AIREMATT

This might answer your questions. I found to be very easy to use and edit to suit any model or Weight.

What about this? https://www.castlepackspower.com/Images_Content/Site1/Files/MSDSCastle/C2010-Plexo.pdf

Just. Homemade Numbers app spreadsheet on the iPad. My C isn’t too complicated though.

Here’s what I have if it helps. SAL12-70 Alternat Install and ICA Instructions.pdf

If you run the electrical system enough to run the battery down to 12v and then run the engine and alternator showing 14.2v for a while is your battery actually charging back up? Is it possible the alternator output isn’t getting to the battery and that’s why the warning light is on? Do you have the manual for the Plane Power alternator? It might help checking the warning lamp circuit. I have it if you need it.

It’s been like that all winter in MN and ND…forecasters up here would be more successful playing the roulette wheel this winter.

And you can’t opt out of most of those nanny sensors even if you want to…

Remember Valujet in the Everglades that had tires in the cargo hold that burned when a bundle of live oxygen generators that were supposed to be empty oxygen generators were activated? Lithium batteries have the same effect on burnable items if they have a thermal runaway. In the belly, you can’t do anything to stop it because the fire suppressant doesn’t cool and surround the batteries to keep them from burning everything in their proximity. Kind of like an EV catching fire and the fire department spraying water on it periodically while they let it burn for hours to let it burn itself out. Burning metal doesn’t go out with water sprayed on it very well unfortunately.

Put it back on the charger for a week. It may take a while to come back to good condition after fully running down and a couple days on the charger may not be enough time to build it back up. Might save you investing in a new battery.

Does the TBO even matter if the engine is still running well at 2000 or 2200 hours?

Not familiar with that issue. Can you explain what’s happening to the Cotter pins so I can watch for it? Thanks, Dan

Age of the unit only if it hadn’t been upgraded last O/H. I was told several things in the Slicks had been improved but you would not get those in an O/H, you had to get the new Slicks to get those benefits. I don’t have Slicks, so I didn’t pursue it further and don’t know what the changes include.

My Mag shop said O/H a Bendix because not much had changed, but replace and older Slick due to many upgrades over the years. O/H’d both Bendix and it wasn’t $400-500 each. It was about $1000 each in February for the O/H. Inflation I guess…? They sure run smoothly now though.

Looks nice! Should go quickly.

Mine has a similar SN but with a B on the end. I assume that is the SN suffix that negates the AD requirements?