M20F-1968

Any powder coating shop will have something close. You do want to powder coat the panel and you want to use a supplier where you know both the supplier and color so you can get more if you need it. You also will want to silkscreen the panel with any labels, required placard info, etc... John Breda

As a senior AME in the Boston area who works to support pilots through the Special Issuance process, I can state that he needs an AME (best to be local) who can interpret the FAA's requests and put assemble medical records that support his cause. The decision will be made by the FAA regarding Special Issuance. They likely will involve an outside specialist to weigh in. An AME can not change that decision, but an AME can guide the pilot through the process and be an advocate to the pilot by guiding him in assembling a medical file with the necessary documents and/or medical opinions that may give the FAA what they need to approve an application. The FAA has said many times that it is not their intention to deny airmen. They look for the information they need to allow issuance. Beware of AME's or consultants who charge high fees representing that an airman can not get through the process without them. John Breda

There is a huge difference between adding mods to an F model, as opposed to stripping and F model down to a bare shell, remove all wring, clean and paint the inside and tubular structure, and then use DER's, DAR's and IA's to modify the structural cage to the modern configuration, install a modern panel, and retrofit an Ovation interior, customize the airplane from the ground up, turbonormalize it, add speed brakes, long range tanks, onboard oxygen and more, essentially making a model that Mooney never produced. It is the uniqueness and verifiable restoration from the ground up that sets a project of this type apart from "a nice F with some 201 mods." John Breda

I too must disagree and support Carusoam's reply. My 1968 F has been formally appraised twice professionally at over 2X what Bob's E sold for. The upgraded Vintage Mooneys offer a combination of efficiency, speed, simplicity with no difference avionic capability when upgraded. John Breda

Jack Napoli located in East Hampton, NY (Long Island). He is a long time owner of a 231, got his pilots license before he got his diver's license, and is one of the Mooney Proficiency Instructors. East Hampton is also a nice place to visit for 2 or 3 days. John Breda

That is not true. The Rochester gauges can and should be used to replace the originals. Mine is a 1968 F model and these were purchased for my plane. The original style fuel gauges installed in 1968 are junk. The Rochester gauges are a distinct improvement. My serial number is way before S/N 22-1257. All the F models have the same fuel capacity, unless the long range tanks were installed, in which case the same Rochester fuel gauges are still used. John Breda

I can speak to this topic with the wisdom of experience. I purchased my 68 F model after it had been sitting in a hangar in Dallas, Texas 26 years in pieces. I hired Russell Stallings to drive up and do a pre-buy inspection. He took the airplane apart more than it already was a part. It had 1975 hours total time, no damage history, no corrosion issues, and had an intact engine that had been rebuilt to factory specifications 20 years earlier and never flown subsequently with a RaJay turbo. Russell Stallings reported that it was a "nice airplane" and would be a good basis for a project airplane. With his recommendation I purchased the airplane. Initially the Mooney factory service center wanted to do the restoration but then they subsequently suggested that I make it flyable from where it was rather than truck it to the factory. I tried to do this project from a distance as I live in the Boston area. I hired two mechanics who turned out to be thieves and scoundrels. I ultimately had to take the airplane away from them and take apart everything they touched. I rented a hanger in Dallas and started again, but this time I had the assistance of an excellent sheet metal mechanic (from Gulfstream) and a DER from Eurocopter along with two IA's and an A&P. Dallas Air Salvage called me about a salvaged 1998 Ovation with 400 hrs and I bought many parts from that plane. The project became the transformation of a 1968 F into a modern airplane. In many ways it is the best of both worlds, the efficiency of an F in a very modern configuration. The project took 12 years. It would have been much easier if I had known how complex a project I had started. It also would have been a whole lot easier if I had reliable people from the start. Unfortunately, not many have the skills required of such an endeavor. Once you get started, you will want to make mods and upgrades. Count on needing the time and money to do them. The Mooney platform is a great project airplane, provided the airframe has no issues, has great bones and is structurally sound. Then, take it all apart completely, know what you have and start with a clean airframe. That is the only way you will know what you have. Consider everything about the airframe to be suspect and in need of verification. Once you have it completely apart, you may want to consider what you need to do to do the gross weight increase available to those Mooneys that have a section of the cage strengthened. Mooney engineers would be needed for this and this may also not be feasible. I made many changes along the way. The structural cage was changed using my DER to look like the new airframes (See cabin picture below) eliminating the large inverted Y found in the vintage planes, and installation of an instrument panel bow to allow for an Ovation style panel installation. The airframe was re-skinned from the baggage compartment forward, new firewall, J model cowling, RaJay Turbo, Ovation Interior, modern ventilation from a NACA duct in the dorsal fin, on-board Oxygen, long range tanks, speed brakes, Ovation lights in wings, access to O2 bottle through baggage compartment...the list goes on. It was a Lindy Award winner at Oshkosh in 2019 and Outstanding Mooney in 2018. It can be done, but plan fist, go in with your eyes open, know who the people are that will be doing the work and be sure that you and everyone else involved is committed to seeing the project through to its end. This is a project that requires persistence, time, money and available parts and skills. It would be great if you have the skills to do much of the work, with you A&P's oversight and sign-off. You will learn a lot and develop skills you do not have now, which you will use as you own your forever airplane. Consider it the cost of education...

