J0nathan225 Posted July 6, 2018 Report Posted July 6, 2018 It comes in 3's I've always been told. The spark plug issue has been resolved and I have spares now too, but when I went to fly today I got no power after flipping the master switch to on for start. On preflight the switch worked as I checked the stall horn and lights, but on subsequent flips I could hear the solenoid drop/engage, but the connection wasn't being made (I confirmed with a voltmeter). I cleaned the area and then tried rapid fire with 3-4 up down toggles and got a good connection after that. I switched it on 3-4 more times before heading home and it worked each time there after. I seem to have the original Cutler-Hammer 6041H34B, though it looks pretty "gunked" up. Quote
MB65E Posted July 8, 2018 Report Posted July 8, 2018 Eaton is the current MFG. They make good stuff. You can upgrade to the higher current relay. tail of caution, the battery relay failures can look exactly like partial battery failures. If the relay is working it could be the battery itself. I would spend money on load testing the battery If questionable. If the battery test is good then it’s the relay. -Matt Quote
J0nathan225 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Posted July 9, 2018 Battery load tested ok and was replaced in February. Relay is original it seems, I think I'm heading to ACspruce's GA location tomorrow to grab a new skytec relay. Quote
Yetti Posted July 9, 2018 Report Posted July 9, 2018 (edited) I have replaced lots of metal can solenoids after they failed on high load situations. I think there has already been one of the Skytec that has gone south. Might be a good temp solution till you can get a good replacement. Would guess with the silicone that one has been apart once or twice. They look like they made it easy to take apart and clean. Edited July 9, 2018 by Yetti 1 Quote
Ross Taylor Posted June 2, 2020 Report Posted June 2, 2020 Hi fellow MSers. I'm reviving this thread, instead of starting anew, because it seems the most relevant. The master solenoid (power relay) on our '66 E is a bit flaky...sometimes it takes a bit to actuate, even though the master switch wiring is good and the battery is recent (and always maintained on a charger). In the applicable parts manual, it shows a 800128 part number for that power relay. I'm not finding that, but I did see a cross-reference chart indicating that either an Eaton 6041H105 or a 6041H231 were the current replacements. But that wasn't on any official Mooney document and seemed pretty generic. Neither of those numbers match the OPs part number, above. So, what's the right one for me? Thanks in advance! Ross Quote
J0nathan225 Posted June 2, 2020 Author Report Posted June 2, 2020 16 minutes ago, Ross Taylor said: Hi fellow MSers. I'm reviving this thread, instead of starting anew, because it seems the most relevant. The master solenoid (power relay) on our '66 E is a bit flaky...sometimes it takes a bit to actuate, even though the master switch wiring is good and the battery is recent (and always maintained on a charger). In the applicable parts manual, it shows a 800128 part number for that power relay. I'm not finding that, but I did see a cross-reference chart indicating that either an Eaton 6041H105 or a 6041H231 were the current replacements. But that wasn't on any official Mooney document and seemed pretty generic. Neither of those numbers match the OPs part number, above. So, what's the right one for me? Thanks in advance! Ross IDK the answer, but I didn't end up replacing it and still have the part. I'll get the P/N when I go to the hanger tomorrow. 1 Quote
MB65E Posted June 2, 2020 Report Posted June 2, 2020 The original one is no longer available. I upgraded to a new Eaton one with increased amperage. $$$! It later failed miserably, so installed the original one. You can take it apart and clean contacts. I would not buy a new one. -Matt 2 Quote
Ross Taylor Posted June 2, 2020 Report Posted June 2, 2020 Just now, MB65E said: The original one is no longer available. I upgraded to a new Eaton one with increased amperage. $$$! It later failed miserably, so installed the original one. You can take it apart and clean contacts. I would not buy a new one. -Matt Good call on the disassembly...I just noticed that it's not riveted together. Quote
Andy95W Posted June 2, 2020 Report Posted June 2, 2020 This one is FAA-PMA for every Mooney model except the M20A or B. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/sts-12a24a.php http://www.lamartech.com/files/128975167.pdf 1 2 Quote
Ross Taylor Posted June 2, 2020 Report Posted June 2, 2020 Thanks @Andy95W - if I need a replacement that certainly looks like a much more affordable option. Great info...thank you. EDIT to update the item number: Again, thanks for the links. MS is the most helpful place! In reading the Lamar docs, it looks like the one I need for the master solenoid is this one - the STS-M12 (there are different versions, but this part number is the one listed as the replacement in the PMA doc Andy linked to): https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/skytec07-03565.php Quote
