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M20F-1968

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Everything posted by M20F-1968

  1. Then there should be a serious mismatch between the fuel totalizer and the tank gauges, which should be taken as a red flag. This scenario argues to keep ALL available equipment working properly. Multiple instruments which corroborate other instruments are helpful to identify problems you can not otherwise directly see. John Breda
  2. bd32322 - Where are you located in MA? I too am in MA and I know that Marshfield has given people problems over storing non-aviation stuff. I knew of one owner that had two hangars at Marshfield. He was storing some sewing machines related to his business. He got into an argument with the airport management, moved his plane to Plymouth, and sold his two hangars. I almost bought one of them. John Breda
  3. The wing mounted gauges are meant to be accurate as to volume only on the ground. A fuel totalizer (assuming the K factor is adjusted correctly) is a great help. Keeping track of how much fuel actually used each 1/2 hour is very helpful. The fuel flow is measured constantly with a small water-wheel type device in the fuel line. A note pad and timer is all the extra equipment needed. The Cies senders are much improved and consistent. Completely Digital set-up is best. John Breda
  4. I sold my last one a couple of years ago. John Breda
  5. Seth, Where are you located? As part of my rebuild, I changed the structural cage to look like the new models. I did so with a DER and a DAR did the welding. The DAR was Lucky at Dallas are salvage. You can give him a call. John Breda
  6. I have not installed my kit and will not be doing so until early July at annual. I would be interested in installing the new firmware when we are doing the install. Please advise by posting here, or sending me a PM, or e-mailing me at john.breda@gmail.com. Thanks, John Breda
  7. There are several posts advising that rebuild is recommended (or at least IRAN). However, given this number of hours and the history of sitting, IMO overhaul is the only choice, along with at least a rebuilt prop, but new preferred, and rebuilt or new accessories. Check the engine mount for cracks and change the engine mount shock disks. The only motivation for not doing this now seems to be an attempt to eek-out an additional 300 hours. This is not a wise choice given even a quick assessment of the risk reward equation of what an accident could look like when unrecognized damage reveals itself. You were fortunate enough to get the plane cheaply. Don't be cheap now that it is yours. Don't allow a great opportunity turn into the worst nightmare you could imagine! John Breda
  8. This is an amazing find, especially if there is no corrosion to deal with. As someone who rebuilt an airplane with the intention to keep longterm, count your blessings as you will be in a financially good position to do what is right to create a safe and capable airplane. For what it is worth, I started my panel with a Garmin 530 and audio panel above it. When the GTN's came out, it was a no brainer to put in a GTN750 and GTN 650. The GTN750 will fit into the opening if you remove the 530 and audio panel and install the GTN750 with a blind audio panel. It will cost some money but you will be glad you did. BUT FIRST, get the engine, all accessories and turbo rebuilt. John Breda
  9. It depends on how new your Ovation is. If it has the more tear-drop shaped buckle with which you must open the buckle cover almost 90 degrees to unlatch, I have either an extension belt or hardware you can use. If it is the older square buckle, you will need to find the parts and have the webbing sewn up. John Breda
  10. I did not use the Loprest Cowling. It has problems with a turbonormalizer as the intake opening are too small. Also, I liked the structure of the 201 cowling which is what I used. John Breda
  11. If I have wheel well liners, do I really need the Rat Socks? John Breda
  12. Obtain thread sizes and distance and size of the mounting holes from Spruce or other. Drill out and replace. A pneumatic rivet squeezer will likely be helpful if it fits, or a hand squeezer. John Breda
  13. I have a small roll of Sunbrella fabric (the stuff cabin covers are made of). Think that might work? John Breda
  14. The corrugated control surfaces have no internal structure. The formed corrugation are the structure. If you damage 1 skin, you likely have damaged both. There is no internal structure to save or rebuild. John Breda
  15. If your part has ribs and a smooth skin, send your part to Beegles Aircraft, Greeley, CO. They will get a new skin and rebuild it. If it is of the Corrugated variety as is everything after about 1969, then you are SOL as there are really only two parts, the two corrugated skins riveted together. John Breda
