M20F-1968

I would not be looking to burn the last 11 gallons on a long distance flight. The best way to tell what you have burned is to have a fuel totalizer. I would not rely on the tank gauges if you are looking to dip into the last 11 gallons. John Breda

Designated Engineering Representative. These are people who are recognized to make engineering decisions in the FAA's stead. They like this because it keeps them out of the decision-making process, lightens the workload, and theoretically lightens the liability. John Breda

I finally after many years learned how to make the Johnson Bar Boot as the factory did in the late 1960's. It is a bit involved. First you need to know what the thickest piece of leather you can use is which will not inhibit locking the gear when you bring it up. For my airplane that is about 0.040" thick. I have an installation which works exceedingly well, will not bind up, and looks good. I'll get some pictures for you in the next few days. John Breda

R model brake pedals and master cylinders will work. I have them in my 68F. You might need to do some paperwork. I did it using a DER. John Breda

I just recently sent my Bendix mags out. As I recall, they have lock washers that are part of the screw assembly are are about $8 apiece to buy. Are your Slick mags. It would seem that there should be a locking device. Keeping those 4 wires in place is pretty important. John Breda

FYI: I have an old Singer sewing machine that I was given when I was a kid. I used it to make Johnson Bar boots. It is straight stitch only. It is one of two models Singer made with a "potted" motor. That means, the motor is mounted directly on the Sewing machine. Model 15-91 (the one I have) was knick-named the "Farmer's Wife's Machine" It has the bobbin the a vertical position. The other has a bobbin in the horizontal position. Both are similar. The second one was used by Rolls Royce to sew their leather seats. My machine worked well for the job I did. You need good leather needles. Thinking about making some sheep skin seat covers when I have time. John Breda

Good find. I have two Kennon covers bought used. You can get a shop to sew you a new N number badge. What did it cost you? John Breda

How did I make that error. Of course, LOP range is considerably more! John Breda

I cut the hinge off of mine, and am able to hold it in the pilot's window with just the plastic window lock in the airplane. I painted it red just so you do not forget that it is there. John Breda

My F (functionally really a J) is a great combination of efficiency, simplicity and economy. The vintage systems, Johnson bar and hydraulic flaps, side-step the complexity and maintenance troubleshooting of the more modern systems. (I just sent my Precise Flight series 2000 speedbrakes in due to a sensor failure. Turns out, Precise Flight has had problems with the sensors and has gone to microswitches. Cost for repair about $2000.) I am on the edge between continuing to work and simply retiring. My present plane is likely the best of the choices for a retirement plane. The turbonormalizer turns it into a very different airplane than either the original F or J. The turbonormalizer should be brought back at a reasonable cost as it is a viable choice v. trading for a factory turbo. Maintenance of a turbonormalized airplane is much less than a turbo boosted airplane. The operating costs make it easier to continue flying. At 10,000 feet it is a 160 kt airplane at 75% power, 10.5-11.0 gph. With everything full forward it is a 168 kt plane. At 17,000 - 18,000 it is in the 170 - 180 kt plane. With 90 gallons it has long legs. LOP of course range is much less. UL 993. Yes it is slower than an Ovation, but not considerably slower. When considering it against a Brand P (I do not want to use that word on this forum) Arrow using essentially the same engine it is about 30% faster. I am still impressed with what the The Mooney brothers accomplished in their day which has stood the test of time. John Breda

As I posted my last message I thought of the Phillips X-country aviation oil bottle. Perhaps it would work turned on its side, cut open to fit over the filter with the spout in the lowest position. John Breda

I have no cowl side panels as I converted to a J model cowling. I do not think it will work without removing the lower cowling. But, you have got me thinking about cutting up a medium size detergent bottle that may be close to the oil filter in size. perhaps with a non-centered spout where I could attach a hose. I may have to bring an oil filter to the grocery store.... John Breda

I like the idea, but I usually am alone and need two people to remove and install the lower cowling. I assume you can not use this if the lower cowling is on. You made me start thinking about taking a plastic bottle, cutting it appropriately so as to make a trough with a plastic hose to carry the oil away. John Breda

