Oil Filter on O-360 A1D

[carusoam]

Expect some sunshine around the corner...

China has been a rough place to operate from for the last year or two...

Best regards,

-a-

[Hank]

10 hours ago, Hector said:

Tight fit but after you do it a few times it’s easy and you don’t need to spill a drop of oil.

I slid my "drip catcher" under the filter, loosen it and let as much as.wants to run out and be funneled away. Then spin the filter off, drop it down so it's vertical like a half-full cup and lift it out the top. No muss, no fuss. It's tight but doable.

Putting the new filter on, there's almost an inch of free space lengthwise to line it up on the threaded post.  

[Buckeyechuck]

Anyone have experience with Superior Millennium cylinders?  They're pretty, but the SB list for Superior looks a bit lengthy. Trying to decide; Superior new steel, factory new steel or rebuilt nitride for this O/H. Don’t fly as much as some of you.  

[tigers2007]

My motor was field overhauled in ‘96 due to the oil pump AD and they used new Superior Millennium cylinders. I logged 5.3 flight hours today and my motor is at 2241 SMOH. Hard to compare my 24 year old cylinders to what Superior will sell you today but they sure have lasted. The previous owner group always changed the oil at 25 hour intervals. I hit 28.7 with today’s cross country bonanza and decided to use the quick drain. It’s due for its annual at the end of the month and I’m going to try to squeeze out 20 or so in the next two weeks.

[Guest]

On 2/13/2020 at 10:11 AM, Hank said:

I slid my "drip catcher" under the filter, loosen it and let as much as.wants to run out and be funneled away. Then spin the filter off, drop it down so it's vertical like a half-full cup and lift it out the top. No muss, no fuss. It's tight but doable.

Putting the new filter on, there's almost an inch of free space lengthwise to line it up on the threaded post.  

Sounds like the same process I use, other than I install the 48111 long oil filter which does fit.

Clarence

[Hank]

40 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

Sounds like the same process I use, other than I install the 48111 long oil filter which does fit.

Clarence

Didn't know I had a choice. There was a 48110 on when I bought the plane, and that's what the A&P who'd been taking care of it for several years told me to keep using. It fits, it works, there's just a fraction of if the space behind the engine on a Cherokee 180 to get it in and out, because the engine is closer to the firewall. 

[Guest]

12 hours ago, Hank said:

Didn't know I had a choice. There was a 48110 on when I bought the plane, and that's what the A&P who'd been taking care of it for several years told me to keep using. It fits, it works, there's just a fraction of if the space behind the engine on a Cherokee 180 to get it in and out, because the engine is closer to the firewall. 

For a few dollars more, you get almost 50% more filter area.

Clarence

[Buckeyechuck]

Thanks everyone, decided to send the engine to Penn Yan and go with new Lycoming nitride cylinders. Props going to tiffin aire. New hoses, tubes and throttle, prop, mix, carb heat and cowl flap control cables. After redoing the panel last summer; 2 G5's, GTN650, GTX345, and GMA345, all I need is Garmin to finish certification of the AP for the short bodies. I'm pre wired. Still need to get an engine analyzer for the new engine. I'm gonna have a sweet little Mooney. 

[cliffy]

2 hours ago, Buckeyechuck said:

Thanks everyone, decided to send the engine to Penn Yan and go with new Lycoming nitride cylinders. Props going to tiffin aire. New hoses, tubes and throttle, prop, mix, carb heat and cowl flap control cables. After redoing the panel last summer; 2 G5's, GTN650, GTX345, and GMA345, all I need is Garmin to finish certification of the AP for the short bodies. I'm pre wired. Still need to get an engine analyzer for the new engine. I'm gonna have a sweet little Mooney. 

Yes you are!  Perfect way to do things.

I went new Lyc cylinders many years ago and 1100 hrs ago and have not been disappointed at all. 

[Luxuryairtravel]

On 2/10/2020 at 8:36 PM, Buckeyechuck said:

The engine on my ‘62 M20C has told me she’s done. Time for an overhaul. She currently still has the original oil screen and one of the things I want to do is convert from a screen to an oil filter. There isn’t much room back there. Does anyone with an older C model have this conversion?  Did you use a direct mount or a remote mount?  Also, any recommendations on an engine shop near Ohio?  I’m thinking about Signature in Cincinnati.  Also doing prop, controls, hoses, mounts, etc.  Want this done right.  

I have had the Airwolf remote on other aircraft I have owned and swear by them. I believe the value to benefit is well worth it. I’m looking to install on my ‘65 M20E Super 21. I would highly recommend Signature Engine Shop out of KLUK.

[Buckeyechuck]

So is yours mounted above the exhaust pipe?  If so, has there ever been a concern for the heat in that area?

[59Moonster]

Do yourself a favor and just get the remote mount. I just did my first oil change since install and it was super easy. 
 

It’s  enough of a pain taking the cowling off. I couldn’t imagine trying to get to the screen or to the oil filter back there.  

’59 M20A

[tigers2007]

The screen probably should be checked at least once a year. I checked mine recently and its questionable if it was ever checked since the last overhaul. It had a lot of little shiny bits (all non-ferrous). Here is my thread regarding the debris I found.

[Buckeyechuck]

How did you manage to even get it out. 

[Fhagen]

On 2/10/2020 at 4:36 PM, Buckeyechuck said:

The engine on my ‘62 M20C has told me she’s done. Time for an overhaul. She currently still has the original oil screen and one of the things I want to do is convert from a screen to an oil filter. There isn’t much room back there. Does anyone with an older C model have this conversion?  Did you use a direct mount or a remote mount?  Also, any recommendations on an engine shop near Ohio?  I’m thinking about Signature in Cincinnati.  Also doing prop, controls, hoses, mounts, etc.  Want this done right.  