carusoam Posted June 2, 2020 Report Posted June 2, 2020 They must get pretty dirty in the inside... Each time the switch is thrown, a tiny, powerful spark leaps across the gap, and knocks off a dust particle sized piece on the other side... Open the old one up, just to get a look inside... PP thoughts only... Best regards, -a- Quote
jetdriven Posted June 4, 2020 Report Posted June 4, 2020 On 6/1/2020 at 9:20 PM, Ross Taylor said: Thanks @Andy95W - if I need a replacement that certainly looks like a much more affordable option. Great info...thank you. EDIT to update the item number: Again, thanks for the links. MS is the most helpful place! In reading the Lamar docs, it looks like the one I need for the master solenoid is this one - the STS-M12 (there are different versions, but this part number is the one listed as the replacement in the PMA doc Andy linked to): https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/skytec07-03565.php The Iink is the STS-A12 But I bought the M12 last year at annual Works good Last long time. Add the diode too Quote
MB65E Posted June 6, 2020 Report Posted June 6, 2020 I took my expensive Eaton relay apart today. In the metal tin can there is a steel sleeve where the barrel retracts into the magnet portion itself. My guess is that the housing was miss-aligned and wearing between the housing and the barrel. The contacts were clean and I don’t think that was the issue. I lubed the barrel and sleeve and put it all back together. Who Knows, -Matt 3 Quote
carusoam Posted June 6, 2020 Report Posted June 6, 2020 There must be a select Saint in charge of weary mechanical devices that we can pray to... for support... Best regards, -a- 2 Quote
0TreeLemur Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 (edited) On 6/5/2020 at 9:38 PM, MB65E said: I took my expensive Eaton relay apart today. In the metal tin can there is a steel sleeve where the barrel retracts into the magnet portion itself. My guess is that the housing was miss-aligned and wearing between the housing and the barrel. The contacts were clean and I don’t think that was the issue. I lubed the barrel and sleeve and put it all back together. Who Knows, -Matt Hi Matt, I'm having the same problem. Master relay solenoid is sticky. If I tap on it with a rubber mallet it activates. How did your lube & clean work out? Still working? If so, what did you use to lubricate it? Thanks, Fred Edited February 20, 2021 by 0TreeLemur asked question about lubricant. Quote
carusoam Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 Chances are... The solenoid isn’t serviceable... Which is odd... Because it creates its own dirt with every internal spark it generates during normal operations... To clean it probably requires taking it apart and proper reassembly... Its a magnetic switch with a coil... the coil probably didn’t wear out... PP thoughts only... not a mechanic... Best regards, -a- Quote
Jim Peace Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 I carry a brand new spare with me....1964c. I had my friend redo the jumper cable for my application so I dont have to think about it if I need to replace..should be a 10 minute job to swap out and an hour to remove and replace the cowling..... Quote
MB65E Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 I still have the original back in the airplane. It’s been working great. A few years ago The reason installed the new one is that I thought it was loosing current. Turned out to just be a bad battery, and a diode that blew in the Alternator. New Alt, Battery and relay were installed. Turned out the relay was probably fine. I never did re-install the one I took apart. Getting out of the left seat with a PAx already strapped in just to run out and tap the relay was getting old. -Matt Quote
carusoam Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 Jim, What’s the big empty space...? Looks like you filled the map in... There should be an MS award to go with that! The been there award! Best regards, -a- Quote
Jim Peace Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 12 hours ago, carusoam said: Jim, What’s the big empty space...? Looks like you filled the map in... There should be an MS award to go with that! The been there award! Best regards, -a- I dont see that on my end....is that on all my posts? Quote
carusoam Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 3 hours ago, Jim Peace said: I dont see that on my end....is that on all my posts? It’s cleared up today... -a- Quote
0TreeLemur Posted February 21, 2021 Report Posted February 21, 2021 Ordered Sky-Tec master solenoid. A certified airplane part for less than 0.1 AMU is a treasure, especially one as essential as this one. Quote
carusoam Posted February 21, 2021 Report Posted February 21, 2021 11 hours ago, Jim Peace said: I dont see that on my end....is that on all my posts? magically it returned... Might be iPad viewer related... -a- Quote
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