M20F-1968

This is an amazing find, especially if there is no corrosion to deal with. As someone who rebuilt an airplane with the intention to keep longterm, count your blessings as you will be in a financially good position to do what is right to create a safe and capable airplane. For what it is worth, I started my panel with a Garmin 530 and audio panel above it. When the GTN's came out, it was a no brainer to put in a GTN750 and GTN 650. The GTN750 will fit into the opening if you remove the 530 and audio panel and install the GTN750 with a blind audio panel. It will cost some money but you will be glad you did. BUT FIRST, get the engine, all accessories and turbo rebuilt. John Breda

It depends on how new your Ovation is. If it has the more tear-drop shaped buckle with which you must open the buckle cover almost 90 degrees to unlatch, I have either an extension belt or hardware you can use. If it is the older square buckle, you will need to find the parts and have the webbing sewn up. John Breda

I did not use the Loprest Cowling. It has problems with a turbonormalizer as the intake opening are too small. Also, I liked the structure of the 201 cowling which is what I used. John Breda

If I have wheel well liners, do I really need the Rat Socks? John Breda

Obtain thread sizes and distance and size of the mounting holes from Spruce or other. Drill out and replace. A pneumatic rivet squeezer will likely be helpful if it fits, or a hand squeezer. John Breda

I have a small roll of Sunbrella fabric (the stuff cabin covers are made of). Think that might work? John Breda

The corrugated control surfaces have no internal structure. The formed corrugation are the structure. If you damage 1 skin, you likely have damaged both. There is no internal structure to save or rebuild. John Breda

If your part has ribs and a smooth skin, send your part to Beegles Aircraft, Greeley, CO. They will get a new skin and rebuild it. If it is of the Corrugated variety as is everything after about 1969, then you are SOL as there are really only two parts, the two corrugated skins riveted together. John Breda

This is not just a screw in place and be done project. Although the ceiling curvature and width of the cabin is the same, the length of the panels and the window openings need to be fitted to the airframe. Since the panels are fiberglass, they can be modified, sanded, and sculpted as needed. If you want to modify the contours to fit against the lower side panels, you can use Bondo, sculpt and sand the material when it is soft, and use hand scrapers made for removing and shaping bondo while it dries (which takes about 15-30 minutes), then sand and finish. Once you have the shape you want, hand lay-up a layer or two of fiberglass to make the shape hard and protect it. I used the airframe as a mold by protecting it with Saran wrap and then Layed-up a layer of fiberglass, let it dry, mark the outline of the windows with a sharpie, cut the window opening and sand to finish. The worker need not be a Mooney mechanic, just a good fiberglass worker that knows airplanes. An EAA builder would be great. John Breda

I think the interior of the Ovation in Europe has been sold. Certainly can e-mail the seller to confirm. I would try to get the cost of the center ceiling part from the factory. John Breda

When I installed the Rosen Visors I thought I would cut them down to a smaller size. Then I realized that all I need to do is store them longitudinally against the roof. That way, you get maximum shade coverage, and they store quite nicely with no modifications needed. John Breda

V1VrV2 - sent you a PM. John Breda

I know the general wisdom is that forward of the aft end of the steel cage, the steel cage and wing are structural, and everything else is there to keep the wind out. However, the windshield is exposed to significant pressure and is supported by the cowl deck. I am not saying it can not be done, but I am saying that someone may look at it a more than a minor alteration and ask that a DER be involved working through the numbers. I do not see where opening it up further would make it seal better. Placing a better flange and better seal is a different story. John Breda

Hello. I am a senior AME located in the Boston, MA area and also a Mooney owner. I am a board certified internist for over twenty years and have been an AME since 2005. I do work to assist pilots through the SI process, and recognized the angst the process and instill when the pilot is a first class airline pilot whose livelihood is on the line. It sounds like you have done a good job getting your ducks in line. The good news is that the FAA really does not want to pull your medical. You and society have made a large investment to get you to where you are. You need to provide the FAA everything they have asked for. Focus on the process you need to follow to get your medical. Unless you have a choice to move elsewhere, focusing on what is done elsewhere is an exercise in futility. If you need AME assistance, my cell phone is (617) 877-0025 and my e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com. John Breda

