M20F-1968

I never quantified the svings, but I would not doubt the 40% quoted. The O2D2 is a must have system. John Breda

I think it is a Craftsman

I use a Snap-On 3/8" drive torque wrench that has a hinged head with a 1" standard socket. Fits on the oil filter without a problem. John Breda

Skybolt has fasteners with larger flanges which have greater overlap and can fix some of the problem. Jetdriven's description is accurate. The real fix is to grind out the fiberglass until you his the 1 1/2" or so wide metal strip embedded in the fiberglass. This metal strip needs to be replaced, re-fiberglassed and new holes drilled. Using the Skybolt fasteners would be a plus. The 4000 series are adjustable and the size is appropriate fir the cowling/firewall interface. They have larger flanges. The 2000 series are smaller, can be used between the top and lower cowling, and can also be ordered with a larger flange. This will delay wear of the new holes as well. If you hollow out the inside of the cowling, you will save repainting, but you will need to re-fiberglass and sand to fit the old dimensions. John Breda

The past few months have been devoted to some finishing of projects and routine maintenance. I am thinking more and more about retirement so my flight time should increase.

I have been there, done that in my 68 F. With the turbo normalizer everything is shoehorned into the cowling. The 231 is likely similar. Yes, the baffling can be made, and likely can be made better than the factory version, however the tolerance are tight, which means work goes slowly taking and fitting constantly. Some parts can not be fit tested without the cowling on, so expect to spend a great deal of time on this project. It is not a simple as it looks. John Breda

Any of the seats will fit. I have all 4 seats from a 1998 Ovation. At least in mine, the holes in the rails were 0.050" less deep than in the newer Ovation rails. Nothing a well controlled drill and a 0.250" drill bit couldn't remedy. John Breda

I have a highly modified 1968 F model. Turbo normalized, modern airplane, 90 gallons of fuel, all applicable speed mods, 201 windshield, J model cowling, full flap, aileron, hinge and dorsal gap seals. At 10,000 feet in summer, with everything forward = 168 kts, 10,000 feet at 75% power = 160 kts, 17,000 - 18,000 feet, 75% power 175-178 kts and LOP 170 - 174 kts. John Breda

It would be great if you could post the electronic files of these ads in the download section of Mooneyspace or share a Google drive posting if the files are large. John Breda

If someone has electronic copies of Parts and Service Manuals for the F (mine is a 68) and the J (my plane is now similar to a J and I am told the J manuals are more complete) I would like a copy. My e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com Thanks, John Breda

The reference line is needed. These fuel pumps are difficult to find as cores. Rebuild your old one. I have used Aircraft Accessories of OK in the past. I am sorry to say their quality control may have decreased (I'll leave it at that). Quality Aircraft Accessories may be an option. John Breda

Aero Comfort will only provide a boot that is tall, and risks a considerable amount of material be be between the upright Johnson bar and the wheel well cover. This is not want you want as the most important function of the Johnson Bar is to put the gear DOWN. You want to have nothing between the upright bar and the wheel-well, otherwise you will risk not being able to put the gear down. The Factory produced a Johnson bar boot that is essentially flat, but with appropriately placed darts to allow the hole in the material to be immediately adjacent to the pivot point, which is below the floor. There should be some stretch, but the fabrication of the boot should not rely on the stretch of the material much. I should be as wrinkle free as possible. I am changing my boot now as the original one was made of Euroleather and was ripped and worn. I have some stretchy leather which I think will be more durable. The factory used a plastic-like backing, I think to guard against CO. I am not using that as I am trying to make this as simple and as thin as possible, without resorting to crappy materials. John Breda

I have a 1968 F model with a Johnson bar. It is a completely rebuilt and modernized airplane, and of course I have spent a good deal of time thinking about what to do about that hole in the floor. Everything about this airplane is tight and shoe-horned in. The Johnson Bar boot is no exception. Everyone that makes an aftermarket J bar boot does it incorrectly. I did some research in 2005 with the factory and learned how it was done back then. I also have the old part from 1968 (I just can not put my hands on it now). Many people have told me it can not be made from leather, but they were proven wrong as well. I use thin goat hides, make a pyramid, invert the pyramid so the bulk of it is under the floor, and use either a small cuff (or better yet a rubber O ring) sewn into the boot. The leather will stretch and keeping the opening in the boot close to the pivot point under the floor is key. It was a tricky project with lots of experimenting. I am making a new one again and can send pics when finished. John Breda

My thought exactly and I have the evidence to prove it.......

