MisfitSELF Posted December 16, 2019 Report Posted December 16, 2019 Looking for recommendations for a place to get an oil change for my M20J in central Florida (east coast). Thanks, Bruce Quote
ArtVandelay Posted December 16, 2019 Report Posted December 16, 2019 Looking for recommendations for a place to get an oil change for my M20J in central Florida (east coast). Like Daytona Beach? Ft Pierce? Do you not have an AP at your home airport? No special Mooney skills required for an oil change.I would learn to do it yourself, save the time and hassle for just an oil change.Tom Quote
FLYFST Posted December 16, 2019 Report Posted December 16, 2019 +1 on doing oil change yourself. Don’t forget to cut and inspect oil filter for metal and unexpected items. Also consider taking oil sample and sending out for analysis, Blackstone Labs is quick and good value. Use MooneySpace for how-to-advice. PM me if you want to discuss further. Hank Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
MisfitSELF Posted December 16, 2019 Author Report Posted December 16, 2019 (edited) I wasn’t asking for “how to”. I change my oil myself but I’ll be traveling extensively in that area and was wanting to know “where to”. The Datona Beach area would work. I’ll be tied down for a few days at KTIX. If someone has pointers about getting oil changes “while on the road”, I’ll take that too. Edited December 16, 2019 by MisfitSELF Quote
ArtVandelay Posted December 16, 2019 Report Posted December 16, 2019 I wasn’t asking for “how to”. I change my oil myself but I’ll be traveling extensively in that area and was wanting to know “where to”. The Datona Beach area would work. I’ll be tied down for a few days at KTIX. If someone has pointers about getting oil changes “while on the road”, I’ll take that too. Airmav shows KTIX has service on the field, if you want a Mooney service center, KDAB has one. X26 (Sabastian) has a shop who’s name I can’t remember. Least hassle is probably the local mechanic unless you have a reason not to use it. Tom 1 Quote
MisfitSELF Posted December 16, 2019 Author Report Posted December 16, 2019 Thanks Tom. Those sound like good options. Quote
ArtVandelay Posted December 16, 2019 Report Posted December 16, 2019 Thanks Tom. Those sound like good options. BTW, if you have the mechanic install a quick drain, you can literally change the oil (not the filter) without removing the cowling. So if traveling, all you have to do is: Connect a hose to the quick drain, open it to drain the oil, only requires to disconnect the left cowl flap. Close drain, and fill with fresh oil. No tools required, takes 30 minutes. Obviously not ideal since old filter isn’t changed, but good enough until you return back home. Tom Quote
Austintatious Posted December 16, 2019 Report Posted December 16, 2019 29 minutes ago, ArtVandelay said: BTW, if you have the mechanic install a quick drain, you can literally change the oil (not the filter) without removing the cowling. So if traveling, all you have to do is: Connect a hose to the quick drain, open it to drain the oil, only requires to disconnect the left cowl flap. Close drain, and fill with fresh oil. No tools required, takes 30 minutes. Obviously not ideal since old filter isn’t changed, but good enough until you return back home. Tom man, I wish this was possible with my rocket! Quote
Jim Peace Posted December 16, 2019 Report Posted December 16, 2019 2 hours ago, MisfitSELF said: Thanks Tom. Those sound like good options. Daytona Beach aircraft service is where I go,,,they have two locations,,,one at DAB and one at Spruce creek airport...you can drop into the creek and have lunch at the downwind while they do it if scheduling works out.....its better than the breakfast buffet at rosamond....I have done that a bunch Try it out.... if you get to the creek email me.... 1 Quote
eman1200 Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 I wasn’t asking for “how to”. I change my oil myself but I’ll be traveling extensively in that area and was wanting to know “where to”.... The internet/mooneyspace has a way of NOT answering your question in a dozen different ways. Quote
larrynimmo Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 as others have said...if you have a "quick drain"....you simply hook up a plastic hose leading down into a bucket capable of holding 6, 7 or 8 quarts of oil. While the hose is attached, push in and twist the quick drain one quarter turn clockwise and the old oil will flow out. once the oil has drained out about 95%, push back in the quick drain and turn 1/4 turn counter clockwise. disconnect the hose and let it drain back into the bucket. Most shops will handle disposal of you oil without charge as a simple curtesy. Make sure you have a roll of paper towels to clean up residual oil. There is no rule that says you need to change your filter at the same time. Changing the filter will make some mess even if you are very good at this task. If you are compelled to change your oil while away from base, I strongly recommend you wait to change the filter until you are back at your home base. Quote
ArtVandelay Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 as others have said...if you have a "quick drain"....you simply hook up a plastic hose leading down into a bucket capable of holding 6, 7 or 8 quarts of oil. I would not use a plastic or cheap hose, the heat will make the hose very pliable and it’s likely to fall off making a mess, use a good rubber hose (fuel hose). You only need about 18”.Tom Quote
larrynimmo Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 I would allow 24", and cheap clear plastic will hold on to the ridge of the nipple of the quick drain. a running engine oil temperature is typically only 180 degrees F, that's not hot enough to need a rubber hose. you can buy the clear hose at a hardware or automotive store...throw it away when your done to reduce mess. Quote