FYI: I recently hired an A&P mechanic to reinstall my prop. He brought with him a Snap-On torque wrench which have interchangeable heads. I looked into this further and the range needed for many of our needs (such as installing a Hartzell Prop with 3/4" bolts) in a QC2I75. https://shop.snapon.com/product/Torque-Wrench-Bodies-Adjustable/Adjustable-Torque-Wrench-Body/QC2I75 https://shop.snapon.com/product/Open-End-Heads%2C-inches/3-4"-Square-Drive-Open-End-Head%2C-J-Shank/QJO24A https://shop.snapon.com/product/Open-End-Heads%2C-inches/1"-Square-Drive-Open-End-Head%2C-J-Shank/QJO32A The heads are a standard 2 1/2" long so no extra math needed. For installing my prop, I found a this Snap-On wrench in great shape, within specifications, on e-bay for less than $100 and the 3/4" head for $50. I am not saying that you need this to put on an oil filter, but I was unaware of these torque wrenches with interchangeable heads. Also, I have a Snap-On 3/8" Drive torque wrench which I use for oil filter changes and other jobs. It is another e-bay find for about $100.00 and was in new condition. Part No. QD2FR75B https://shop.snapon.com/product/US-Torque-Instruments%3A-Dual-Scale-(ft-lb-N•m)/3-8"-Drive-SAE-Adjustable-Click-Type-Flex-Head-Torque-Wrench-(5-75-ft-lb)/QD2FR75B They take some time to find but are out there. John Breda

On missed approach, should the S-TEC be in HDG mode or NAV mode. Is there a vertical climb component to the S-TEC on missed approach? Does the position of the GPSS (HDG v. GPS) switch on the panel make any difference on a missed approach? John Breda

I have an S tech 60 – 2 autopilot with the S-Tec Altitude preselector along the S-TEC GPSS, Garmin GTN 750 and GTN 650. The system is working and I am able to track both GPS and ILS/LOC sources. However, if I haven't used the system for bit I find one aspect of the buttonology confusing. I have a button on my panel which switches between HDG and GPS (Which should probably be labeled GPSS). There is a CDI button on each of the three Garmin boxes; G600, GTN750, GTN650. When I have not use the system for a while I always have to go out and practice in VF are conditions to remind myself configuration of these buttons for the application intended. In general the panel mounted HDG/GPS button is placed in HDG mode for heading only operation using the heading bug for directional guidance. If not using the heading bug, that same button should be in GPS mode. GPS mode on the panel mounted button will provide for GPS tracking, LPV approaches, and ILS/LOC approaches depending on how the CDI buttons are set on the Garmin units (G600 and GTN750/650). Now we start getting into the subtleties of my configuration and other possible configurations of the Garmin installation. When I was learning the system I made sure that the CDI button on the G 600 and the GTN unit I was using were set to the same setting, either GPS or VLOC. In retrospect, I am not sure whether the setting of the CDI button on the garment G 600 matters at all. Changing the CDI on the GTN unit changes the display from GPS to VLOC. If my memory serves me correctly, Garmin stated to me that there only needs to be one CDI button to change the configuration being used from GPS to VLOC. When the buttons are set properly the unit will fly the approach, holding pattern, and missed approach as expected. However, when needs to be clear what the proper button selection is and it can be forgotten or confusing if not used in the recent past. Thus, I question whether there can be different configurations selected which allows the units to operate with less confusion and more straightforwardly. I am presently not remembering exactly the button configuration for a missed approach will hold after either an ILS or GPS approach. As I recall, one presses activate missed approach on the GTN 650 and it changes the display on the G 600 to display the magenta line of the missed approach heading without vertical management, and in order to capture that heading I need to press the HDG button on the panel. However, since I have not done this in a few months I need to go out on the VFR conditions to confirm. I am hoping the group has people who are operating this equipment who can tell me if there is more optimal way to configure my system to make it more intuitive and to clarify whether my memory of operations is correct, particularly on applying the missed approach. Is there a way for the autopilot to climb per the missed approach instructions? As for the autopilot buttons, I recognize that the approach must be activated near the approach, at an angle less than about 45° and at a location below the glide slope. Activation is accomplished by pressing the NAV button. If being vectored, a two button approach can be used, pressing both HDG and NAV. The autopilot will follow the heading bug until it sees the approach and then will switch to approach mode and follow the approach and bound. On all S-TEC autopilots, heading mode must be selected before ALT can be selected. Once ALT is selected, there is no way to cancel simply the altitude selection without canceling all functions on the autopilot and starting again by first selecting a heading mode. The ST-360 altitude preselector is activated by pressing the VS and ALT buttons simultaneously. The difficulty with the 60 – 2 autopilot is that it was designed before LPV and GPS/GPSS steering were invented. The buttonology is designed to trick the autopilot into thinking the GPS guidance looks and acts like an ILS. The button combinations can be confusing and I need to find a better way to remember what works, and also learn about any possible configuration of the system, either by hardwiring or programming that will make it more foolproof. John Breda

