Interior refresh 66’E

[Nukemzzz]

I’ve made another mess. Looking for some advice...

1.  The side walls I can clean and repaint.  However there are significant cracks below the armrests that need to be repaired and reinforced.  Suggestions on the best way to do this?  On the window trim I used plastic epoxy and fiber tape on the inside. 
2.  If I get sidewalls from someplace like airtex does it include the parts in number 1 above?
3.  The foot well inserts and rear vent outlets at the flow level need to be replaced. Thinking maybe Alan has some good ones?  Or should I try and get new ones from somewhere like plane plastics?

4.  What’s the latest on the best door seal?  I need to remove and patch up the door panel and might as well put the right door seal in place while I’m at it  right now there is foam door seal tape from someplace like Lowe’s on the cabin side.  

The insulation in the plane appears to have already been improved. Likely during SB inspection for tube corrosion under the window at some point. I think I’ll leave it alone. I’m going to try and leave the ceiling alone. It looks ok for now. The wing root under the seat looks brand new so that’s good news. No signs of tube corrosion either. 

[Jakes Simmons]

Depending on your budget, I would include a call to Bruce Jaeger. He is currently transferring ownership of his interior business, I was one of his last aircraft. His side panels do give you extra shoulder width and are durable and owner installable. I thought I wanted new armrests but turns out I don’t miss them. My M20C also had newer insulation. Bruce liked the material but said it was installed wrong, it was compressed against the tubing with the possibility of holding moisture against the metal. He trimmed a bunch away. I am impressed by your work so far, wish I was closer to lend a hand.

[Nukemzzz]

31 minutes ago, Jakes Simmons said:

Depending on your budget, I would include a call to Bruce Jaeger. He is currently transferring ownership of his interior business, I was one of his last aircraft. His side panels do give you extra shoulder width and are durable and owner installable. I thought I wanted new armrests but turns out I don’t miss them. My M20C also had newer insulation. Bruce liked the material but said it was installed wrong, it was compressed against the tubing with the possibility of holding moisture against the metal. He trimmed a bunch away. I am impressed by your work so far, wish I was closer to lend a hand.

Thanks!  I noticed that some of the remodels I’ve seen are missing the armrests. I’m having a hard time with this notion because it’s useful for stabilizing the yoke when retracting the gear. 

[Tcraft938]

Huge job. No turning back now. Anyone know if the 63 year had arm rests?  

[carusoam]

Armrests and J-bars... seem to occupy the same space...

I have only had one or the other...

Plastics repair... lots of ABS paste techniques discussed using fiberglass to strengthen it... From behind...

My C got the Airtex treatment... everything lower then the plastic side walls...

 

Good  luck on this first step in renewal...

There are higher levels with nicer finish, at a much higher cost...

Best regards,

-a-

 

[Nukemzzz]

7 hours ago, carusoam said:

Armrests and J-bars... seem to occupy the same space...

 

 

I’m referring to the pilot’s left hand armrest. It’s a good elbow anchor when holding the yoke steady during j-bar operation. 

[M20F-1968]

13 hours ago, Jakes Simmons said:

Bruce liked the material but said it was installed wrong, it was compressed against the tubing with the possibility of holding moisture against the metal. He trimmed a bunch away. 

How much did he trim back?  Any pictures?  Did he use insulation that has an adhesive the sticks to the skin.  I used the Soundex stuff, which does not have any adhesive.  It is just put in place in between the tubes or other compartmented areas.  It has a aluminum foil-like layer that can help hold it in.  I used aluminum tapes as well.

John Breda

[Nukemzzz]

Using ABS cement which according to the label is ABS, MEK, and acetone.  Taped the cracks on the inside. Laying some fiberglass behind the crack and coating with the cement. Wiggling the crack some to let some of the cement into the crack itself. Hope it holds. 

In some spots I’m putting cement even though there isn’t yet a crack hoping to help prevent one. 

[Nukemzzz]

What should I put in place of the ashtray on the pilot side?  Seems silly to put it back in but don’t want to deal will trying to fill and finish the hole to match. 

How about a pencil sharpener with a crank on it?  Lol

 

[Nukemzzz]

I think the door panel is beyond repair. Someone already tried to fix the cracked armrest support. Cracks everywhere. 
 

[Yetti]

I remade my lower panels with aluminum covered in leather. 

[ArtVandelay]

I think the door panel is beyond repair. Someone already tried to fix the cracked armrest support. Cracks everywhere. 

I think a professional could fix it, some of the cracks would have to be reinforced because of the stresses they have to withstand. I had mine fixed and had the ashtrays removed.

[Schinderhannes]

A technique that worked for me is to apply fiberglass strips on the backside and rub in superglue in circular motion (Cyanoacrylate)

[JimB]

1 hour ago, Schinderhannes said:

A technique that worked for me is to apply fiberglass strips on the backside and rub in superglue in circular motion (Cyanoacrylate)

I have down similar but I use MEK. Lay the fiberglass on the back of the area that needs reinforcement, dip a rag in some MEK and drip a little into the fabric. The MEK will melt the plastic a bit and as it does take a gloved finger and work the fabric into the plastic. As the MEK evaporates, the plastic dries and the fabric is permanently embedded in the plastic. This works extraordinarily well. Any cracks on the front side can be filled with a 3M plastic filler, sanded smooth and the panel painted. 

