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Posted (edited)

Kicking off another post on how to install baffle seals from Gee-Bee. This time on a 252 / TSIO-360MB engine:

  • Anyone have pictures of their original factory seals or a proper Gee-Bee install?
  • I hear part drawings from Mooney are non-existent, however I'll try inquire with the factory this week.
  • I'll also take good pictures of my install and post it here when I finish for future reference.

Here's the starting condition...which has been verified to leak badly at the top and left side (Seal folds back in flight even when properly positioned at cowling install).

IMG_0943.JPG

 

IMG_0945.JPG

AND here's the puzzle we need to solve :)

 

69077006734__D53744DD-EA50-486D-B777-8CBEFE54F0E1.JPG

Edited by Jay Aranha
Posted
22 minutes ago, Jay Aranha said:

Kicking off another post on how to install baffle seals from Gee-Bee. This time on a 252 / TSIO-360MB engine:

  • Anyone have pictures of their original factory seals or a proper Gee-Bee install?
  • I hear part drawings from Mooney are non-existent, however I'll try inquire with the factory this week.
  • I'll also take good pictures of my install and post it here when I finish for future reference.

Here's the starting condition...which has been verified to leak badly at the top and left side (Seal folds back in flight even when properly positioned at cowling install).

IMG_0943.JPG

 

IMG_0945.JPG

AND here's the puzzle we need to solve :)

 

69077006734__D53744DD-EA50-486D-B777-8CBEFE54F0E1.JPG

Here are some ideas: https://n252q.com/baffled-about-baffling/

Posted

One trick I learned is after drilling out the rivets of the old pieces of baffling. Lay the old baffling on top of the new one, and use it as a template to punch your rivet holes. 
I punched the first hole, then put a rivet in the two baffling pieces before punching the next hole. This keeps the two perfectly aligned all the way down the line.  My pieces fit perfectly. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

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