It will stretch out longer onto the tailcone but that is a good thing. It would fit better if you had a 201 windshield. It should work in any case. You can always tailor it to fit if you need to take in some loose cloth. You should likely pay no more than about $150 used. As an occasional membor of the CB club, I have purchased all of my covers online used. But they all are in like new condition. You can even take off the N number and have Bruce make a new one for about $35. Then, sew it on yourself (I have a pot motor Singer that is great for straight sewing canvas and leather). Apparently Rolls Royce used these machines to sew their upholstery. They too can be found used. John Breda

I have the newer Ovation seat belts in my plane that use Amsafe buckles that do not unlatch until the top is opened 90 degrees. Before I found them, I was digging on ebay for seatbelts with the same buckle. I found some along with an extension. That may be a place to find an extension that matches your belts. John Breda

Jimmy: I would like a copy of your Vintage Evaluation. You can send it to my e-mail (john.breda@gmail.com) if possible. John Breda

My post was listed without the information requested by Jimmy. It is: Name: John Breda Email address: john.breda@gmail.com Phone contact: (617) 877-0025 If Owner, The tail number: N954N

My post was listed without the information requested by Jimmy. It is: Name: John Breda Email address: john.breda@gmail.com Phone contact: (617) 877-0025 If Owner, The tail number: N954N

My post was listed without the information requested by Jimmy. It is: Name: John Breda Email address: john.breda@gmail.com Phone contact: (617) 877-0025 If Owner, The tail number> N954N

Jimmy, I would like to add support to Marauder's comments and some data from my plane that is off the charts. I have a 1968 F which is completely rebuilt from an empty shell. It is a unique plane. It came into being when I purchased it after it sat for 26 years in a hangar in Dallas. After its rebuild, it has been appraised by a certified appraiser on Long Island, NY at $250,000.00 and is presently insured for that much. When I started the project I was two years out of residency (I am an M.D.), was working too much, and could not afford the distraction and time needed to travel and be an informed bidder in the market. When I found this plane on e-bay, I sent Russell Stallings to take it apart more than it already was and report if it was a good project plane. He supported my idea to rebuild it. The end result is an airplane that looks and acts like a new Mooney. It has long legs (90 gallons), is turbo normalized, the structural cage has been modified to accept an Ovation style panel (with an instrument bow), most if not all 201 upgrades and many parts installed via DER approval from a 1998 Ovation. It has won a Lindy Award (best of show in class) at Oshkosh 2019, Outstanding Mooney at Oshkosh in 2018, and Best F model at the 2017 MAPA meeting. I would obviously like to see the envelope expanded to recognize the work, money and effort that those of us have made to keep these efficient vintage birds flying. I was able to find insurers that recognized that a completely rebuilt airplane is one of a kind and its value is not dictated by Book Value. It is this notion that has given rise to Mooney modifications over the past 30 years. Now that the factory is no longer building new planes, restoration of the existing fleet makes sense, especially if it can be done competently and within an expected predictable budget. There has been a lot of conversation over the near 20 years that I have been around the Mooney community that some want to 201 to return. That is what I have done and others can do as well as there are more owners experienced in the process. The vintage planes are great traveling machines after new equipment and updates are applied. They are also great retirement planes as maintenance in controllable. My thanks to Jimmy for his work considering the value offered by these birds. John Breda

The trim and flap indicators were installed differently depending upon the yer of manufacture. The single solid wire is steel and I doubt that you can solder to it. A better connection would to use silver solder (as opposed to lead solder) but you will need an acetyline and oxygen set-up (or similar to do it). You could try to crimp a ring terminal to the wire but I would try to bend it in such a way that it won't come off. I am using a J model indicator in my 1968 F (with DER approval). A picture of a hand lay-up fiberglass wheel well cover and the back-side of the indicator showing the connections is below. John Breda

I had my check valves rebuild ten years ago by the manufacturer (I do not recall their name just now - it may have been Dukes). As I recall, the rebuild price was about $250.00. John Breda