M20F-1968

But this is a Bendix BL-600614-2 Magneto, with no impulse coupling and with a shower of sparks. John Breda

Who are to go to shops for magneto repair these days? John Breda

I'm posting this hoping to get some assistance in troubleshooting a starting problem. I have independent Bendix magneto's and the shower of sparks. I sent out my magneto's for 500 hour service to Aircraft Accessories of Oklahoma. This is a shop I have used for over ten years without any event. This time was different. The work performed was a 500 hour inspection/repair. I expected the Mags to be overhauled. That is of no consequence if they worked, but that is not the case. The part number of the Mags are BL-600614-2 and BL-600644-1. When the mage were installed after completion of the work, the plane would only start if the key was returned to the Both position, after cranking in the start position. My mechanic called Aircraft Accessories and a technician there walked him through the task of taking the left Mag apart and cleaning the points. Once put back together and reinstalled, the engine started correctly three times on different dates. Then, the problem returned. It now starts, or tries to start, twice as it did before, only after the key is allowed to return to the "Both" position after cranking in the "Start"position. The retard and primary points appear to be opening, the ignition switch was checked and found to be in order. I installed a new Shower of Sparks which did not correct the problem. My guess is that this is a Magneto problem seeing that if occurred after Aircraft Accessories worked on the Mags, and more specifically a point problem. My next step seems to be to remove the left Magneto and send it to another shop to be checked. Any other ideas? John Breda

I do not know why the factory made these Flap and Trim indicators with the solid wire cable simply drilled and press fit, or heated and melted into the plastic sliders. They always come out resulting in a pain in the Axx fix. When I did my rebuild, I used a J model indicator and made new sliders designed to hold the cables with machine screws. (All done with DER approval of course) Pictures are attached. The sliders are made with a nut plate inserted between 2 pieces of plexiglass. The plexiglass pieces are chemically "welded" together using a clear chemical designed for this purpose (which was a pain to find even in Boston - I had to go to an industrial chemical supply house). The end result are no loose cable ends and no slippage. John Breda

Take off the empennage, cowling, remove engine and engine mount and with the nose gear collapsed, put it on a long flat bed trailer with the wings the length of the flat bed and the tail cone in the air (because of the folded nose gear). You can trailer it a long way in this manner without dismantling the tail cone from the steel cage. John Breda

In some places yes, and it becomes a problem when there is moisture, as would be expected in the area of the door threshold. Stainless steel PK screws which are widely used can cause intergranular corrosion in the area of the screw when the screw and aluminum it is screwed into gets wet. These are real issues and dissimilar metals need to be avoided when possible.

In the winter in New England at 18,000 feet i might see -40C. What is the experience with the NYCO GN 3058. This the experience with the Aeroshell 6 the reason for the change to the NYCO? The way I read the service bulletin, all (except 3) Hartzell overhauled and new props after January 2020 should be using NYCO GN 3058. John Breda

I sent my prop out for its first overhaul since new. It went out with Aeroshell 6 in it and was tagged for Aeroshell 6. It came back with Aeroshell 5. The shop blamed COVID and decreased staffing for the change. Aeroshell 5 has a limitation for operations only > -40C. Hartzell also has a Service Letter HC-SL-61-366 which recommends NYCO GN3058 Grease in all Hartzell propellers (with 3 exceptions, not including mine) once the prop is overhauled and purged of old grease. See copy attached. Does anyone know why this change was made from Aeroshell 6? What are the advantages of the new grease? In any case, Hartzell has recommended Aeroshell 6 and this new grease, not Aeroshell 5. Any thoughts on the matter? The shop is willing to disassemble and purge the grease. Should I use Aeroshell 6 or NYCO GN3058 Grease? It seems that the correct answer is NYCO GN3058. John Breda

No, you would not want to do that. Dissimilar metals in a potentially wet environment will give rise to corrosion. John Breda

Post some pictures of your new bird so we can see what you have. Without pics it didn't happen. John Breda

Welder's supply, same O2 as anywhere else, but you your own bottles cleaned for O2. I have a 4 bottle cascade. The fittings, valves and gauges were bought at an online welder's supply. The Scott fitting for the side of the airplane was purchased from Mountain High. Well under 1/2 of what the equipment would cost at an aviation oxygen supply company. John Breda

That is the threshold. It is more than just a bent piece of metal since it is not only "L" shape in cross section, but also is has a radius on one end. It is a formed part which you would have a hard time making. The side of the "L" that is inside the airplane will need to be stretched as it is on the outside edge of the radius to be formed. (If it were in the inside of the bend, you could use shrinking/forming pliers but that is not the case). You best find one already made. John Breda

Probably not a good idea..... The tail tie-down is not designed for that purpose. You might get away with it, but the tail tie-down is designed to accommodate vertical loads, not the horizontal load of pulling the airplane. When you are venturing away from the world of that which is known and tested, you take your chances. John Breda

It sounds like part of your "road block" is your desire to make things better. I had a similar issue when I did my rebuild, but I also had a DER, a DAR, and two IA's to guide me as to what I could do and what I should not do. You can not install home-made parts unless you have a DER's approval who specializes in that system. Thus, you use the DER when a special certification is necessary. It needs to be a big enough issue to get the DER involved. You can do many modifications on an aircraft provided you follow the rules and have people with the appropriate credentials approve your plans before they are put into place, and have an IA approve the actual installation once it is performed to insure it was accomplished per the DER's pre-approval. There are many things that can go wrong with an unapproved installation performed by well intended individuals who simply do not know what they do not know. I am not applying that logic to your examples, but that is the lay of the land to ensure that modifications do not go awry. It sounds like you are concentrating on small battles that need not be battles at all. Just buy the approved parts, play the game, and save your emotion and energy for the major modifications that you know you want to accomplish. Again, you need to find your team of people who can lead you through the mine field unscathed. John Breda

