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About rotorman

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    Full Member

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  • Location
    Bend OR /Seattle WA
  • Reg #
  • Model
    M20J 24-1033

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  1. My error on the part number. I checked the remaining cap and it is a 531-001. I found one on Ebay from Baspartsale.com This person is no longer selling fuel caps even thought his web site shows them. Said he's out of the fuel cap business. https://www.gallagheraviationllc.com/products.html
  2. I am in need of a Shaw 431-9R fuel cap. If anyone has one to sell please PM me. Thanks.
  3. I need the 6 machine screws and washer that fasten the front of upper cowl. I believe they are #10s. An old one measured at 3/16 x 11/32 but I can't seem to find that size. Anyone have a part #?
  4. I looked at my installation but the part of the instruction that I could not figure out was in step 2. "Loosen the electric pitch trim servo drive chain." I could see no obvious way to accomplish this. It did look as though the grease is old. No evidence of recent greasing and no placard. Any tips on how to loosen the chain?
  5. I'm new to the IOS ver. of GP. On the logbook page and to the left of "Pilot Name" and between the two main columns there is a column of 5 numbers that looks like this: '21, '20, etc. down to '17. They don't seem to serve any purpose. They are not on the Android ver.
  6. Notice that the dipstick is not linear. 8-6 quarts is about the same length on the stick as 4-0. But 6-4 is different. I thought they gave me the wrong dipstick when I got the rebuilt engine because I never noticed this. But the rebuilder assured me this is the way they are.
  7. I have a leak in mine as well. It looks just like the Saf-air but red in color. It's been with the airplane for a long time, maybe as early as 1992. I'd like to rebuild it if it is a Saf-air. Is it obvious how it comes apart? I found a rebuild kit for 8 bucks and would like to give it a shot at the next oil change.
  8. The engine is a rebuild from Western Sky. And it was run. Thanks for reminding me because I have the run numbers. It does appear that my gauge is reading about 10 psi high. The consensus was to check the gauge is sound advice.
  9. I took 3 turns off the spring tension on the regulator and the oil pressure came down from 100 to about 87 psi. So it appears on turn is about 5 psi assuming it is linear. The gauge has been consistent through approximately 1500 hours of my ownership with the previous engine. It only went high after the rebuilt engine was installed. I'm pretty confident that the gauge is as accurate as need be. As an aside, the adjuster on the regulator was not safe tied. The castellated nut on the adjuster is held captive by a pin. The force to move the adjuster is fairly light. It can't be turned by han
  10. I don't the suspect the accuracy of the gauge because the old 2,000 hr plus engine ran with the gauge about centered. It only went high after the rebuilt engine was installed. Where is a good place to tap into the oil system with a direct reading gauge?
  11. I have put about 30 hrs on my rebuilt IO 360 A3B6. From the start the warm oil pressure was high. In the yellow range which on the gauge is pretty narrow. Last flight it was touching the red range. I decided to turn it down. I turned the adjuster out (tension off the spring) 3 turns. I ground ran it with warm (not hot) oil up to about 2000 rpm. The pressure seemed to come down some but I will not know for sure until I fly it again. What effect should I expect from 3 full turns? I wanted to lower from 100 psi to 90.
  12. Slightly different on the 650. But I did find the option. Thanks for posting. Nick
  13. If I load an the incorrect approach at my flight planned destination I can't figure out a way to remove it without deleting the entire flight plane. Is there another way?
  14. One last follow up to this problem. To review, when I the nose wheel was turned to near max left or right, the corresponding brake would pressurize and lock that main wheel. I started to notice that I had a pronounced vibration during takeoff and landing rolls. I speculated I had an out of round tire. I jacked the offending side and found I had a large flat spot on that tire. I am speculating that before I fixed the above problem, I made a crosswind landing that that resulted in significant application of pedal and the tire touched down with the brake applied.
  15. To answer Corusoam's question, there are no marks on the elevator. But since it has a sharp edge, I wouldn't expected that the light contact that occurred would produce any marks on the elevator. I do recall that either on the pre-buy (1994) inspection or during an annual shortly thereafter, some corrosion was found on a rod. It was cleaned and repainted. I'll check the logs. I will also perform the check Skip suggests. Clarence, can I visually inspect that the travel stops? Nick
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