M20F-1968

I have a Bendix ignition switch from my 1968 F. It went unused for 26 years while my plane sat in a hangar in TX. It is in excellent shape. When I redid my panel, we simply put in a new one along with the new everything else. Give me a call or contact me here is you are interested. I can sell for a reasonable price. It will save me from posting on e-bay. John Breda Cell (617) 877-0025

Jonny, I thought I would chime in as well. I am glad to hear of the new hands-on leadership at Mooney and certainly wish you and your team the best. Mooney has always been a great airplane with a loyal following of owners who understand its design strengths. My airplane is the first plane I have owned. With the encouragement of Russell Stallings and my hands-on attitude, I bought a 1968 F model that had been stored in a Dallas hangar for 26 years, in pieces. I bought it as a project airplane and did some homework about the company beforehand. A crucial part of my decision to go forward with the project was that several airplane vendors and mechanics told me that Mooney has always supported its older aircraft with parts and service. When I was in the throws of the project, I could always count on reaching out to Bill Wheat for answers. I stripped the F model down to a bare hull, reskinned much of the airplane, updated its structure and proceeded to make the airframe to be as close to a modern Mooney as an F model could be. with multiple mods and 337's. It was an award winner at Oshkosh 2 years running with a Lindy Award in 2019. I know my airplane, literally inside and out and appreciate the value in the design. The project was completed with a DER, DAR, two IA's and several A&P's, one was a sheet metal specialist from Gulfstream. It only shows its F model heritage by its Johnson Bar and hydraulic flaps. The and upgraded Vintage Mooneys have an efficiency and simplicity that lends themselves well to become a satisfying forever plane. I have attached some pics of my bird. My perspective as an owner is somewhat different given my history of rebuilding the F. If I can be of any assistance to you or the factory feel free to contact me. John Breda

Once you start using oxygen for long trips, trips at night, and anything over 10,000 feet you will not fly without it. O2D2 is great, and essential. I have 50 cubic feet of O2 as built-in, and with myself alone, I flew 38 hours in 2 weeks last summer and did not even get close to 1/2 tank. It is also comforting hearing and feeling the breaths. If you use the O2D2, you will not need a 2 place regulator as you will use the Mountain High regulator (really pressure reducer) in-line to the O2D2. Then 2 people can come off the O2D2. You should have a gauge that is visible from the pilot's seat. The type of tank, valve etc... is likely less important. If you are using portable O2, go aluminum. As for the transfill tanks and equipiment, buy everything from an on-line welder's supply. The Mountain High website will give you some hints of what you might like to have. The welder's supply will sell you the same stuff for 1/2 the cost. John Breda

The instrument panel bow (the curved tube holding up in instrument panel) from a 1998 Ovation fit my 1968 F model perfectly. The Mooney Cabins are the same width. Mooney added a little more width to the L rear part of the outside tube structure for wires going to the tail. John Breda

Should be held on with hinges and machine screws with nuts. All the newer Mooneys (in last 20 years or so) use two metal hinges with2 screws each. You will want to find a hinge that will cover-up the potential mess made by prior glueing. One of the aftermarket aircraft window companies has clear plastic hinges that are larger and screwed on. They may be better in covering-up the work that came before you. John Breda

I am well aware of the process, in fact I was offered a position with the FAA in 2018 to become one of the certification physicians in Oklahoma City, but I was not able to relocate at that time. I enjoy cases that require some research and work. Feel free to reach out to me is necessary. John Breda

Any powder coating shop will have something close. You do want to powder coat the panel and you want to use a supplier where you know both the supplier and color so you can get more if you need it. You also will want to silkscreen the panel with any labels, required placard info, etc... John Breda

As a senior AME in the Boston area who works to support pilots through the Special Issuance process, I can state that he needs an AME (best to be local) who can interpret the FAA's requests and put assemble medical records that support his cause. The decision will be made by the FAA regarding Special Issuance. They likely will involve an outside specialist to weigh in. An AME can not change that decision, but an AME can guide the pilot through the process and be an advocate to the pilot by guiding him in assembling a medical file with the necessary documents and/or medical opinions that may give the FAA what they need to approve an application. The FAA has said many times that it is not their intention to deny airmen. They look for the information they need to allow issuance. Beware of AME's or consultants who charge high fees representing that an airman can not get through the process without them. John Breda

