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Posted

I have a few camlocks that are missing from my belly pan.   I have been trying to read the parts diagram but have not had much success.  There are three parts listed for the belly panel:

27S3-5     @STUD

27S3-6     @STUD (FUS STA 90.25)

27S3-7     @STUD, L/E

Anyone know the correct part number so I know what to order?

Posted

These are Camloc 2700 series. The dash number is the length.

Aircraft Spruce sells them. Be sure to get the split washers that retain them and get a few extra because they are easy to launch into oblivion when installing.

  • Like 1
Posted

I would buy some of each. The belly panel can vary in thickness due to manufacturing variation and it’s trial and error if you want a perfect fit. Had to do that on my cowling.

  • Like 2
Posted

The length of yours is the number stamped into the head. I keep a box with all sizes on hand. They do eventually fail and it’s the best way to make sure you have the one that fits your plane in that spot. I have a few in a line where for no particular reason, one needs a different size. So the parts book is only half the story on those. 

  • Like 1
Posted

One word for you "Skybolt"

They have the replacements you need and have them with a larger flange which decreases the hole wear against the fiberglass.  

Replace all of them with the newer style.  They are  not that expensive.  The 2000 series should work well, but you want the ones with the larger flange.  Talk ti Skybolt to describe your needs.

Buy several sizes and enough to keep on the shelf for replacement.  They need to be fitted for length individually.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/21/2022 at 3:53 PM, hypertech said:

The length of yours is the number stamped into the head. I keep a box with all sizes on hand. They do eventually fail and it’s the best way to make sure you have the one that fits your plane in that spot. I have a few in a line where for no particular reason, one needs a different size. So the parts book is only half the story on those.

@r0ckst4r - This ^^^

Posted
On 12/18/2022 at 3:40 PM, PT20J said:

These are Camloc 2700 series. The dash number is the length.

Aircraft Spruce sells them. Be sure to get the split washers that retain them and get a few extra because they are easy to launch into oblivion when installing.

Ok is there a special tool or am i the special needs person as to how to install that split washer on the back side so the cam lock doesn’t come back out? What’s the trick to installing the little space launching devils?

Posted
39 minutes ago, Will.iam said:

Ok is there a special tool or am i the special needs person as to how to install that split washer on the back side so the cam lock doesn’t come back out? What’s the trick to installing the little space launching devils?

If you don't have the pliers, they make life much easier when dealing with camlock or similar fasteners.   They let you easily compress them to make it easier to wiggle the washers, etc., over them or install them.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/camloctools3.php

 

Posted
1 hour ago, EricJ said:

If you don't have the pliers, they make life much easier when dealing with camlock or similar fasteners.   They let you easily compress them to make it easier to wiggle the washers, etc., over them or install them.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/camloctools3.php

 

That doesn’t install the washer though.

There is a tool of course, but for just a few uses a socket with an extension to use as a handle works.

You don’t have to have a washer, the camloc is just removed if you don’t. washer holds it in the part when it’s removed.

Proper length is when the head of the camloc is flush with the grommet.

We had thousands of Camlocs on the thrush as all of the fuselage skins are removable, personally I like SS ones and despise those for flat tip screwdrivers, those I can guarantee the screwdriver will slip and scratch the panel. Only buy the ones for a phillips screwdriver and you’ll be happier.

Posted
2 hours ago, Will.iam said:

Ok is there a special tool or am i the special needs person as to how to install that split washer on the back side so the cam lock doesn’t come back out? What’s the trick to installing the little space launching devils?

If you hold them on opposite sides of the split, then twist them slightly to make a helix they will screw past the pin.  Once past the pin twist them flat again.  They are only mild steel so are easy to work.

Posted

This is the Camloc washer install tool, but unless you do a lot of them you don’t need it

https://www.autotoolworld.com/Brown-Aviation-Tools-TMS-T26-Snap-Ring-Tool-Camloc_p_129695.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAhqCdBhB0EiwAH8M_Gur4CiL4NSXvQOTiY8NUzGGGQAhuVB5sDyywl19TMdTodVR5v-cpFxoCfLEQAvD_BwE

Camloc retaining washers go on the grommet, not the part with the pin in it, that’s when the pliers come in handy as you need to fully compress the Camloc and wiggle it into the grommet.

You first install the grommet and lock washer, then you install the Camloc

Posted
11 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

If you hold them on opposite sides of the split, then twist them slightly to make a helix they will screw past the pin.  Once past the pin twist them flat again.  They are only mild steel so are easy to work.

^^This.  

