M20F-1968

Never had an issue with either. John

When I did my rebuild, I sent the engine to Penn Yan. They chose and installed the starter. They would not have used the starter if it was inappropriate. I have an approved modification on the engine and have a J Cowling and a J style air filter. That is why I changed the starter. John Breda

You stated: "Of course I want to go to IFR very soon. Its good to have goals, right?" It is good to get your IFR certification right after getting your PPL. However, recognize that at that point you are still a newly minted Private pilot and an even newer IFR pilot, flying a high performance plane. This sounds like a potential recipe for an unexpected incident you might have been able to avoid if you had more experience. When I got my IFR license, I used it to punch through cloud layers at altitude, and continued to fly with an instructor to practice approaches. IFR skills are lost quickly, and need to be used to be safe and useful. The new avionics are a huge help, but should not be a crutch. It seems that no one ever practices partial panel flying any longer (whatever that means to you with your choice of back-up instruments). Just wanted to make sure you were aware of the pitfalls. It seems that you are doing well on the project, are taking the proper steps with the airplane. Just wanted to make sure you give proper consideration to the preparation and education of yourself as well. Fly safe. John Breda

Work with a DER who will write up an approval on a Form 337. The DER will need to research like components. The only part of your plane that is metal and original appears to be the fuselage. He will need to show that the E wing and K tail are appropriately mated to your fuselage and structurally equal or superior to your original wooden wing. Likewise he will need to do the same analysis with the tail. After that he will need to show show that the aircraft is structurally like a single model, such as an E, and will need to show that the K tail is the same as an E tail. Once you have confirmed that your plane is essentially a single model you can use the STC for that model for the basis of the 337 approval. If the E and K tails are not similar, then you need to show that the differences are trivial and likely use two STC's, one for the E and one for the K. I think you get the picture. Once you have the modification written up on a 337, you are good to do the modification. Once completed, have an IA inspect that the mod conforms to what the DER approved, write that up and file it with OK City. This process is the way I got through my rebuild. Without a willing DER, I may have never completed my airplane, or would have been frustrated as hell and alot poorer. John Breda

I have a Skytech LS 12 Volt Starter for a Lycoming IO360A1A. It is the original Skytech starter, and not the NL inline starter. It has less than 100 hours on it. I replaced it as my as the previously installed starter acted up. But, in late 2020 I decided to change to the inline starter as I have a J type baffling and the solenoid of the LS starter impinged upon the area where the air filter was installed. The LS starter looks and acts like new. I will take pictures if anyone is interested, otherwise I will post it on e-bay. New Aircraft Spruce price is $677.00. If you can use this model, I would sell it for $450.00 plus shipping. You can contact me at (617) 877-0025, here or e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com John Breda

I thought I'd post more details about my starting problem saga. I made the jump or lead as described in an earlier post by disconnecting the output from the shower of sparks and connecting in its place a lead that goes to the retard points on the left magneto and a further connection to the P lead terminal. An attempt to start the engine in this configuration, which takes the ignition switch out of the picture, showed a continuation of the same problem; namely a failure to start the engine in the start position. The engine started only when the key was released and allowed to return to the both position in when the engine started on the right magneto alone. This confirmed that there is a problem in the left magneto. For completeness, my next step is to confirm that there is in fact 12 V going to the starter vibrator while cranking the engine. I do not expect there to be any discrepancy here but will check anyway. If there is not a drop in voltage, the left magneto will be taken off and sent to be serviced. A year ago Aircraft Accessories of Oklahoma didn't want to hear that there may have been a problem with their repair of the Left magneto. The diagnostic work recently performed confirmed (assuming proper voltage to the starter vibrator) that the L magneto is not functioning as it should. This may have to be subject of a second thread. John Breda

Andy, Thanks for your reply. It seems that you may be able to help me think through this problem. You are saying something very similar to my excellent but out-of-state mechanic. He suggested that I make a jump or lead consisting of a 3/16 ring terminal with two 18 or 20 gauge wires coming from it, one short and one long. The other end of the long wire will terminate in a spade terminal and attached to the black connector on the shower of sparks. The short wire will terminate in a 3/16 ring terminal and connect to the primary post P lead on the magneto itself. This jumper is intended to bypass the ignition switch to determine if the problem lies in the ignition switch (or its related wiring) or with the magneto itself. Neither one of us has been able to reconcile why this problem happened after the left magneto was worked on. Further, the problem went away when the magneto was removed and the points cleaned. After three good starts, the problem returned. From that history it sounds like the problem is inherent to left magneto. Are the points in the magneto finicky enough that contamination or some other unrecognized abnormality of the points could cause this problem? Your further input is appreciated. Thanks, John Breda