  16. This is not just a screw in place and be done project. Although the ceiling curvature and width of the cabin is the same, the length of the panels and the window openings need to be fitted to the airframe. Since the panels are fiberglass, they can be modified, sanded, and sculpted as needed. If you want to modify the contours to fit against the lower side panels, you can use Bondo, sculpt and sand the material when it is soft, and use hand scrapers made for removing and shaping bondo while it dries (which takes about 15-30 minutes), then sand and finish. Once you have the shape you want, hand lay-up a layer or two of fiberglass to make the shape hard and protect it. I used the airframe as a mold by protecting it with Saran wrap and then Layed-up a layer of fiberglass, let it dry, mark the outline of the windows with a sharpie, cut the window opening and sand to finish. The worker need not be a Mooney mechanic, just a good fiberglass worker that knows airplanes. An EAA builder would be great. John Breda
  17. I think the interior of the Ovation in Europe has been sold. Certainly can e-mail the seller to confirm. I would try to get the cost of the center ceiling part from the factory. John Breda
  18. When I installed the Rosen Visors I thought I would cut them down to a smaller size. Then I realized that all I need to do is store them longitudinally against the roof. That way, you get maximum shade coverage, and they store quite nicely with no modifications needed. John Breda
  19. V1VrV2 - sent you a PM. John Breda
  20. I know the general wisdom is that forward of the aft end of the steel cage, the steel cage and wing are structural, and everything else is there to keep the wind out. However, the windshield is exposed to significant pressure and is supported by the cowl deck. I am not saying it can not be done, but I am saying that someone may look at it a more than a minor alteration and ask that a DER be involved working through the numbers. I do not see where opening it up further would make it seal better. Placing a better flange and better seal is a different story. John Breda
  21. Hello. I am a senior AME located in the Boston, MA area and also a Mooney owner. I am a board certified internist for over twenty years and have been an AME since 2005. I do work to assist pilots through the SI process, and recognized the angst the process and instill when the pilot is a first class airline pilot whose livelihood is on the line. It sounds like you have done a good job getting your ducks in line. The good news is that the FAA really does not want to pull your medical. You and society have made a large investment to get you to where you are. You need to provide the FAA everything they have asked for. Focus on the process you need to follow to get your medical. Unless you have a choice to move elsewhere, focusing on what is done elsewhere is an exercise in futility. If you need AME assistance, my cell phone is (617) 877-0025 and my e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com. John Breda
  22. I am doing some cleaning up of my F and the rat socks were torn and unusable. I have been looking for what would be appropriate to replace them with. One problem seems to be that the material gets pulled past the hole in the sheet metal when the gear is retracted, tearing-up the rat sock. LASAR makes them out of lighter material - gaberdine cloth Aero Comfort makes them out of leather, and says Mooney makes them from leather, but I have never heard of Mooney doing so. It also would seem that leather would get wet and subsequently get hard. I have a set that are thicker cloth. I have had them apparently for over 15 years and do not remember how I got them. The newer Mooneys have an inner cage with a much more complex arrangement. I have the wheel well liners, so I question whether I even need them. If I do need them, now are they glued in? 3M yellow trim adhesive has been recommended by LASAR and 3M Black super adhesive was recommended by my mechanic. The black stuff is probably better, but probably a PITA to get off. Recommendations please......... John Breda
  23. I also have a Powertow EZ I bought from a guy who was parting out an F. I started it once or twice, bought a new belt for the pulleys underneath the deck, but never used it. Perhaps you can give me a sense of how you us and its details in operation. I may take the time to det mine working. Generally I think the Sidewinder is easier to use, but then there is ice and snow in NE when the Powertow may be better. John Breda
  24. Three words, Digital Progressive lenses. John Breda
  25. I have owned and used both the Robotow and the Sidewinder. The Sidewinder seems to have more power, can be folded and carried in the plane, and is well made. The traction of the Sidewinder is better, even in snow. I got rid of the Robotow and now just have the sidewinder. I would go that route even given the price difference. John Breda
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