I have a very nicely built Grimes light (designed for aircraft and used on closet-like spaces on jets) that I purchased to use in my plane before I got my hands on an Ovation Interior. Since the Ovation interior already had interior lights, I did not use this. 14 or 28 volt should not be an issue. It can be had at a reasonable price. I'll check on details if you are interested. My cell is (617) 877-0025 John Breda

I do not know where you are located, but K&D Aircraft painting in Robbinsville-Trenton Airport NJ I am sure can do a great job for you and at a fair price. John Breda

ALCO TPC13CO SPST-N/O 125VAC 1A Momentary Mini Push Switch This may sound counterintuitive based on the description of what you want however you might consider this switch. Generally in a Mooney there is not much room to put the PTT switch. That is true for me with my Ovation yokes and multiple switches on the pilot side. I bought several switches and looked them over with my mechanic (very experienced). Some had tactile feedback, and this ALCO switch did not. This is the one he recommended and given his experience I went with it. He is very experience with Mooneys and his assessment was correct: 1. The switch is very small and overall size, however there is sufficient thread length to mounted just about anywhere 2. The button moves very easily so that all you need to really do is touch it and makes connection 3. It is responsive and given its ease of motion does not cause finger fatigue 4. It can be mounted on the yoke directly under your left index finger or anywhere else it is needed 5. He to told me he has been mounting Alco switches for years and they just continue to work without problems 6. 10 of them can be bought on eBay for $12.95 for the lot 10: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALCO-TPC13CO-SPST-N-O-125VAC-1A-Momentary-Mini-Push-Switch-New-QTY-10/163516664522?hash=item26125a4aca:g:mUQAAOSw5F9fGhkK 7. I have been using it now for over a year and am very happy with the result 8. The switch works so seamlessly, all you need to do is place your finger over the spot where the switch is, no fatigue, no switch indentation in your fingertip, and no pain

If you try to cut a slot with a Dremel, use a carbide wheel, and also use a piece of thin metal (hard, thin steel or other metals can work) about 0.040" thick or other appropriate thickness given screw head geometry. Drill a hole in the metal and place it over the head, so that if, and likely when the Dremel tool slips, it will ruin the protective metal and not the airplane skin. John Breda

I can make more of these if necessary. Need a regular lathe and a watchmaker's lathe to finish the back side. John Breda cell: 617-877-0025

I can make more of these if necessary. John Breda

How much did he trim back? Any pictures? Did he use insulation that has an adhesive the sticks to the skin. I used the Soundex stuff, which does not have any adhesive. It is just put in place in between the tubes or other compartmented areas. It has a aluminum foil-like layer that can help hold it in. I used aluminum tapes as well. John Breda

Good job getting it down on its wheels. As I was reading your story however, I was thinking that this is a problem that is begging a go around, just to have some time to sort out the issues, in an unrushed manner and make sure you do not become the victim of a distraction. Your solution and result would likely have been the same, but if there was no real emergency and you had the luxury of time, go around, tell ATC what you are doing, ask for a straight and level segment, put the autopilot on at a safe altitude and take your time. The nut could work its way loose and fall off the threads, which is likely what occurred. Some Blue locktite might be nice. When the nut backs off, the J-bar handle will be allowed to extend further. You may notice this change or you may not. Make it a point to periodically check the nut's position. My plane is on jacks now as I am practicing my leather sewing skills to make a new J-bar boot. You have just reminded me to check mine. John Breda

If I were to use spacers as suggested above, what material should they be made of? Seems like making aluminum or Nylon would work. What may be best? John Breda

This part can be made from fiberglass as a free-hand lay-up even if you do not have an original. To give you an example of what is possible, the pictured part is a free-hand lay-up part for my F for the wheelwell cover. You can start with modeling clay, wood, styrofoam, anything that gives you a starting shape. Then sand, cut and re-fiberglass as needed. Your final part (if you make an initial model and use it as a mold) should be made from flame retardant fiberglass resin. John Breda

You are much better off without the access panels, and using the factory cowl deck. However, you must then design direct access to the avionics by having the equipment and trays slide out of the panel into your lap. John Breda

Phillips X/C 20/50 is designed for break-in and may be continued for the life of the engine. With the RaJay you have a non-turbo charged engine that thinks it is at sea level all the time. Add CamGuard when oil consumption stabilizes. Fly it like you stole it while breaking it in. John Breda

I have a F7666A-2, HC-C2YK-1BF Hartzell Propeller on my 68 F. It has a restriction of No Continuous Operations between 2100-2350. I have been repeatedly told that low power situations such as in the pattern are not a problem and are not "Continuous Operations" and you may operate in this "restricted" range for landing. This has seemed reasonable to me. You have to get down and you have to control the airplane when doing so. Is there anyone here who has information to the contrary? John Breda

McFarlane has this new-fangled throttle that sounds interesting. I like the friction-lock throttle for the last 5 feet of altitude in the flair. This one from McFarlane is interesting, if they could also install the gear warning switch on the cabin end of the cable. https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/articles/approved-va-throttle-new/ (Sorry - left out the link the first time) John Breda

McFarlane has this new-fangled throttle that sounds interesting. I like the friction-lock throttle for the last 5 feet of altitude in the flair. This one from McFarlane is interesting, if they could also install the gear warning switch on the cabin end of the cable. John Breda

When painting interior parts, use a two part epoxy paint designed for aircraft interiors. Much more durable. John Breda

I am doing some work on my engine baffling, which includes remaking the part the air filter mounts to (J model configuration). My baffling has extensions which reach down and around the cylinders, and twisted safety wire was used under the cylinders to hold these parts against the cylinders (to encourage air to travel past the fins rather than elsewhere). Mooney makes long spring-like parts to use to hold the baffle part against the cylinders. I would like to see what those parts look like. I want to be able to hook the rear baffle extensions from the front and then pull them forward and hook the front extension. The ideal part would be a spring with long reach arms. Apparently the Mooney parts are expensive. Are there any generic parts that could do the job? Any better way to think this through would be appreciated. John Breda