Lord Engine Mounts

[gwav8or]

I'm having the Lord engine mount disks replaced at annual.  Looking at the two bottom ones, it seems it's way too tight to remove the bolts, not enough clearance. Is there an easy way to remove the bolts from the mounts without having to remove the whole engine mount from the firewall?

[danad]

I’ve got this in my future too. Interested to see the replies.

[MikeOH]

Me, three!

[Kelpro999]

I have a C that looks very doable, the F must have other obstacles I don’t 

[ArtVandelay]

Yes, they’re very tight. On the Mooney IIRC, you bolt on the engine mount and then install it to the firewall, and on removing it, unbolt the mount from firewall first.
You’ll see telltale damage to footwell extensions if you don’t do it properly.

[Igor_U]

^^^ This^^^

[gwav8or]

Yes, they’re very tight. On the Mooney IIRC, you bolt on the engine mount and then install it to the firewall, and on removing it, unbolt the mount from firewall first.
You’ll see telltale damage to footwell extensions if you don’t do it properly.

Do the maintenance manuals have information on how to do this correctly?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[47U]

5 hours ago, Kelpro999 said:

I have a C that looks very doable, the F must have other obstacles I don’t 

I replaced the engine shock mounts on my C without removing the engine mount from the firewall.  I disconnected the throttle/prop/mixture controls, wiring harnesses, etc., and hung the engine on a hoist.  Not a fun job, but doable.  Just make sure the alignment pins are in the correct orientation, or you might end up with this, which I discovered on a couple of the old shock mount washers.  I think the IO-360 engine mounts may not have alignment pins like the O-360 engine mounts… not for sure, though.

Previous owner (and me) flew for years and years with the hole in the engine mount not lined up correctly, deforming the washer.

 

[ArtVandelay]

Do the maintenance manuals have information on how to do this correctly?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The J manual doesn’t, but the C-F maintenance manual does.

[1980Mooney]

Here are some testimonials:

From a C owner

"First off - this job needs at least 2 people.  Moving the engine to line up parts, etc. can't be done alone.  Removing the old mounts and bolts is pretty easy after the engine is supported.  The bolts can be positioned to remove them when the engine is moved forward an inch or so.  For the new mounts, we started with the hardest to reach mount and left the mount with the best access for last.  Moving and lifting the engine both by hand and the engine hoist was required to get parts lined up.  A small brass hammer helped encourage the bolts into place.  It took about 2.5 hours. See the before and after images - it made a big difference on this air frame.  No additional shims were needed although I made a few in case they were. "

Other comments: From J owner

"I haven't hot the bill yet but I bet we had 5 hours to change them and that was with me running the cherry picker and pulling/pushing on the prop to help create enough room to remove and replace mounts ."

They sure got the oink out of the pig as far as not wasting any space when they designed the engine mount frame!

Response by C owner

"Same here. It probably took us 5 ~ 6 hours. Real PITA but it put everything back where it should be. "

Response by D/C owner regarding hours to replace

"Depends on a few things- how short your oil hoses, p-leads, CHT & EGT wiring, etc...is (will it have to be disconnected, or is there ample slack to move the engine out a few inches and tilt it down without risking breaking a wire?). Depends on whether or not the engine needs to be re-shimmed after the isolators are installed, whether or not you have an oil/air separator or other add-ones that typically get in the way and need to be unbolted. Typically, the lower cowl will come off (or at least moved forward) and if it’s fuel injected and the fuel lines have been run in front of the lower left isolator nut, then those will have to be R&R’d as well. Plan on 7-8 hrs labor. Perhaps a little more if the engine requires alignment after everything is torqued down. If there’s crappy stuff I there that’s been attached with zip-ties where it should be adel clamps, expect extra time to fix those when your mechanic discovers them..."

 

 

[Browncbr1]

You have to hoist the engine, remove the two top engine mount firewall bolts and tilt the engine/mount forward enough to get the two bottom vibration isolator disc bolts r&r.  You will need to remove the lower cowl also to do this.  When you finish replacing discs, file the old firewall bolts to a point and grind off the bolt head.  Then drive new bolts through from inside the cabin with a ball pin hammer. It is very tight under the panel, so you can also use a rivet gun to hit the new bolts in place.