KB4 Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 18 minutes ago, larrynimmo said: I would allow 24", and cheap clear plastic will hold on to the ridge of the nipple of the quick drain. a running engine oil temperature is typically only 180 degrees F, that's not hot enough to need a rubber hose. you can buy the clear hose at a hardware or automotive store...throw it away when your done to reduce mess. Works great on my J. I use a Welding glove from Harbor Freight to keep my arm away from hot exhaust when connecting the hose then slip hand out and leave glove between hose and exhaust until exhaust cools. IMG_4515.MOV-1.mp4 1 Quote
Marauder Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 Works great on my J. I use a Welding glove from Harbor Freight to keep my arm away from hot exhaust when connecting the hose then slip hand out and leave glove between hose and exhaust until exhaust cools. IMG_4515.MOV-1.mp4 Where’s Clarence (M20Doc) when you need him? I’m sure if he was here, he would point out one or two things wrong with your plane. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro 1 2 Quote
Guest Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 1 hour ago, Marauder said: Where’s Clarence (M20Doc) when you need him? I’m sure if he was here, he would point out one or two things wrong with your plane. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro Well, I did notice that the cowl flap quick disconnect is broken and there is some safety wire holding either the mixture or ram air cable in place. Clarence Quote
RobertGary1 Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 16 hours ago, KB4 said: Works great on my J. I use a Welding glove from Harbor Freight to keep my arm away from hot exhaust when connecting the hose then slip hand out and leave glove between hose and exhaust until exhaust cools. That's a lot to carry around with you on long trips. Probably easier to have it done at a shop when on a trip like the OP is. -Robert Quote
ArtVandelay Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 Well, I did notice that the cowl flap quick disconnect is broken and there is some safety wire holding either the mixture or ram air cable in place. Clarence Probably falls off when not connected , I have 1 like that, I think it needs to be squeezed or it’s missing a stop. I’m afraid to ask what it would cost to replace it.Tom Quote
ArtVandelay Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 That's a lot to carry around with you on long trips. Probably easier to have it done at a shop when on a trip like the OP is. -Robert You don’t need the 5 gallon bucket...a couple of throwaway 1 gallon containers and a hose is all you need. I usually use a course screen and funnel to catch any debris as I leave the pickup screen for the AP at annual, but would skip that if away from home. My quick drain is horizontal and if you wait 5 minutes or so the exhaust is cool enough. Tom Quote
Davidv Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 Is anyone with a Bravo able to change their oil without removing bottom cowl? I've come close to getting the hose onto the quick drain through the cowl flap but haven't been successful yet. Quote
ArtVandelay Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 Is anyone with a Bravo able to change their oil without removing bottom cowl? I've come close to getting the hose onto the quick drain through the cowl flap but haven't been successful yet. I’m not familiar with Bravos but....How about connecting the hose (a real hose, not a cheap plastic hose), and bundle it the other drain hoses. I have three cable tied together coming out the left cowl flap, it would be easy to just add another. Then all you have to do is cut the cable tie, open/close the quick drain, then re-cable tie it?Tom Quote
Davidv Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 2 minutes ago, ArtVandelay said: I’m not familiar with Bravos but.... How about connecting the hose (a real hose, not a cheap plastic hose), and bundle it the other drain hoses. I have three cable tied together coming out the left cowl flap, it would be easy to just add another. Then all you have to do is cut the cable tie, open/close the quick drain, then re-cable tie it? Tom I use a heavy duty rubber hose that fits snugly around the quick drain "root". The issue is that it fits so snugly that it's difficult to get it on without hot oil spilling since you don't have the leverage of using your second hand to hold quick drain closed. Maybe someone has cracked the code... Quote
ArtVandelay Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 I use a heavy duty rubber hose that fits snugly around the quick drain "root". The issue is that it fits so snugly that it's difficult to get it on without hot oil spilling since you don't have the leverage of using your second hand to hold quick drain closed. Maybe someone has cracked the code... So connect it when it’s cold, leave it and you only need to open/close the quick drain, no chance of oil spillage?Tom Quote
Davidv Posted December 18, 2019 Report Posted December 18, 2019 4 hours ago, ArtVandelay said: So connect it when it’s cold, leave it and you only need to open/close the quick drain, no chance of oil spillage? Tom Thanks Tom, definitely a possibility. I prefer to do it when hot but it's also tough to access... Maybe a different setup in the J? Btw, where in FL are you based? David Quote
Guest Posted December 18, 2019 Report Posted December 18, 2019 8 hours ago, ArtVandelay said: Probably falls off when not connected , I have 1 like that, I think it needs to be squeezed or it’s missing a stop. I’m afraid to ask what it would cost to replace it. Tom Not as much as you’d think. Quote
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