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Posted

Only bleed thru was on the high boost pump switch. A little paint on the back side fixed that. I’m on the road currently but get the numbers for you this weekend   Yes I did use them and were super helpful with customer service for the designs on the covers. 12 volt or 24?

Posted

Mine is 24V. I got mine through rockerswitchpros.com but also talking to Jim at OTRTTW for the L series ones (also used in M20U). An example or pictures of how you did the paint workaround would be appreciated :-)

No rush - thank you.

Posted

Well they are almost the same company one is the supplier and one is the retailer. On the locking switch the locking mechanism tacked the place of one of the lights. So the single light highlights the label not the I/O indicator. So I painted the back of the indicator lens. The version I bought are the 12 volt version of the U switch with LED amber back light and green LED indicator with the exception of high boost and prime. 

Posted

Gotcha. I bought the 24V ones with cool white independent on top and dependent on bottom. They recommended against the warm white for heat issues. Need to test it on the panel when it’s ready. It’s not a problem at all during the day but need to dim it down for dark ops. Amber has a less light leak than the cool white. But with a good dimmer, hoping it’s not an issue. Al visual, but still, bothers me when we are spending so much money on the plane :-) 

Posted

Yeah my shop had me switch to MaxDim Duo as well, to get rid of the old school potentiometers and allowing better control of LEDs. 

Posted

My logic was I’m spending a huge amount on the panel that has to be completely rewired anyway. 500 for the duodim and switches (parts only) would only disappoint me in the long run.  Only gotchas before ya start is where you have room for the circuit breakers you must add and on my plane I needed a diode on the boost pump switch. Lots of repinning old connectors to make it work. 

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 9/3/2024 at 4:17 PM, Lois said:

Working great with no issues! Minor alterations with the new panel entries. 

@Lois Ted - Is the silver button (with blue LED) surround above your throttle your Go Around button? If so, that's about the cleanest looking (and most substantial) TOGA button I've seen for the GFC500.  Do you have a part number and supplier? 

Thanks

John 

Posted

Thanks, the blue is TOGA and red is Smart Glide. I had the titles laser engraved. They are Carling Tech switches. I’ll see if I can still find the part numbers 

Posted

Don’t have the number immediately but search Carling Tech AV push button switches. LED backlighting controlled by the duo dim on the same circuit as the other switches. 

Posted
18 minutes ago, Lois said:

Don’t have the number immediately but search Carling Tech AV push button switches. LED backlighting controlled by the duo dim on the same circuit as the other switches. 

Perfect! I’ll have a look and bring my avionics shop into the discussion to see what they think. 

Posted

All the switches are made to the same specs so my shop had no problem with them since I already had the rockers set up. 

Posted (edited)

If you decide to get them engraved, gun engravers have the tools and techniques to do the work in about 30 minutes. I gave the guy 40 bucks and a case of beer for two TOGA and two Smart Glide. 

Edited by Lois
Posted
20 hours ago, Lois said:

If you decide to get them engraved, gun engravers have the tools and techniques to do the work in about 30 minutes. I gave the guy 40 bucks and a case of beer for two TOGA and two Smart Glide. 

Easily found the push button switches (searching for Carling Tech AV led me right to it)! PM me if you remember the gunshop you used....I'm just across town at 5C1 so might start with them.  Thanks again.  

John

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