When I started my project I spent several years with A&P's who knew nothing of how to manage a project of magnitude I set off out to accomplish. I bought the plan in 2003, had one A&P work on it who accomplished very little in six months and charged me more than he was worth. I pulled the aircraft away from him and hired another person who at first glance seem to be able to do good work, but in the end was both a scoundrel and a thief. I secured $38,000 judgment against him which I am trying still to collect (Texas is one of the two debtor states in America). He now owes me about 55,000 due to statutory interest. I had another A&P mechanic who supposedly was an avionics "expert" but never did get anything installed into the airplane despite having been paid for work not done. In 2007 I dismantled anything on the aircraft that they touched. I started over with new people and was determined to make an exceptional aircraft. I found an excellent sheetmetal person who was working in that capacity for Gulfstream and an AP/IA with a good deal of Mooney experience. We got the aircraft ferried to Central Texas and ultimately flew it to Boston. Like the saying goes, you have to kiss a lot of toads.... I now have a cadre of people I rely on to work on the airplane and reluctant to let anyone else get involved unless they come highly recommended with good with references. It simply takes time to get to that point. You also need to learn as much as you can about the aircraft you own which will make informed decisions about maintenance easier. I suggest you hang in there long enough until you get the support crew you need. The "thorn" is not the airplane itself, but rather the people you have engaged to help you that are apparently making the project more difficult and more expensive than it needs to be. See it for what it is and rise above it. There are plenty people on this site who can direct you to individuals who have the knowledge, and the desire to help. John Breda

I am a senior AME in the Boston area. The truth is that there are only a few conditions which will be a road block on the path the an FAA medical. The FAA wants to review many situations that are outside of the CACI protocols (which the AME can issue if conditions are met) but they do not want to deny medical certificates if at all possible. You have to give them the information that they request, but with most medical conditions the airman will likely be approved. Beware of AME's that hold themselves out as experts in getting pilots successfully through the Special Issuance process. Many use it as a way to capture more patients and more money. You just need an AME who practices good medicine, can advocate for you with the FAA, and is willing to follow-up with the FAA in an appropriate way if needed. No AME is going to tell the FAA what it should do in any case. Feel free to contact me with any questions or problems by sending a PM here. Alternatively, my e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com and my cell is (617) 877-0025. John Breda

And Dow Corning DC-4 to to use as a thin film of the oil filter gasket or you will have a hard time removing the oil filter. DC-4 is now apparently DUPONT MOLYKOTE® 4 (FORMERLY DOW CORNING DC-4) as shown in the Aircraft Spruce catalog https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/dc4.php?clickkey=4253507 John Breda

What is your road block? Sounds like it is an unavailable A&P. You really should get it finished, own it for a while, and then determine if you want to sell. depending upon your expenditures, you likely will not get your money back. You have a better chance of getting your money if the project is finished, flyable and very nice. But, you did this to keep (am I correct)? You will never get the value of your labor if you sell it off. I met many obstacles during my rebuilt. Think of them as just another bump in the road. John Breda

You need the MH inline regulator supplied with the O2D2. I use it in addition to the one in the aircraft as part of the built-in system. John Breda

Up to 18,000 ft., the canula supplied by MH. John Breda

I have the MH O2D2 and find it quite useful. My Oc sats stay about 94% to about 96% which is where I want them. The oxygen saved is dramatic. No one has mention that you can hear the puff of oxygen with each breath. It is soothing and relaxing, and give an immediate indication that the system is working. I also have the Aerox mechanical system which I have not used since the MH O2D2 works so well. I bought both on e-bay. They come up occasionally. I paid less than retail, but the retail price for the MH system is likely worth it. My oxygen system was taken from an Ovation and retrofitted into my F model. I downsized from the 115 cubic foot bottle to a 50 cubic foot bottle to save weight. With the MH O2D2 this size is sufficient. John Breda

Take out the turn co-ordinator (or as I did with an S-TEC autopilot, hide it behind the panel) and replace with an electric AI. I have the Garmin G600, a 3" vacuum AI (as I also have a vacuum step), and a Mid-Continent 2" AI. Two that run on electric power and one that is vacuum. John Breda

I got the 3 connectors removed and the G600 out without any difficulty. I did from underneath the panel looking and reaching up. I now see how the mechanism latches. My question now is: 1) Is it best to push the slider/lock in and then install the connector, or 2) Is it better to leave the slider/lock alone and let it snap into place when the connector is pushed on sufficiently? I seems that is is probably best initially to not press in on the slider/lock so that you can gently feel how the connector goes over the pins initially. Want to make sure it goes on straight with no un-necessary force. John Breda

The steel roll cage is basically the same in all the models. On the Ovations and newer, it is about 1" wider to accommodate more wiring. The rear seats, including the rear seat back is not structural. The steel cage is the same in the F model with split back seats as the bench seat model. I am not an engineer, but you can certainly confirm with the factory. John Breda

Does anyone have a picture of the connectors involved? John Breda