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Posted

I have just under 100 SMOH on a Lycoming IO-360 installed in my J. The other day I went out and found a puddle of oil that had dripped down on the nose tire.  After cleaning the engine and flying, I looked it over.  What I discovered is a small oil puddle on the oil pan, directly above the intake tube.  I would wipe it off, then watch it reform.  Apparently there is a pin hole or very small crack at that location.  Has any had this issue before and how was it corrected?  

IMG_20200124_143837.jpg

Posted

It almost looks like a crack or manufacturing flaw in that flange area.  Wonder if they bead blasted and thinned it just enough to start leaking.  Kind of strange, but the castings are rather crude to begin with.

Posted (edited)

is it painted?   It looks like it has been JB welded (poorly)  or some other sealant.   What shop did your OH?

Edited by Yetti
Posted (edited)

It is painted, overhaul was done by Jewell last April.  I don't think it is patched, but maybe got thinned during inspection, bead blasting?  I am thinking about draining the oil and cleaning it real good and trying a little JB Weld hi heat. If that did not work, then remove the pan and send it to someone like divco.

Edited by ltdoyle
Spelling
Posted
13 minutes ago, ltdoyle said:

I was really happy with the oh done by Jewel, I think this is just one f those things that happens.

Great to hear.  I only have around 1400 hours on my engine but when the time comes Jewell will probably be my choice.

Posted
What’s up with that hose glued to the intake tube? My J didn’t have anything like that.

I can’t believe that’s certified technique, especially adding in hose clamps because they know the glue eventually will fail.


Tom
Posted

Just for what it’s worth...when I ordered a factory rebuilt engine from Lycomming, they delayed shipment to me because the needed a shipment of oil pans/ intake to arrive.  That shocked me, as I would have thought they were near bulletproof and would never fail...

Posted
1 hour ago, ArtVandelay said:


I can’t believe that’s certified technique, especially adding in hose clamps because they know the glue eventually will fail.


Tom

That’s the way every standby vacuum fitting is done in my experience, other than engines with an intake coupling hose.  On those, a clean hole is cut through the rubber and is aligned with the gap between the intake tube and the stub in the oil sump.  The nipple on the saddle fitting enters the hole and is held on with hose clamps.

Clarence

Posted
That’s the way every standby vacuum fitting is done in my experience, other than engines with an intake coupling hose.  On those, a clean hole is cut through the rubber and is aligned with the gap between the intake tube and the stub in the oil sump.  The nipple on the saddle fitting enters the hole and is held on with hose clamps.
Clarence

Why not have a tee fitting?


Tom
Posted

I had a similar problem and found two pin holes at the oil sump causing the leak. Sealed the holes with Marine Tek and problem solved. It is not unusual  for a casting to loose some of the grain over time

  • Like 1
Posted
19 hours ago, ltdoyle said:

It is painted, overhaul was done by Jewell last April.  I don't think it is patched, but maybe got thinned during inspection, bead blasting?  I am thinking about draining the oil and cleaning it real good and trying a little JB Weld hi heat. If that did not work, then remove the pan and send it to someone like divco.

Looks like it is in the area of a weld or mold mark...

Good that you have clear pics...

Send the pic to Jewell and see what they say...

Divco is probably a great resource as well... especially on how to fix it properly...

The problem with a leak at the bottom of the oil pan... how far down is it?

If the method of fixing it doesn’t hold... will you run out of oil?

How easy is an oil pan replacement? A few AMUs?

Best regards,

-a-

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