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Posted

Congradulations Joe! I owned a '78 201 for over 5 years and loved it. The '78 showed improvements over the previous year including an improved emergency gear down system, push-pull controls, prop, full ennunciator panel including low fuel "idiot" lights and more.


Be sure to check for security the brass side plug located on the bottom of the engine pilot's side at the side of the fuel servo. FAA originally had between and between dates of overhaul to check, but the problem has been more wide spread than that. The large brass hex head should be tie wired, but further checked for tightness as some of the ones we discovered had messed up threads and could pop to spite being tie wired. You can see a closeup picture on the mooneyland.com blog page if you'd like. http://www.mooneyland.com/mooneyblog.htm about half way down the page.


Also worthy of periodic checking is the mounting bolt for the single Dual Mag. There is a step shaped aluminum block between the bolt and the engine case and that block can wear some allowing the mounting bolt to loosen. This happened on my 201 and I know of others. The mag will fall off if that bolt loosens!


About the only control that is in the way is your cowl flap control. It sticks way out and is somewhat in the way of boarding the pilot seat. Here's what I did that worked out well: I had my mechanic remove the old cable control as well as the centering spring on the actuator scissors near the fire wall and then installed a black prop type vernier cable and got a field approval. I think it was 36" long but measure your old one to be sure. That accomplished two things: First the pull out or open position does not stick out as far as the push pull cable, plus you can infinately adjust your cowl flaps. What I find in warm weather is that I usually need to open the cowl flaps half way at cruise to keep temps from hitting redline, but half is more than you need and creates noise and drag not to mention strain on the cowl flap hinges. Opening the cowl flaps just slightly is all that is usually needed, in fact some guys adjust the cowl flaps not to close completely leaving them open just enough not to have to open to the half position in the summer, but there are times when I want them fully closed so the vernier contol give you the best of all worlds.


Be sure the 208 A&B SB's for the tubes were done and done correctly. There is more to the SB's than just checking the outer tubes and changing insulation. Included are running a magnet 18" inside the lower tubes one at a time by removing the main wing mount bolt accessible from the baggage compartment. If you pull out rust you have problems. Meanwhile your mechanic can shoot the inside of the tubes with Corrosion X or the like before they re-install the bolt. Also the windows should have been removed at some point and resealed with the proper PRC. Be sure there are no sealant gaps where the window bottoms meet the aluminum.


One other thing I did to help quiet down that loud IO-360 was installing 1/4" fire resistant, faa approved foam under the carpets and up to the firewall. Quite a decible difference resulted as that exhaust pipe is right under the co-pilot's seat area.


After market wing tips are a cool addition to save up for. I think Lasar still sells those.


Fly safe,


richard zephro @ Mooneyland

Posted

Speaking of...where would I get FAA approved foam and glue for the carpet and foam?


I looked at Spruce, but did not see anything that mentioned "FAA Approved" Anyone do this recently?


thanks

Posted

Aircraft Spruce sells foam but for high $$$. Otherwise you can check with any aircraft upholstery company to provide. I got mine though the guy who does my interior sewing or you can just wing it using fire retardant foam, (with field approval) basically the same as the foam used in the interior insulation but has to be 1/4" or less in thickness. I used 3M spray adhesive to tack it in place, then some more on top of the foam in spots to just hold the carpet in place.


zef

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