There is a huge difference between adding mods to an F model, as opposed to stripping and F model down to a bare shell, remove all wring, clean and paint the inside and tubular structure, and then use DER's, DAR's and IA's to modify the structural cage to the modern configuration, install a modern panel, and retrofit an Ovation interior, customize the airplane from the ground up, turbonormalize it, add speed brakes, long range tanks, onboard oxygen and more, essentially making a model that Mooney never produced. It is the uniqueness and verifiable restoration from the ground up that sets a project of this type apart from "a nice F with some 201 mods." John Breda

I too must disagree and support Carusoam's reply. My 1968 F has been formally appraised twice professionally at over 2X what Bob's E sold for. The upgraded Vintage Mooneys offer a combination of efficiency, speed, simplicity with no difference avionic capability when upgraded. John Breda

Jack Napoli located in East Hampton, NY (Long Island). He is a long time owner of a 231, got his pilots license before he got his diver's license, and is one of the Mooney Proficiency Instructors. East Hampton is also a nice place to visit for 2 or 3 days. John Breda

That is not true. The Rochester gauges can and should be used to replace the originals. Mine is a 1968 F model and these were purchased for my plane. The original style fuel gauges installed in 1968 are junk. The Rochester gauges are a distinct improvement. My serial number is way before S/N 22-1257. All the F models have the same fuel capacity, unless the long range tanks were installed, in which case the same Rochester fuel gauges are still used. John Breda

I can speak to this topic with the wisdom of experience. I purchased my 68 F model after it had been sitting in a hangar in Dallas, Texas 26 years in pieces. I hired Russell Stallings to drive up and do a pre-buy inspection. He took the airplane apart more than it already was a part. It had 1975 hours total time, no damage history, no corrosion issues, and had an intact engine that had been rebuilt to factory specifications 20 years earlier and never flown subsequently with a RaJay turbo. Russell Stallings reported that it was a "nice airplane" and would be a good basis for a project airplane. With his recommendation I purchased the airplane. Initially the Mooney factory service center wanted to do the restoration but then they subsequently suggested that I make it flyable from where it was rather than truck it to the factory. I tried to do this project from a distance as I live in the Boston area. I hired two mechanics who turned out to be thieves and scoundrels. I ultimately had to take the airplane away from them and take apart everything they touched. I rented a hanger in Dallas and started again, but this time I had the assistance of an excellent sheet metal mechanic (from Gulfstream) and a DER from Eurocopter along with two IA's and an A&P. Dallas Air Salvage called me about a salvaged 1998 Ovation with 400 hrs and I bought many parts from that plane. The project became the transformation of a 1968 F into a modern airplane. In many ways it is the best of both worlds, the efficiency of an F in a very modern configuration. The project took 12 years. It would have been much easier if I had known how complex a project I had started. It also would have been a whole lot easier if I had reliable people from the start. Unfortunately, not many have the skills required of such an endeavor. Once you get started, you will want to make mods and upgrades. Count on needing the time and money to do them. The Mooney platform is a great project airplane, provided the airframe has no issues, has great bones and is structurally sound. Then, take it all apart completely, know what you have and start with a clean airframe. That is the only way you will know what you have. Consider everything about the airframe to be suspect and in need of verification. Once you have it completely apart, you may want to consider what you need to do to do the gross weight increase available to those Mooneys that have a section of the cage strengthened. Mooney engineers would be needed for this and this may also not be feasible. I made many changes along the way. The structural cage was changed using my DER to look like the new airframes (See cabin picture below) eliminating the large inverted Y found in the vintage planes, and installation of an instrument panel bow to allow for an Ovation style panel installation. The airframe was re-skinned from the baggage compartment forward, new firewall, J model cowling, RaJay Turbo, Ovation Interior, modern ventilation from a NACA duct in the dorsal fin, on-board Oxygen, long range tanks, speed brakes, Ovation lights in wings, access to O2 bottle through baggage compartment...the list goes on. It was a Lindy Award winner at Oshkosh in 2019 and Outstanding Mooney in 2018. It can be done, but plan fist, go in with your eyes open, know who the people are that will be doing the work and be sure that you and everyone else involved is committed to seeing the project through to its end. This is a project that requires persistence, time, money and available parts and skills. It would be great if you have the skills to do much of the work, with you A&P's oversight and sign-off. You will learn a lot and develop skills you do not have now, which you will use as you own your forever airplane. Consider it the cost of education...

