M20F-1968

The trim and flap indicators were installed differently depending upon the yer of manufacture. The single solid wire is steel and I doubt that you can solder to it. A better connection would to use silver solder (as opposed to lead solder) but you will need an acetyline and oxygen set-up (or similar to do it). You could try to crimp a ring terminal to the wire but I would try to bend it in such a way that it won't come off. I am using a J model indicator in my 1968 F (with DER approval). A picture of a hand lay-up fiberglass wheel well cover and the back-side of the indicator showing the connections is below. John Breda

I had my check valves rebuild ten years ago by the manufacturer (I do not recall their name just now - it may have been Dukes). As I recall, the rebuild price was about $250.00. John Breda

This is one example where standard rate turns, or less, are imperative. I do not like turning toward a tank with less than 10 gallons. A more precise answer would be nice to have. John Breda

I do not like the thought of fuel planning down to 1 gallon. Knowing how much fuel is in the tank is essential and can be coupled with a fuel totalizer and paper and pen quite nicely. CIES senders help as well. But, a left hand turn to final with 1 gallon in your left tank will get your attention quickly. John Breda

The factory seatbelts I have came from an Ovation. The retraction assembly is welded to the steel cage near the floor. I did this welding when I had the airplane apart and was doing my rebuild. Installing the Ovation "factory seatbelts" is not trivial. The inertia reels do not simply attach in the same way as the fixed belts would. John Breda

I likely have a set that you can use. Sounds like you have a suitable fixed attachment point for the shoulder belt. John Breda

Please add me to the list. I am based in the Boston area. My e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com Thanks, John Breda

There have been a number of variations on my paint scheme. I think mine makes the plane look longer and less cluttered. The difference seems to be that the maroon red belly does not come up as high as others on the side and the combination of the red and gold striping underplay the overall picture so it does not look to heavy or overdone. I wanted to use white for the top as in reflects more light and heat so there is less issues in the summer sun. John Breda

You might just be surprised. I brought my plane to NJ for work just before COVID in March, 2020. I did just what you are doing and found a Mooney owner who just wanted to fly, so we did so. On the rental car side of things, at the time one could get a one way rental for surprisingly not a lot of money so you might just call around. John Breda

You have an E model which usually comes with an aluminum cowling. But, the damaged part looks to be fiberglass. Likely it is polyester resin fiberglass and the best fix would be to use Epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth. Sand the area well so it is clean and roughened up, with a sanded overlap area of at least 1/2" around the damaged area. Cut up the fiberglass cloth, mix it with the epoxy resin mixed with the hardener as per instructions, and use the slurry to fill the hole. Use a couple of pieces to fiberglass cloth and the mixed resin to patch over the top of the damaged are and onto the cowling by about 1/2 overlap on all sides. All areas where the fiberglass must adhere must be clean and sanded of all paint. Your damaged area is very close to the edge, and you will likely need to curl the new fiberglass around the edge. Wetted fiberglass does not want to bend 90 degrees or more. I have sometimes taken off the part, hung it up and allowed the wetted fiberglass to bend on its ow with the help of gravity. Be creative, it is not rocket science, you just need the fiberglass to stick to a clean, roughened surface without air bubbles beneath the new piece. If the damaged part is aluminum, use an aerospace body filler. All can be painted when dry. John Breda

You have an E model which usually comes with an aluminum cowling. But, the damaged part looks to be fiberglass. Likely it is polyester resin fiberglass and the best fix would be to use Epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth. Sand the are well, cut up the fiberglass cloth, mix it with the epoxy resin mixed with the hardener as per instructions, and use the slurry to fill the hole. Then, use a couple of pieces to fiberglass cloth and the mixed resin to patch over the top of the damaged are and onto the cowling by about 1/2 overlap on all sides. All areas where the fiberglass must adhere must be clean and sanded of all paint. If the damaged part is aluminum, use an aerospace body filler. All can be painted when dry. John Breda

I have the K&N filter on my F, however, given my turbonormalizer, it is the same K&N installed on the J (behind the L Cowling air inlet) The gasket seems spongy and not very durable. I worry about it coming apart and getting ingested into the engine. Is this your concern about the OEM K&N gasket? I thought of making a new gasket from the reddish silicone (about 1/8" think) gasket material I purchased from Aircraft Spruce (such as what the Real Valve Cover gaskets are made from). What does the audience think of that substitution? John Breda