Andy, for one of Thanks for your reply. It seems that you may be able to help me think through this problem. You are saying something very similar to my excellent but out-of-state mechanic. He suggested that I make a jump or lead consisting of a 3/16 ring terminal with two 18 or 20 gauge wires coming from it, one short and one long. The other end of the long wire will terminate in a spade terminal and attached to the black connector on the shower of sparks. The short wire will terminate in a 3/16 ring terminal and connect to the primary post P lead on the magneto itself. This jumper is intended to bypass the ignition switch to determine if the problem lies in the ignition switch (or its related wiring) or with the magneto itself. Neither one of us has been able to reconcile why this problem happened after the left magneto was worked on. Further, the problem went away when the magneto was removed and the points cleaned. After three good starts, the problem returned. From that history it sounds like the problem is inherent to left magneto. Are the points in the magneto finicky enough that contamination or some other unrecognized abnormality of the points could cause this problem? Your further input is appreciated. Thanks, John Breda

But this is a Bendix BL-600614-2 Magneto, with no impulse coupling and with a shower of sparks. John Breda

Who are to go to shops for magneto repair these days? John Breda

I'm posting this hoping to get some assistance in troubleshooting a starting problem. I have independent Bendix magneto's and the shower of sparks. I sent out my magneto's for 500 hour service to Aircraft Accessories of Oklahoma. This is a shop I have used for over ten years without any event. This time was different. The work performed was a 500 hour inspection/repair. I expected the Mags to be overhauled. That is of no consequence if they worked, but that is not the case. The part number of the Mags are BL-600614-2 and BL-600644-1. When the mage were installed after completion of the work, the plane would only start if the key was returned to the Both position, after cranking in the start position. My mechanic called Aircraft Accessories and a technician there walked him through the task of taking the left Mag apart and cleaning the points. Once put back together and reinstalled, the engine started correctly three times on different dates. Then, the problem returned. It now starts, or tries to start, twice as it did before, only after the key is allowed to return to the "Both" position after cranking in the "Start"position. The retard and primary points appear to be opening, the ignition switch was checked and found to be in order. I installed a new Shower of Sparks which did not correct the problem. My guess is that this is a Magneto problem seeing that if occurred after Aircraft Accessories worked on the Mags, and more specifically a point problem. My next step seems to be to remove the left Magneto and send it to another shop to be checked. Any other ideas? John Breda

I do not know why the factory made these Flap and Trim indicators with the solid wire cable simply drilled and press fit, or heated and melted into the plastic sliders. They always come out resulting in a pain in the Axx fix. When I did my rebuild, I used a J model indicator and made new sliders designed to hold the cables with machine screws. (All done with DER approval of course) Pictures are attached. The sliders are made with a nut plate inserted between 2 pieces of plexiglass. The plexiglass pieces are chemically "welded" together using a clear chemical designed for this purpose (which was a pain to find even in Boston - I had to go to an industrial chemical supply house). The end result are no loose cable ends and no slippage. John Breda

Take off the empennage, cowling, remove engine and engine mount and with the nose gear collapsed, put it on a long flat bed trailer with the wings the length of the flat bed and the tail cone in the air (because of the folded nose gear). You can trailer it a long way in this manner without dismantling the tail cone from the steel cage. John Breda

In some places yes, and it becomes a problem when there is moisture, as would be expected in the area of the door threshold. Stainless steel PK screws which are widely used can cause intergranular corrosion in the area of the screw when the screw and aluminum it is screwed into gets wet. These are real issues and dissimilar metals need to be avoided when possible.

In the winter in New England at 18,000 feet i might see -40C. What is the experience with the NYCO GN 3058. This the experience with the Aeroshell 6 the reason for the change to the NYCO? The way I read the service bulletin, all (except 3) Hartzell overhauled and new props after January 2020 should be using NYCO GN 3058. John Breda

I sent my prop out for its first overhaul since new. It went out with Aeroshell 6 in it and was tagged for Aeroshell 6. It came back with Aeroshell 5. The shop blamed COVID and decreased staffing for the change. Aeroshell 5 has a limitation for operations only > -40C. Hartzell also has a Service Letter HC-SL-61-366 which recommends NYCO GN3058 Grease in all Hartzell propellers (with 3 exceptions, not including mine) once the prop is overhauled and purged of old grease. See copy attached. Does anyone know why this change was made from Aeroshell 6? What are the advantages of the new grease? In any case, Hartzell has recommended Aeroshell 6 and this new grease, not Aeroshell 5. Any thoughts on the matter? The shop is willing to disassemble and purge the grease. Should I use Aeroshell 6 or NYCO GN3058 Grease? It seems that the correct answer is NYCO GN3058. John Breda

