tomatl Posted July 27, 2020 Author Report Posted July 27, 2020 Here are some pictures of the alternator that is installed in the airplane. It is still not clear to me (or the mechanic) where the polymerized coupling is that may start to slip. Maybe I am slow, but could someone please explain. Thanks!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Geoff Posted July 27, 2020 Report Posted July 27, 2020 On 7/22/2020 at 8:51 AM, jlunseth said: carusoam is right, takeoff with the Master off is definitely not recommended, I should be more clear. In the 231, setting the power on takeoff and then for cruise is too tricky, with the possibility of overboosting or overheating the engine. If you are aloft and in stable, cruise flight, so the engine is set up safely, then switching the Master off to save power for landing operations is a good choice. Here is a coupler (no bushing). If the coupler has gotten damaged the replacement is more expensive, there is usually a credit for return of the old part if it can be refurbished: These are pictures of the polymerized clutch. It is the black rubber inside the metal housing. If memory serves, the clutch replacement does not include the gear. I don't see this part in the picture you posted. Focus on the small gear in your picture and anything attached that is/was attached to it. To my knowledge all TSIO 360 GB/LB engines use a gear driven alternator with this clutch arrangement. Has your engine been modified in any way? Check the logbooks? 1 Quote
tomatl Posted July 27, 2020 Author Report Posted July 27, 2020 These are pictures of the polymerized clutch. It is the black rubber inside the metal housing. If memory serves, the clutch replacement does not include the gear. I don't see this part in the picture you posted. Focus on the small gear in your picture and anything attached that is/was attached to it. To my knowledge all TSIO 360 GB/LB engines use a gear driven alternator with this clutch arrangement. Has your engine been modified in any way? Check the logbooks? These were all the parts that where on the drive. The small gear, as much as I (or the mechanic) could see, did not have a polymerized part or surface to it.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
carusoam Posted July 27, 2020 Report Posted July 27, 2020 Expect any direct drive alternator to have a rubber drive to separate it from the engine in the event of failure... The alternator shaft is pretty short... but that is the part that gets the clutch.... If it is not on the alternator’s shaft, check the engine where it is mounted... I think Clarence has posted pics of where the clutch gets mounted, and what to look for on Continental engines... Since you have everything apart... now would be the time to put a new on on there..? PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a- Quote
tomatl Posted July 27, 2020 Author Report Posted July 27, 2020 Seems to best option is to get all new/refurbished coupling and let the mechanic deal with it. When taking the alternator off, another problem emerged. Some of the safety wires inside the engine appear to be broken and need to be replaced. (The engine itself has no sign of problems.) Anyone an idea of what could have caused that?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
carusoam Posted July 27, 2020 Report Posted July 27, 2020 Time to ask an expert to see if he has seen safety wires broken related to the alternator on an M20K... @M20Doc Best regards, -a- Quote
Guest Posted July 28, 2020 Report Posted July 28, 2020 10 hours ago, tomatl said: Here are some pictures of the alternator that is installed in the airplane. It is still not clear to me (or the mechanic) where the polymerized coupling is that may start to slip. Maybe I am slow, but could someone please explain. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk This is the older style drive coupling with 2 rubber drive cushions retained in the metal cup which fits between the tabs on the drive member which is still on the alternator drive shaft. Clarence Quote
Guest Posted July 28, 2020 Report Posted July 28, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, tomatl said: Seems to best option is to get all new/refurbished coupling and let the mechanic deal with it. When taking the alternator off, another problem emerged. Some of the safety wires inside the engine appear to be broken and need to be replaced. (The engine itself has no sign of problems.) Anyone an idea of what could have caused that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk That gear is attached to the camshaft with four bolts per the IPC. I have to go the the engine maintenance manual for installation instructions. Clarence Edited July 28, 2020 by M20Doc Quote