Doing that you only need the camloc pliers for anything else you need to do, and if it's compressed with the tool it can be a little easier to get the washer on sometimes.

On an old cowl (like mine) where the holes are worn non-round and a little bigger than stock it can take creative stacking of various pieces and sizes of camlocs to get everything sorted out.

 

Posted
4 hours ago, Will.iam said:

Ok is there a special tool or am i the special needs person as to how to install that split washer on the back side so the cam lock doesn’t come back out? What’s the trick to installing the little space launching devils?

I found the larger 4002 series Camlocs impossible to install without the tool, but the tool is not necessary for the 2700s. Just insert them through the holes and then install the split washers as @M20Doc described.  

  • Like 1
Posted
55 minutes ago, PT20J said:

I found the larger 4002 series Camlocs impossible to install without the tool, but the tool is not necessary for the 2700s. Just insert them through the holes and then install the split washers as @M20Doc described.  

What did you use the 4002 series on?

Posted

Lots of aircraft use the larger ones, Maule for instance and Thrush

After posting it I got to thinking what I was describing was the larger ones as most of my experience is with them. You can put the snap ring on without the tool but it’s a pain.

Some Camlocs even use the star looking washer that the internal fingers are bent one way and will slide on, but not off. Takes a screwdriver to remove those but you normally destroy the washer, a small screwdriver is the way to remove the snap rings on the larger Camlocs, and you can reuse the ring too.

Posted

There’s a couple odd ball thickness on my cowl, I’d buy a few extra or do some measuring as others have stated 

 

now is the time to go stainless  !

Posted
23 hours ago, M20F-1968 said:

One word for you "Skybolt"

They have the replacements you need and have them with a larger flange which decreases the hole wear against the fiberglass.  

Replace all of them with the newer style.  They are  not that expensive.  The 2000 series should work well, but you want the ones with the larger flange.  Talk ti Skybolt to describe your needs.

Buy several sizes and enough to keep on the shelf for replacement.  They need to be fitted for length individually.

Skybolt is the bomb

4000 series are on long body cowlings.

If you are replacing 2700 series, consider the 2500 and use a 3/8 stainless washer under the flange to clear the bulge. It creates a larger holding area. I use the on my lower cowling on my R. The tensile strength is the same as the 2700 but the head spreads the strain over a larger area.

85A5CE27-C7F6-4FE5-8E72-2BE9208D30D5.jpeg.b49bcf2e4ea6694dc2854f94935a76ae.jpeg

 

Posted
27 minutes ago, GeeBee said:

If you are replacing 2700 series, consider the 2500 and use a 3/8 stainless washer under the flange to clear the bulge. It creates a larger holding area. I use the on my lower cowling on my R. The tensile strength is the same as the 2700 but the head spreads the strain over a larger area.

I'm all for spreading the load over a larger area.  That said, I'm having trouble understanding the "3/8 stainless washer under the flange to clear the bulge".  Can you elaborate?  Pictures are always welcome.

Posted

Yes, if you look at this picture, where it says, "Dimple skin" that will not fit in a 2700 hole. If you put a 3/8 SS washer under the flange, the flange is the same outer diameter size as the washer and the washer lifts the unit enough you don't have to enlarge the hole or counter sink it.

CDC2E61B-E8FE-42D4-9631-02C0D6417489.jpeg.e08e2625d7c6737a01f9c2fe457d2c4a.jpeg

Posted
13 minutes ago, GeeBee said:

Yes, if you look at this picture, where it says, "Dimple skin" that will not fit in a 2700 hole. If you put a 3/8 SS washer under the flange, the flange is the same outer diameter size as the washer and the washer lifts the unit enough you don't have to enlarge the hole or counter sink it.

Got it.  Thanks!

Posted
On 12/26/2022 at 9:44 AM, GeeBee said:

Skybolt is the bomb

4000 series are on long body cowlings.

If you are replacing 2700 series, consider the 2500 and use a 3/8 stainless washer under the flange to clear the bulge. It creates a larger holding area. I use the on my lower cowling on my R. The tensile strength is the same as the 2700 but the head spreads the strain over a larger area.

85A5CE27-C7F6-4FE5-8E72-2BE9208D30D5.jpeg.b49bcf2e4ea6694dc2854f94935a76ae.jpeg

 

Please describe further your statement, "use a 3/8 stainless washer under the flange to clear the bulge."  I have the 4000 on the cowl to cowl deck/side skin interface and the 2000 series wide flange between the upper and lower cowling.  I am not using any washers inder the Skybolt flange.

John Breda

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