Edited August 31, 2020 by JimB

[Nukemzzz]

3 minutes ago, JimB said:

I have down similar but I use MEK. Lay the fiberglass on the back of the area that needs reinforcement, dip a rag in some MEK and drip a little into the fabric. The MEK will melt the plastic a bit and as it does take a gloved finger and work the fabric into the plastic. As the MEK evaporates, the plastic dries and the fabric is permanently embedded in the plastic. This works extraordinarily well. Any cracks on the front side can be filled with a 3M plastic filler, sanded smooth and the panel painted. 

Thanks for the tips.  The biggest issue is I see his how distorted/warped the plastic is in this area below the armrest.  The region below the armrest has cracked and collapsed/warped under the weight of someone's heavy forearm.  lol

To fix it I'll need to first fix the warp with a heat gun somehow so it's the proper shape and then reinforce it and glue it back together.  To fix it with a heat gun I think i need to be able to clamp things into the right shape so it cools correctly but this is a complex shape and i don't have any special jigs for this.

Also, the top of the door panel has been covered with the same material used for the headliner with contact cement (falling off now).  That section of the plastic panel is breaking off and I can't fix the plastic without removing this material.  It will have to be recovered with something I think.

Basically its a hot mess... I have this feeling that if I spend 20hrs trying to save it, I'll have a crummy looking result that won't last very long before it cracks again.  But maybe this is the best path forward.  Just feels like my time is better spent starting off fresh. Not sure yet.

[Nukemzzz]

3 hours ago, ArtVandelay said:

I think a professional could fix it, some of the cracks would have to be reinforced because of the stresses they have to withstand. I had mine fixed and had the ashtrays removed.

I suspect you are right that a pro could fix it.  Trying to avoid a long delay here though since we will start putting the engine back in this week.  Just trying to make the interior less shameful really.  lmao

[Jakes Simmons]

On 8/30/2020 at 9:07 PM, M20F-1968 said:

How much did he trim back?  Any pictures?  Did he use insulation that has an adhesive the sticks to the skin.  I used the Soundex stuff, which does not have any adhesive.  It is just put in place in between the tubes or other compartmented areas.  It has a aluminum foil-like layer that can help hold it in.  I used aluminum tapes as well.

John Breda

I was out of town when he did it. I’ll look for pics. The insulation we found in there was good stuff, just thick, self supporting. Let me know how the Soundex works. I have heard good things. If the existing stuff in my ride wasn’t already good, I wanted to try Soundex. Couple more hours on my Ranger and I will write a PIREP on the interior and the new prop I installed.

[Keith20EH]

I just did this and posted about it from, January, 2020, you can search for the thread..

[Nukemzzz]

Today’s update...

Painted the side wall plastic. Using krylon fusion. Also called Bruce about Revitalize for the lower main cabin. Says he might also have door plastic for me that might work. I also called airtex.  Their sidewall kit with matching carpet is an option but then need to keep the lower foot well boxes.  Either of these folks would seem to be selling me the same thing but Bruce likes to attach without screws using basically super Velcro and the lower foot box is gone.  The lady at airtex didn’t think I could go to the floor with the lower wall. I could hear the uncertainty in her voice though. Not sure which way to go here.

i think I’m going to put a placard over the ashtray hole with stuff I might need to remember.  Or maybe it’s a better place to mount the iPhone.  not sure  

Funny side story...I pulled the curtains from the back windows a while back and went to hand wash them. My wife says she’ll do it and puts them in the washer on delicate. They came out looking like ancient torn up mummy wrapping. Lol. The good news is she felt bad and sewed up some new ones!
 

[Nukemzzz]

Those pictures are oriented correctly on my iPhone, iPad, and MacBook by the way. 

[carusoam]

Somebody around here flips pics often...

See if that helps...

-a-

 

[Nukemzzz]

Pro tip... don't spend a bunch of time fixing the door panel.  It's only $250 from plane plastics for my plane and comes in 3-4 days with free shipping.  

 

[rbridges]

On 8/31/2020 at 11:14 PM, Nukemzzz said:

Today’s update...

Painted the side wall plastic. Using krylon fusion. Also called Bruce about Revitalize for the lower main cabin. Says he might also have door plastic for me that might work. I also called airtex.  Their sidewall kit with matching carpet is an option but then need to keep the lower foot well boxes.  Either of these folks would seem to be selling me the same thing but Bruce likes to attach without screws using basically super Velcro and the lower foot box is gone.  The lady at airtex didn’t think I could go to the floor with the lower wall. I could hear the uncertainty in her voice though. Not sure which way to go here.

i think I’m going to put a placard over the ashtray hole with stuff I might need to remember.  Or maybe it’s a better place to mount the iPhone.  not sure  

Funny side story...I pulled the curtains from the back windows a while back and went to hand wash them. My wife says she’ll do it and puts them in the washer on delicate. They came out looking like ancient torn up mummy wrapping. Lol. The good news is she felt bad and sewed up some new ones!
 

Wow, that looks much better.

[Nukemzzz]

Update, it’s all going back in now. Installed shoulder belts as well. More to come. Working on windlace now. Should be starting this thing again tomorrow.  Been down since March. 

[Nukemzzz]

How about the rear heater port shrouds? The old ones were junk.  Thinking of just leaving the square holes in the carpet but might just heat up the back side of the walls. Any leads or ideas on what off the shelf part I can and should put there?