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Posted

Yes sir shower of sparks, I've since read up on it a bit and it could be the ignition switch as well. I guess it is gonna depend on what component is bad as to what it's gonna cost in the end. I have noticed it fires sometimes as soon as I release the key and also on occation pops backwards when the key is released.

Posted

Kicking back is bad. It can break some expensive stuff. The shower of sparks box itself is a coil with a set of points and a capacitor. I just replaced the points and cap in the one I have. You can google it and find the overhaul manual online. The capacitor pn has changed.

It could also be the retard points in the mag, but I would start with the shower of sparks box itself.

Posted

Kicking back is bad. It can break some expensive stuff. The shower of sparks box itself is a coil with a set of points and a capacitor. I just replaced the points and cap in the one I have. You can google it and find the overhaul manual online. The capacitor pn has changed.

It could also be the retard points in the mag, but I would start with the shower of sparks box itself.

Yes kick back is bad. Since it wants to fire as soon as you release the key it appears that you are not getting any fire (spark) from the shower of sparks retarded timing circuit.

Sounds to me like one of 3 things

1. shower of sparks vibrator box

2. retard points

3. ignition switch

1. Check that you are getting power to the SOS box when the key is turned to that position

2. Do you hear the box vibrating when you turn the key?

3. Check the box as stated above

4. Check the mag to see if the retard points are good.

Posted

The shower of sparks box has 2 terminals on it. One is voltage in and the other is BO which is the pulsed output. When you turn the key to start, voltage is applied to the voltage in terminal. The SOS box chops this voltage up and pulses it out on the BO terminal. It then goes back to the BO terminal on the switch. The switch has a set of internal contacts that Connect BO to the LR terminals together on the switch when in the start position. The pulses then travels from the LR terminal of the switch down the 3rd P lead to the retard breaker input on the left mag. This mag has a separate set of contacts that is retarded 25 deg to allow the mag to produce a SOS as the piston comes by TDC. The switch also grounds out the right mag during this process. Check all 3 P-Leads closely, one may be broken.

This system will fire the plugs even if the prop is stationary if any of the pistons are near top dead center so be very careful if troubleshooting it. I always remove one plug from each cylinder to remove any possibility of an unexpected engine start up.

Posted

Well, it's the retard points. Now I have another decision, the mags are about 350 hours since OH. Replace points? OH? Or new mags, I only throw this one out to see what comments I hear. A hangar neighbor told me he always buys new mags not OH because he had a freshly OH mag fail over Lake Michigan, says he buys new mags at 500hrs and never goes with remans anymore. Comments?

Posted

It hasnt happened to me, because I havent had an engine last 500 hours. LOP :rolleyes: . Anyways, I think the only difference is the shaft bearings get changed during an OH while a 500-hr they are inspected. With Bendix, they are rumored to go forever like this. With Slicks, every other time they need a couple parts like a coil or a capacitor, which makes it cheaper to buy new when you need parts. I havent found many mechanics or pilots who think too highly of Slicks.

Posted

If its only points and capacitor, and everything else appears to be in good condition they can be swapped out relatively cheaply compared to the cost of a new mag. However, if you are going to need a new coil and distributor block also you will quickly approach the cost of a new mag which was about $850 a few weeks ago when I looked. I ended up freshing the old one up a bit and putting it back on.

I also looked at the Electroair system a bit. Its expensive, but if your needing a new retard breaker mag, SOS box and harness the price is a little easier to swallow. There were several people on www.vansairforce.com that had problems with them in the past, so I decided to wait a while and see.

Posted

I had a similar problem once, the retard breaker wire was chafing inside the mag and had shorted to the case, I was away from home and needed to get going. I finaly found out that if I cranked the engine and let go of the key it would start when the regular points were engaged. The fix was to re-route the retard breaker wire in the mag, I didn't even have to remove the mag.

Posted

Well the mags are gone to be repaired/OH depending on what's bad, I am just glad to know the end is in sight. I have been without a Mooney at my disposal for almost 3 weeks now and it is HORRIBLE! I wish I could...........buy into a partnership on a second Mooney. Shhhhhh If the lil woman heard that she'd KILL ME!

But think about it, own 100% of a vintage Mooney for those nice little getaways that are just a few hundred miles, and the weekend runabout, and also have a partnership in an Acclaim or Bravo for those serious long trips! The best part? Never be without a Mooney to get the fix a Mooniac needs! Now back to reality, once the mags are fixed it's off to have the 430Waas/HSI upgrade. Guess it'll be a long time till I get my baby back. :(

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Yes sir shower of sparks, I've since read up on it a bit and it could be the ignition switch as well. I guess it is gonna depend on what component is bad as to what it's gonna cost in the end. I have noticed it fires sometimes as soon as I release the key and also on occation pops backwards when the key is released.

Don't rule out the ignition circuit breaker either I had an intermittent circuit breaker took me a little while to find. :-(

The Garwin SOS (p/n 31-324) broke so I but replaced with Bendix SOS (p/n 10-176487-121) that I bought from aircraft spruce and yeah i the was expensive for the components inside of it. i think it was $200 to $300 about 5 years ago.

Posted

Well.........got the mags back, installed, timed properly and, crank crank crank......nothin! So we pulled all the plugs fired by the left mag, rotated up to TDC, disconnected the starter solenoid wire. When I held the switch full right and pushed in, the mechanic rotated the prop back and forth and you guessed it, no spark at all. Next he disconnected all the "P" leads and screwed in a harness he had that goes to some test thing. He left it disconnected and grounded out the R & L "P" leads leaving the LR lead open. Spark plugs reinstalled, turned it over and it did'nt go 2 blades till it fired right up! Guess its a 10-357-210-1 keyswitch. The mags were bad too the bearings were out of one, all the points were bad. He also said the lobes were rusty and had worn the rub blocks down on the points. So in the end? I had both mags OH and now a new Igniton switch. The silver lining? I still have a fuel miser so once it's back in shape I can save enough fuel money to pay for all this. (thats what I've told the wife, and yes she gave "that" look)

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