carusoam Posted July 28, 2020 Report Posted July 28, 2020 I got it partially right, partially described the newer version that IO550s use... Try to visualize the bits and pieces... Essentially it is (sometimes) a break-away design. Used to keep expensive things from self destructing... When it is a breakaway design, it may be called a clutch... Rubber drive dogs are typical for this type of function... The rubber dogs get held, captured Between more durable parts... Using color codes, I pointed at things that may help with the visualization... Blue arrows... rubber drive dogs....vibration absorbers... Red arrows... the solid metal that does the driving.... Yellow arrows... the solid channel that the drive assembly fits in... Green arrow... the cover that houses the dogs and drive... All of this stuff goes on the shaft in order... it gets held in place by a nut on the end of the shaft... follow the procedures/drawings outlined by M20Doc... And... by the look of it... (of a casual observer)... I don’t see the break-away nature of this particular device... It may have been used for keeping vibrations from transferring from the engine to the alternator...(?) MS is a bunch of team work... Great pics... Great support documents... Great discussion... PP thoughts only, I am not a mechanic.... Best regards, -a- Quote
FloridaMan Posted July 29, 2020 Report Posted July 29, 2020 (edited) I'm not an A&P. Go to page 89 in this document. There is a test procedure. In my case, we did both the alternator and regulator, but your A&P should follow the diagnostic checklist before throwing parts at the problem. http://nctc.tk/mooney manual/M20/K/M20K__SMM.pdf Edited July 29, 2020 by FloridaMan Quote
Warren Posted July 30, 2020 Report Posted July 30, 2020 Helping a friend troubleshoot a similar issue in a 231. Recent engine rebuild and alternator rebuild. We found the cooling line was not reinstalled and are hoping the intermittent issues are heat related. Next step is to reinstall cooling line. Quote
tomatl Posted July 30, 2020 Author Report Posted July 30, 2020 Helping a friend troubleshoot a similar issue in a 231. Recent engine rebuild and alternator rebuild. We found the cooling line was not reinstalled and are hoping the intermittent issues are heat related. Next step is to reinstall cooling line. Can you elaborate which "cooling line" you are referring to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Warren Posted July 31, 2020 Report Posted July 31, 2020 12 hours ago, tomatl said: Can you elaborate which "cooling line" you are referring to. There should be a scat hose from the rear baffle to a plastic cover on the alternator that directs fresh air from the upper plenum to the alternator. My 1985 M20k has this line, his 1979 M20K has the fitting on the baffle and the plastic cover on the alternator but no line connected. Hope that helps. If you Still have questions, PM me and I will take a picture tomorrow. 1 Quote
tomatl Posted July 31, 2020 Author Report Posted July 31, 2020 There should be a scat hose from the rear baffle to a plastic cover on the alternator that directs fresh air from the upper plenum to the alternator. My 1985 M20k has this line, his 1979 M20K has the fitting on the baffle and the plastic cover on the alternator but no line connected. Hope that helps. If you Still have questions, PM me and I will take a picture tomorrow. Thanks, I‘ll check with the shop. A picture would be great.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
Warren Posted August 2, 2020 Report Posted August 2, 2020 Sorry. I took pictures and completely forgot to post them. First picture is the cooling line from the baffle to the alternator. Second picture is the inlet for the hose from the front side. Third picture is the hose connection to the cooling shroud on the air inlet for the alternator. 1 Quote
tomatl Posted August 2, 2020 Author Report Posted August 2, 2020 Sorry. I took pictures and completely forgot to post them. First picture is the cooling line from the baffle to the alternator. Second picture is the inlet for the hose from the front side. Third picture is the hose connection to the cooling shroud on the air inlet for the alternator. Thanks,I'll share it with the mechanics. Mine does currently not have any cooling line like this going to the alternator.Best,TomSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Warren Posted August 3, 2020 Report Posted August 3, 2020 6 hours ago, tomatl said: Thanks, I'll share it with the mechanics. Mine does currently not have any cooling line like this going to the alternator. Best, Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Good luck. Maybe you will be lucky enough to just need a piece of SCAT tubing. Quote
carusoam Posted August 3, 2020 Report Posted August 3, 2020 Great pics, Warren! Thanks for sharing them... Best regards, -a- Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.