Still running hot

[Jeev]

On September 4, 2016 at 9:57 AM, mooneyflyfast said:

Remove the baffle in front of the no. 1 cyl. (two machine screws).. Cut 3/4 inch off if it and reinstall.. Your problem is solved.. Had the same problem with my 81 J and after doing this my no. 1 went from hottest cyl. to second coolest.. Actually my  mechananic made me a shorter one in literally 10 minutes at no charge.. This baffle is to keep no. 1 from running too cold-- makes no sense it it is too hot.. I don't know who originated this fix (not me) but it has been covered a lot on various threads and it seems to work.

This worked on my J as well

[flyboy0681]

On 9/4/2016 at 0:57 PM, mooneyflyfast said:

Remove the baffle in front of the no. 1 cyl. (two machine screws).. Cut 3/4 inch off if it and reinstall.. Your problem is solved.. Had the same problem with my 81 J and after doing this my no. 1 went from hottest cyl. to second coolest.. Actually my  mechananic made me a shorter one in literally 10 minutes at no charge.. This baffle is to keep no. 1 from running too cold-- makes no sense it it is too hot.. I don't know who originated this fix (not me) but it has been covered a lot on various threads and it seems to work.

Here's an update on this...

We had our A&P do exactly as you suggested, by cutting 3/4 inch off,  and it worked. However, #1 is now running 35 degrees cooler than all the rest. I guess that's better than 35 hotter.

[N400YS]

I love this mooniac community that finds solutions when mechanics don't.......

Edited September 23, 2016 by N400YS

[carusoam]

The amazing power of MS!

Group sourcing may not be perfect, but it does supply some good ideas/experience along the way.

Best regards,

-a-

[Emmet]

Can you post a picture?
Is there a similar trick for a 231 ?

[bradp]

For the TCM engines look up "pixie hole".  They are placed by hangar elves. 

[StevenL757]

All,

Second Guy's remarks above.  I ordered my new seals from him about 3+ years ago now, and couldn't be happier.  I strongly urge anyone considering new baffles (if yours are aging, this is money well-spent) to go with his solution.  They are pre-cut to your particular model, and are easily-installed.

Guy - are you able to share a website or any model-specific information regarding your baffles for this user base, if not already done?

Regards, Steve

[bradp]

Don't forget the forward baffles down low (for J owners the ones that surround the airbox, ram air and alternator cutout.  Guy - does your kit include this material as well?

In addition, for those of us who live in very cold climates, some members have reported the opposite issue - too cold CHTs in the winter.  Before any major modifications are made by hangar faries- don't forget to consider the extremes of the climate in which you fly warm and cold.

[carusoam]

It is nice to have the supplier's expertise and support.

Thanks GB,

-a-

[Guest]

4 hours ago, GEE-BEE said:

I have 465 different oem design aircraft patterns

 

n77gb@msn.com

Five Colors stock

MED BLUE

CHAMPION RED

BLACK

SCAT ORANGE

NAVY BLUE MIGHT COME BACK

YELLOW

RIVET COLORS

WHITE

BLACK

SILVER

And all of the ones I've installed worked very well!

Clarence

[cnoe]

Its a complete set, I now include fiberglass reinforced valve cover gaskets with the shipment
We use the same spec on the valve cover gaskets as baffle seal
 
I also do black two ply ducts with finished ends ( sceet ) type but black
made to order
N77gb@msn.com
 

At the risk of sounding like an idiot let me say that... "I just LOVE shiny things!" What a beautiful engine; dude needs a CLEAR cowling.

P.S. Three years later and my (your) new baffle seals (in blue) are working very well.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Ron McBride]

GB  Did you ever design a new cowl to fuel injection boot for the E's and F's?

Ron