No, you would not want to do that. Dissimilar metals in a potentially wet environment will give rise to corrosion. John Breda

Post some pictures of your new bird so we can see what you have. Without pics it didn't happen. John Breda

Welder's supply, same O2 as anywhere else, but you your own bottles cleaned for O2. I have a 4 bottle cascade. The fittings, valves and gauges were bought at an online welder's supply. The Scott fitting for the side of the airplane was purchased from Mountain High. Well under 1/2 of what the equipment would cost at an aviation oxygen supply company. John Breda

That is the threshold. It is more than just a bent piece of metal since it is not only "L" shape in cross section, but also is has a radius on one end. It is a formed part which you would have a hard time making. The side of the "L" that is inside the airplane will need to be stretched as it is on the outside edge of the radius to be formed. (If it were in the inside of the bend, you could use shrinking/forming pliers but that is not the case). You best find one already made. John Breda

Probably not a good idea..... The tail tie-down is not designed for that purpose. You might get away with it, but the tail tie-down is designed to accommodate vertical loads, not the horizontal load of pulling the airplane. When you are venturing away from the world of that which is known and tested, you take your chances. John Breda

It sounds like part of your "road block" is your desire to make things better. I had a similar issue when I did my rebuild, but I also had a DER, a DAR, and two IA's to guide me as to what I could do and what I should not do. You can not install home-made parts unless you have a DER's approval who specializes in that system. Thus, you use the DER when a special certification is necessary. It needs to be a big enough issue to get the DER involved. You can do many modifications on an aircraft provided you follow the rules and have people with the appropriate credentials approve your plans before they are put into place, and have an IA approve the actual installation once it is performed to insure it was accomplished per the DER's pre-approval. There are many things that can go wrong with an unapproved installation performed by well intended individuals who simply do not know what they do not know. I am not applying that logic to your examples, but that is the lay of the land to ensure that modifications do not go awry. It sounds like you are concentrating on small battles that need not be battles at all. Just buy the approved parts, play the game, and save your emotion and energy for the major modifications that you know you want to accomplish. Again, you need to find your team of people who can lead you through the mine field unscathed. John Breda

When I started my project I spent several years with A&P's who knew nothing of how to manage a project of magnitude I set off out to accomplish. I bought the plan in 2003, had one A&P work on it who accomplished very little in six months and charged me more than he was worth. I pulled the aircraft away from him and hired another person who at first glance seem to be able to do good work, but in the end was both a scoundrel and a thief. I secured $38,000 judgment against him which I am trying still to collect (Texas is one of the two debtor states in America). He now owes me about 55,000 due to statutory interest. I had another A&P mechanic who supposedly was an avionics "expert" but never did get anything installed into the airplane despite having been paid for work not done. In 2007 I dismantled anything on the aircraft that they touched. I started over with new people and was determined to make an exceptional aircraft. I found an excellent sheetmetal person who was working in that capacity for Gulfstream and an AP/IA with a good deal of Mooney experience. We got the aircraft ferried to Central Texas and ultimately flew it to Boston. Like the saying goes, you have to kiss a lot of toads.... I now have a cadre of people I rely on to work on the airplane and reluctant to let anyone else get involved unless they come highly recommended with good with references. It simply takes time to get to that point. You also need to learn as much as you can about the aircraft you own which will make informed decisions about maintenance easier. I suggest you hang in there long enough until you get the support crew you need. The "thorn" is not the airplane itself, but rather the people you have engaged to help you that are apparently making the project more difficult and more expensive than it needs to be. See it for what it is and rise above it. There are plenty people on this site who can direct you to individuals who have the knowledge, and the desire to help. John Breda

I am a senior AME in the Boston area. The truth is that there are only a few conditions which will be a road block on the path the an FAA medical. The FAA wants to review many situations that are outside of the CACI protocols (which the AME can issue if conditions are met) but they do not want to deny medical certificates if at all possible. You have to give them the information that they request, but with most medical conditions the airman will likely be approved. Beware of AME's that hold themselves out as experts in getting pilots successfully through the Special Issuance process. Many use it as a way to capture more patients and more money. You just need an AME who practices good medicine, can advocate for you with the FAA, and is willing to follow-up with the FAA in an appropriate way if needed. No AME is going to tell the FAA what it should do in any case. Feel free to contact me with any questions or problems by sending a PM here. Alternatively, my e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com and my cell is (617) 877-0025. John Breda

And Dow Corning DC-4 to to use as a thin film of the oil filter gasket or you will have a hard time removing the oil filter. DC-4 is now apparently DUPONT MOLYKOTE® 4 (FORMERLY DOW CORNING DC-4) as shown in the Aircraft Spruce catalog https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/dc4.php?clickkey=4253507 John Breda