I am doing some cleaning up of my F and the rat socks were torn and unusable. I have been looking for what would be appropriate to replace them with. One problem seems to be that the material gets pulled past the hole in the sheet metal when the gear is retracted, tearing-up the rat sock. LASAR makes them out of lighter material - gaberdine cloth Aero Comfort makes them out of leather, and says Mooney makes them from leather, but I have never heard of Mooney doing so. It also would seem that leather would get wet and subsequently get hard. I have a set that are thicker cloth. I have had them apparently for over 15 years and do not remember how I got them. The newer Mooneys have an inner cage with a much more complex arrangement. I have the wheel well liners, so I question whether I even need them. If I do need them, now are they glued in? 3M yellow trim adhesive has been recommended by LASAR and 3M Black super adhesive was recommended by my mechanic. The black stuff is probably better, but probably a PITA to get off. Recommendations please......... John Breda

I also have a Powertow EZ I bought from a guy who was parting out an F. I started it once or twice, bought a new belt for the pulleys underneath the deck, but never used it. Perhaps you can give me a sense of how you us and its details in operation. I may take the time to det mine working. Generally I think the Sidewinder is easier to use, but then there is ice and snow in NE when the Powertow may be better. John Breda

Three words, Digital Progressive lenses. John Breda

I have owned and used both the Robotow and the Sidewinder. The Sidewinder seems to have more power, can be folded and carried in the plane, and is well made. The traction of the Sidewinder is better, even in snow. I got rid of the Robotow and now just have the sidewinder. I would go that route even given the price difference. John Breda

Which is helpful in turbulence and when you want to make sure the plane is doing what the autopilot wants to do in a reliable and responsive manner. Hand flying is faster, more decisive and more reliable than complete autopilot control when it is clear what should be done. John Breda

When I rebuilt my 1968 F, the jackscrew was replaced with a new one taken from one of the unfinished Ovations on the factory line from when the factory closed in 2009. I bought it through Russel Stallings shop in about 2010. Any idea if my vintage jackscrew has the pictured lubrication plugs and uses oil and not grease. Did I interpret this correctly? John Breda

There are more and more scams that impersonate websites. When dealing with websites, always check the URL to confirm that it makes sense. If making a donation to Mooneyspace or anywhere else, pay directly through a process you originate. Do not accept a process originated by someone else. John Breda

The link I just posted is for the solder terminal version. The screw terminal version is V3-1. I bought that switch on e-bay for $5.70. Same part No. as the damaged one I removed. Here is a couple of links for that part number: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MICRO-SWITCH-P-N-V3-1-NS-COND-13259-5/293660124362?hash=item445f81e4ca:g:0nwAAOSwu5BfGefx https://www.ebay.com/itm/Piper-487-925-Switch-V3-1/324407862726?hash=item4b883725c6:g:0b4AAOSwJgxeYQ4m John Breda

Try this e-bay link. I have seen them priced under $10.00 for several. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRCRAFT-MICROSWITCH-BY-Honeywell-V3-19-New/264065502211?hash=item3d7b87cc03:g:X4oAAOSwe~lcAUe9 John Breda

When I place my plane on jacks, it is always on 4 points. Two Meyers jacks with locking pins on each, a hydraulic engine hoist with a locking collar and a cement tail weight on wheels made for the aircraft. In that configuration it is quite stable. John Breda

I have the P2 system, and the gentlemen who states once, "Gear is down for landing" can fade into the background. It is harder to ignore the female voice nagging, "Check Gear...Check Gear...Check Gear...Check Gear........" John Breda