I have a very nicely built Grimes light (designed for aircraft and used on closet-like spaces on jets) that I purchased to use in my plane before I got my hands on an Ovation Interior. Since the Ovation interior already had interior lights, I did not use this. 14 or 28 volt should not be an issue. It can be had at a reasonable price. I'll check on details if you are interested. My cell is (617) 877-0025 John Breda

I do not know where you are located, but K&D Aircraft painting in Robbinsville-Trenton Airport NJ I am sure can do a great job for you and at a fair price. John Breda

ALCO TPC13CO SPST-N/O 125VAC 1A Momentary Mini Push Switch This may sound counterintuitive based on the description of what you want however you might consider this switch. Generally in a Mooney there is not much room to put the PTT switch. That is true for me with my Ovation yokes and multiple switches on the pilot side. I bought several switches and looked them over with my mechanic (very experienced). Some had tactile feedback, and this ALCO switch did not. This is the one he recommended and given his experience I went with it. He is very experience with Mooneys and his assessment was correct: 1. The switch is very small and overall size, however there is sufficient thread length to mounted just about anywhere 2. The button moves very easily so that all you need to really do is touch it and makes connection 3. It is responsive and given its ease of motion does not cause finger fatigue 4. It can be mounted on the yoke directly under your left index finger or anywhere else it is needed 5. He to told me he has been mounting Alco switches for years and they just continue to work without problems 6. 10 of them can be bought on eBay for $12.95 for the lot 10: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALCO-TPC13CO-SPST-N-O-125VAC-1A-Momentary-Mini-Push-Switch-New-QTY-10/163516664522?hash=item26125a4aca:g:mUQAAOSw5F9fGhkK 7. I have been using it now for over a year and am very happy with the result 8. The switch works so seamlessly, all you need to do is place your finger over the spot where the switch is, no fatigue, no switch indentation in your fingertip, and no pain

If you try to cut a slot with a Dremel, use a carbide wheel, and also use a piece of thin metal (hard, thin steel or other metals can work) about 0.040" thick or other appropriate thickness given screw head geometry. Drill a hole in the metal and place it over the head, so that if, and likely when the Dremel tool slips, it will ruin the protective metal and not the airplane skin. John Breda

I can make more of these if necessary. Need a regular lathe and a watchmaker's lathe to finish the back side. John Breda cell: 617-877-0025

I can make more of these if necessary. John Breda

How much did he trim back? Any pictures? Did he use insulation that has an adhesive the sticks to the skin. I used the Soundex stuff, which does not have any adhesive. It is just put in place in between the tubes or other compartmented areas. It has a aluminum foil-like layer that can help hold it in. I used aluminum tapes as well. John Breda

Good job getting it down on its wheels. As I was reading your story however, I was thinking that this is a problem that is begging a go around, just to have some time to sort out the issues, in an unrushed manner and make sure you do not become the victim of a distraction. Your solution and result would likely have been the same, but if there was no real emergency and you had the luxury of time, go around, tell ATC what you are doing, ask for a straight and level segment, put the autopilot on at a safe altitude and take your time. The nut could work its way loose and fall off the threads, which is likely what occurred. Some Blue locktite might be nice. When the nut backs off, the J-bar handle will be allowed to extend further. You may notice this change or you may not. Make it a point to periodically check the nut's position. My plane is on jacks now as I am practicing my leather sewing skills to make a new J-bar boot. You have just reminded me to check mine. John Breda

If I were to use spacers as suggested above, what material should they be made of? Seems like making aluminum or Nylon would work. What may be best? John Breda

This part can be made from fiberglass as a free-hand lay-up even if you do not have an original. To give you an example of what is possible, the pictured part is a free-hand lay-up part for my F for the wheelwell cover. You can start with modeling clay, wood, styrofoam, anything that gives you a starting shape. Then sand, cut and re-fiberglass as needed. Your final part (if you make an initial model and use it as a mold) should be made from flame retardant fiberglass resin. John Breda

You are much better off without the access panels, and using the factory cowl deck. However, you must then design direct access to the avionics by having the equipment and trays slide out of the panel into your lap. John Breda