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Posted
On ‎2‎/‎22‎/‎2016 at 5:28 PM, Tony Armour said:

Remember 1/8 turn for 2" of boost, so says the manual. Look under the engine from the drivers side. 

That is on a vertical plane, the square head will be facing you out to the side, That is the gear door behind it painted maroon/gold

 

 

image.jpg

Tony, it looks like the safety tie will allow it to loosen....just saying....

Edit - just saw where AwfulCharlie caught this already..sorry for the redundancy

 

  • Like 1
Posted
On February 25, 2016 at 2:57 PM, LANCECASPER said:

Please do. 

I will. Rarely do I have help. Every fastener exept the top back on each side can be loosened and the cowl stays in place with just a little bottom center pressure for safety. Then kneeling on one side undo that fastener, come down behind/under the prop while holding upward pressure, on the knees slightly on the other side and undo that fastener, upward pressure still has the cowling in place. Both hands supporting the cowling and lower it down, Back into place is almost a reverse procedure. Get those two back top fasteners in and then gentle pressure will allow to get the other rear fasteners in. The hardest thing going back on is keeping the two rubber hoses sticking thru the hole. Really, I had rather do it myself (no surprise there) that way you don't have two people fighting each other. 

Posted (edited)
On February 25, 2016 at 11:52 AM, mike_elliott said:

Tony, it looks like the safety tie will allow it to loosen....just saying....

Edit - just saw where AwfulCharlie caught this already..sorry for the redundancy

 

Like I mentioned before, this is the before picture BUT I bet the after is the same....because that's one reason I made the picture.... To put it back like it was "supposed" to be. LOL

If you look at the width of my finger you can see how long the twists "aren't". To rotate counter clockwise it would have to push against two different one inch twists. Those will be pretty stiff and I don't think it would. I will certainly be looking into how folks do it better. Some snooping over at Joey Coles shop ahead. I deliver home made cookies to them often as well as my IA over in Lafayette (more often) I make it so the like seeing me showing up haha

I believe my throttle fuel pump micro switch has moved (or is bad/ or wire ?) and need to look at it one day. I can check the safety wire, do my cowl removal video and check the switch all at once. Minor issue but I ALWAYS prime using full throttle so it's pretty aggrivating to me it not working. A couple years back it slipped a little and just needed repositioning.

Edited by Tony Armour
Posted

Bravo pilots help me out.  If you are not applying full power on longer runways, how are you getting the fuel boost pump yo turn on automatically?  Mine doesn't  turn on until The throttle is almost full forward.  Thoughts?  

Posted
13 hours ago, carusoam said:

When/Why do Bravo pilots use partial throttle on T/O?

Best regards,

-a-

I don't. Always full throttle and then dial back to 34/24 as soon as practicable after lift off and gear retraction.

  • Like 2
Posted
25 minutes ago, Bravoman said:

I don't. Always full throttle and then dial back to 34/24 as soon as practicable after lift off and gear retraction.

34/24 after 1K feet, my safe return to the airport altitude.

Posted

I was just writing a piece regarding power output tests in another NA thread...

Two things I learned along the way that Mooney pilots test prior to lift-off:

1) During the run-up: EGT rises evenly on all cylinders during single mag checks.  Proving All spark plugs and valves are working...

2) On T/O roll: Cross Check Max MP, RPM, and FF.  Proving Max power is being produced...

This isn't usually taught in basic flight training.  The Equipment is not usually present.

Of course, with some TC'd powerplants, these numbers are little less steady as MP grows with the turbo spinning up over time.

 

A partial throttle T/O run would miss out on this FT power test prior to lift-off.  

It also misses out on having some knowns removed from the process, like the FT fuel pump being on.  Similar to the second jet in the C's carb.

There are some MSers that have the time, skills, professional background, and training to create new procedures while reviewing/memorizing all the documents available.

The LB Mooney POHs are well developed compared to the short body Mooneys.  Is there compelling reasoning to develop a proper partial throttle T/O procedure?  

Just trying to make sense of the complex Mooney world.  I am only a PP.

Best regards,

-a-

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Hi guys. I realize this is an old post. This is my first reply to one of these. I had a similar problem. Previously had 37.3" on the roll typically. After a long New England winter with several months of minimal flying, my MP on the roll was 33.5". The plane seemed to perform well otherwise but it certainly got my attention. I had several different mechanics look at it and come up with several different convoluted theories spending many thousands for useless the useless theories. On a day recently an 87 year old retired mechanic without even looking at the airplane said he'd bet it was a leaky intake manifold gasket. He was right. I'm back up to 37.3" on the roll.

Posted

It's July. Not cold. Also looks like 37.3 is really close to that envelope. Quite a bit closer than a plummet to 33.5 that it had never been at. Also aircraft POH on takeoff calls normal between 36" and 38" on launch.

Posted

Normal T/O MAP should not be 38” - that’s the top limit and if you’re achieving that on a regular basis, your density controller requires adjustment, or you have other problems. Awful_Charlie posted the maintenance graph that shows where the MAP should fall at T/O power. 36"ish MAP is normal, and you’ll find that equals a little over 100% power according to the HP performance graphs.

That said, (in this case) an inch or two here or there doesn’t really matter much, especially for short periods of time. I use full power (2550/37) until I clean up gear and flaps, then 2500/34 all the way to altitude. The extra 100 RPM on the climb adds a 100 to the climb FPM, is well within operating range and allows me to push the nose over a bit for better cooling. I cruise anywhere from 2400/32 to 2400/29.

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