M20F-1968

I recently decided to R & R my slightly leaking flap pump. Installed the new pump and followed in instructions I was given from a good source which called for bleeding the system from the inflow line to the pump first forward to the reservoir overflow. Then there is a burping process when the line remains submerged in 5606 and the line is temporarily blocked by a finger, emitting small bubbles when released. Once no more air is seen, reattaching the line, pump down the flaps, and cycled the flaps, bleeding each round from the actuator. This all worked predictable and the flaps worked well. However, I had a gravity fill line up front which did not work and I emptied the reservoir. I thought I was almost doe when mid- fourth flap cycle the handle went limp and feels like it is pumping air. The question is, do I now need to bleed differently given that it seems there is air in the pump? It has been suggested that some dirt is holding one of the little balls open. What is the quickest way to troubleshoot this problem? Some have suggested that I bleed from the actuator clear to the reservoir. John Breda

Cutting down hoses are not difficult. Put a hose clamp around the hose where you want it cut, and take a sharp pocket knife and use the edge of the hose clamp as a straight edge and trim away. You can cut a1little at a time off to fir the hose and the cut comes out clean and straight. John Breda

I went onto the website when I posted it. I had no difficulties. I do not think there are associated risks. John Breda

What I am really saying is if VFR: 10-15 miles. If long cross-country on an IFR flight plan, I ask for lower early, point the nose slightly down so I do not need to do much to reconfigure the plane, gain back my energy and fuel costs from my initial climb, give tower early notification by requesting a descent, and enjoy the ride and the added airspeed. John Breda

Gradual descent is nice... Start down as far out as it takes and as able for a 300 ft. per minute gradual descent. John Breda

Nidal, I placed an order for the 100' version before I received your reply. In looking at your recent messages, the unannounced "zone" for the 70' version starts at 130 AGK, and the "zone" for the 100' version starts at 200' It would seem that the 100' version gives an extra 40' to stabilize the glide picture before it begins announcing. Is that assumption correct. If so, could that lead to greater stability of locking in the laser picture of descent? I'll follow the posts and rethink my order to a possible change to the 70' if that makes sense. Feel free to provide further input. John Breda

I just went through this. Call Belair Composites, Spokane, WA They will have what you need. https://belaircomposites.com/ Let me know what you found when you do the install. I just replaced hoses, intercooler lord mounts, etc... John Breda

Say you are landing a in an area (perhaps at night) with some adjacent hills. I expect you will see a more rapid drop in altitude over terrain, then an increase in ground clearance when over the "bump." I make this comment in reference to the 300' capability you might program in the future. In essence, could there be more versatility in the future if choosing the 100' version now? John Breda

I will be ordering one, a couple of questions through: I see an installation that may be helpful with the 100' version: Say you are landing a in an area (perhaps at night) with some adjacent hills. I expect you will see a more rapid drop in altitude over terrain, then an increase in ground clearance when over the "bump." This might be good to confirm. Will the 100' version potentially have more capability when the new software is sorted out, in which case it might be beneficial to choose that option at this time. Is the laser in the 100' foot version more robust and different from a standpoint of longevity? John Breda

Install rudder pedai extenders. The plane will feel like it has more shoulder room as well. John Breda

I have the one piece belly panel off now and was going to do a waterless was and then coat with Gtechniq C2V3 so it would hopefully be easier to keep clean. I assume that is a reasonable plan. Any comments? John Breda

The best structural repair shop I know of is Beegles Aircraft, Colorado. They are first class, do excellent work and are trustworthy. John Breda

If you are grabbing the horizontal stabilizer you are testing play at the "Jesus bolts." if there is a 1/2 of play you are in trouble. If you are grabbing the empennage below the rudder, you are testing either play in the trim or the Jesus bolt. The Jesus bolts (one each side) are structural, minimal tolerance bolts that should show almost no play at all. Rather than guess, have someone who knows the Mooney airframe to take a look at it. John Breda