The leading edge is the same, the only difference is the outboard lap joint is riveted son the the outboard leading edge tip is about 1 1/2" lower than usual. It is not really a twisted wing, but rather the outboard wing section has a slightly lower angle of attack. John Breda

I have a 68 F which is highly modified and has a twisted wing. At 10,000 ft, wide open it is a 168 kt airplane, at 10,000 ft at 75% power it is a 160 kt airplane, and at 17,000 ft it is a 170-175 kt airplane. I have heard other say the twisted wing is slower but in my experience, I would say not. Where do you get your information. John Breda

The STEC works, is paid for, and I get to avoid tearing the airplane apart. John Breda

I have some powder from the powder coating left over if you want the name. Matches the lighter color of the 2-tone seats and sidewalls. The contrast between the light panel and black instruments is nice. More modern looking. It stays relatively clean, but I keep the plane very clean regularly. John Breda

I did the install on my 1968 F. My brakes and master cylinders came from a 1998 Ovation. The brake pedals and stems are the same. The master cylinders are updated and installed with DER approval. Most of the time is spent forming the aluminum lines. I also used the Ovation parking brake. Bill Wheat sent me the drawings of what he felt to be the preferred system. He said to stay away for the system that has a shuttle valve. I likely have the drawings in my electronic files. John Breda

You can not legally install another belt buckle onto an existing harness assembly. Further, a new buckle likely will not work with the tongue (what you insert into the buckle) that you already have. I am different than most with a J bar Mooney as I have seat belts from an Ovation. At first, I had the square type Amsafe buckle that open with about a 20 degree lift of the cover. In order to get the buckle out of the way, I had the short side of the belt with the buckle shortened by abut 2 1/2 ". That helped and an Amsafe repair station was able to do that work. That did not solve all of the problem however. I then noticed that the new Mooneys use a curve-shaped buckle that opens with a 90 degree lift of the buckle. I was able to find a set of newer Ovation belts from a salvage yard and changed them out. I then bend the first 1/4" of the cover inward to keep them out of the was if my hand were to brush by. Much better solution. That story may help someone find some hardware that works. However, you can not legally change the Amsafe set-up. You may be able to find some Amsafe seat belt sets with the new 90 degree buckle and attached shoulder belts. In fact, I have a couple of such sets which I purchased on e-bay before I found the Ovation belts. I would be willing to sell them to recoup costs if interested. I can send pictures. John Breda

Polygone is the stuff you want to use. John Breda

Just checking that the Summit has my registration fee from the cancelled 2020 Summit. I should be good for 2021. Please confirm. John Breda

I don't know if my cowling is particularly difficult to remove, but in order to get it on, I have to elevate the front so it fits behind the spinner, then get the back up and forward sufficiently so the firewall flange is between the outer skin and inner portion on the lower cowling. Since I have always done this with 2 people, it seems that this has to be done with each side similarly elevated. Could it be that my J model cowling is tighter and more difficult to install than others? John Breda

I always have been waiting for an assistant before removing and reinstalling my cowling. This gets to be a pain in the Xss and delays my progress. I have a hotel style luggage stand (the type that fold) which I bought to try to prop up the cowling, but have not really given it a try. Wondering if anyone has a procedure the they have used solo for a while the is reliable and which has not caused any cowling or spinner damage? John Breda

I got the system working. Yes, I sucked air in from the reservoir. In order to clear the problem I had to split the system in the middle. I hooked up a pressure pot to the feed line into the hydraulic flap pump and bled the line to the front through the overflow line from the reservoir. I put a clear line onto the outflow and submersed the open end in hydraulic fluid. Then, with a finger, momentarily stopped the line, then opened it with the line submerged to get additional air out under pressure. The pressure pot was disconnected to the front half of the system and the line capped at the pump. Then I connected to the inflow fitting on the pump to the pressure pot and pushed hydraulic fluid from the inflow fitting , through the pump, and into the rear actuator. It took several hours to cycle the flaps, by initially lowering them, and raising them by cracking the cap at the rear actuator to raise them, all the while keeping the pressure pot connected to the inflow (larger) fitting on the flap pump. This was done probably 20 times to insure the pump and rear 1/2 of the system was full and air free. One needs to ensure pressure is maintained at the pressure pot to keep the system supplied with fluid. When the line showed clear consistent fluid leakage (with the rear cap cracked open), the rear actuator cap was closed, and the inflow line (forward 1/2 of the system) was connected to the pump. Then, it took several hours to cycle the flaps again in the same manner, except that the system was filled through the system by the reservoir. One needs to keep the reservoir filled after each cycling of the flaps. Flaps were initially lowered, and raised them by cracking the cap at the rear actuator. This was done probably 20 times. Then the timing for flap retraction was adjusted by the large screw on the forward aspect of the pump. Clockwise to slow flap retraction and counterclockwise to quicken flap retraction. With each reconfiguration, the system needs to be re-bled and reconfigured. The flap cable needs to be rigged. It moves less than 1/4 of of a circle, and needs to bridge the zone of flaps up and flaps down. Start with the cabin handle up and the flap pump lever at 6:00 o'clock. John Breda