I've got a '62 also, N78987, based in Anchorage since '62.

I put on the Champion spin-on kit with the 48110 filter. 

I like that the vernatherm screws into the unit.

Have had zero problems with it in 15 years, but a bit messy when changing filters. 

I now change filter when eng is cold and set overnight so filter is not full. Seems to help the mess.

It's easiest to change when cowlings are off and top cowl is lifted at the back.

I've changed it through the cowling doors without uncowling but I usually skewer my finger with safety wire...and more messy.

Hope that helps...happy Mooneying.

Jim F.

 

 

[Brian Coate]

On 2/11/2020 at 6:05 AM, Hank said:

My C has the oil filter mounted behind the engine. Yes, it's tight. In the Downloads section, I have posted an oil change process. It's not really hard, but you will need a 1" wrench and a scrap of sheet metal 3-4" wide and 2-3 feet long.

I am trying to restore an M20C, and I have an O-360-A1D with no oil filter.   I have been told a screw on adapter wont fit a mooney, and others have said to go with the remote mount.   I am just looking for the best option to add a filter.  It looks really tight back there.

 

Brian

 

[Tcraft938]

I have a 1963 C.  The direct mount is a bit of a pain taking off both sides of the cowl.  You can do it with out taking the top cowl off, just remove the aft screws and prop it open a bit, but I don't like bending the metal, even slightly.  Here's a pic of what you have to work with.  As far as overhaul shops, I highly recommend Penn Yan.  Did mine last September, done on time, under price quote and they keep good track of how things have been since.

[Tcraft938]

Here's a better shot of the filter.  Bet a 2" or 1 1/2" by 3' section of PVC pipe, cut it in half and bevel one end about 30 degrees.  Carefully slide between wires and hoses so it's directly under the filter and you won't get a drop inside the engine compartment.  If the batter box was not on the pilot side, then you could get away just taking one cheek cowl off and do everything from there.  My A&P has a flexible tube device that he uses from just the pilot side and he does the process that way.  He amazes me what he can not see, but feel and get it done, or uses a combination of mirrors and scopes to see what he wants to see.  

[Tcraft938]

Here's a better pic of filter.  about 3" of room to the firewall.  Get a 2" by 3' section of PVC pipe, cut in half and bevel one end about 30 degrees, carefully slice through the hoses and wires so it's wedged under the filter and you won't spill a drop in the engine compartment.  My A&P has a flexible setup that he can get under the battery box and he just opens the pilot side cowl.  He amazes me what he can work on without seeing it.  Yes he uses mirrors and scopes to visually look at things and inspect his work.  Fortunately, he enjoys the challenge and design of the Mooney so doesn't get frustrated easily or take the frustration out on my wallet.  

[Guest]

4 hours ago, Brian Coate said:

I am trying to restore an M20C, and I have an O-360-A1D with no oil filter.   I have been told a screw on adapter wont fit a mooney, and others have said to go with the remote mount.   I am just looking for the best option to add a filter.  It looks really tight back there.

 

Brian

 

You can install a standard Lycoming oil filter adapter and even a CH48111 long oil filter.  With practice you can change the oil without spilling.  Personally I wouldn’t waste my time or money on a remote filter.

Clarence

[carusoam]

great input, including pics!

Go MS!

Best regards,

-a-

[cctsurf]

16 hours ago, M20Doc said:

and even a CH48111 long oil filter

I'm going to have to try one of those on my install...  Wouldn't have thought it possible.

Thanks!

[Hank]

18 hours ago, M20Doc said:

You can install a standard Lycoming oil filter adapter and even a CH48111 long oil filter.  With practice you can change the oil without spilling.  Personally I wouldn’t waste my time or money on a remote filter.

Clarence

I use the CH48-110 filter on my C, and the only "spillage" that I typically have is the occasional droplet that shoots down the metal tray and misses my catch bucket.

Look in the Download section for a pdf with pictures. 

[Tcraft938]

Here's a better pic of filter.  about 3" of room to the firewall.  Get a 2" by 3' section of PVC pipe, cut in half and bevel one end about 30 degrees, carefully slice through the hoses and wires so it's wedged under the filter and you won't spill a drop in the engine compartment.  My A&P has a flexible setup that he can get under the battery box and he just opens the pilot side cowl.  He amazes me what he can work on without seeing it.  Yes he uses mirrors and scopes to visually look at things and inspect his work.  Fortunately, he enjoys the challenge and design of the Mooney so doesn't get frustrated easily or take the frustration out on my wallet.  

[Tcraft938]

Carusoam, I'm honored.  A little over a year ago I did not know much more about Mooney's other than I wanted one that would fit my budget.  In a year of Annual, Maintenance and Engine overhaul I have learned a lot thanks to MS, Don Maxwell and my A&P teaching me along the way.  The greatest thing I've learned, is there is MUCH more to learn and I don't know what I don't know and that will likely be what bites me.  I'm glad I could finally contribute back to the MS community.  Trust me, if I can change the oil and filter carefully and methodically in a about an 90 minutes someone with skills could likely train their dog to do it in 20 minutes.  :- )  To make sure I don't flub something up, I take pictures on my phone of several angles, then when done, I compare what I see to the pics.  That usually means I end up doing the safety wire a 4th or more time.  I know my AP will ras me about a sloppy looking wire job.