The corrected version is: Review your medical history with your physician and try to figure out why you are getting the symptoms that you are. As mentioned, many times the symptoms of hypoxia are different in each person. Decreased alertness, increased sense of well-being, failure to recognize cognitive errors, or even no symptoms at all just before you pass out can describe some of the symptoms, and there are many other variations not mentioned. Numbness and tingling can be symptoms of hypoxia, but they are also well-known symptoms of decreased CO2 alkalemia. This can be caused by breathing too fast and blowing off CO2 creating an alkaline blood pH. On the ground this can be corrected by holding your breath or breathing into a bag, which would increase blood CO2 levels. Your pulmonary status, age, altitude where you are living, hemoglobin and hematocrit levels, and medical history all will affect the outcome and the symptoms at various altitudes when flying. You should do a bit of experimenting with your physician on the ground, with exercise, with and without oxygen supplementation. Use of a carbon monoxide detector in the cockpit would be helpful to rule out a carbon monoxide problem. Oxygen supplementation at the time of symptoms will be helpful to rule out degrees of hypoxia. Also remember that pulse oximetry will show a normal oxygen saturation in the face of carbon monoxide poisoning. John Breda

See corrections above. John Breda

Review your medical history you with your physician and try to figure out why getting the symptoms that you are. As mentioned many times here symptoms of hypoxia are different in each person. Decreased alertness, increased sense of well-being, failure to recognize cognitive errors, or even no symptoms at all just before you pass out can describe some of the symptoms, and there are many other variations not mentioned. Numbness and tingling can be symptoms of hypoxia, but they are also well-known symptoms of decreased CO2 and applied it how alkalemia. This can be caused by breathing too fast and blowing off CO2 creating an alkaline blood pH. On the ground this can be corrected by holding your breath or breathing into a bag, which would increase blood CO2 levels. Your pulmonary status, age, altitude where you are living, hemoglobin and hematocrit levels, and medical history all will affect the outcome and the symptoms at various altitudes when flying. You should do a bit of experimenting with your physician on the ground, with exercise, and with oxygen supplementation. Use of a carbon monoxide in the cockpit would be helpful to rule out a CO problem. Oxygen supplementation at the time of symptoms well fine would be helpful to rule out degrees of hypoxia. Also remember that pulse oximetry will show a normal oxygen saturation in the face of carbon monoxide poisoning. John Breda

I have the oxygen system from a 1998 Ovation in my F. What is the "special tool" used to remove the bezel around the pressure gauge? John Breda

Actually, my JPI 930 is also connected to the main bus so it and the G600 are on when the master is on. John Breda

I have a sure fired way of reminding myself that the master is on, kind of expensive though... Per STC the Garmin 600 is hard wired to the main bus. It is aways on when the master switch is on. May be that way with other avionics in other applications as well. John Breda

The airbox and flapper valve is a weak link in the original RaJay system. The flapper may seem closed, but a small leak can bleed off the pressure differential to the point that the turbo never starts fully spinning. John Breda

Sheryl Loewen should know however if LASAR still offers that MOD. I just looked at the LASAR web site (https://lasar.com/mods) and the steering horn MOD is shown as unavailable. It does say that they will rebuild your old steering horn which would be the way I would go. John Breda

It is likely easier to rebuild the steering horn than change to the LASAR Mod which may not be offered any longer. John Breda

The most reliable way is a fuel totalizer, a pen, some paper and simple math, crossed referenced by the other suggestions above. I think you will find the fuel totalizer to be the most accurate of them (and of course the CIES senders and JPI 930 which you do not have). If you are using the original 69 F model senders, you should upgrade to at least the Rochester senders. I recently changed to the CIES senders and have several rebuilt Rochester senders for sale with certification of the rebuild by Airparts of Lockhaven). John Breda

There is a one piece belly on e-bay for sale. I do not know for which model. It possibly can be shorted if need be. Fiberglass can be remodeled easily. The one piece belly mod is not for the faint at heart. There is structure removed and new structure installed. You will need documentation such as an STC or DER approval. John Breda

I have a 1968 F with chrome cylinders. They should not affect temperatures at all. They are very difficult to break in however. Run the airplane like you stole it. I used Phillips X-country 20/50 for break in and still use it. Oil usage will probably be higher than other cylinders. The good thing is they will not rust. It may take 100 hours or more to break them in. John Breda