The aluminum foil tape to be used is: 3M ALUMINUM FOIL TAPE 425, 3" wide. It is sold on Aircraft Spuce's web site. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/3malumifoiltape.php The aircraft insulation to use is made by Soundex, also sold by Aircraft Spruce. It comes in sheets in various thicknesses. Hold it in mechanically, as opposed to using adhesives, so it can be taken out for inspections and maintenance. The web site is: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/soundex7.php John Breda

Start with the material of your choice. You can get various material to use. Look for fire retardant and solid material so that is can be cut and shaped with a router. Then spray paint with an epoxy paint. John Breda

You may want to have co-pilot brakes in the long term. There is not much added weight. The work to install is not that much. I spoke with Bill Wheat when I added the hydraulic lines for mine. He said the best system is the one without the shuttle valve. I have drawings and installed them with DER approval. The right and left brakes are interconnected. The master brake cylinders I used were from a 1998 Ovation. They are the same on both sides. I got rid of the original parking brake and used the one from the Ovation which only pressurizes the lower part of the system closer to the main wheels. Depending upon how mechanical you are, it should not be much of a project if you were to measure, make up and bend the hydraulic lines. They will need to be flared and hand fitted. You should be able to work with an A&P on this. Bleeding the brakes can take some time. Brake pedals and parts have been available on e-bay. John Breda

I do not have a good picture but I replaced the original ASI with one I bought from Lone Star Aero in Austin, TX. They had the ASI face repainted. I seem to remember that it was done by Central Texas Avionics. It is in knots only and has a TAS movable ring. Cleans things up and gets rid of the unneeded MPH scales. I have a check list made into a booklet form, which has the information in the owners manual (NO POH in those days) converted to knots. John Breda

I am looking for a reasonable and cost effective method to test battery capacitance. Does anyone have a used unit for sale? My system is 14 volt and I understand that it needs a load of 35 amp per hour. Correct me if I am wrong. Are there alternatives to the $1500.00 plus units designed for the aviation market? John Breda

I sent my L mag out to be checked. They found that the terminal for the retard points was not torqued properly, was loose and likely not making good contact with the ring terminal attached under the screw head inside the case. Hopefully this solves the problem, however when we tested the input voltage to the shower of sparks with the starter turning to crank the engine (under load) the voltage dropped from 12 volts to seven volts. The magic number it reportedly needs to be above is 9 volts. So, I may be on a hunt to find a reason for the voltage drop. Also, there is 12 volts at the red terminal (volts in) at the shower of sparks before the key is turned to start. Does anyone know if this is normal with a Bendix ignition switch? It seems more logical that the voltage would not be on to the shower of sparks until the key is turned to start. I will check this again when I am at the hangar. John Breda

On my calendar as well. Please advise as to the particulars. John Breda

You might also want to look at the HID options. They are likely brighter that LED lights. I have the HID. They are expensive but work well. John Breda

Brad, Was looking through this old thread and saw your reply to my post. I am still in Boston, trying to be mostly retired. Have worked 120 hour weeks day and night for a long time. It is time to take a sane approach to life. Are you still coming to Boston? PM me or reply here. John Breda

There is no reason to sweat this one. I would look to a more permanent fix. I would think of installing a nut plate of the type that has 2 rivets, one each on the end of 90 degree legs. Use a floating nut plate so there is some room for error. Lay out the holes from the outside. Rivet with whatever small blind rivet you can use. It is only holding the last few inches os a fairing. Even a quality industrial pop rivet from Grainger can work. John Breda

Can you explain you answer more fully and provide specifications and/or part numbers. I have a pressure relief valve and it apparently fits the requirements of the STC. Please provide more information so I can understand the difference you are pointing out. Thanks.

There is no reason to quibble on a valve that pops off at 32.25" v. 31.5". The 31.5" is actually preferable. The intent on this valve is to save the engine should manifold pressure go above 30" The Operation manual does not advise any operations above 30" (if it even allows that). Replacing the Valve with one that pops off at 31.5" is well within the operating specifications of the system, and likely within the working tolerance of the valve. This kind of problem can be solved with a propulsion DER if needed. John Breda