Anti-seize on -53S fuel drains - yes or no?

[SeaLand]

Greetings fellow MS’ers -

Putting this out to the crowd of experts.  Replacing my fuel drains and getting mixed messages during the research about whether to put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads.  SAF-AIR’s installation instructions state: “Before installing the fuel drain valve a coating of seal lube should be applied the threads. The drain valve should then be installed, and tightened until the outer o-ring is snug against the mating surface. check for leaks.”  
 

Have seen comments to not use anti-seize due to the proximity of the threads to the drain holes causing a potential blockage later.  Others say the anti-seize can help stop leaks (or reduce the possibility of them).  Which one is it?  
 

SAF-AIR recommends the use of SAF-T-EZE Regular Anti-Seize.  Are there other (more readily available) and comparable anti-seize options?  Would anything that qualifies under MIL Spec G-6032D or PRF-907E work?

Cheers!

[Jsno]

Fuel lube is like a thick sticky silicone.  Fuel will not wash it off. I used it when I installed my drains, no problem. Do not use any other kind of anti-seize.  Just a light coat on the threads and seal.

[PT20J]

The SAF-AIR drains have a really strong spring making the really hard to drain.

The OEM  company is out of business.

Someone here found another replacement more like the originals.  Maybe they will come along and refresh my memory.

[N201MKTurbo]

https://curtisvalves.com/

They are made at my home drome.

BTW, I had a leaking sump drain that would not stop leaking. I removed the top cover from the tank, drilled out the nut plate that the drain valve goes into, cleaned all the metal around it and riveted it back in with sealant covered rivets. Leak gone. 

Redoing the drain valve took about 15 minutes. Redoing the cover plate took over an hour.

[N201MKTurbo]

I just looked at their website. They are making the turbo check valves! Oh happy days!

[SeaLand]

So…. are we (you) saying the Curtis CCA-53 is superior to the SAF SA53S and that should be the choice?  

It’s not that the old F391’s on the ship weren’t working or that there was a leak, it’s a matter of new owner confidence with new parts due to a serious lack of effective Mx from the prior owner and his A&P.  The 391’s will go into the spare go-bag.

Just had the fuel selector rehabbed by DMAXX - should be getting back today via UPS.  Ultimately, if the small things I (or my A&P) touches can be replaced at nominal CB costs that I can get now, I have no issue with that as it’s good insurance for when it’s needed.  Not talking an entire parts store - just a few of the most common items…..like fuel drains and whatever small tube of appropriate anti-seize I should have with them.

Cheers!

[SeaLand]

Thanx @Jsno, @PT20J and @N201MKTurbo.  CCA-53’s and EZ Turn lube (substitute to fuel lube) on order.

[jamesm]

I tried saf-air  but was have troubles with thread engagement wound up finding a fuel drain made by MDI <I think that was name>. LASAR sold in the  late 90's/early 2000's not sure if they still the  either SI / SB kit, which had you re-located fuel drain and you riveted in specially modified nut plate and the MDI fuel drains.  I think we use Fuel Lube or EZ Turn lube which my IA suggested.

don't quote me on this my memory can't sketchy at times especially passwords and user login's but it looks like chief sells them.

Double check thread diameter and pitch but I seem to recall F391-53S to be correct.

https://www.chiefaircraft.com/mdi-f391-53s.html

Note: I have been told that their are fuel drain out there that may fit but  there drain hole in the fuel value body is higher which means it may take a lot water at the bottom of the tank before see it.  which would be really bad.

Hope this helps,

James '67C

 

 

[Shadrach]

6 hours ago, PT20J said:

The SAF-AIR drains have a really strong spring making the really hard to drain.

The OEM  company is out of business.

Someone here found another replacement more like the originals.  Maybe they will come along and refresh my memory.

I hadn’t noticed they were significantly stiffer. Maybe need to compare them side by side. 
The upside to the SAF-AIR SA53S over the OEM F391-53S is that the SAF-AIR is field serviceable. The OEM unit is twice the cost and becomes a paper weight when an O-ring fails.

[EricJ]

24 minutes ago, Shadrach said:

I hadn’t noticed they were significantly stiffer. Maybe need to compare them side by side. 
The upside to the SAF-AIR SA53S over the OEM F391-53S is that the SAF-AIR is field serviceable. The OEM unit is twice the cost and becomes a paper weight when an O-ring fails.

I had one of each for a while and the SAF-AIR is way stiffer than the old ones.   Now I have two SAF-AIRs and just make sure I've had breakfast before taking fuel samples.

[Shadrach]

32 minutes ago, EricJ said:

I had one of each for a while and the SAF-AIR is way stiffer than the old ones.   Now I have two SAF-AIRs and just make sure I've had breakfast before taking fuel samples.

I wonder if one can retrofit the spring from an old leaky F391 into a new saf-airs

[Pinecone]

So, my plane is in getting Cies senders among a lot more.

Worthwhile to put in the CCA-53s since the tanks will be drained?

[EricJ]

2 minutes ago, Pinecone said:

So, my plane is in getting Cies senders among a lot more.

Worthwhile to put in the CCA-53s since the tanks will be drained?

Are your current ones leaky or causing other problems?   If not, I'd say no.    They're easy to change out when need be.    You don't really even need to drain the tank (I didn't).

[Pinecone]

I understand drains don't NEED the tanks drained, but it makes it a bit less messy. 

[N201MKTurbo]

I can change the drain valves with full tanks and probably lose less than 1/2 cup of fuel. It has a lot to do with how coordinated you are. At 67, I have good days and bad days.

BTW, you will lose more than that draining the tank.

[Pinecone]

I am not draining the tanks.  The avionics shop it.