT?  Or LS

[Pictreed]

Here’s the two starters.  Has anyone clearances their sheet metal for the new starter?

[Pictreed]

Sorry about the rotated pic

[Guest]

52 minutes ago, Pictreed said:

Here’s the two starters.  Has anyone clearances their sheet metal for the new starter?

I’m sorry, I misread the starter part number in your earlier post.  If you are using the starter in the picture you will have to modified your baffles.  If you use a 149NL you don’t need to modify.

[Yetti]

You can get some of the heavy duty felt from spruce and tie it in there .   also so dremel tool work to make it fit.

[Pictreed]

Thanks, I was just wondering about the felt.

Clarence, Lycoming said the bigger one will fit the carb version but will hit something on the fuel injection system.  Were they wrong?

FYI I called LASAR about the boot between the Power Boost and the throttle body and they said about $300 so I need to make sure I really need it. 

[carusoam]

Felt is so 1965...  silicone seals are probably better for the application...

we have a silicone seal guy around here if that would help...

Best regards,

-a-

[Yetti]

I used some thick rubber belting that I had laying around for the B&C starter.

[Guest]

21 hours ago, Pictreed said:

Thanks, I was just wondering about the felt.

Clarence, Lycoming said the bigger one will fit the carb version but will hit something on the fuel injection system.  Were they wrong?

FYI I called LASAR about the boot between the Power Boost and the throttle body and they said about $300 so I need to make sure I really need it. 

I don’t believe there is an issue fitting the 149NL in, after all the original Prestolite was even bigger.

Clarence

[Pictreed]

I changed the topic name. 

I found this...hmmm.  The guy I bought it from was helping me take the panels off.  He didn’t know it was expired.

 

[RobertGary1]

17 hours ago, Pictreed said:

I changed the topic name. 

I found this...hmmm.  The guy I bought it from was helping me take the panels off.  He didn’t know it was expired.

 

Nothing expires. Just a suggestion. Your choice. 

-Robert

[N6758N]

As Robert said, it's not required for a part 91 bird...

[Pictreed]

I think I’d rather fix things as I go instead of waiting for a failure but thanks for posting that. 

Beaides, if I ever get that Ovation I want the new owner to know I did what I could to make it reliable. 

[Yetti]

It's a windshield wiper motor and some carbon vanes.   If it works now it will be working 10 years from now.  Test and verify operation.

[carusoam]

 

What is that?  Looks like a Weldon fuel pump... for intermittent use only...

when it comes to age vs hours vs condition for part 91 ops, you may want to get a feel for what is right for you.

A similar example.... Swapping out a 15amu prop because it has an expiration date can get expensive quickly... 20amu Engines don't usually get tossed out when they hit 2000 hours.

If that were a vac pump, how many hours are on it?  500 or more consider replacement...

If you only fly VFR, not as critical... and you still have a back-up gyro...

Realistically... if that is the old style fuel pump, you may want to upgrade to the new continuous duty able pump. Search this site for the pump’s name and see what falls out....

PP Thinking out loud, not a CFI or mechanic.

Best regards,

-a-

[Guest]

4 hours ago, carusoam said:

What is that?  Looks like a dukes fuel pump for intermittent use only...

when it comes to age vs hours vs condition for part 91 ops, you may want to get a feel for what is right for you.

A similar example.... Swapping out a 15amu prop because it has an expiration date can get expensive quickly... 20amu Engines don't usually get tossed out when they hit 2000 hours.

If that were a vac pump, how many hours are on it?  500 or more consider replacement...

If you only fly VFR, not as critical... and you still have a back-up gyro...

Realistically... if that is the old style fuel pump, you may want to upgrade to the new continuous duty able pump. Search this site for the pump’s name and see what falls out....

PP Thinking out loud, not a CFI or mechanic.

Best regards,

-a-

Are you thinking of the Weldon fuel pump?

Clarence

[carusoam]

Clarence,

I should have checked my work on that one....

Duke appears to be the better one compared to Weldon...

Note to OP: Check which pump you have.  See if there is a better one... you may want to install the stronger one, if there is one, while you are doing this...

Weldon vs. Duke one is better than the other.  To change from one to the other requires some plumbing.  It’s not a drop in...

https://mooneyspace.com/search/

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic.   

Best regards,

-a-

 

[Yetti]

I thought it was a backup vacuum pump